Dodge Ram 1500 Flat bed

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Hi guys so I'm planning on building a flat bed for my 2004 Dodge ram 1500. I wanna build this flat bed because my truck has some pretty bad rust on the wheel wells and to help give me ground clearence and some space for bigger tires down the road. I have a very basic design for the flatbed already done and am just on here seeking advice from anyone who has built or knows anything about building flatbeds for these trucks.I am planning on using 2x3in and 2x2 in steel tube for the frame and some sort of oak wood for the decking. I am an engineering student and used solidworks CAD to design it (Overkill I Know) Any feedback on the desing from people that have experience with flatbed trucks or any idead of stuff to add would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

[MMc]

I like it. Have you thought about putting a fuel cell or water storage between the rails? It wouldn’t be hard to bolt a tank or two before you put flood on.

 

[TexasGMG]

I've always liked flatbeds. Lots of versatility (tons of modular attachments can be built to change it's use ). I also second adding a water tank and larger fuel under the bed and if you could afford it I'd look at aluminum decking for weight.

Keep us updated.

 

[PNW EXPLR]

I like it also. I would look at dimensions of some of the flab bed campers. if you build it wide enough to mount a popup camper to will have room to expand if you choose to go a different direction. I would also look at the sizes of the underbed type boxes to make sure you have the proper bed length to mount boxes in front and behind the tires. You will have to plan ahead for the future tire size and articulation.

 

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I like it. Have you thought about putting a fuel cell or water storage between the rails? It wouldn’t be hard to bolt a tank or two before you put flood on.

Havent thought about it would be nice though given my trucks very limited range.Thanks!
The only other thing i am most likely going to add at this point in time is a spare tire mount on the side of the bed.

 

[Drkhrts]

Look into the Australian made canopies- they are just flat beds with accessories. unless you’re going to haul stuff that weighs as much as the truck there’s no need for all the structural steel tube back there, you will end up with a flat bed 3x stronger them the rest of the truck. Is yours a 1500 or 2500? Check into your gvwr- that will show you pretty quick what you can build as far as the truck is meant to carry.

in any case the drawings look good!

 

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Here are some things that i was thinking about adding mainly the tire location and some small aesthetic features. (Please excuse the sloppy hand drawing)

 

[SquishBang]

No concerns about using a 1/2 ton chassis?

We have many flat beds at work. Usually a flatbed is used along with heavy, palatalized items that require forklift loading. In fact, I don't think any of our trucks are smaller than 4500 or F450 with flatbeds.

I don't think a 1/2 ton chassis has enough payload capacity to justify a flatbed, even though I understand you are not going to be hauling palettes of cinder blocks, hopefully any future owners don't try it!

It seems like a good platform as long as you, the original owner, keep tabs on the weight you are adding. All these ideas of extra tanks, under bed boxes, camper, yikes. You'll quickly max out the 1/2 ton chassis IMO. Remember, you need to calculate any added tanks or bed boxes as "full weight". After calculating all weights, you should label the bed somewhere with a weight limit or capacity for future owners as someone may get the wrong idea!
Also, judging by proposed drawing length, it appears you may have a 4 door Ram? That'll have even less capacity than a standard cab. Maybe I'm wrong, but most 1/2 ton trucks have the highest capacity in standard cab 2wd form, the crew cabs, access cabs and 4x4 usually reduce capacity.

I feel like a 3/4 ton is a better starting point.

 

[TexasGMG]

No concerns about using a 1/2 ton chassis?

We have many flat beds at work. Usually a flatbed is used along with heavy, palatalized items that require forklift loading. In fact, I don't think any of our trucks are smaller than 4500 or F450 with flatbeds.

I don't think a 1/2 ton chassis has enough payload capacity to justify a flatbed, even though I understand you are not going to be hauling palettes of cinder blocks, hopefully any future owners don't try it!

