Goal Zero Yeti 400 Solar Generator Experience?

[pl626]

Too expensive for me.


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That's more than I want to spend as well, which is why I'm looking at building my own. I had two Duracell AGMs from a UPS with a fried PCB, so they weren't being used. I've repurposed them for a 200WH powerpack, but my costs on it are about the same as a Yeti 150, though I have more capacity.

 

[Overland 505]

I have the yeti 150. It's great for a little as needed 110 power pack. Or to change stuff. But I put a set of Anderson power pole connectors on it to hook up a second battery.


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[pl626]

Here's my homemade AGM based solar 200WH power pack in an ammo box

, not enough for a fridge, but definitely for work light and recharging stuff...


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[Glenn]

Too expensive for me.

Im with you on that.

 

[Glenn]

Here's my homemade AGM based solar 200WH power pack in an ammo box

, not enough for a fridge, but definitely for work light and recharging stuff...


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Homemade? That's awesome !

What would guys suggest as my best route option for powering a small fridge and/or cooler for say a couple days? I am hoping not to have to run my rubicon in camp to recharge. And please no $2500 options...lol...even though I would LOVE to have it all. Im still thinking Genisis Dual but this is nothing to do with the above fridge need.

 

[Teague]

Homemade? That's awesome !

What would guys suggest as my best route option for powering a small fridge and/or cooler for say a couple days? I am hoping not to have to run my rubicon in camp to recharge. And please no $2500 options...lol...even though I would LOVE to have it all. Im still thinking Genisis Dual but this is nothing to do with the above fridge need.

Are you wanting it to last off of one charge the whole time are are you considering solar to charge it while you use it?

 

[Glenn]

Solar I was hoping.

 

[pl626]

As someone previously mentioned, get a deep cycle AGM, (both Optima Yellow & Blue will work, but other brands are fine as well, and cheaper). Main thing is Deep Cycle, 80-100AH. Starting batteries are wrong for this application.
You can get a cheap marine battery box, then add a fused DC outlet + whatever else. Inverter would be optional as most fridges can run on DC.
To add solar, you'll need a solar charge controller and a panel, 100W should be fine. The controller may even fit inside the box, or you can keep it separate. All this should be less than the cost of a Yeti 400, though it might not be as convenient.
With the 100W solar, you may not even have to consider wiring the battery to your rigs alternator/battery, though if you do, you'll need to get a battery isolator, but I don't think that's what you want to do as you were asking about the Yeti.


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[Glenn]

As someone previously mentioned, get a deep cycle AGM, (both Optima Yellow & Blue will work, but other brands are fine as well, and cheaper). Main thing is Deep Cycle, 80-100AH. Starting batteries are wrong for this application.
You can get a cheap marine battery box, then add a fused DC outlet + whatever else. Inverter would be optional as most fridges can run on DC.
To add solar, you'll need a solar charge controller and a panel, 100W should be fine. The controller may even fit inside the box, or you can keep it separate. All this should be less than the cost of a Yeti 400, though it might not be as convenient.
With the 100W solar, you may not even have to consider wiring the battery to your rigs alternator/battery, though if you do, you'll need to get a battery isolator, but I don't think that's what you want to do as you were asking about the Yeti.


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So my ignorance of knowledge on this entire solar thing has reared its ugly head ! I read something in a review of one of these systems that made sense. These units have longevity issues to begin with under heavy use. I know even deep cycle batteries lose efficiency and eventually just suck from my trolling motor days on the boat. With one of these expensive setups I would have to replace the entire thing instead of just a battery. I don't mind spending money, but I ABHOR wasting money! LOL
I need to rethink this whole thing now and I like the way you simplified it. Its always kool to build your own, right? Research time... thx!

 

[Glenn]

Oh and I do not want to tie it into my Rubicon system so that simplifies the deal a lot if I keep it separate.

 

[pl626]

So my ignorance of knowledge on this entire solar thing has reared its ugly head ! I read something in a review of one of these systems that made sense. These units have longevity issues to begin with under heavy use. I know even deep cycle batteries lose efficiency and eventually just suck from my trolling motor days on the boat. With one of these expensive setups I would have to replace the entire thing instead of just a battery. I don't mind spending money, but I ABHOR wasting money! LOL
I need to rethink this whole thing now and I like the way you simplified it. Its always kool to build your own, right? Research time... thx!

A large part of that is due to the nature of SLA/AGM, the deeper you discharge, the shorter their life. Li-ions are different in that deep discharge does not shorten their life, plus you have more usable charge through each cycle.
That's why upfront costs of AGM may seem attractive, but TCO of lithium ion is at a point where it may actually be lower than AGMs. Either way, a solar powered battery pack is a good way to go, you just want to make sure you have the appropriate charge controllers to optimize the life of your battery. Unfortunately, that's another area where startup costs for Li-ion are higher, but TCO will be lower.
If you don't abuse the power packs, you should only have to replace the battery. I fried a charge controller by crossing polarity, but it turned out to only have damaged a trace on the PCB, which was easily soldered. It's fine now.

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[Teague]

With one of these expensive setups I would have to replace the entire thing instead of just a battery.

I don't have one, but I'm pretty sure you can swap out the battery in all of the yetis.

 

[pl626]

I don't have one, but I'm pretty sure you can swap out the battery in all of the yetis.

Absolutely, but only w/ SLA/AGMs, as they don't have the ICs for any other battery chemistry, e.g., Li-ion.
ISTR that Arkpaks can do both.

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[Overland 505]

So my ignorance of knowledge on this entire solar thing has reared its ugly head ! I read something in a review of one of these systems that made sense. These units have longevity issues to begin with under heavy use. I know even deep cycle batteries lose efficiency and eventually just suck from my trolling motor days on the boat. With one of these expensive setups I would have to replace the entire thing instead of just a battery. I don't mind spending money, but I ABHOR wasting money! LOL
I need to rethink this whole thing now and I like the way you simplified it. Its always kool to build your own, right? Research time... thx!

But you can replace the battery in it pretty easily. It screws apart. Just a standard agm battery in it.


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[Glenn]

It makes sense that you should be able too but the impression I got from the article was different. Ive been looking around at parts and pieces to put together a system and that yeti 400 no longer seems as expensive as I originally thought it to be.

 

[benchoochoo]

I wouldn't get a goal zero yeti. I own the switch 10 nomad 7 the rechargable battery. And I would not buy the yeti. Go with building your own. Or go with renogy. Renogy had great customer service. And great price. Goal zero is too expensive for what you get. Just my opinion

 

[Overland 505]

You can't really compare the yeti to the switch 10. That's just a little phone charging battery with a 7 watt on a good day panel.
Four Allen screws and there is the battery in the Yeti 150. Pay no attention to the yellow tape. That was my doing for being able to run a second battery into it and basically doubling the size of it. I forgot to put the heat shrink on before I soldered it.

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[Overland 505]

But for something bigger I'd build my own. You don't have to get the biggest best of everything. There's lots of how to videos on YouTube. The most expensive thing is the battery. That you want to be good.


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[Overland 505]

The yeti 400 only has a 35ah battery. You can build your own setup and use any size battery you want.


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[Steve]

The Anker Powerhouse 400 has a 120Ah lithium-ion battery vs. the Goal Zero Yeti's 35 Ah for a similar price. And Anker's solar panels are quite a bit less expensive.

Here's a review I found recently: http://expeditionportal.com/ankers-new-powerhouse-brings-serious-competition-for-goalzero/