Continental Divide and Colorado BDR

[velo47]

Continental Divide and Colorado BDR

Last May, I drove the Arizona Backcountry Discovery Route with three others, one Jeep and two motorcycles. Bill, Patrick, and John were great to travel with and we had an awesome trip. So, this year when they said they wanted to do the Colorado BDR, I was all in. Their schedules dictated that we do the trip the week beginning on July 5, and we would do the trip south to north.

Our family usually goes up to western Montana to visit my stepdaughter, fish, and generally laze about around the end of July, so I thought maybe I could combine a trip up the Continental Divide, the CO BDR, and our family vacation into a great adventure. My wife, stepson, and grandson could not do the whole trip due to other commitments, jobs, etc., so…

On June 26, I left home on epic journey (for me, anyway). I set off to drive the Continental Divide Route, primarily solo, with a detour to do the CO BDR. I would meet up with the family late in July in Missoula after completing the CDR and we would drive home together in early August. This was by far the longest trip of its kind I had ever attempted, let alone by myself.

Day 1 – Albuquerque, NM to Las Cruces, NM – 225 miles

The journey started with an uneventful drive down I-25 to Las Cruces, NM and a stay at what I assumed would be the last motel for a while. I picked up a dozen green chile cheese tamales at Roberto's and put them in the fridge for later. Had a grilled cheese and a couple beers at Picacho Peak Brewery, and called it a night.

Day 2 – Las Cruces to Silver City – 275 miles

Today began the CDR in earnest. Drove west on I-10 past Deming. Headed south through Hatchita, between the Big Hatchet Mountains and the Little Hatchet Mountains, to the Border Crossing at Antelope Wells, which was closed. This is the “official start” of the CDR.

The current town of Hatchita is actually “New Hatchita” and was formed in the early 1900s when the railroad came through. The original settlement of Hatchita was a mining town several miles away, now known as “Old Hatchita.” It was abandoned and became a ghost town when silver prices plummeted in the 1920s. In the 1970s, a retired New York businessman came west and built a church, Saint Catherine of Sienna, out of the old high school building. The church remains but is now abandoned due to declining population.

Just a few miles north of the border crossing is a sign-in book for CDT hikers. The last entry was 9 days earlier, on June 18, and the penultimate was 10 days before that, on June 8. By this time of year, it’s already getting too hot to start a northbound trek.

Between Antelope Wells and I-10 is the first Divide crossing, at only 4,520 feet elevation.

I retraced route back to I-10 and headed north towards Silver City on the first dirt roads of the trip. This section is pretty remote ranch roads until you get to NM 90 which takes you into Silver City. No sooner had I hit the pavement on NM 90, the skies opened up with a good New Mexico monsoon.

I stopped in Silver City at the Little Toad Creek Brewery to wait out the rain. The original plan was to continue past Silver and camp somewhere in the Gila National Forest. After a sandwich and a beer or three, the rain was still coming down. Ambition to drive around in the mud looking for a camp was gone, and I got a room at the historic Murray Hotel , just up the street from the brewpub. Two days in and two hotels, not an auspicious start!

 

[velo47]

I guess I should fill you in on some of the details. I’m traveling in our ’16 Sportsmobile Sprinter. It’s a low-top with a canvas pop-top. It’s on KO2s and it’s 4wd with low range but no lockers. The suspension has been upgraded, with a front swaybar disconnect, it’s lifted, fully skidplated with rocker guards (thanks VanCompass), and has a 12k winch & bumper (thanks Roambuilt). I carry a hi-lift (just in case), maxttrax (4), and an electric chainsaw (again, Just in case). We also have an onboard air compressor (more on that later).

Day 3 – Silver City, NM to El Malpais National Monument – 270 miles

This day covered a good part of NM, through the Gila National Forest to the flat dry (usually) ranch lands south of Grants, NM. I headed east out of Silver City, past the ginormous Santa Rita copper mine and into the San Lorenzo valley.

There used to be a town where the mine is now. Santa Rita de Cobre was established at the beginning of the 19th century. In the early 20th century, the underground copper mines played out and the operations were converted to an open pit mine. The mine soon became the largest open pit copper mine in the world! By the 1950s, Kennecott owned both the mine and the town, and with the pit completely surrounding the town, the entire town was sacrificed to the mining operation, which is now about 1 ¾ miles across and over 1,300 feet deep.

Then north a ways up the valley, and then northeast on dirt into the Gila National Forest.

If I had continued up the San Lorenzo valley I’d get to the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. There was a big wildfire, the Johnson fire, burning just west of the cliff dwellings and the monument was partially closed, so I didn’t detour over there. It was cloudy and drizzly all day, and with the cloud cover and winds out of the east, I didn’t even see any smoke from the fire. Did see a group of javelina, but they split before I could get any pics.

