...but it's a Subaru Outback?! Build thread.

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morty muerte

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Thank you!

The tow hooks that I use are OE. I keep both the front and rear hooks screwed in all the time anymore and had them powdercoated wrinkle black to go with everything else I've had coated. There seems to be some people who believe you need to spend XXX amount of money on aftermarket tow hooks but I'm not one of them. I actually think it's silly since the car already comes with one and its easy enough to order or otherwise procure a second. I'm also not one for D ring shackles in tow hooks. I don't like them for the function nor do I for the form. I use soft shackles that slip right through the OE tow hook because they're stronger, safer, and MUCH lighter. So much lighter that they float on water and when you own a Subaru you want to shave weight everywhere you can.

The OE wheels and grill were both plasti dipped and were done in place with no prep other than clean and dry. Thats the joy of dip as it'll stick to anything if you apply it correctly. You want to be careful doing the grill in place so you don't get overspray in the radiator. Its pretty easy to remove the bumper so removing the grill is certainly an option. Both the wheels and grill were always going to be temporary but I was impressed at how well the wheels held up. The grill took a beating and I knew that my JDM Legacy grill was going to get painted and cleared for durability reasons.

I hope this helps and feel free to ask any other questions you might have.
This is great info! I'm preparing to do a micro budget overland build with a Subaru and i had no idea about the OE hooks. Its the one item i've been decidng on if its worth working into my budget. Very helpful!

I am confused about the OE plastidip wheels. The wheels in your photos don't look OE to me. Is there a photo i missed? I plan to stick with OE wheels so this is something i've also been considering.

I get my vehicle this week. When i do i might start a build thread. Hopefully i don't bore people with another outback build, but i have done a lot of thinking and research in keeping the price down, so i think it might be useful info to share to those who don't want to spend 40K or more on an adventure vehicle.
 

Wawa Skittletits

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This is great info! I'm preparing to do a micro budget overland build with a Subaru and i had no idea about the OE hooks. Its the one item i've been decidng on if its worth working into my budget. Very helpful!

I am confused about the OE plastidip wheels. The wheels in your photos don't look OE to me. Is there a photo i missed? I plan to stick with OE wheels so this is something i've also been considering.

I get my vehicle this week. When i do i might start a build thread. Hopefully i don't bore people with another outback build, but i have done a lot of thinking and research in keeping the price down, so i think it might be useful info to share to those who don't want to spend 40K or more on an adventure vehicle.
Glad to help Marty! I imagine it’s back on the first page but I dipped my OE wheels when I bought the wagon but when I lifted it I switched wheels/tires almost immediately. I have Enkei RPF1’s now to shed a bunch or weight while still being very strong.

Good luck with your Subaru! Feel free to PM me anytime if you ever have any questions.
 

WhatTheZo

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This is great info! I'm preparing to do a micro budget overland build with a Subaru and i had no idea about the OE hooks.
Yeah I'm guilty of getting d-shackles because they look rugged. Here is a pic of the OEM with a d-shackle. In reality I keep my soft shackle in my recovery bag.IMG_20180225_115745.jpg

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
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PROJECTaroid

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For those of you who don’t follow my instagram I thought I’d share some recent pictures. I went poking around in some new areas of familiar spots and since the gates were open I hit a ‘trail’ that I hadn’t seen in 10+ years. DCNR has since ruined.. I mean repaired this trail but it’s still a nice quiet drive in the woods.

Here’s an upper section of a quite large (110,700 acre-ft) drained reservoir. It’s a neat place for a number of reasons but one is the almost apocalyptic landscape.

View attachment 40726 View attachment 40727

Every fall Pennsyltucky blesses us with some open gates for a couple months. I’d like to see them open year round but I guess I should be thankful they open some at all.

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Nice build. I really like what you have done.
 

morty muerte

Rank II

Enthusiast II

Glad to help. Im trying to remember but I probably wouldn't have had any slight rub issues if I didn't have my rally armor flaps installed at the time. They were installed on top of the OE splash guards. The bottom line though is that it was super slight and was easily remedied. It gets less easy the further you push the wheels out haha. Feel free to DM me if you have any questions.
Question for you...

Ordering some tires today for my 2017 5th gen. I decided on Hankook 245/65r17 which i'll be putting on the 17" OEM alloy wheel.
(call me crazy but i like the look of the OEM wheel and dont really want to change it since its a 17")

That said,
i noticed everyone with 245's tend to use Motegi or some other 45 off set wheel.
The OEM alloy is 35 off set.

Above you wrote, "It gets less easy the further you push the wheels out haha"

Did you mean the further the wheel is out theres Less rubbing or More rubbing?

I know of one other 5th gen guy with 245's on stcok rims and he does just fine (Bruceyyyyy) but, he's on KO2's.

