Diesel heaters

[smritte]

Regarding your metal fuel can; do you use a quick disconnect for the fuel line and do you have any problems with having to reprime the system? I think there are some advantages to a remote tank and am thinking of going that way with mine.

I use a small Wavian fuel can and this adapter. The link is one I found randomly but the adapter is used for generators. My heater is mounted in a Pelican case. I have the fuel lid and hose stored in there. This way I can keep the fuel can sealed on my rear rack. I keep fuel in the hose itself and using a short piece of rubber tube, I have it looped to the pickup on the bottom. This negates the need for siphoning some fuel to prime the line. If I have to, its not difficult to prime. Some heaters have a prime feature.

The second is an aftermarket controller called Afterburner. My buddy uses this in his trailer, and it works well for him.

That was the one I was referring to. Its also where I got my info on the electronics. Before you order one of his, you open your unit and identify what board they used. Mine wasn't compatible.
My unit is also "pre remote" I would have to replace it to get the Burek. As cheap as the heaters are, I may consider it. I added a big awning room to my trailer and my 5k would work well for that.

 

[PCO6]

I use a small Wavian fuel can and this adapter. The link is one I found randomly but the adapter is used for generators. My heater is mounted in a Pelican case. I have the fuel lid and hose stored in there. This way I can keep the fuel can sealed on my rear rack. I keep fuel in the hose itself and using a short piece of rubber tube, I have it looped to the pickup on the bottom. This negates the need for siphoning some fuel to prime the line. If I have to, its not difficult to prime. Some heaters have a prime feature.

Thanks. That's good to know. I'm looking at a Scepter plastic can so my adapter will have to be a bit different but your idea is good.

 

[smritte]

There are two ways to add thermostat style control to heaters that don't have it (easily, that is). One method I looked into as a controller that intercept and replaces the remote.

I just watched their video, that Bureck unit is exactly what I need. That also means I need a new heater. My 5k is too much for my trailer, I was (one day) going to replace it wit a 2k. I may do that sooner than later.
Did you stay with the Vevor on your 2k unit?

 

[reaver]

My unit is also "pre remote" I would have to replace it to get the Burek. As cheap as the heaters are, I may consider it. I added a big awning room to my trailer and my 5k would work well for that.

You should be able to upgrade the control board and controller to match the features of newer models.

I just watched their video, that Bureck unit is exactly what I need. That also means I need a new heater. My 5k is too much for my trailer, I was (one day) going to replace it wit a 2k. I may do that sooner than later.
Did you stay with the Vevor on your 2k unit?

Both heaters I have are 2k models. Both have a built in thermostat mode, and I may test it out on my next trip.

I have parts coming today to start working on a heater inlet port for the side of the trailer. I want to make sure everything is working as expected before I cut a 4 in hole in the side of my trailer.....

 

[smritte]

Do you have a link to who makes upgraded boards? That sounds like something I want to do. One of my buddies had his board burn out after a year. That may be an alternative to replacing the unit.

 

[smritte]

OK, found something on controller upgrade. It looks like its just the display. is that what you were referring to?

 

[smritte]

Found some with the internal control board. Huge hit or miss. Reviews say it either works or doesn't. Unfortunately, no one posts who's heater they have. UGH

 

[reaver]

You usually need to replace all the control parts together to make sure they work.

https://a.co/d/clXjtyr

I initially tried replacing the board in one of my 2k heaters with a slightly different model number, and it didn't work.

So all the parts need to be designed to work together.