North of where the route crosses NM 12, I saw one, and then another, mountain biker going the opposite direction, with their serious faces on. Shortly after there was another rider stopped on the side of the trail. Robert Bigelow-Rubin from Chicago was in, he guessed, about 7th place in the 2021 Tour Divide, a self-supported mountain bike race from the Canada border to the Mexico border down the Continental Divide. He said New Mexico was the hardest section of the whole race, because of the terrain, mud, and, especially, the long distances between re-supplies. With that, he gladly took a big cured salami from me, and in exchange gave me a sticker from the messenger company he works for. The race leader, he informed me, had already finished, in under 15 days! Robert, it turns out, ended up sixth, in under 19 days.

Mid-afternoon I reached Pie Town, NM, a favorite stop for CDT hikers. There is a hostel there known as the Toaster House where hikers can stay, at no charge. The owner, Nita, no longer lives at the house, but uses donations (and I’m sure her own funds) to maintain the property and stock the fridge. How nice is that?

Got some green chile apple pie at Pie Town Pies, even though the sign on the door said they had run out of pies!

From Pie Town to El Malpais National Monument , the route follows York Ranch Road, a dirt road which turns to a muddy quagmire when it rains. Robert had told me that it took them over a day just to traverse this 30 mile long section through the mud on their bikes. Luckily, one of the ranchers saw them out there and let them stay at his ranch house overnight. After advice from one of the ladies at the pie shop that not even locals were venturing out there unless absolutely necessary, I tucked tail and took a paved detour through Quemado, NM to El Malpais. I camped at Joe Skeen campground just south of the monument and it rained off and on all night.

 

[velo47]

Day 4 – El Malpais National Monument to Abiquiu, NM – 250 miles

The day started out drizzly with forecasts for the rain to stop by 8:00 AM. Of course, it didn’t stop until late afternoon.
I headed to Grants and bought some snack (Hostess cupcakes, cheese sticks, salamis) to hand out to the mountain bike racers. I learned in my years of racing road bikes that nothing says “way to go” like a Hostess cupcake! (best racer response: “H*LL YES I want a cupcake!”)

I started up Mount Taylor on NM 547, which quickly turns to dirt (mud). Coming around a bend, I almost ran into a downed tree, and thought “great, a chance to use the new chainsaw!” Further inspection though showed that the tree had broken when it fell, and with only a quick cut with the Sven Saw it could be dragged out of the way. Bummer. The chain saw never did get used on this trip, but I was glad to have it and figure it’s kinda like having a winch…

Once off Mt. Taylor, the route turns northeast and goes across a good bit of dry (usually) range land, a mix of private, public, and Native American land. I had driven almost the identical route on the NM BDR last year and dreaded what kind of mud I would encounter. Not far into this section, I came across a long flooded section and got out to scout the situation. The water in the tire tracks was not deep, maybe 10-12 inches, but a 3 foot long stick sunk all the way into the mud beneath. With no way around, caution reigned and I turned around and detoured on pavement through Pueblo Pintado and Torreon to Cuba, NM.

I had wanted to visit Guadalupe Ruins, about 30 miles ENE of where I turned around, but that will have to wait until another time. Guadalupe Ruins are the remains of the easternmost Chacoan settlement, which consisted of at least 39 rooms and 7 semi-underground kivas. It is thought to have been built sometime between 900-1100 AD during the establishment of a trade route between the Chacoan hub in the San Juan Basin and the pueblos on the Rio Grande. There is evidence that it was abandoned by the Chacoans and then reoccupied by the Mesa Verde peoples in the late 1200s. It appears they remodeled much of the settlement and built a new kiva at the site in their own style.

From Cuba, the route turns east into the Jemez Mountains. Just outside the northern boundary of the Valles Caldera National Preserve , Forest Road 315 and then 144 were the most difficult thus far, rutted and steep in places, and then miles of imbedded bedrock blocks that made for very slow going albeit through some amazing scenery. Then the road eases and drops off the top and into a nice valley that leads to Abiquiu, NM (former home to artist Georgia O’Keeffe).



Just short of Abiquiu, I spied a group of vehicles camped by a small corral. It was group from Expedition Portal doing the CDR, who had started the week before me. I had conversed with one member, Greg, about possibly meeting up somewhere along the route, but didn’t think it would be so soon. I also knew Joe and Sherry from a Bill Burke offroad class we took together a few years ago at Anza Borrego. Everyone made me feel so welcome (once they were sure I wasn’t there to chase them off their camping spot) that I decided to finish up the NM leg of my trip with them.

Day 5 – Abiquiu, NM to Hopewell Ridge, NM – 75 miles

Today started out in a very relaxed fashion, with a trip to Bode's Store in Abiquiu to fuel up and wait for another member of the group who was joining us there. Bode’s is the place in the area to get groceries, green chile cheeseburgers, fuel, camping supplies, gourmet foods, and farm supplies.

We then visited the old church plaza at Santo Tomas el Apostol church, with the old El Piñon Theater right next door. The church was built in 1773 but burned down in 1867. It was rebuilt, and in 1935 was replaced with the current church.

