Change wheels?

[Lil Bear]

I don't know enough about the whole unsprung rational weight mass etc...when it comes to wheels. But what I want to know, is, is there a great enough reason to buy new wheels over the one on my truck. Stock 20 inch Nissan titan XD wheel. I was thinking of going with an 18in wheel. Probably a Method wheel with the new simulated bead lock design. I know there is some weight difference but is it really enough to justify purchasing new wheels? Tires are a must so either way I will get new tires. The other factor to this equation is the tire I am currently running is basically a 34in(275/65R20). I want to go to a 35in(Cooper STT Pro) which I can't find in the same width as what I have now. With that being said I would have to run spacers to clear. Just something else to think about.

 

[PonoAdventures]

I don't know enough about the whole unsprung rational weight mass etc...when it comes to wheels. But what I want to know, is, is there a great enough reason to buy new wheels over the one on my truck. Stock 20 inch Nissan titan XD wheel. I was thinking of going with an 18in wheel. Probably a Method wheel with the new simulated bead lock design. I know there is some weight difference but is it really enough to justify purchasing new wheels? Tires are a must so either way I will get new tires. The other factor to this equation is the tire I am currently running is basically a 34in(275/65R20). I want to go to a 35in(Cooper STT Pro) which I can't find in the same width as what I have now. With that being said I would have to run spacers to clear. Just something else to think about.

Depends on the type of driving you do. If you are doing some moderate off roading, I would say it’s worth it to drop the 2” of wheel and gain 2” of tire for airing down and such.

 

[Lil Bear]

Depends on the type of driving you do. If you are doing some moderate off roading, I would say it’s worth it to drop the 2” of wheel and gain 2” of tire for airing down and such.

Yeah I will be off roading some. Not rock crawling or anything. General overlanding basically I reckon! lol

 

[RoarinRow]

I would also considering looking at upgrading brake pads and/or rotors, depending on the new extra weight of the tires and rims. You'd want to be sure you have the same or better stopping power as with the stock setup.

 

[grubworm]

i agree with @PonoAdventures ...my tundra has 20" rims and i leveled the truck and went with taller tires, but i really would like to have more sidewall...i was considering 18" or maybe even 16" rims down the road...
i doubt the ride would be a lot different and i rarely air down, but i do like the look of a smaller rim and larger sidewall
a lot of the folk in certain areas here have the cars with giant rims, so as they go bigger on rims, i naturally want to go smaller

 

[Alanymarce]

I agree with the advice so far. I think it makes sense to increase sidewall, however I would stay away from an overall increase in rolling diameter (or keep it to one size over standard). Adding spacers for overlanding (as opposed to rock crawling) is not a good idea in my view - changes the stresses on everything, and can also create clearance problems.

If you're racing (on a racetrack) then you don't care about the unsprung weight, really, but you want everything to be as light as possible. If you're overlanding you want to keep the unsprung weight down for a comfortable ride. If you're rock crawling you'll be going slowly enough that ride doesn't matter.

 

[smritte]

If you downsize your rim, make sure your caliper still clears. It would suck to get nice tires and rims just to have the two hit. When you measure, make sure your brake pads are close to new thickness. I have had a few vehicles I couldn't put the rim back on after replacing the brakes.

 

[Nivar3]

In my opinion, the main reason for upgrading the wheels, aside from pure aesthetics, would be to change the offset in order to fit bigger tires. The Methods should be lighter than the factory wheels, so that’s a good thing. Downsizing to an 18” wheel from a 20” wheel also shouldn’t be an issue. The Titan comes with 18” wheels if you don’t upgrade to the 20’s from factory; in other words the 18’s should clear the brakes without a problem. I’d be more worried about clearing the brakes if you were downsizing to a 17” or smaller.

Spacers are definitely cheaper than new wheels. But if you have the budget, new wheels are the way to go. Spacers introduce another point of weakness or failure.

 

[Billiebob]

I don't know enough about the whole unsprung rational weight mass etc...when it comes to wheels. But what I want to know, is, is there a great enough reason to buy new wheels over the one on my truck. Stock 20 inch Nissan titan XD wheel. I was thinking of going with an 18in wheel. Probably a Method wheel with the new simulated bead lock design. I know there is some weight difference but is it really enough to justify purchasing new wheels? Tires are a must so either way I will get new tires. The other factor to this equation is the tire I am currently running is basically a 34in(275/65R20). I want to go to a 35in(Cooper STT Pro) which I can't find in the same width as what I have now. With that being said I would have to run spacers to clear. Just something else to think about.

kind of opposites here, on one hand trduce unsprung weight.... Wheels.... then add unsprung weight..... 35s.... play it right maybe no change.
I'd agree with some of the other comments, increased sidewall is wonderful off road. As is reducing unspeung weight. Nor sure there are any advantages to 35s.
I'm finding more and more guys going the smaller skinnier tire to increase ride comfort. It is rare to find a guy who actually gets more capability from a bigger tire... unless it is a trail rig.. on a trailer.

grubworm kinda nailed it

 

[Billiebob]

In my opinion, the main reason for upgrading the wheels, aside from pure aesthetics, would be to change the offset in order to fit bigger tires.

