Dual battery setup. What auxiliary battery are you running?
- Thread starter XFZJ80X
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Enthusiast III
I have two trucks with dual battery setups. In one, I have two identical Odyssey AGM type 34 850CCA. In the second I'm running a Sears Platinum AGM and a Optima yellow top. It's been 3.5 years for the yellowtop and no issues. I'm pleasantly surprised because I heard mixed reviews on Optima's and some concerns about running two different batteries.
I have an '86 Samurai with an Optima Red Top for the cranking battery responsible for all functions essential to the operation of the vehicle. Getting ready to install a Yellow Top for the winch, inverter and all other functions not related to keeping OROZŪK moving. Also a Cole Hersee smart battery isolator to manage proper charging of both batteries, prioritizing the Redtop, of course. Any sage advice will be appreciated as I'm sure that many of you have gone down this trail before me.
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Advocate II
I've got 2 of SEARS' new Gold Advanced AGM line in 34r.
Got a steal of a deal online at $140ea.
Now I'm trying to research the best charging system for my needs and budget.
-CP TACO
OB #2376
Got a steal of a deal online at $140ea.
Now I'm trying to research the best charging system for my needs and budget.
-CP TACO
OB #2376
Off-Road Ranger I
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Since I've been doing battery research for a while - solar and vehicle house batteries. I thought I'd share this link, the information in the Deep Cycle Battery FAQ matches up pretty well with every source I've found that isn't full of other misinformation.
https://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html
A couple of the more surprising things:
Deep cycle batteries shouldn't be drained beyond 50% if you want to retain maximum battery life.
12.02v = 50% battery charge (well not surprising but I'd never done the math, and I assumed it was lower).
A lot of "Deep Cycle batteries" aren't actually deep cycle.
I've been looking at LiFeO4, but I'm not happy with the state of chargers on the 12v - if I were going to go this route it would be using four 3.2v prismatic cells - not the cheapest route - it would be cheaper to just replace an AMG a few times.
I'm looking also looking at Silicon Salt - it seems to be much more resilient to deep cycling - full recovery from 10v. It also looks like it might support more cycles. The third advantage - to those of us in cooler climates, is that it's much less affected by low temperatures. Still - the testing I've found is only about two years running, so it's pretty early to make a call on longevity. These are about 314 for 100ah or 584 for 220ah. Which - if you're sticking to a drawdown to only 12v is a useable 50ah and 110ah.
If you're looking for something to keep you from over discharge. Blue Sea has the m-LVD a programmable low voltage disconnect. There's also one designed for your starter battery http://www.prioritystart.com/ that will cut off everything if/when your voltage hits the minimum needed to start your engine - I'm still looking into its limitations, but at first glance, it looks interesting.
https://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html
A couple of the more surprising things:
Deep cycle batteries shouldn't be drained beyond 50% if you want to retain maximum battery life.
12.02v = 50% battery charge (well not surprising but I'd never done the math, and I assumed it was lower).
A lot of "Deep Cycle batteries" aren't actually deep cycle.
I've been looking at LiFeO4, but I'm not happy with the state of chargers on the 12v - if I were going to go this route it would be using four 3.2v prismatic cells - not the cheapest route - it would be cheaper to just replace an AMG a few times.
I'm looking also looking at Silicon Salt - it seems to be much more resilient to deep cycling - full recovery from 10v. It also looks like it might support more cycles. The third advantage - to those of us in cooler climates, is that it's much less affected by low temperatures. Still - the testing I've found is only about two years running, so it's pretty early to make a call on longevity. These are about 314 for 100ah or 584 for 220ah. Which - if you're sticking to a drawdown to only 12v is a useable 50ah and 110ah.
If you're looking for something to keep you from over discharge. Blue Sea has the m-LVD a programmable low voltage disconnect. There's also one designed for your starter battery http://www.prioritystart.com/ that will cut off everything if/when your voltage hits the minimum needed to start your engine - I'm still looking into its limitations, but at first glance, it looks interesting.
I have installed the Genesis Offroad Dual Battery Kit in my 2015 Jeep JK Unlimited Rubicon. After checking their website, I chose to install two Odyssey 34-PC1500T deep cycle batteries. The online reviews of the battery seems to be quite good. I am very pleased with them.
Influencer II
I'm currently running a Numax 89Ah wet battery. Basically because it wasn't that expensive and compact for the capacity. Did have a optima yellow top but didn't match up in the capacity:size ratio and was very expensive. Got talked out of the Odyssey by their local sales Rep because isn't really designed as a dedicated leisure/auxiliary battery more as a dual application battery i.e. also good as a starter battery. Been looking at full river Agm batteries as a higher capacity replacement.
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I have a Blue Seas battery link system from my start batt to 2 group 31 AGM Dekka deep cycles, $230 ea at Sams, same batt at West Marine $340 with a different sticker. We travel a lot and a replacement or warranty issue can be dealt with nationwide, I can also bring a charge in from my 125W 10A solar panel or a Xantrex Marine 20A charger I can plug into 120V AC or my Yamaha 2000W inverter.. The 2 AGMs have a A-B switch so I can run or charge batt A,B, or both, they power Kisae 2000W pure sinewave inverter, all my D.C. accessories and 2M, CB, and marine VHF radios
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I also have the genesis set up in 2010 jku. Over a year or so with no issues. I run 2 yellow optima batteries. They both came from my v10 dodge with a dual set up. Still going strong.