Then off the visit the Penitente Morada south of the plaza. Many small communities were served by traveling priests who might only visit the village once a year. The Penitentes evolved as a secretive society of resident Catholic Church men who historically dedicated themselves to community service and provided religious services when a priest was not available. They practiced, and still do today in many northern New Mexico villages, in the spirit of penance and the Passion of Christ. The Morada in Abiquiu was originally built in the 1700s and has recently been restored.

Next was Dar al-Islam, built in 1981 as the first planned Islamic community in the United States. It never attained that goal, but continues as a mosque and education center.

On to El Rito for lunch at El Farolito, which was closed. So, lunch was a picnic on the side of the road. Then we turned north into the Tusas Mountains. One of the vehicles had mechanical problems and had to abandon the journey, and two others stayed back to help. The ranger at the El Rito Forest Service was very helpful dealing with the broken-down vehicle.

We remaining vehicles continued on and found a campsite on Hopewell Ridge right on the Continental Divide Trail (the hiking trail). Our campsite was spied on by one southbound CDT hiker and one mule deer doe, but neither came in close enough to talk. The other two vehicles got in late and spent the night at the Hopewell Lake campground.

 

[velo47]

Day 6 – Hopewell Ridge, NM to Chama, NM – 80 miles

My wife, much to her consternation, inadvertently named our van. When I got home from a hunting trip in Wyoming last year looking like this...

She exclaimed “What a Pig Pen!” And the name stuck. He does, after all, usually trundle around in a cloud of dust. I’ve latched onto the Pig Pen persona, and he appears in all sorts of unexpected places now.

This morning we started off down the ridge to Hopewell Lake to meet the other members of our group. Then we headed off towards the Colorado border.

Up into the grasslands west of San Antonio Mountain.

Then we turned west and skirted to Cruces Basin Wilderness and had a quick lunch with a bunch of mosquitoes at Lagunitas Lake. Up onto the Brazos Ridge and into Colorado.

We crossed the narrow gauge railroad tracks of the Cumbres & Toltec scenic railroad, which runs from Chama, NM to Antonito, CO. It was originally part of the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad, but the line has been owned by the states of Colorado and New Mexico since 1970. The track was laid in 1880, and narrow gauge was used instead of the standard gauge because it made tighter turns possible, a huge benefit in the high mountains. In 1968, the working rail line was abandoned, and in 1971 the Scenic Railroad was formed. In 1973, the railroad was designated a National Historic Landmark.

We didn’t see a train, though, until we got to Chama.

Just north of the border is Highway 17. We aired up and went over Cumbres pass, back into New Mexico to Chama for gas and supplies. Several of us stayed overnight in Chama and had dinner at Local, a nice place with good food and beer.

 

[velo47]

Day 7 – Chama, NM to Chaco National Historic Park– 190 miles

Today, the CDR group continued north into Colorado, and I turned west to meet up with my CO BDR group. I did not follow the CDR through Colorado. Rather, I drove the BDR route, which goes from Four Corners to the Wyoming border above Steamboat Springs. In the section above Steamboat, it unites with the CDR, and I would be back on track to finish the CDR. The drive was mostly pavement from Chama, through Dulce and the Jicarilla Reservation to Bloomfield, NM. There I took a short detour to Aztec, NM to see the Aztec Ruins National Monument.

The buildings that comprise Aztec ruins were built about 1,000 years ago near the Animas River, which supplied them with irrigation and drinking water all year-round. The community thrived for over 200 years, and a large complex of buildings and kivas were built. The great house of the West Ruin has over 400 interconnected rooms on three stories, as well as several large and small kivas. Building appears to have stopped around 1200 AD, and the inhabitants abandoned the pueblo by 1300 AD.

After Aztec, I continued on to Chaco Canyon National Historic Park, where I met up with John, one of my BDR travel-mates.

We took a quick tour of Chaco, as it fairly late in the afternoon and threatening rain.

Chaco is a huge complex of buildings dating back to the 800s. The population thrived there for over 300 years. The several great houses were built using masonry techniques not seen before in the region. Additionally, they appear to be pre-planned, not simply built and added onto as necessary. The great houses are oriented to solar, lunar, and cardinal directions. They were built in line of sight with each other and contain astronomical markers, communication features, and water facilities.

By 1050, Chaco was the center of San Juan Basin civilization. Chaco appeared to be a meeting place and trading center with significant ceremonial significance. Construction slowed in the 1100s and 1200s, and the sites were abandoned not long thereafter.

We lucked out and got one of the last available campsites for the night, without a reservation!

 

[velo47]

Day 8 – Chaco Culture National Historic Park to Dolores, CO – 250 miles

Today John & I explored the badlands south of Farmington, NM. Well, I explored and John showed me the way. It’s kinda embarrassing when someone from another state shows you cool things in your own backyard.

