First North, then South – 1-Year+ Overland Trip to Alaska (from NY) and then to Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego)

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2RiversRanchExpeditions

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Thanks!! I'm in Seattle heading to Olympic NP might turn inland towards Bend, OR on my way south and will reach out!



Thanks Corrie! More incoming soon!!
Perfect! We are just a few short hours from Bend. And if we aren't at the ranch if/when you come our way I can give you coordinates to some really great dispersed camp spots. My fiance and I would love to meet you both though. We just finished setting up a big firepit in the orchard overlooking the fields and the plateaus, perfect spot to grill, chill, and camp. I work Mon-Thurs so if you're here on a Friday, Sat, or Sun we can go hit some trails and see some cool stuff! Old homesteads and one of the tallest wooden structure fire lookouts in North America!
Safe travels,
-Joe & Colleen
 
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Forjas

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First of all, Happy Thanksgiving to all! Hope you are all well at home enjoying some precious time with the family. Here is another update for some reading while you are digesting that gorgeous turkey ;).


Post 4: Mammoth Cave and Badlands National Parks

After being "stuck" in Bristol, TN for 4 days, we wanted to make time and decided to have a few long boring highway driving days passing through tons and tons of corn fields in Nebraska. Basically, my wife said: “Ok, enough with off-the-beaten-path driving, let’s get to a national park!”, so we hit the highway to fast-track to Badlands, NP.

Looking at the map, I did notice there was a NP midway between where we were and Badlands, thus Mammoth Cave NP came into the picture.

Kansas City and Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park
Before that, I found this gem of a state park in Missouri called Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park. Came by it by chance when looking for some camping spots. Just wanted to make a mention if anyone is around the area and wants a place to take a dip, this is it. Very picturesque and you can basically have your own jacuzzi (ie. Shut-Ins) with waterfall cold water instead of hot steaming =P.

Shut-Ins 1.JPGShut-Ins 2.JPG
(Private jacuzzi between the rocks)

Shut-Ins 3.jpeg
(Look at that!)

We were also able to make a quick-stop at Kansas City to hit a few jazz clubs. A former colleague urged me to make a stop there to enjoy the nightlife and he swore by it, so I could not ignore it ^^… We spent a night there doing some bar-hopping and ended up in 3 different jazz clubs that had just amazing music! Kansas City is definitely a place we want to come back to enjoy some more of it, it was just an introduction to some southern food (gumbo!) and jazz music, such a great scene down there.

KC 1.jpg
(Gumbo!)

KC 2.jpg
(The jazz scene in Kansas City, gotta come back)

Mammoth Cave National Park
From there, it was a straight shot to Mammoth Cave. Getting there we stopped by the visitor center to book a cave tour (if you want to go deeper into the cave, you have to go in a ranger guided tour) and our eyes were caught by the “Violet City Tour”, where you go into the cave carrying old-style lanterns! It was a perfect choice of tour; that’s because even though Mammoth Cave is huge (one of the biggest in the world) it does not have amazing cave formations within, so doing a tour with old-style lanterns – with which you can’t see shit – was pretty cool and we weren’t losing much by not having enough light.

Mammoth Cave 1.jpeg
(Scene from a terror movie, lol)

Mammoth Cave 2.jpeg
(Even with all lanterns aligned, you still can't see sh... !)

Mammoth Cave 3.jpeg
(Just like the 7 dwarfs)

At the campground in Mammoth Cave NP we also came across a fully-fitted 4Runner in patriot blue color - saying patriot blue because he had the MaxTrax on that color and it perfectly matched the truck (I damn myself until today because I have no picture to prove it!). Nice couple travelling across from North Carolina, unfortunately they were not yet OverlandBound members but they did mention they were overdue in signing up for a membership.

I like to mention this couple on the 4Runner because that truck inspired the National Park sticker scheme I have on Howdy now (recent picture below).

Next stop, Badlands NP!

Stickers 1.JPG
(Look at the sticker scheme on my rooftop tent - sweet isn't it?)
(If you want those stickers, I got them at Anderson Design Group (click here to go directly to the page no affiliation or sponsorship)).