100% ..... unless the goal is to run skinnier tires and make the whole rig skinnier. Which has been my goal for 10 years, My TJR is now skinnier than the base TJ SE, I am looking for 2" SE Flares to replace the 4" TJR Flares..... will post a pic when done.

ps the ride on skinny 31s, 7.50R16s, is light years better, smoother than the ride on 33x10.50s.... with zero loss in capability,,,, huge increase in driveability in the winter, standing water, that row of slush on the center line in the winter.... skinny tires go theu with zero drama.

Go skinny and love it.

 

[Brewbud]

I am downsizing from 20s to 17s on my 2020 Cummins. It makes for a better ride both on road and off. Much better floatation when aired down too. 17x9 Racelines with 37" tires. I have a similar combo on my 2007 and it has been great. Night and day difference over stock. Remember, as you move up in tire size you will need to run a lower pressure.

 

[Lil Bear]

100% ..... unless the goal is to run skinnier tires and make the whole rig skinnier. Which has been my goal for 10 years, My TJR is now skinnier than the base TJ SE, I am looking for 2" SE Flares to replace the 4" TJR Flares..... will post a pic when done.

ps the ride on skinny 31s, 7.50R16s, is light years better, smoother than the ride on 33x10.50s.... with zero loss in capability,,,, huge increase in driveability in the winter, standing water, that row of slush on the center line in the winter.... skinny tires go theu with zero drama.

Go skinny and love it.

I've wondered if it would really make that(35's or 37's) much of a difference on the trail. I like the tires I have now I just want them to be more aggressive. My rig is wide enough as it is, I don't need it to get any thicker lol!!

 

[USStrongman]

My $0.02.

Not knowing what rotors/calipers are on your rig, if all things were equal, there are FAR more options in 17" tires and they are less expensive compared to 18's and 20's due to the overall competition. I run the Kenda Klever 35/10.5/17", essentially a 10.5" wide 34" tire instead of the typical 12.5" wide 35" tire common to msot JKU's. Its terrific in everything I have thrown at it and I picked them up at WallyWorld for less than $150 apiece. I have a comparatively lighter weight 34" tire and AEV Salta combination at 84lbs compared to a BFG KO2 35/70/17 and Salta combo at roughly 96lbs and it is narrower and fits within my fenders. I remain legal in all states (I run mudflaps too) and I have a narrower contact patch which is helpful in my dirt, dust, snow and ice trails I run normally.

Braking for me is fine, but when fully loaded, could be improved. I am changing out to a bigger rotor and caliper kit for front and rear after the holidays. My OEM wheels were 17's so clearance was not an issue when I changed wheels. The kit I am buying will also fit with my AEV wheels. For you however, I am not certain you can run a 17, I just dont know the Nissan game at all. Spacers are not the best idea. Finding the right rim with the proper backspacing and offset is. Proper wheel backspacing puts the wheel/tire in or out appropriate to your needs.

What Is Wheel Offset? | Custom Offsets

Wheel Offset and Backspacing Explained. Find out how to measure your wheels for the perfect fitment on your ride

www.customwheeloffset.com

Unsprung weight (axles, wheels and tires) has a direct effect on acceleration, braking and overall wear and tear on drivetrain components. Lighter is better, but heavier can be overcome, its just a matter of how you want to spend your money.

IMO, the wheels you describe are not a terrific idea. Simulated anything serves no other purpose than bling bling. Bling wont get you out of the mud, out of a ditch, over rocks and tree stumps. There is nothing wrong with a great looking wheel, but simulated serves no purpose in this environment.

 

[smritte]

I've wondered if it would really make that(35's or 37's) much of a difference on the trail. I like the tires I have now I just want them to be more aggressive. My rig is wide enough as it is, I don't need it to get any thicker lol!!