We left Chaco and headed towards the Valley of Dreams. We parked and walked in about 2-2.5 miles. On the way, we passed the Hoodoos known as the Three Wise Men.

We continued on foot across a large arroyo to an area rich in petrified wood, fossils (I’ve heard) and many amazing geologic formations.

When we returned to the vehicles, we headed towards The Valley of Dreams East. Not far in, though, the track had washed out and there was evidence remaining from someone else’s big bog, including some plastic parts torn from the unfortunate truck. We decided not to continue, as even if we made it through, we would have to return via the same route, and it looked dicier coming the other way. Neither of us wanted to spend the afternoon digging and winching out.

The Valley of Dreams is part of the Ah-shi-sle-pah Wilderness Study Area, administered by the BLM. There are no established trails, and vehicles are prohibited. Water and shade are very scarce, and the terrain varies from easy to treacherous. Those that venture into the badlands, though, are rewarded with views of extraordinary geologic formations, including balanced rocks, hoodoos, and tons of petrified wood. This area and the nearby Bisti Badlands are desolate and foreboding, but well worth exploring.

After our aborted attempt to access Valley of the Dreams East, we continued northward to the Bisti Badlands Wilderness Area. Access to Bisti is easier, with established parking, restrooms, and a shade structure. But, like Ah-shi-sle-pah, there are no established trails or markers once inside the wilderness area, and vehicles are prohibited. We hike another 2-2.5 miles into an area known as the Egg Hatchery.

Once we returned to the vehicles and had a snack, we headed towards the backside of Shiprock. This view of Shiprock is more picturesque than that usually seen by tourists and was well worth the drive.

Shiprock is volcanic plug which rises almost 1,600 feet above the valley floor, with volcanic dikes, or spines radiating outward from it. Known as Tsé Bit’ a’í, or rock with wings, to the Navajo people, it is central to the legend of the deliverance of the Navajo people to the region, and is considered to be sacred ground.

Campsites were getting much more difficult to find, but we finally did locate one above Dolores, CO.

Day 9 – Dolores, CO to Cortez, NM – 40 miles

Today was an off day. Most places were closed for the holiday, but we had a nice breakfast at the Ponderosa and drove down into Cortez. We checked into the Quality Inn (not so quality) and did laundry across the street, where a sign reminded people to remove all change, screws, bolts, and bullets from pockets before putting clothes in the dryer. We met up with a couple of the other guys, Rob and Ardell. Again, only a couple places were open, and we had an early dinner at JFargos, watched the fireworks, and went to bed.

 

[velo47]

Day 10 – Cortez, NM to Alta Lake, CO – 120 miles

Today we start the CO BDR! In the morning, we met up with the other two members of the group, Bill and Patrick. They got in late the night before, and stayed at the Retro Inn and it was very nice.

Bill, Patrick, John and I did the AZ BDR last May, Bill in his Jeep TJ (“Grumpy”), me in the van, and Patrick and John on motos. Bill is from Arizona and is driving his TJ on this trip too, but with a cargo trailer, Patrick is a full-time RVer, John is from Texas, and Rob and Ardell are from the Midwest. John and Patrick are accomplished offroad moto riders, whereas Rob and Ardell are both new to mountain offroad moto riding.

We packed up the bikes and the Jeep (and trailer), parked the other 2 vehicles, and got ready to head out towards Telluride.

The drive to Telluride was a scenic one, in the mountains but not on the high mountain passes that we would see in the next three days. Rob’s bike was running very rich in the high altitude, sometimes barely running. He took it in stride, though and kept a great attitude despite the problems.

It threatened to rain on us the whole day, but all we really got was a few sprinkles.

We deviated from the BDR at one point to take a road that looked more interesting. We ran into a locked gate, though, on what was marked as a public road on both GAIA and OnXmaps. This seems to be happening more and more in the West.

We got to Telluride in the early evening and spent quite a while looking for a camping spot. Finally we drove up to Alta Lake and got the last spot (or kinda a spot…).

Alta Lake is at over 11,000 feet and was to be our first taste of high-altitude camping.

After we set up, the realization hit that no one had gotten groceries! One of the benefits of the van is a fridge and pantry, so we had the pinto beans, tortillas, and the tamales I had picked up in Cruces, and all was well. Everyone crashed for the night except Rob and Patrick, who were working on Rob’s bike until the wee hours.

 

[velo47]

Day 11 – Alta Lake, CO to Animas Forks, CO – 60 miles

When we got to Alta Lake, I noticed a white Ford Sportsmobile that I thought I recognized. Must’ve seen it on the forums, I thought. When we left this morning it was gone. We caught up to it on the road down from Alta Lake, and it ended up being from Albuquerque! The reason I recognized it is we had gone to look at it when the owner had completely redone the canvas top. Small world!

