Thanks! Your thread continues to be a great reference!
*Resumes gathering suspension parts*
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...but it's a Subaru Outback?! Build thread.
- Thread starter Wawa Skittletits
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*Resumes gathering suspension parts*
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I got a 2017 last year, planning to do almost the exact same things that you did. Looks like I'll do the brush guard and differential guard first. I actually tapped my rear differential half a year after I got it and had to get it warranty serviced. So good on you for getting the armor.
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Yeah I ordered armor at the same time as the original lift. If you’re planning on going with Primitive for armor I’d recommend saving up for all of it and buy it together. Mine as well take advantage of the discount.
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Aloha @Wawa Skittletits and @WhatTheZo. Sorry to butt in, but would you please be willing to share the answers with me to the questions asked that were DM'd? I don't know what I'm asking and reading your thread about offset and wheel size are helpful for learning. Also, my Outback is my DD in Los Angeles with similar driving habits.
I drive a 2015 Outback 2.5i Limited
18" OEM Wheelset
2" Anderson Design Fabrications lift
I'm installing 17" Method Rally 502's next week and am considering 225/65r17 for either:
- Yokohama Geolander
- BF Goodrich KO2
Any feedback is helpful.
Mahalo!
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Hello @Liana Lehua! Here are the questions I believe you are referring to and my response via DM. I’m glad to help so feel free to ask any questions!
1) Don’t worry about the 7” wide wheels with 245/65’s. There’s an acceptable range for all tire sizes and you won’t have a problem. In fact in some ways it’s better since it isn’t a wide tire the smaller wheel actually rolls the sidewalls in more and exposes the sidewalls to the ground less. Another advantage is that buying a 5th wheel will be cheaper. Are you planning on 5 tire rotations?
2) It’s aesthetics mainly. I’m sure there is a negligible difference in stability but at the same time the angle between the tire and the diff is steeper so obstacles in certain situations may be easier. Spacers are certainly an option and one you can go with at any time so don’t feel like you would have to do it now. I had to go with when I lifted above 2”. I run H&R 1” hub centric spacers with wheel studs. If you go with spacers just don’t go cheap and make sure you torque them to the correct spec and then retorque them when you’re supposed to. Use an actual torque wrench! As far as the trail damage goes... accept and embrace it. Call it character or badges of honor or whatever but know that it’s coming. I have plenty of trail pinstripes and I don’t give them a second thought at this point. It’s proof that it goes more places than just the mall.
3) Skip the aftermarket wheels and buy some plasti dip. They’ll look completely different... I’m partial to black haha. As far as springs go I’d consider looking into Rallitek as well. They have a lower spring rate than King but it’s still higher than OE. Either way you’re going to want more weight in the car all the time. The difference in the spring rate will dictate just how much weight to have a comfortable ride day to day. Before you pull the trigger on springs tell me and I’ll tell you what you can expect and how to speed up the break in process.
Ok let’s be right into it.
1) Don’t worry about the 7” wide wheels with 245/65’s. There’s an acceptable range for all tire sizes and you won’t have a problem. In fact in some ways it’s better since it isn’t a wide tire the smaller wheel actually rolls the sidewalls in more and exposes the sidewalls to the ground less. Another advantage is that buying a 5th wheel will be cheaper. Are you planning on 5 tire rotations?
2) It’s aesthetics mainly. I’m sure there is a negligible difference in stability but at the same time the angle between the tire and the diff is steeper so obstacles in certain situations may be easier. Spacers are certainly an option and one you can go with at any time so don’t feel like you would have to do it now. I had to go with when I lifted above 2”. I run H&R 1” hub centric spacers with wheel studs. If you go with spacers just don’t go cheap and make sure you torque them to the correct spec and then retorque them when you’re supposed to. Use an actual torque wrench! As far as the trail damage goes... accept and embrace it. Call it character or badges of honor or whatever but know that it’s coming. I have plenty of trail pinstripes and I don’t give them a second thought at this point. It’s proof that it goes more places than just the mall.
3) Skip the aftermarket wheels and buy some plasti dip. They’ll look completely different... I’m partial to black haha. As far as springs go I’d consider looking into Rallitek as well. They have a lower spring rate than King but it’s still higher than OE. Either way you’re going to want more weight in the car all the time. The difference in the spring rate will dictate just how much weight to have a comfortable ride day to day. Before you pull the trigger on springs tell me and I’ll tell you what you can expect and how to speed up the break in process.
Pretty much @Wawa Skittletits covered it in his response. Right now I'm running 245/65's on my OEM wheels without a lift and don't really plan on getting aftermarket wheels unless I damage them.
I'm going back to 3" total lift once the parts get here. My personal asthestics speaking, the tires do look kind of wonky pulled after the lift. I'd get spacers if it bugged me enough, but right now it's price prohibited enough for me.
As for trail damage from a wider stance, I figure having tires sticking out is beneficial. Better to have things hit your rubber than your body on the trail. One of the reasons you shouldn't skimp on tires.
I'm also in SoCal and have similar driving patterns. One thing that no one ever mentions is that there is a random chance of getting a slight wobble between 18-22mph after the lift. Some people report it, some people don't. It doesn't occur outside that range. But that's also the range alot of gridlock traffic goes.
Sorry for using your thread for my responses Wawa
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Expedition Master I
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No worries!
I often joke with people who are considering lifting about the ~18 mph shudder because of the fact that nobody talks about it. I explain the details and I also mention how its been a non issue for me.
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I did not. Caster is a train wreck for anything other than a race car but camber wise I’m not even maxed. They have both the original and aftermarket camber bolts installed at the same time correct?
Happened to come across this thread while doing some research and it is nothing short of amazing! (Currently looking at trading in my 16 WRX for a 17 Outback)
Awesome thread great job. We are in the process of building our Team car . So pumped it’s looking so good.
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Thank you!
I'm still using the OE endlinks and they're still attached. Custom QD links in the appropriate length have been on the back burner. You recently lifted it correct? and its a new car correct? I get confused haha. If I had to guess my first one would be the stut mount and more specifically the strut is loose. Your car is too new to have chewed up the actual mount yet.
Yep. My '18 is giving me some issues that I'm trying to iron out with the 3” lift. I'm having an alignment shop look things over.
I love how some people are super resistant on the idea going over 2” citing premature wear, but are fine when people "send it"...
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Expedition Master I
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I agree and I'm always willing to point out that my car still hasn't broken into a thousand pieces. Not yet anyway haha. Ok so I would definitely be looking into a loose strut which unfortunately means the complete strut will have to come out. Theres no access to the strut mount when lifted on spacers.