The taller the tire the longer the footprint. Wider tires have an advantage in soft but loose it in rocky environments, they tend to bridge not form around things. Taller tires directly effect your final drive ratio which in turn effects your torque and braking abilities. The taller tires put more leverage against the caliper causing a greater amount of heat to be generated when braking. Your engine is also tuned to the factory drive ratio. When you change this, you effect your power band. How bad it is depends on what motor/trans you run. Going from a 33" to a 35" on my cruiser made a big enough difference that I went to a harder grabbing brake and will be regearing this winter.

The difference in ground clearance wasn't significant but in some situations you take all you can get. They look cooler too.

 

[Lil Bear]

My $0.02.

Not knowing what rotors/calipers are on your rig, if all things were equal, there are FAR more options in 17" tires and they are less expensive compared to 18's and 20's due to the overall competition. I run the Kenda Klever 35/10.5/17", essentially a 10.5" wide 34" tire instead of the typical 12.5" wide 35" tire common to msot JKU's. Its terrific in everything I have thrown at it and I picked them up at WallyWorld for less than $150 apiece. I have a comparatively lighter weight 34" tire and AEV Salta combination at 84lbs compared to a BFG KO2 35/70/17 and Salta combo at roughly 96lbs and it is narrower and fits within my fenders. I remain legal in all states (I run mudflaps too) and I have a narrower contact patch which is helpful in my dirt, dust, snow and ice trails I run normally.

Braking for me is fine, but when fully loaded, could be improved. I am changing out to a bigger rotor and caliper kit for front and rear after the holidays. My OEM wheels were 17's so clearance was not an issue when I changed wheels. The kit I am buying will also fit with my AEV wheels. For you however, I am not certain you can run a 17, I just dont know the Nissan game at all. Spacers are not the best idea. Finding the right rim with the proper backspacing and offset is. Proper wheel backspacing puts the wheel/tire in or out appropriate to your needs.

What Is Wheel Offset? | Custom Offsets

Wheel Offset and Backspacing Explained. Find out how to measure your wheels for the perfect fitment on your ride

www.customwheeloffset.com

Unsprung weight (axles, wheels and tires) has a direct effect on acceleration, braking and overall wear and tear on drivetrain components. Lighter is better, but heavier can be overcome, its just a matter of how you want to spend your money.

IMO, the wheels you describe are not a terrific idea. Simulated anything serves no other purpose than bling bling. Bling wont get you out of the mud, out of a ditch, over rocks and tree stumps. There is nothing wrong with a great looking wheel, but simulated serves no purpose in this environment.

18's is the lowest I can go on wheel size for my titan. I think the gas version could go to 17's. Funny you mention the Kenda Klevers, those are one of the tires I have went back and forth with wanting but just didn't want a wider tire. As for the wheels, they are supposed to have a design that helps keep your bead in place similar to a regular bead lock except it's on the inner part of the wheel. Has like a triple bead along the inner lip. I can't justify spending the money on actual bead locks when one they aren't supposed to be technically DOT and two I use my rig as a daily driver. Bead locks serve their purpose but I just don't think I will need the actual multi piece ones is all.

 

[Outdoordog]

 

[MidOH]

Cooper offers a 295/75r18 that's only 12" wide. If that won't fit on a Titan with 18x9" Method wheels with appropriate backspacing to keep the tires tucked in, then I'd trade the truck in for one that can. Those are about the best tires you can find for this. Good choice.

Cooper® Discoverer® STT PRO™: Truck Tire | Cooper Tire

Discoverer® STT Pro™ lets you go where others won’t. With Rock Climber Sidewall™ Technology helps conquer the toughest obstacles. Stone Armor™ Technology helps defend against sharp rocks and debris. Uniquely formulated rubber compound for outstanding performance in wet and dry off-road conditions.

us.coopertire.com

I'd recommend avoiding the Method Wheels with fake beadlocks. The HD wheels without the beadlocks are nicer. Those bolts get rotton looking after a while.

05-22 F250 & F350 Method 18x9" 701 HD - Matte Black (18mm Offset) MR70189087518H

www.stage3motorsports.com

Avoid spacers, get proper backspaced wheels only. I'm sure that someone at the Titan forums has tucked in 35's.

 

[MidOH]

I've wondered if it would really make that(35's or 37's) much of a difference on the trail. I like the tires I have now I just want them to be more aggressive. My rig is wide enough as it is, I don't need it to get any thicker lol!!

35" is as big as you can usually go before the vehicle becomes compromised. But yes, 37's are noticeably better off road. 38's, even more so. It's not just one inch. 38's are generally designed for off road and rule at it. 37's are generally a compromise between off and on road performance. 35's often don't compromise on road behavior at all. Devils in the details.

Heck, on my Ford F250, 35's fit stock. 37's require a mild lift, and the spare won't fit in the OEM location.