While yesterday began the BDR, today began the high mountain passes. I was pretty nervous, having never driven any of the high passes, let alone in the van. Additionally, it was 4th of July weekend, so traffic would be heavy. I do have to say that everyone, with the exception of one tour driver and one ATV, were very courteous. I had anticipated issues, given the size of the van, but most people thought it was amazing (or amazingly stupid?) to see someone driving their house way up there, and were very nice.

Ophir pass (11,789 feet) was first on the list. When we started up, the motos left us behind, as usual. They can travel much more quickly on the dirt than we can. Right at the edge of the scree slope, we waited for quite a while for downhill traffic to clear. Then we started up the shelf road. It’s very exposed, and loose shale, but not too bad in a 4wd, as long as you don’t look to the right. For the bikes, though, the loose rock was much more difficult, especially for the inexperienced riders. Quite an introduction for them!

When we got to Hwy 550, Bill & I went into Silverton to get groceries, and the bikes headed over Red Mountain Pass (11,100 feet, paved) to start up Corkscrew Gulch. On the way back to Corkscrew, we took a little detour off the highway at Idarado mine, a fun little diversion.


Then it was up Corkscrew Pass (12,244 feet). Part way up, the motos decided that the less experienced riders would return down to Silverton, and then meet us at Animas Forks. Rob’s bike was still having issues and there was no need to overload them on the first day in the mountains and have someone get hurt because of fatigue.

On to Hurricane Pass (12,730 feet).

Just over the summit of Hurricane pass is a spectacular view of Lake Como (not the one in Italy, or Montana). Pictures do not do it justice!

Then to California Pass (12,960 feet).

Between the summits of these three passes, you don’t really lose a lot of altitude, so this section went a little quicker than I had expected.

The four motos met us at the big mill above Animas Forks.

We rode down together and found a campsite at Animas Forks. Even though we had dropped down from the high passes, we were still over 11,000 feet. Only 60 miles, but everyone was beat!

 

[HeartofAmerica]

Awesome trip, makes me jealous and would definitely like to do that one day!

 

[velo47]

Day 12 – Animas Forks, CO to Gunnison, CO – 110 miles

We got a late start today because Rob’s bike wouldn’t start. We toured the buildings at Animas Forks, and then headed up Cinnamon pass (12,640 feet). Cinnamon, although exposed in a few places, was not as difficult a drive as those the prior day.

Going down, I did get another chance to try out the skidplates, though.


Once off of Cinnamon Pass, the road goes down the valley to Lake City.

We stopped and had a great late lunch at Southern Vittles, and made the decision that we were never going to make it to Buena Vista today. So, we decided to detour to Gunnison to get a soft bed and a shower.

So, over Slumgullion Pass (11,530 feet, paved). If you look up slumgullion, the definition is a cheap or insubstantial stew… There must be some other story behind this… And here it is - the pass was named after the earthflow of the same name whose yellowish dirt reminded people of slumgullion. Not the stew, but rather as the term was used in mining, the muddy clay left in the bottom of a sluice box. The earthflow is really a slump or slow moving landslide which started about 700 years ago and is about 4 miles long and almost half a mile wide. It long ago dammed the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River and formed Lake San Cristobal, where Lake City now sits. A second earthflow started about 300 years ago atop the old one and still moves downstream about 20 feet per year!

We turned off the pavement at the top of the pass and continued over Los Pinos Pass (10,541 feet), which didn’t even feel like a pass after all the others. Then on to Highway 114, and into Gunnison. Stayed at the Inn at Tomichi Village, and had burgers and beers at the Powerstop, where it was “flip for a beer” night. I called heads and got a free beer!

 

[velo47]

Day 13 – Gunnison, CO to Buena Vista, CO – 95 miles

There he is again!

Today, we headed east out of Gunnison on US 50 to get back to the BDR. Just as we were turning left onto the route, the motos almost got creamed when a couple yahoos decided to pass, on a double yellow, at an intersection, and both the van and the Jeep had our left turn signals on. They must’ve had something really important to get to.

Once back on the BDR, we traversed Waunita Pass (10,311 feet), which again didn’t seem like much of a pass, and headed down into Pitkin. Just after Pitkin, the motos turned off to go over Hancock Pass, the “expert” route, and we continued on towards Cumberland Pass. We would regroup in Buena Vista.

Something we’ve noticed is that the difficulty of the “expert” routes on the BDRs varies greatly. Some seem just like stretches of the regular route, and some are really, really hard.

We crested Cumberland Pass (12,015 feet) and came across a Jeep XJ which had overheated coming up the opposite direction. Bill helped him out a little, and he told us that his wife had not wanted to go up the pass today, that she wanted to stay in town and do laundry. It was obvious that the overheating had not improved her attitude at all. They left and we took a few pictures, noticed the rain clouds moving in, and quickly headed down into Tin Cup.