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I have 2 Deka Intimidators 9A34R AGM batteries and a T-Max dual battery control. I have yet to have an issue at all. For prolonged camp-outs, I have a 75 watt solar panel attached, and I know I can power my fridge and lights for at least 4 days (and I'm sure more) without running out of power.
I went with the DEKA batteries because we deal with East Penn here at work, their service has been top notch for years, and I trusted them when they recommended that battery.
I went with the DEKA batteries because we deal with East Penn here at work, their service has been top notch for years, and I trusted them when they recommended that battery.
Influencer I
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Blue Sea ACR with Dual Optima Yellow tops, no issues and much better then the 2 Diehard Platinums I had in there before, re-badged Odyssey or not, those things were crap!
Enthusiast III
If you are a cheap DIY type, and your goal is similar to mine, I'll try and save you some time (and possibly money)!
Goal:
- I wanted a dual battery setup, using two batteries of any brand and in any condition. This way, I don't have to spend a lot on a new pair of matching batteries. I don't mind using "lesser" batteries if I have redundancy!
- I wanted the system to be intelligent, as in, "isolate" my main battery when necessary and not leave me stranded after a night of camping!
After a lot of reading, I found all the information I needed on this one page (it helped me a lot): http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
I then set out to install an isolator like the one suggested in the link above. I didn't buy it from there because I found it much cheaper elsewhere ( It's sold under different brands/names ).
To hook this all up , you'll need some good copper wires.. and they can get expensive. What I did was use the heaviest gauge booster cables made with solid copper that I could find (on sale, and without braking the bank). Jumper cables are often sold with copper coated wires which are not as good. I then cut the clamps off the ends of the booster cables, and used them for the wires. For cable ends (aka lugs, aka ringtail ends) I just used some copper plumbing pipe to make my own as shown in this video:
Shop around for the isolator. The price varies considerably. I *think* this is the same one I have (the specs are the same): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140AISO-smart-battery-isolator-12-volt-140-amp-/201853306518?hash=item2eff650696:g:h08AAOSw4A5YyEw6&vxp=mtr
This setup has been working great for me for 3 years now without ever touching it.
Goal:
- I wanted a dual battery setup, using two batteries of any brand and in any condition. This way, I don't have to spend a lot on a new pair of matching batteries. I don't mind using "lesser" batteries if I have redundancy!
- I wanted the system to be intelligent, as in, "isolate" my main battery when necessary and not leave me stranded after a night of camping!
After a lot of reading, I found all the information I needed on this one page (it helped me a lot): http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm
I then set out to install an isolator like the one suggested in the link above. I didn't buy it from there because I found it much cheaper elsewhere ( It's sold under different brands/names ).
To hook this all up , you'll need some good copper wires.. and they can get expensive. What I did was use the heaviest gauge booster cables made with solid copper that I could find (on sale, and without braking the bank). Jumper cables are often sold with copper coated wires which are not as good. I then cut the clamps off the ends of the booster cables, and used them for the wires. For cable ends (aka lugs, aka ringtail ends) I just used some copper plumbing pipe to make my own as shown in this video:
Shop around for the isolator. The price varies considerably. I *think* this is the same one I have (the specs are the same): http://www.ebay.ca/itm/140AISO-smart-battery-isolator-12-volt-140-amp-/201853306518?hash=item2eff650696:g:h08AAOSw4A5YyEw6&vxp=mtr
This setup has been working great for me for 3 years now without ever touching it.
Influencer II
I am also in the middle of a duel battery system setup. I'm
Going to try two X2 battery. Has anyone tried them?
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Going to try two X2 battery. Has anyone tried them?
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Funny I read that same article about dual battery setup and found it useful as well. I have a isolator and everything wired just waiting for a battery tray I found and if course have to buy 2nd battery. Will post pics when done
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If you want to make use of both batteries power and have the starter battery isolated at 50% charge and the aux at a lower charge.... With reverse charging . Check out the SC-80 from Traxide. I have that system in my LR4.
I have Century 120ah AGM however, my starting battery drops below 11v as soon the VSR disconnects the second battery. When the engine is running the main battery voltage is close 14v. Not sure what is wrong
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For those running AGM batteries, how long do they last before needing replacement?
My rig came factory equipped with dual batteries, and no isolation, so a matched set is required. The current pair of AGMs were in it when I bought it, and are about 3 years old.
My rig came factory equipped with dual batteries, and no isolation, so a matched set is required. The current pair of AGMs were in it when I bought it, and are about 3 years old.
I bought the DieHard Platinum P-4 that is in my 4Runner in 2009, used. It was supposedly 1 year old at that time, which makes it about 11 years old now. This battery seemingly refuses to die (living up to its name) no matter how many times I drain it down past the point where it will start the truck. I'd buy another one if they still made them.
