Custom Roof Racks

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AdventureWithDanan

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Who here has done some custom roof racks?

How did you anchor it down?

I want a rack for the roof of my 2016 Tundra Crewmax but I just don't want to drill holes in the roof and I'd also like to be able to remove the rack. I'd also like the rack to be strong enough to hold several hundred pounds (not that I'll put that much gear there)

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
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20DYNAMITE07

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Who here has done some custom roof racks?

How did you anchor it down?

I want a rack for the roof of my 2016 Tundra Crewmax but I just don't want to drill holes in the roof and I'd also like to be able to remove the rack. I'd also like the rack to be strong enough to hold several hundred pounds (not that I'll put that much gear there)

Thoughts? Ideas?
If you don't want to drill, you can go with a traditional removable crossbar setup like Thule or Yakima, and then attach whatever platform you want to it.
 

AdventureWithDanan

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How much do you want to carry up there? Because they can easily support a rooftop tent, and meet or exceed the dynamic load recommendations of most truck manufacturers (including Toyota).

Just a thought. Good luck, Dude!!!!
I thought they were only rated for 150 lbs... If I can put a rack up there that will hold 400 lbs then that's a wiener!
 

20DYNAMITE07

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I thought they were only rated for 150 lbs... If I can put a rack up there that will hold 400 lbs then that's a wiener!
Well... 150 is the recommended dynamic load maximum for most toyota trucks (4runners, tacos, and I presume your Tundra)... for a static load (meaning while you're parked) it can hold waaaay more.

They just don't recommend exceeding the dynamic load recommendations of the truck manufacturer, and that is calculated based upon both the strength of the roof and the increased risk of rollover.
 

AdventureWithDanan

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Well... 150 is the recommended dynamic load maximum for most toyota trucks (4runners, tacos, and I presume your Tundra)... for a static load (meaning while you're parked) it can hold waaaay more.

They just don't recommend exceeding the dynamic load recommendations of the truck manufacturer, and that is calculated based upon both the strength of the roof and the increased risk of rollover.
Well then! I think I'll just refrain from jumping on the roof then! Thanks for the info! Most insightful.
 
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Elan

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I used my old cheap roof basket and added to it and made the cross bars into it to bring down the height. I have a few more things to do to it and I should have it mounted in the morning and Ill post more pictures.
 

Caleb Cowan

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I have a 2016 Z71 Colorado. It's impossible to find a quality rack that isn't several thousands of dollars.

I constructed a rack for the bed of my truck using 1 1/2" tubular steel (.08g) for the vertical and side to side posts. I then used the same gage, but 1" steel for the 4 cross bars (front to back). I welded deep to ensure lots of structural strength, but also to allow me to grind the exterior joints flush and to rhino line them as well. I made the vertical posts with a 20 degree angle to allow them to taper to match the cab of the truck and then I made them stick 6" into the post holes on each of the 4 corners of the truck. I welded Angle iron on the part of the post that it even with the bed rail (only a 4" section of angle iron) to allow it to fit snugly against the bed rail. I then drilled 1x holes in each of the posts and bed posts using a 3/8 bit and secured with a 3/8 sleeve anchor. The sleeve anchors don't come back out easily and they're $1 at lowes, so if I remove it I'll just cut them.. with this said, I ground the ends of the anchors flush to the nut used to tighten them and placed a small bead of weld to eliminate their ability to slip and then Rhino Lined them to match the bed of my truck.

I have stress tested this rack off of the truck (in case it broke I'd rather it hit ground than a $40k truck). It held 950 lbs without strain. Once anchored in the truck I attached a ceiling hoist to the rear of the rack and managed to gain 4" of vertical height in the suspension before calling it a success.

Needless to say, it was a fun day-long project and it saved me $1,000+. Total cost of materials to include steel and rhino line was under $150. Thank you Amazon for free shipping on tubular steel!

Hope this helps! (And yes, the color of my truck did change. GM did a new vehicle replacement due to a warranty issue with my silver one.)

 

goleee33

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I have a 2016 Z71 Colorado. It's impossible to find a quality rack that isn't several thousands of dollars.

I constructed a rack for the bed of my truck using 1 1/2" tubular steel (.08g) for the vertical and side to side posts. I then used the same gage, but 1" steel for the 4 cross bars (front to back). I welded deep to ensure lots of structural strength, but also to allow me to grind the exterior joints flush and to rhino line them as well. I made the vertical posts with a 20 degree angle to allow them to taper to match the cab of the truck and then I made them stick 6" into the post holes on each of the 4 corners of the truck. I welded Angle iron on the part of the post that it even with the bed rail (only a 4" section of angle iron) to allow it to fit snugly against the bed rail. I then drilled 1x holes in each of the posts and bed posts using a 3/8 bit and secured with a 3/8 sleeve anchor. The sleeve anchors don't come back out easily and they're $1 at lowes, so if I remove it I'll just cut them.. with this said, I ground the ends of the anchors flush to the nut used to tighten them and placed a small bead of weld to eliminate their ability to slip and then Rhino Lined them to match the bed of my truck.

