Fridge install

Nice! Do you find it's a bit tough to find things in it with it that high, or have you even used it yet?

-TJ
 
Well I'm 6'4", so not so much for me. My gf is 5'11" and it takes a little more effort for her. For me, it's totally worth it, to have the extra space for the drawers underneath.
 
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Can't tell from the pic, but what wires are you using to connect the fridge? Is it the stock cigarette lighter cable, or something different? I've had issues with those cigarette cables, with Dometic's in particular, and performance improved significantly when upgrading to a more hardwired setup.
 
nakman said:
Can't tell from the pic, but what wires are you using to connect the fridge? Is it the stock cigarette lighter cable, or something different? I've had issues with those cigarette cables, with Dometic's in particular, and performance improved significantly when upgrading to a more hardwired setup.
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Bare in mind that I've only tested this set up last weekend for 2 1/2 days, so not a lot of test data for you.

I'm using the stock power cord that came with the Goal Zero unit, to plug into the outlet in the back of the 4Runner. It only charges when the vehicle is running.

I'm using the cigarette lighter cord that came with the Dometic to plug into the Goal Zero unit. It runs the fridge when the truck is not turned on. Goal Zero ran the fridge set at 32, for 2 1/2 days, without any solar charging or running the 4Runner. Outside Temp during the day was 82.

So for my needs, I think it will work great for 3-4 day trips. Between the charge it'll receive while driving or the charge from putting out the Boulder 50 panel while camping, should keep it going strong. As I'm sure you already know, pre-cooling your food and drinks makes a huge difference. Big power draw while trying to cool warm beer!
 
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I suspect the juice coming out of that Goal Zero unit is better than what you'd get from the cig lighter in the cargo area.. which is definitely working to your benefit. I had issues with the cig lighter cord going into a cargo area socket, the fridge wouldn't turn on when the truck was sitting there (was constant 12v) would only turn on when the truck was running... your fridge has the battery voltage setting of L, M, and H so you can decide how far down to run your battery, well even on Low the start-up spike was too much without the truck running and the fridge wouldn't kick on. The loss is at the connection in the plug, most likely on the - side. So clipping the plug off and wiring directly to a fuse block solved that.. not something you necessarily need but I bet if you wired this similarly you'd see longer live from your goal zero unit.... but I suspect this info will help the next guy who's mad his new fridge won't kick on.
 
nakman said:
I suspect the juice coming out of that Goal Zero unit is better than what you'd get from the cig lighter in the cargo area.. which is definitely working to your benefit. I had issues with the cig lighter cord going into a cargo area socket, the fridge wouldn't turn on when the truck was sitting there (was constant 12v) would only turn on when the truck was running... your fridge has the battery voltage setting of L, M, and H so you can decide how far down to run your battery, well even on Low the start-up spike was too much without the truck running and the fridge wouldn't kick on. The loss is at the connection in the plug, most likely on the - side. So clipping the plug off and wiring directly to a fuse block solved that.. not something you necessarily need but I bet if you wired this similarly you'd see longer live from your goal zero unit.... but I suspect this info will help the next guy who's mad his new fridge won't kick on.
Click to expand...

Good info, but so far, I don't think I need to go that route.
 
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