So in short, i'm wondering if i need to do more math to make sure the 245 Hankooks will be rub free on the OEM rim.

If you have insight, i'd greatly appreciate it!

PS - i should mention i also have a 2" ADF lift being installed at the same time.
 
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Wawa Skittletits

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Couple things first @morty muerte. The OE wheels are 7” wide and have an awful offset of 55 not 35. The wheels most people go with are 8” wide and as you said an offset of 45. So when you compare the two the aftermarket wheel ‘pokes’ out essentially an inch more. When you lift an independent suspension vehicle you can expect the radius of the LCA to actually pull the wheel in further. This is only slightly at 2” of lift on a Subaru but still worth mentioning when factoring how wheels ‘fit’. I have a good buddy with the same setup as Brucey and he’s mostly rub free but those wheels are far from flush if you know what I mean. It’s also a common misconception that lifting has anything to do with fitting larger tires because it simply isn’t true on this wagon.

There’s a sweet spot in the wheel wells when it comes to rubbing and it’s obviously right where the engineers put the wheels from the factory. The further you poke them out the closer the tire gets when turning. There are plenty of people on who are basically rub free with 245/65’s but not all tires are the same as the size would suggest. For example my G015’s apparently have a wider cross section than comparably sized K02’s. I can’t speak for the tires you chose but any problem you have can be fixed with a heat gun, perhaps a slight trim, and by removing splash guards or flaps.
 
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morty muerte

Rank II

Enthusiast II

Couple things first @morty muerte. The OE wheels are 7” wide and have an awful offset of 55 not 35. The wheels most people go with are 8” wide and as you said an offset of 45. So when you compare the two the aftermarket wheel ‘pokes’ out essentially an inch more. When you lift an independent suspension vehicle you can expect the radius of the LCA to actually pull the wheel in further. This is only slightly at 2” of lift on a Subaru but still worth mentioning when factoring how wheels ‘fit’. I have a good buddy with the same setup as Brucey and he’s mostly rub free but those wheels are far from flush if you know what I mean. It’s also a common misconception that lifting has anything to do with fitting larger tires because it simply isn’t true on this wagon.

There’s a sweet spot in the wheel wells when it comes to rubbing and it’s obviously right where the engineers put the wheels from the factory. The further you poke them out the closer the tire gets when turning. There are plenty of people on who are basically rub free with 245/65’s but not all tires are the same as the size would suggest. For example my G015’s apparently have a wider cross section than comparably sized K02’s. I can’t speak for the tires you chose but any problem you have can be fixed with a heat gun, perhaps a slight trim, and by removing splash guards or flaps.
Wawa, you are the man! Thank you for the thorough reply.

So, i mis spoke the offset is 55. Not 35, you are absolutely right. I always think 35 because i associate the smaller number pulling the wheel into the wheel well, not pushing out, its a brain teaser for me. Thanks for pointing that out.

And yes, i'm aware that lifting doesn't allow for larger tires. I appreciate you stating it, because i do see a lot of confusion about that on forums. A wheel well is a wheel well. Not going to get bigger unless you start chopping. I just wanted to give a general background of the plan for the vehicle.

That said,
the idea that as you lift independent suspension the wheels suck in further is something i completely overlooked. I will factor this into my plan.
Perhaps 1" spacers are a cheap solution for this?

I have 3 more questions for you since you obviously know your stuff.

1.
As you stated, the stock alloy wheel is 7" wide where a motegi 118 is 8" wide.
This is another detail i overlooked, but it also surprises me because of the following...

How does Brucy wear 245/65r17 Ko2's on his 7" alloys, which is the same size tire a lot of folks run on the Motegi 118.
Is it because there is a certain amount of latitude with tires? If so, i was unaware of this.
I'm also asking because i just ordered a set of 245/65r17 Hankooks... and now i'm worried they won't fit. haha.

2.
Aside from aesthetics, is there anything that bad about the wheel not being flush from a performance stand point?
I get that a wider stance is always more stable and better wheel base, but i also wonder if less damage would be done to the side of the car when "wheeling" since the tires would be completely within the wheel well as opposed to kicking up rocks and grit along the side of the vehicle.

3.
Lastly,
part of why i decided to go with stock wheels is i'm keeping the budget for this build very low. Mainly because the reason i went with a used outback rather than a 4runner, was i didn't want to break the bank, wanted the Subaru reliability (and simplicity) and i really don't want to start creeping up in the overall investment on this vehicle. Just looking for some low cost fun and function.

So i ask you as a subaru wheeler.
Given that i really don't care that much about aesthetics, what do you think gives more performance bang for the buck...