I have stress tested this rack off of the truck (in case it broke I'd rather it hit ground than a $40k truck). It held 950 lbs without strain. Once anchored in the truck I attached a ceiling hoist to the rear of the rack and managed to gain 4" of vertical height in the suspension before calling it a success.

Needless to say, it was a fun day-long project and it saved me $1,000+. Total cost of materials to include steel and rhino line was under $150. Thank you Amazon for free shipping on tubular steel!

Hope this helps! (And yes, the color of my truck did change. GM did a new vehicle replacement due to a warranty issue with my silver one.)
Hi!

I have a 2015 Z71 Colorado short bed. I currently have a soft topper, but am considering ditching it for a rack to run a RTT as well, however I want to keep my RTT flush with the cab. Do you mind showing pictures of how you mounted it to the bed rails?
 

Caleb Cowan

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Hi!

I have a 2015 Z71 Colorado short bed. I currently have a soft topper, but am considering ditching it for a rack to run a RTT as well, however I want to keep my RTT flush with the cab. Do you mind showing pictures of how you mounted it to the bed rails?
Yeah! Give me about 2 hours and I'll send you pictures of what I did. I didn't mount it to the bed rails specifically, I just have angle iron holding the tube flush against the bed rail, and then have 3/8" anchors actually holding the tubular steel to the bed posts. Pics to follow when I get out of the office!
 
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RaggedViking

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Well... 150 is the recommended dynamic load maximum for most toyota trucks (4runners, tacos, and I presume your Tundra)... for a static load (meaning while you're parked) it can hold waaaay more.

They just don't recommend exceeding the dynamic load recommendations of the truck manufacturer, and that is calculated based upon both the strength of the roof and the increased risk of rollover.
I designed racks and worked with auto manufacturers for over a decade and though this may have been "more" true 15-20 years ago, it's not now - as both the sheetmetal and structures on passenger vehicles has changed.
If Thule recommends a dynamic load rating of 150, you're probably looking at a maximum static of 250-300. That would go for most vehicles - static is 75-100% more at most than dynamic capacity. Cargo vans are different because they have more structural supports - and truck beds you can do whatever the heck you want with.

With that being said, I always recommend going over the bed if you have a truck.
If you've got a cap, check with the manufacturer, but you can get 300-500lbs out of a good cap.
 
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vicali

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RaggedViking

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I like this one;



http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-parts-accessories-exterior-mods/166314-super-low-profile-roof-rack-w-led-lighting.html
I know Prinsu doesn't have a Tundra rack yet, do you have the rain channels on the roof? Are there any mounts under there? That is how the Tacomas bolt on but they were offered with the OEM rack as well.
The roof line - hell the whole cab structure and design - of the 2016 Tundra is the same as the 2007-2015. There's a drip rail up there.
 

Caleb Cowan

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As you can see, the angle iron is just for each of the 4 posts. Nothing crazy. It's tight against the bed rail to aid in a snug fit. The anchors are 3/8. I could have used it aw and fit the current hole that's in the bed frame from the factory, but I wanted to leave that hole accessible for a future mounting or tie down point.

Hi!

I have a 2015 Z71 Colorado short bed. I currently have a soft topper, but am considering ditching it for a rack to run a RTT as well, however I want to keep my RTT flush with the cab. Do you mind showing pictures of how you mounted it to the bed rails?
 
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goleee33

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As you can see, the angle iron is just for each of the 4 posts. Nothing crazy. It's tight against the bed rail to aid in a snug fit. The anchors are 3/8. I could have used it aw and fit the current hole that's in the bed frame from the factory, but I wanted to leave that hole accessible for a future mounting or tie down point.

Looks great! Thanks for the photos.
 

20DYNAMITE07

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I designed racks and worked with auto manufacturers for over a decade and though this may have been "more" true 15-20 years ago, it's not now - as both the sheetmetal and structures on passenger vehicles has changed.
If Thule recommends a dynamic load rating of 150, you're probably looking at a maximum static of 250-300. That would go for most vehicles - static is 75-100% more at most than dynamic capacity. Cargo vans are different because they have more structural supports - and truck beds you can do whatever the heck you want with.

With that being said, I always recommend going over the bed if you have a truck.
If you've got a cap, check with the manufacturer, but you can get 300-500lbs out of a good cap.
Cool! Thanks for the info!
 
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RaggedViking

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I just like putting it out there because I've see all the scary stuff. I watched the A and B pillars buckle on a Jeep Liberty under a fairly light load and it just shook me to the core (and led to a major redesign by Jeep).
RTT's still freak me out - especially on factory cross bars - but I'm getting used to them over time.
Therapy has helped. Haha.