The storm never did materialize, and we continued on to the pavement and aired up. My ARB compressor had a difficult time, and finally overheated and shut off before I got fully aired up. But I got enough air in and we headed up Cottonwood Pass (12,126 feet, paved). At the top, we met a couple who noticed the BDR stickers on the van and had a good discussion with them. They both ride dual sports and said Hancock was one of the toughest rides they had done. Hmm…

It was an easy drive into Buena Vista, where we were surprised not to find the motos waiting for us. Hancock Pass was much more slow and difficult than they had expected, especially for the inexperienced riders. By the time they got to BV, it was close to dark, and they were all pretty spent. Perhaps a motel was in order…or not. Not a single room available in BV or any town nearby.

We headed to some BLM and set up camp in the first place we could find.

 

[velo47]

Day 14 – Buena Vista, CO to Ivanhoe Lake, CO – 100 miles

We left Buena Vista this morning and headed northeast through an OHV area (this is the area where we camped). Some of the trails in the area are limited to vehicles less than 50” wide, but the BDR travels on the Lenhardy Cutoff which is open to all vehicles. Still, the predominant users are ATVs and motos, so the trails are narrow and twisty…and FUN!

[youtube]
After the OHV area, the route travels northeast to a short stint on US 285, and then back onto dirt and up towards and over Weston Pass (11,921 feet).

Down to US 24 and into Leadville for groceries and fuel. Back out to US 24 and a short jaunt by Turquoise Lake.

Then up Hagerman Pass (11,925 feet). Hagerman is very mild at the bottom. A few miles from the top it turns into a rock garden of imbedded baby heads, which, though not technically difficult, made for some very slow going.

We let pass a Toyota Tundra who we were holding up. We would see him again, stuck for a little while in the hardest section of the road. He aired down a little, and with the help of a Jeeper who was coming down, got himself out. This worried me a little, but the van went through with no complaints.

[youtube]
[youtube]
There were still a few deep snowbanks near the top.

Down the west side of Hagerman was better, but still slow going. Through a fun water crossing, and we doubled back to Ivanhoe Lake, and found a spot right by the lake. There appeared to be no other campers there, which made us wonder…

 

[velo47]

Day 15 – Ivanhoe Lake, CO to Red Dirt Bridge, CO – 115 miles

This was easily the coldest morning of the entire trip.

The road down from Ivanhoe Lake follows an old railroad grade, and is a pretty easy drive. At Ivanhoe, a railroad tunnel was built in 1891 which essentially goes under Hagerman Pass, and ends just above Turquoise Lake on the Leadville side. It replaced the shorter Hagerman Tunnel, which at over 11,500 feet, was one of the highest tunnels ever built. The new Busk- Ivanhoe Tunnel allowed much easier rail traffic across the Continental Divide.

The tunnel was converted from a rail tunnel to an automobile toll tunnel in 1922, and renamed the Carlton Tunnel. It was abandoned in 1942 and collapsed in 1945. Beginning in 1921, the tunnel was also used to steal divert water from the western slope to the eastern slope. Water could still flow through the rubble, and the tunnel was repaired to a degree after the collapse. It is still used to divert water to this day. The eastern entrance to the tunnel is just above Turquoise Lake, but I missed it on the way up the pass.

We had to divert off the BDR and down Frying Pan Road due to a large wildfire at Sylvan Lake. The diversion took us by Ruedi Reservoir, where we used to sail when I was a kid, and down into Basalt. Onto Highway 82 and then up an over Cottonwood Pass (8,280 feet) to Gypsum, where we rejoined the BDR after getting fuel and supplies. This, obviously, is not the same Cottonwood Pass we traversed a few days ago.

In fact, there are 3 Cottonwood Passes in Colorado! Additionally, there are two Arapaho, Big Horn, Browns, Buffalo, Denver, Grassy, Hoosier, Muddy, Pawnee, Ptarmigan, Spring Creek, Squaw, Storm, Taylor, Narrows, and Windy passes, three Columbine, Red Mountain, San Francisco, Notch, and Yellow Jacket passes, four Gunsight, and Saddle passes, and six Ute passes, just to keep things confusing!

From Gypsum, we traveled north to the Colorado River, where we found a nice camp spot at Red Dirt Bridge. Bill noticed the rear seal on his Jeep was leaking, and changed it before dinner!

Today, the smoke from all the wildfires became really noticeable, and would get thicker throughout the rest of the trip. For this reason, I took fewer photos, as many of the cool vistas were obscured by smoke.


Day 16 – Red Dirt Bridge, CO to Steamboat Springs, CO – 115 miles

We set off in the morning along the Colorado River, with a few diversions here and there. It was an enjoyable easy drive until I got a puncture just past the Radium Recreation Area. We plugged the tire and, once again, the compressor struggled to air it up. We continued a short way and met up with the motos, where Ardell noticed that the tire had a big bulge in the tread, apparently a delamination had occurred. We changed the tire, but not without a couple setbacks, including a failed Hummer H-1 scissor jack and a broken lug nut socket. The rest of the day I was a little nervous about the wheel, as we could not torque the lug nuts down to spec.

