Do you use beadlock wheels

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phlfly

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Hi all,
I'm looking to upgrade wheels on Nissan Titan XD with 17 in, 35's with zero offset. I was browsing wheels brands like: Anthem off road, MKW, ICON, Black Rhino and KMC. I wanted with beadlocks but it's like $2500 just wheels. Than may look for hybrid or even simulated beadlock as for look.
So, do you use wheels with beadlock? Is it even good idea to spend that much but get a little for it, as we do drive full size rigs?
I like it KMC KM 719 Canyon any opinion in this? Any good for off road well what we do? Any opinion is welcome.

 

Akicita

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I run bead-locks because the trails I frequent are often muddy, deep sand, or deep snow, and when when airing down to single digits for these conditions, it minimizes the chance of throwing a bead off. In my experience, they aren't needed if you only plan to air down 25% or more of your recommended tire inflation. . . 20% would be more conservative and safer.

It will depend on what type of terrain you plan to off-road on and if airing down to below 25% is necessary.
 
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phlfly

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Well I consider depends on tire side wall construction, I'm attend to use 10 ply tire with E rating.
 
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Akicita

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I don't feel the sidewall ply is a bigger factor than your anticipated lowest tire pressure, rim width to tread width and bead seat size for the wheels you are considering. I have busted beads in deep sand and snow The biggest factor in my experience is the low tire pressure and type of terrain they will be used in.
 
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phlfly

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That is true too. I'm just not fan of spending 2500 that may be never really to use as East coast, also my truck is 9,000 so going heavy off road by my self that is never a good idea.
 
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Akicita

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I would only spend the money if you plan on airing down to the low teens or single digits on a semi-regular or regular basis. I navigate some pretty tough terrain in the Rockies and AZ/Utah deserts running at 22-24 psi and very rarely go down to the extreme lows where bead-locks are really needed.
 
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Akicita

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Well. . . assuming your GAWR for your XD is around 4500 lbs., you would need a wheel rated at 2250 lbs or higher. I'm guessing the wheels you're looking at are all rated at 2500lbs or higher.
 
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phlfly

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Now looking these:
KMC KM719 Canyon 17x8.5 0 offset KM 71978568400
Icon Alloys Thrust 17x8.5 0 offset - 2817858347SSBT
MKW offroad M204 17x9 0 offset M204-1790655000G
 

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I'm running Raceline RT-81 beadlocks with 35x12.5 Nitto trail grapplers. My curb weight is about 4650, and I air down to 16 in deep sand/mud.
Great results and ride.
 

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I dont but would if could part with the money. The ability to air down to single digits is huge, or at least it is for the terrain we end up in.
 

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I've run them on two vehicles, Method and Walker Evens. It wasn't uncommon for me to run 8-10 pounds of pressure in the rocks. My latest vehicles run fake beadlocks. No need for real and I love the look.
The biggest issue with beadlocks is having someone else change a tire for you and screwing up the ring torque. Do it wrong and you hopefully only warped the ring.
 

DintDobbs

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I don't, never have, and never will (don't have the terrain to necessitate it here).

@Akicita said it the best. Beadlock wheels are only needed when you absolutely need them, and are an extreme inconvenience at all other times. Not sure if any beadlock tires are actually DOT approved, but this may not concern you.

Basically what it comes down to is, do you actually anticipate needing them? If so, might as well get them now. $2500 now will be $5000 later. If you have never debeaded your tires, you "could" wait until it happens and then pull the trigger, but that can be dangerous.
 
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phlfly

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Now I'm looking to get Method wheels 700 series they do bead grip technologies. I watched youtuber Revere Overland, he has Toyota Tundra, so in Canada he did drop tires to 10 psi going thru snow and all look good. I know it's not a " real" bead lock but it helps to keep tire at low speeds. I fond a deal with about 300 discount, the price about 1400 for 4 wheels.
 
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I don't use bead locks on my full-size rig for a few reasons. First, the wheel/tire package is already heavy enough (30.6lbs wheel, 94lbs tire for a 124.6lbs combo). But probably even more of a factor is that I only air-down to 25psi at the lowest. My rig is ~10k lbs loaded out, I run an E 10-ply tire at 60-65psi for the pavement, and generally 35ish for the dirt. The most I'd consider going down to in this tank is 25psi, and I don't feel like a bead lock is a "must have" staying at 25psi.

-TJ
 
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Method wheels 700 series they do bead grip technologies
Method really hit the mark with those. As a driver I love them, wish they had it in a fake beadlock. As a tech...ugh. They raised the lip inside the rim (safety bead) and added teeth. That makes it a bit harder to replace the tire.
 
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phlfly

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I don't use bead locks on my full-size rig for a few reasons. First, the wheel/tire package is already heavy enough (30.6lbs wheel, 94lbs tire for a 124.6lbs combo). But probably even more of a factor is that I only air-down to 25psi at the lowest. My rig is ~10k lbs loaded out, I run an E 10-ply tire at 60-65psi for the pavement, and generally 35ish for the dirt. The most I'd consider going down to in this tank is 25psi, and I don't feel like a bead lock is a "must have" staying at 25psi.

-TJ
I like your comment. That was my point too as heavy rigs don't go down to 10 psi
 

FishFam_logs

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Run 17” Raceline Bead Locks and 37” Toyos, E rated 10ply.
I don’t have the GVW of a full size rig and I can go down to 2psi with this setup. Of course my terrain tends to be extreme and I need the low psi.
I’ve seen beads rolled in several scenarios; sand, snow, rocks, low psi, street psi. It’s typically bad driving not the rim.
I will say, i really enjoy the confidence I get from the thick sidewalls and beadlocks. I have tortured these things, smile and keep going.
 

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What are everyone's thoughts on the Grip Lock rims? A machined or knurled surface that grips the bead. That's what I'm using now.