King Springs, which has been in my plan since day 1 to add to the 2" ADF spacer lift, or skipping the springs and going with some proper wheels like the motegi or sparco terra in the name of a wider tire contact point.

And if you're curious about vehicle use its as follows...

- 90% daily driver in Los Angeles (vehicle empty) (it has 2" hitch installed already and it wears a Yamaha Mega Warrior up top always)

- 7% local mountain bike trail head use (vehicle with hitch mounted 1-up bike tray on back + bike) - estimated load 50lbs total

- 3% off road adventure vehicle (standard camp gear, some tools, spare tire on roof, ground tent, 6 gallons of water, my lady) - estimated 120lbs (+ lady)

and sometimes i have the bike along for the adventure too which would make it 170lbs in the rear of the vehicle.


Thank you again for all the fantastic knowledge!
 

Wawa Skittletits

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I will gladly answer all of your questions @morty muerte but I’m going to do it in a DM as not to clutter up the thread. I’m adulting today so give me a little bit.
 
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AppalachianExplorer

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I saw the first picture in this thread and thought "that looks an awful lot like PA". Sure enough, Wilkes Barre! or is it "Bear"... or "Berry"? Who knows... I grew up in NEPA and still dont know how to say it. Anyway, I love the build. Taking on an Outback for an overland vehicle is awesome and it really is a good platform. I have first hand experience plowing through two foot snow drifts in one while 4WD trucks are off in the ditches.

Good luck with it and keep up the good work!
 
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max.grun

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@Wawa Skittletits I really enjoy what you have done with your Outback. It has giving me some good ideas now that I am at a point where I can start making some upgrades to mine.

I have a couple questions though, and hopefully i didn't just miss them in the thread: First) How well are the tires holding up, in term of tread life? I put close to 50k miles a year on my vehicle, a ridiculous commute, so tread life is important. Since i plan on using my Outback for fishing adventures, the highway tires need to go. Tires are going to be my first upgrade.

Second) Besides the lift and springs, were there any other suspension mods/upgrades?
 

Wawa Skittletits

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Thank you @max.grun !

As far as the tires go I haven’t taken a tread depth measurement but after 20k they seem to be wearing well. It’s my guesstimate that they’ll go 40-50k or perhaps more depending on seasonal timing. It’s worth noting that I do 5 tire rotations and I’d recommend the same for anyone with a Subaru. You definitely crush the mileage. The G015’s are a very highway friendly AT tire that has been really good at everything I’ve thrown their way. On road and off.

When I was lifted 2” camber was maxed out. That’s not the case for everyone but when I lifted it to where it is now I had to add camber arms to the back and bolts to the front. I also removed my rear sway bar a while ago and I don’t miss it. When I get around to it I’ll be coming up with disconnects for the front but that’s where I am suspension wise at this point.

Feel free to send me a DM with any of your questions anytime.

C6E94507-0D40-4288-9AB4-668E8E91841E.jpeg
 

max.grun

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Thank you @max.grun !

As far as the tires go I haven’t taken a tread depth measurement but after 20k they seem to be wearing well. It’s my guesstimate that they’ll go 40-50k or perhaps more depending on seasonal timing. It’s worth noting that I do 5 tire rotations and I’d recommend the same for anyone with a Subaru. You definitely crush the mileage. The G015’s are a very highway friendly AT tire that has been really good at everything I’ve thrown their way. On road and off.

When I was lifted 2” camber was maxed out. That’s not the case for everyone but when I lifted it to where it is now I had to add camber arms to the back and bolts to the front. I also removed my rear sway bar a while ago and I don’t miss it. When I get around to it I’ll be coming up with disconnects for the front but that’s where I am suspension wise at this point.

Feel free to send me a DM with any of your questions anytime.

View attachment 50386
Thank you, I'll definitely be sending you some more questions through DM
 

OxyMoron

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Awesome build! +1 for a dislike of chrome and shiny bits!! :) I just pulled the silver "extra cover" off the lower air dam/bumper and I'm drooling over the JDM grill (hoping for a sale soon)! Just got our Outback a few weeks ago and putting together a mods list! This thread has been super helpful! Thank you!
 

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Wawa Skittletits

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Thank you and congrats on your Outback! By all means ask if there’s anything I can help you with along the way. I originally dipped the bumper guard and have been using it for an extra layer of protection to beat on haha.

A4B0765D-668E-458B-A63A-FA32CA69F087.jpeg
 

WhatTheZo

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I don't remember if I saw this in your thread; did you have to get adjustable LCA's for your rear with that high of a lift?
 
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Wawa Skittletits

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I don't remember if I saw this in your thread; did you have to get adjustable LCA's for your rear with that high of a lift?
It could be in here somewhere haha. I run camber bolts in the front and arms for the back.
 
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