At the intersection of Highway 134, we were forced to take a second detour due to wildfire activity. We took 134 to Yampa where we had a good late lunch at the Antlers Café & Bar. The Bearpaw Bakery next door was closing for a couple days and was having a half off sale on everything! Sweet!

We continued on to Stagecoach Reservoir, where we regained the BDR, continued into Steamboat and camped at the KOA so we could shower off! A good pizza dinner at How Ya Doin Pizza topped off the evening.


Day 17 – Steamboat Springs, CO to Steamboat Springs, CO – 235 miles

The guys decided to take a rest day today. John had to work (ugh), he had a zoom call and needed wifi, and everyone was a little tired out. I took the opportunity to drive to Glenwood Springs to get a couple new front tires. I had hoped I would get one more trip out of them, but not so lucky.

I got up early and went to throw out some trash, and it was evident that a bear had made itself a midnight snack, trash everywhere. After taking to John when I got back, the bear had also visited the site next to them, but did no damage there.

It was a quick trip down to I-70 and west through Glenwood Canyon to the Springs, new tires, and back. Didn’t even get a soak at the hot springs.


Day 18 – Steamboat Springs, CO to Rawlins, WY – 150 miles

Today is the last day of the BDR. As we were packing up, we noticed that
Bill’s Jeep was leaking coolant. Bill figured out it was leaking at the heater core, so we made a trip to NAPA and he bypassed it in the parking lot. I think he can fix anything!

The day started out drizzly rainy as we made our way to the Wyoming border. At one point near the border, the route took off on a small two track that was essentially impassible for the bikes. We were discussing where to detour when a logging truck rolled up. The driver was mighty nice, and told us the best route to take, and roared off. Those guys drive fast in those big trucks!

We crossed the border, and came to an intersection where we would split up.

The others returned to Steamboat and ultimately back to Cortez and then Arizona. I continued north to Rawlins.

There I did laundry, had a good chicken fried steak at Buck’s Bar & Grill, and spent the night in a crappy motel.

 

[velo47]

Sorry for the hiatus, I had to go to DC to see my mom.
After I posted day 14, I was re-watching a couple of the videos that Larrie @Luinil Explorations posted that showed their CO BDR trip last September. Watching the Hagerman pass video, I noticed this car and immediately recognized it.

That same car was in the same place when we went over Hagerman in August of this year, almost a year later!

The car was very near the top of the pass, and kind of precariously parked it seemed. It's funny that Bill remembered the car from our trip, and so did Larrie from his. It wasn't in a spot you'd expect, so it stuck in our minds. According to GAIA and OnX, there is no private land inholding or mining claim there.

The car sure didn't look as though it had been there all winter, and didn't look damaged or abandoned, but it seems to be in the exact same place.

So, what do you think? There all year? Just coincidentally in the same place? Mushroom hunter? Pot grow? Who knows?

 

[velo47]

Day 19 – Rawlins, WY to Pinedale, WY – 235 miles

Not him again!

Out of Rawlins, I traveled North on the highway a few miles, and then turned east into BLM checkerboard. The trail loops around back to the west, by and through some sand dunes.

This is dry, rolling open country, perfect for Pronghorn, of which I saw a lot. Back across the highway and by the town of Barsoil and across a huge swath of BLM land towards South Pass City.

The track ranges from well-maintained ranch roads to two-tracks, none of which was too difficult, at least when it was dry. At one point, there was a non-descript marking the crossing of the Pony Express route, which I was on, and the Oregon Trail.

I continued on through South Pass City.

On to Boulder, and then a short stint of pavement into Pinedale. I hadn’t expected to get this far, but the roads were generally good, and traveling alone I find I tend to press on. I really should stop and explore more, it’s not like I’m on a schedule!

I had a good early dinner at the Wind River Brewery in Pinedale, and headed out to find a campsite. After checking several campgrounds at Fremont Lake and Half Moon Lake (all full), I returned to Pinedale and headed north into the BLM for a dispersed site. The evening was very smoky, resulting in a stunning, although somewhat disconcerting, sunset.

 

[velo47]

Day 20 – Pinedale, WY to Mesa Falls, ID – 255 miles

The sun rose this morning to an even smokier sky than last evening. Again, a beautiful sunrise, but one I'd gladly forego in exchange for clear skies. The smoke would continue all day.

Out of Pinedale, the route follows the highway for quite a ways until it turns to Union Pass Road. The terrain changes from desert hills to wooded forest, and crosses the divide at the top of Union Pass.

Along the way is a cabin, built specifically as a shelter for snowmobilers in the area.

I got a kick out the supplies that had been left inside!

Once I neared Grand Teton National Park, all the campgrounds were full, and traffic increased substantially. At the turn into Teton at the North Park Road, traffic was so backed up I decided to go into Jackson and get a burger and a beer.