Badlands National Park
The arrival in Badlands NP is a shock to any first-timers. You just can’t believe what you are looking at is something of planet Earth, you think you took a wrong turn and ended up in Mars! I can’t describe it, easier to see it for yourself:

Badlands 1.JPG
(Badlands!)

Badlands 2.JPGBadlands 3.JPG
(Notice the "sun effect" on the rocks/hills between pics 2 and 3 above - same spot)

Badlands 4.JPG
(Vast desert)


That landscape is just astounding!!!

We decided to camp at a primitive campsite (free!) on the western side of the park (Sage Creek Campground) which besides been a little crowded it was very enjoyable. The campsites were spread around this huge circle, inside the circle it was a prairie dog town, so you just camped there watching prairie dogs going around on their errands all day – they didn’t bother us or other campers at all during our stay. We even saw a huge bird (will not risk it to what was it) trying to catch a few for dinner, no luck there.

Badlands 5.JPGBadlands 6.JPG
(Prairie Dogs - btw, the ladies love it, lol)

In the morning, we went to climb a nice hill to have a good view of the camping – Badlands, NP has a policy of no-frills backcountry travel, basically they encourage you to go off-trail – and Mari ended up doing some Yoga up there while I watched the prairies.

Badlands 7.JPG
(View of the campground from the top of a nearby hill)

Badlands 8.JPG
(Yoga time!)

During the remaining days we did a few trails, climbed some rocks and had a fun time at the park. But the most fun was yet to come… while talking to a Ranger about backcountry camping, he mentioned that you could camp anywhere away from the main road, so I pointed out to him a dirt road that went deeper into the park and asked if was ‘ok’ for me to camp along it since it was away from the main road… for my surprise I got a thumbs up.

The place we went is called Sheep Mountain Table, the first few miles are just a graded dirt road but the sights are beautiful as you start driving inside the desert – some pics!

Badlands 9.JPGBadlands 10.JPGBadlands 11.JPG
(Just imagine you driving through the desert heading towards those red cliffs... huf!)

After the easy part there was one of those classics’ signs “4WD Only – High Clearance Recommended” and, at the same time I spotted the sign, I also spotted a Nissan Sentra trying to reverse from the middle of those huge ruts… trouble ahead! I climbed out of the rig and walked over to meet a young Asian lady (I'm not stereotyping!!!) with a shaking face that she drove the car right into the ruts (it did seem like a rental, but not sure). Luckily, she realized her mistake early on and the car was not stuck yet, but there were some weird angles to be worked on, especially reversing (too tight of a track to turn around). Gave her a quick 5 minutes class on the signs we use as spotters and off we go to lead her out; it took 20-30 minutes to drive her out about ½-¾ of a mile without scratching too much of the underbody but we made it without getting stuck.

Goodbye Nissan Sentra; Hello ruts! The track was fun without been too technical and there were some great views as we were climbing the hills. We found a nice spot and setup camp.

Badlands 12.JPG
(A view of the truck on the track)

Badlands 13.JPG
(After some offroading, nothing like a shade and some coconut water!)

Badlands 14.JPG
(Appreciating the view)

Badlands 15.JPG
(Dinner time!)

For those who don’t know, because Badlands NP is such a big desert, it’s one of the prime spots for stargazing in the US and we were camping alone so… stargazing time!

Badlands 16.JPGBadlands 17.JPG
(No need for a description)

And here I leave you guys until the next post! .
Some more pictures of the "Badlands getaway" (like the ones above weren't enough =P)!

Badlands 18.JPG
Badlands 20.JPG
Badlands 21.JPG
Badlands 22.JPG
 

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rodrigosd88

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Hey.... I'm in SF Bay Area if you are still around let me know. btw I'm also originally from Brazil :) Love to get together for a coffe :)
 
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Forjas

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Hey.... I'm in SF Bay Area if you are still around let me know. btw I'm also originally from Brazil :) Love to get together for a coffe :)
Awesome! Will be in SF area around the 5th of December meeting with some friends. Should be in the area for some time so we will have plenty of opportunities for cerveja, churrasco e café (translation for non-portuguese speakers ;): beer, bbq and coffee).
 