It seems like a good platform as long as you, the original owner, keep tabs on the weight you are adding. All these ideas of extra tanks, under bed boxes, camper, yikes. You'll quickly max out the 1/2 ton chassis IMO. Remember, you need to calculate any added tanks or bed boxes as "full weight". After calculating all weights, you should label the bed somewhere with a weight limit or capacity for future owners as someone may get the wrong idea!
Also, judging by proposed drawing length, it appears you may have a 4 door Ram? That'll have even less capacity than a standard cab. Maybe I'm wrong, but most 1/2 ton trucks have the highest capacity in standard cab 2wd form, the crew cabs, access cabs and 4x4 usually reduce capacity.

I feel like a 3/4 ton is a better starting point.

Check out the utes in Austrailia. They're using midsize trucks with flatbeds and camper boxes.

 

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No concerns about using a 1/2 ton chassis?

We have many flat beds at work. Usually a flatbed is used along with heavy, palatalized items that require forklift loading. In fact, I don't think any of our trucks are smaller than 4500 or F450 with flatbeds.

I don't think a 1/2 ton chassis has enough payload capacity to justify a flatbed, even though I understand you are not going to be hauling palettes of cinder blocks, hopefully any future owners don't try it!

It seems like a good platform as long as you, the original owner, keep tabs on the weight you are adding. All these ideas of extra tanks, under bed boxes, camper, yikes. You'll quickly max out the 1/2 ton chassis IMO. Remember, you need to calculate any added tanks or bed boxes as "full weight". After calculating all weights, you should label the bed somewhere with a weight limit or capacity for future owners as someone may get the wrong idea!
Also, judging by proposed drawing length, it appears you may have a 4 door Ram? That'll have even less capacity than a standard cab. Maybe I'm wrong, but most 1/2 ton trucks have the highest capacity in standard cab 2wd form, the crew cabs, access cabs and 4x4 usually reduce capacity.

I feel like a 3/4 ton is a better starting point.

I do understand the concerns with adding this much weight to the rear of the vehicle, These are mainly preliminary drawings to get an idea of what I want/ might be useful. I have software that will be able to calculate the exact weight of the bed and any accessories I want to add using CAD and I am going to try to optomize it to be lightweight as possible.For the concern with payload capacity. 90% of the hauling I do is using a trailer and when I am using the bed of the truck it is usually for my dirtbike and other pretty light loads. I will keep an eye on the gvwr. Thanks for the advice! (I am also only a college student so I am trying to levrage my skills and things that I already have to get the best possible end result without breaking the bank)

 

[SquishBang]

I did a little more digging, can't tell from your bio which Ram you have, judging by your profile pic, looks like at least a Quad Cab with 4.7 V8?

You are roughly only allowed somewhere in the range of 1300 pounds payload for 4x4 and 1600 pounds for RWD truck. This includes the cargo in the cab and weight of passengers and driver. Here's a good reference to consider: 2004 RAM Pickup Payload and Towing Charts

On my heavy Nissan Titan Crew Cab 4x4, adding my Leer canopy and cargo basket has my payload down to under 1100 pounds. With me, my wife and son in the truck, the truck can only "officially" carry another 700 pounds which includes ANY tongue weight if you are towing.

Me personally, I overload my truck all the time. Drives pretty much the same. But, if you are making actual modifications to the truck, keep all of this in mind.

 

[SquishBang]

Check out the utes in Austrailia. They're using midsize trucks with flatbeds and camper boxes.

In Europe, passenger cars have higher tow ratings than their USDM equivalents do because they have different rating system. You'll see sedans in Europe pulling dual axle TT's when the same car in USA is "rated" under 3000 pounds.

I know his 1/2 ton "can do it" but technically, by our "laws" or "rules" here, he could very quickly go over "stated capacity" with all of these doo-dads he's dreaming up.
An insurance company can, and has been known to, take a wrecked rig to a scale and check it. Lot's of YT videos about bent frames on newer trucks getting denied after insurance adjuster weighed the rig (rig=truck/SUV+whatever it had on it and/or was towing).