Big mistake! Traffic into Jackson from the North was at a standstill over a mile from town. There were so many tourists that you couldn’t even walk on the sidewalks! Instead of going back up to Teton, I grumped and grumbled off-route over Teton Pass into Idaho, to Ashton, disappointed that I got off track when I should have just continued on across Grand Teton Park. I'm sure it would've been more scenic and less frustrating in the end.

I got the last spot at a nice tiny campground at Lower Mesa Falls.

 

[velo47]

Somehow I missed a few pics from Day 20. These are in the mountains before I got to Grand Teton.

Northern Wyoming and Montana are officially grizzly country.

 

[velo47]

Day 21 – Lower Mesa Falls, ID to Missoula, MT – 395 miles

Last one, I promise.

Intel from another forum member was that the route from Mesa Falls to Island Park terminates in an OHV area where full-size vehicles are prohibited. Not wanting to backtrack and find a way out, I stuck to the highway to north of Island Park, where I regained the route by Henry’s Lake.

Over Red Rock Pass and into Montana, then into Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. Living up to its billing, I saw deer, pronghorn, young sandhill cranes, and lots of waterfowl. The refuge even includes a trumpeter swan nesting area, which unfortunately was devoid of swans at the time!

The route then heads off into ranchland, past Lima (like the bean) Reservoir and into the town of Lima. Here I got cell service and received a text sent from Missoula the prior night. The inlaws were in town after a fishing trip to Fort Peck Reservoir with a mess of walleye, and having a fish-fry. I regretfully texted back that I wouldn’t make it, as I was still a good long way from Missoula.

The route heads west of I-15 at Lima through Deadwood Gulch, Caboose Canyon, Four Eyes Canyon, and Pileup Canyon before spitting out into the wide open grasslands. The roads are good, and wide, and in no time I reached Bannack State Park. Then through Polaris and back up into the mountains on the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway which twists and turns its way north to Wise River. I had wanted to stop at the Polar Bar in Polaris, but it’s been closed for years.

It was exceptionally smoky at Wise River, and there was a big fire camp there. It seemed the whole northwest must be burning.

At Wise River, the route turns up towards Fleecer Ridge. Again, advice from a forum member told me not to attempt this section in the van. Although the road looks benign in video, heading up a grassy hillside, it is in fact a 28-32% grade! I found a video of a guy trying to ride up it on a moto, over and over, and that was enough to convince to skip it.

I got to I-15 south of Butte on the CDR easy bypass along the Big Hole River and it was still early afternoon. I made a call to Missoula. Maybe I could make the fish fry after all! Aired up the tires, once the compressor decided to start compressing again, and hotshoed it into Missoula.

What a long day, but it was worth it for great food, beer, and company! Tomorrow will be a rest day!

Day 22 – Missoula, MT

Today was spent relaxing in Missoula, doing laundry, and having beers at Cranky Sam’s with Biga pizza.

 

[velo47]

Day 23 – Missoula, MT to Granite Butte, MT – 235 miles

As nice as it was to relax with the kids in Missoula, I knew that I still had a ways to go. Besides, I’d be back in Missoula soon to meet up with the rest of the family for their vacation. I took I-15 to Butte and got back on the route.

I headed up through the Helena National Forest and the Boulder Mountains. I took a detour to Helena for a beer at Blackfoot River Brewing, and then headed North, by the old Empire Mill site.

Then up Marsh Creek Road and back into the National Forest. I found a nice dispersed camp site along the creek. Got a little drizzle of rain but not much. Someone had left a bunch of firewood, but because of burn ban, there would be no campfire tonight.

Someone must’ve been really bored sitting in camp!

This was a high mileage day but not really that much offroad, because of all the highway miles from Missoula to get back on course.

 

[Sparksalot]

Day 20 – Pinedale, WY to Mesa Falls, ID – 255 miles

The sun rose this morning to an even smokier sky than last evening. Again, a beautiful sunrise, but one I'd gladly forego in exchange for clear skies. The smoke would continue all day.

Out of Pinedale, the route follows the highway for quite a ways until it turns to Union Pass Road. The terrain changes from desert hills to wooded forest, and crosses the divide at the top of Union Pass.

Along the way is a cabin, built specifically as a shelter for snowmobilers in the area.

I got a kick out the supplies that had been left inside!

Once I neared Grand Teton National Park, all the campgrounds were full, and traffic increased substantially. At the turn into Teton at the North Park Road, traffic was so backed up I decided to go into Jackson and get a burger and a beer.

Big mistake! Traffic into Jackson from the North was at a standstill over a mile from town. There were so many tourists that you couldn’t even walk on the sidewalks! Instead of going back up to Teton, I grumped and grumbled off-route over Teton Pass into Idaho, to Ashton, disappointed that I got off track when I should have just continued on across Grand Teton Park. I'm sure it would've been more scenic and less frustrating in the end.

I got the last spot at a nice tiny campground at Lower Mesa Falls.

How did you get from Pinedale to Dubois? I’m guessing it was mostly dirt, but curious about the route.