Decisions, decisions

[Firemedicc]

Hi all,

My first real post, I'll try to keep it short.

I have a dilemma: do I build up my existing daily driver, or do I purchase a new daily driver to build up?

Background:

My family and I are getting set to next year begin overlanding. Our idea of overlanding is slightly different and more tame than many. We look forward to purchasing a Black Series Classic Double and doing some basic camping (sites) and offroad adventuring/off grid camping. The terrain we'll be tackling won't be hardcore at first, or maybe ever.

Our budget would dictate that I'd like to be able to keep one vehicle for all my needs. Currently that vehicle is a 2010 GMC Sierra, bone stock, with 125K miles. It's dependable, has had no major issues (knock on wood) and suits all my needs.

I'm not one to spend money unnecessarily (cheap) if I can help it, but I also appreciate quality.

So, I've come to this quandary of whether or not to stick any money into this truck, which is what I would like to do, or if should start with a newer truck.

My ideas for an immediate build would be to rebuild the front end with new inner and outer tie rods, control arms, brakes on all four corners, rough country leveling struts, rough country shocks and 2 inch rear lift block, and, of course, 33" tires.

Everything except the front end rebuild would be needed in any other vehicle I'd get, but I'd like some of you to weigh in on whether this 125k mile truck is worthy of investment, or if I should be looking for a gently used truck with which to upgrade.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Also, if you have any ideas on things I should change or look for, or a way to reframe this crazy notion of mine, that, too, would be great.

 

[Shakes355]

I currently drive a 2008 Silverado Half ton. Since you mentioned lift struts, I assume you have a 1500 as well.

I think the platform is pretty solid personally, though my towing is generally done on road.

Being a 2010, I think you should have the 6 speed automatic which is heads and tails better than my 4L60E. Without knowing your exact engine package, I can say that with proper care and maintenance 125k is still young. (Regardless of the combination of DoD and VVT.)

Weaknesses as I see them:

*Aftermarket accessories are few and far between and tend to be pricey.

*Front diff is tragically weak and thus has no limited slip or locker available.

*Factory trans cooler is undersized

Recommendations:

*Get the largest aux trans cooler you can get installed (cheap insurance for your trans)

*Regear to 4.10(ish) when you up your tire size and install a traction device in the rear axle (the factory Gov-lok had stripped its teeth when I got in there at 120k). I went Truetrac and love it.

*The 2" RC lift block will replace your factory 1.5" block (same block I purchased), but you'll be much happier scrapping the factory leaf springs all together. Buy a set of new/used springs from a 2500HD as well as some longer u-bolts (direct swap; no funny business). The Factory 2/1 leaf pack rides great unloaded but is just too soft for towing and hauling (I went through 2 sets before I had enough. They kept sagging and giving me terrible axle wrap). The 2500HD 4/1 packs are night and day better without riding like bricks.

*Say no to the Rancho Shocks in the back. Get some Bilsteins. The fronts are more about preference. Some folks like the Rancho lift struts, others dont. But the rears are too important if you're towing. Spend once and be done.

My 5.3 is 215k and counting. Doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes and gets me up every forest road and trail I've attempted. Happy trails

Edit: upper control arms are a good investment as the ball joints are cast into them and not serviced separately. Lower ball joints are serviced separately so theres little need to replace the control arm unless its a) Damaged or b) cheaper than replacing just the ball joints.
I generally only replace tie rods as they go bad or if the boots are torn.

 

[Firemedicc]

So, my 1500 has the Max Trailering Package (Z82, Z85) on it. Which maybe addresses some of the problems you pointed out.

It has bigger springs, 3.73 gears (which isn't 4.10 I know) bigger cooling capacity, etc. How does that play in?

I also have the LC9 (I think) and it was, for a bit, giving me a puff of oil after starting it last winter but over the last couple oil changes it seems, better, which is odd. Since 70k miles I've had to replace the oil pressure sensor every 20k miles and i have that task down to 20 minutes now, but otherwise it's a strong engine.

But, the shock advice will be heeded and I'll look into that locker. I'm disappointed in the front diff, but what can you do?

I figured I'd replace the control arms just because the price was right, same with the tie rods, and because if I'm in for a penny, I'm in for a pound.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Shakes355]

Yeah, so the upgraded leafs in the HD trailering equipment are still 2/1 (2 main +1 overload=3 total leafs) as far as I'm aware. They are just rated at roughly 1750# vs the base 1500#. My truck had the z71 suspension and the Z82 trailering package. Its basically the slightly stiffer springs plus factory hitch, wiring, aux trans cooler, and slightly higher rated shocks for the tougher springs.

2500HD springs are rated between 1850 and 2025# depending on manufacturer.

Edit: Not telling you to do the spring swap, btw. Only mentioning it since I was unhappy with the factory pack. The bilstein shocks (5100) are good to +2" of lift, so you could easily run factory springs and upgrade later (if you felt the need) without wasting any cash.

 

[MidOH]

-if you switch, but you're switching to a used truck........I'd fix up what you have instead. I only buy American trucks new. I never use warranty service for anything major. I never lemon law anything. I trade them in. The next guy gets screwed. There's no need to ditch your ride just yet.

-I'd get a different truck. All that work just to level out and fit 33'' tires? I'd get any configuration Dodge 2500 or Ford F250. Base-ish models to cut cost. 35x12.5r18 fit a box stock F250 with room to spare. Already has a rear elocker and skid plates. A front Yukon Griz autolocker drops in easy for any axle shop, the F250 front axle is hardcore and needs no mods for a front locker. End of the year sales.......about $40k for CCSB Fx4's. And those trucks won't even notice that model trailer. Waaay overkill.

-if you have the cash for that kind of trailer, you don't have to rush into either option. Unlike slide in campers, you don't have to be careful about truck selection as much. You can run what you have, and upgrade later, at any time.

-trans cooler, trans cooler, trans cooler. Make sure you have one. Why does GM skip this? And frequently check the lines for corrosion. Our OEM GM cooler lines would fail around 100k miles, and cook the trans by letting all of the ATF out.

 

[Firemedicc]

Thanks. My current plan is to get a new(er) vehicle in 2 to 3 years irrespective of whether I sink money into this pig in any real way. To make that happen I need brakes, tires, and some minor repairs done anyway.

I like the idea of moving to a 3/4 ton.