Family adventure trailer

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tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

I’m making a trailer for days and weekends out. I am basing it on the Taxa woolly bear design (patent infringement?!) but mine is wider,the boxes are taller and it’s going to be rediculously heavy. I’m in the UK so using parts and materials available here and it will be built to comply with UK road laws.

Based on this
IMG_0099.jpeg

cheers
 

tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

Thanks man!
im using a pre-made axle by knott avonride,I’ve gone for a track width to match my tow vehicles pretty close ( hilux and t6) I specked Land Rover stud pattern with 16mm studs -it’s rated to 1800kg
image.jpg
 

reaver

Rank VI
Member

Explorer I

3,680
Caldwell, ID, USA
First Name
Brian
Last Name
McGahuey
Member #

23711

Ham/GMRS Callsign
GMRS WRMV941
Are you planning on triangulating the tounge? It looks like there's going to be some weight to your build, so having that extra rigidity should help mitigate the rotational forces. You certainly don't want the draw bar to have a twist in it.
 

tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

Yes to some extent- I’m putting a box on the drawbar for my electrics , so under that there will be 2 diagonals- they will only be 12” out from the front chassis rail
The drawbar is 5 mm wall 3” box should be fairly robust
 

WYWander

Rank III
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Off-Road Ranger I

676
Wyoming
First Name
Ken
Last Name
Veltkamp
Member #

47213

Ham/GMRS Callsign
WSDA676
I’ve been looking for an axle design like that! Was looking to make my own trailing A-arm suspension. I currently have half torsion axles under my small camper. They are fine but limited in being able to adjust the ride height. Are those adjustable? Even by replacing the spring?

tnttt.com might be useful for you. The Teardrops ‘N Tiny Travel Trailers forum. Lots of ideas.

Best of luck!
 

tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

No they are not ride height adjustable unfortunately ,I think you could use a taller spring and damper,but the makers dont offer one as far as I know. Another issue with off-road use is that the bottom of the damper mount is quite close to the ground- I’m only using 13“ wheels though-for serious off roadin some bigger wheels would be better I expect and some skids made up to cover the damper mounts.Thanks for the link I will check that out- love looking at other people’s builds!
 

tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

I’ve started building the boxes out of 50mm x 3mm angle iron and I’m in a quandary about skinning them- sheet steel is what I was thinking,but in order to get the stiffness for the doors the steel will have to be fairly thick and the walls really,hence more weight. I could make the boxes entirely out of wood or a combination of steel and wood. dunno -any ideas on sheet steel thicknesses or anything else??
cheers
 

WYWander

Rank III
Member

Off-Road Ranger I

676
Wyoming
First Name
Ken
Last Name
Veltkamp
Member #

47213

Ham/GMRS Callsign
WSDA676
Interesting. It’s making me question the departure angle of my camper build. I think it will be ok but it’s a lot lower than yours.
 

tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

The departure angle is high on this design-it always looks like the axle is a little too far back though? I’m not sure how it will feel when it’s loaded. I have half a plan to put a removable mounting on the back to take my sons crf125-that will surely add some weight to the back- do you have a build thread for your trailer?
 
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tyndall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

I want to see what the roof rack looks like,so I’m taking a break from the wingfenderrunningboards and making some roof rack supports
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