I drive my Titan "heavy" all the time. Shrugs it off. I have no doubt a 1/2 ton can do it. But, if the young man is into "engineering", he's gonna need to do the math, and how it relates to use in USA. I won't complain if he goes over-weight, I'm just offering a factual counterpoint to think about!

 

[SquishBang]

I do understand the concerns with adding this much weight to the rear of the vehicle, These are mainly preliminary drawings to get an idea of what I want/ might be useful. I have software that will be able to calculate the exact weight of the bed and any accessories I want to add using CAD and I am going to try to optomize it to be lightweight as possible.For the concern with payload capacity. 90% of the hauling I do is using a trailer and when I am using the bed of the truck it is usually for my dirtbike and other pretty light loads. I will keep an eye on the gvwr. Thanks for the advice! (I am also only a college student so I am trying to levrage my skills and things that I already have to get the best possible end result without breaking the bank)

Well, it'll be a fun project, for sure. I have my own engineering business, I love when the "final product" comes to reality.

Just be sure to clearly label the bed or truck somewhere that the next owner can see. Cause when I see "flatbed" I'm thinking 1000+ pound palettes and forklifts!

 

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Well, it'll be a fun project, for sure. I have my own engineering business, I love when the "final product" comes to reality.

Just be sure to clearly label the bed or truck somewhere that the next owner can see. Cause when I see "flatbed" I'm thinking 1000+ pound palettes and forklifts!

Yeah I definitely understand that mentality Probably wont sell it at least not anytime in the near future. Will keep that label in mind though. The main reason for this build is that the stock bed on my truck is rusted to hell and a rust free bed with no damage is kind of hard to come by near me. Again thanks for the advice!

 

[Boostpowered]

Do you plan on towing a gooseneck trailer or plan on hauling quads or dirtbikes or a welder on the flatbed, or it it just because you like how it looks? Hauling anything make it from steel just for looks id go with aluminum. Id also include stake pockets around the perimeter so you can make wood bedsides to throw on if you need em they also make good tiedown points when sides arent on.

 

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Do you plan on towing a gooseneck trailer or plan on hauling quads or dirtbikes or a welder on the flatbed, or it it just because you like how it looks? Hauling anything make it from steel just for looks id go with aluminum. Id also include stake pockets around the perimeter so you can make wood bedsides to throw on if you need em they also make good tiedown points when sides arent on.

The main reason for the steel is because I do not know how to weld aluminum and have more experience with steel. I also will be hauling dirtbikes and quads but do not plan on a gooseneck at the moment. I was going to add stake pockets but just prefer working with steel is all.

 

[Boostpowered]

The main reason for the steel is because I do not know how to weld aluminum and have more experience with steel. I also will be hauling dirtbikes and quads but do not plan on a gooseneck at the moment. I was going to add stake pockets but just prefer working with steel is all.

If you have access to a tig welder its not really much different than mig you got a stick, gun, and usually a foot pedal turn on the argon and your good to go. Im not knocking steel but if your planning on going that route look into getting new stiffer springs and shocks made for towing for the rear, possibly air bags steel gets heavy quick. If going through all the trouble to design and build your own and no gooseneck in your future id also look at making it a tilt bed to make loading the bikes and quads a little easier.
I recommend aluminum because its lighter and wont require a beefed up rear suspension and thats what most of the guys in aussie land use for their overlanding utes which are normally smaller trucks, the price of aluminum may be high but a beefed up suspension for steel will likely offset that price tag.

 

[shocwav3]

Very cool Concept. Interested to see it take shape!

 

[MazeVX]

Think about aluminum, really! The thing is you can use Pop rivets to join the parts and remember, airplanes are made that way and some military trailers have chassis made from riveted aluminum.
Just as a idea...
There are also quite a few companies selling aluminum flat beds.