Forjas

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Post 5: Black Hills National Forest (Needles Highway) and Mt. Rushmore (Bonus: Devils Tower & Wind Cave NP)

Needles Hwy and Iron Mountain Road:

From Badlands NP it was just a bunny hop over to the Black Hills National Forest area - a paradise for motorcyclists with the Needles Hwy and the Iron Mountain Road. The area is mostly famous because of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally which annually attracts thousands of riders, but I was way more interested in what type of riding the area offered than the festival.

Driving in it with a huge 7-seater SUV/Truck was definitely fun, but at the end I just had to go into a EagleRider and rent a motorcycle! Ended up riding a Tiger 800XC and had a blast, I did however unfortunately dropped the bike when stopping at a parking lot, lol… the larger and taller 800cc played a trick on my mind as I transported myself back to my small and nimble 650cc times. S*** happens.

Tiger XC.jpg
(Tiger 800XC, those 3-cylinders...)

If you are ever in the area those 2 roads are a must in any type of transportation (cyclist will have quite a challenge and that will be part of the fun). The views from the top of the highway are gorgeous and driving through the tiny tunnels carved on the rock is quite an experience, even with its 8ft Howdy made it through with no issues, even though some passerby's looked scared =).

Needles Hwy 1.jpg
Needles Hwy 2.jpg
Needles Hwy 3.jpg
(Tight tunnels! ^^)

Mt. Rushmore
Mt. Rushmore was, as others had warned me, small… the pictures do a lot more justice to this National Monument than the live view. It's quite a piece of work to produce those sculptures on the face of the rock and it's worth a visit to imagine the amount of work and thought put into it. However, be ready because the face of the rock is far and therefore tiny. There are two trails that go up and closer but this time I took the advice from other people and just didn't went for it.

Mt. Rushmore 1.JPG
(Photo with a zoom - one of the types that do a lot more justice to the Monument)

Mt. Rushmore 2.jpg
(Without zoom - faaaar in the distance)

Devil's Tower
Also, I forgot to include a few pictures of the Devil's Tower on the last post! We drove pretty close to the Monument, but didn't want to spend the $ to go inside the park to get "closer" to it. On a trip like this you can't see all and have to make a couple of tough calls =P.

Devils Tower 1.JPG
(Howdy looking at the Devil's!)

Devils Tower 3.jpg
(Me looking at the Devil's! Lol)

Devils Tower 2.JPG
(Neat history of the formation. In summary, no one knows its origin - time for that The X Files music...)

Wind Cave NP
Wanted to make a note of the Wind Cave NP, which doesn't get too much attention (as far as I know). Disregarding the Needles Hwy and Iron Mountain Rd (which I dreamed of driving/riding) this was the best part of the Black Hills area. The park does not get many visitors (so it was empty), had beautifully open meadows with plenty of buffalo and prairie dogs, and the cave formations are amazing!!

The cave has this unique formations called Boxwork, Popcorn and Frostwork which I haven't seen anywhere else (and I like caves!). You can spend half-day and have a blast in that park. The only way to get inside the cave is on a Ranger-Guided tour - we did the Fairgrounds tour which was 1.5hrs for $12 and it was amazing!

Unfortunately, for some reason it seems like I lost the pictures I took inside the cave ='(, but I will upload them as soon as they show their face =P.

Wind Cave NP 1.jpg
(One of the many meadows in Wind Cave NP)

Wind Cave NP 2.jpg
(Buffalo jam!!)
 

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Forjas

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Hey Guys -
New post is up, but sorry for not keeping this thread as updated as I wished for when I started!

We have been busy this last couple of months as we put together a website (De carro pelas Américas | Pelo Retrovisor) and this gave us a lot more work than we initially thought; we also were invited to contribute with a few articles to a Brazilian Overlanding Portal (http://overlanderbrasil.com/ - if you are interested).

Unfortunately, we were not able to meet with @2RiversRanchExpeditions as we were passing through his area right at Thanksgiving week/weekend and @rodrigosd88 was in San Diego when we were in San Francisco... just bad timing.

But always on the lookout for some OB Members out there, been randomly meeting a bunch of us especially as we were travelling through CA!


Cheers!!