Install:
Here is the new location for the compressor, between the fuse block and the brake master cylinder.
I mocked in the bracket to move the compressor around to see where I wanted it positioned, as the single can be positioned on the left or the right of the bracket. I chose this mount because I wanted to keep the passenger side of the engine compartment free for possible battery upgrades later on down the road. The hidden beauty of this mount, is that when used with the single ARB unit, there is plenty of room for a Blue Sea/Bussmann fuse box or a Switch-Pros unit. Basically you get a 2 for 1, something I will explore later on. This mount will also work with the dual ARB compressor, but it is centered and has only one mounting position.
I then prepped the compressor using the supplied fittings from the ARB pump up kit. The “diverter” is screwed into the master cylinder of the ARB unit, and then the pressure switch and chuck can be arranged however you need to suit your application. I wrapped the male ends in Teflon tape to prevent air leaks and installed them on the unit. (you’ll see them installed in later photos)
I then mounted the compressor onto the bracket using the ARB supplied hardware. This was the position that I thought I wanted it mounted, but as you’ll see in a bit, there is a complication!
I bolted the mounting bracket and the compressor into the engine bay using Slee’s easy to follow instructions and hardware. Two bolts in the fender sheet metal using factory unused threaded holes, and two on the wheel well sheet metal again using unused factory threaded holes.
This was my original orientation, with the compressor angled, so that when the hose was connected it cleared and didn’t rub the paint on the front quarter panel.
The problem arose when i went to close the hood, and the gas strut came in contact with the air chuck. Having noticed this, I put things on pause and really thought about the placement. One thing I failed to notice, mounting closer to the edge is more convenient, but it will limit my access to the firewall for feeding through future electrical lines. With the clearance issue, and the access issue, I reoriented and decided that mounting far left would be the better overall placement. So, I unbolted everything and installed again. Better now than later on down the road though. Here is where things ended up.
Much better.
Wiring. Once the hardware was installed I connected the wiring harness to the compressor and routed the wiring loom under the bracket. I ran the 40A Max fuse and the associated wiring behind the fuse block and to the battery. I attached the provided battery terminals, and then used the 3M fasteners to attach the fuse and the relay to the inner fender, above the fuse block. (note: the below photos shows the wiring hooked up, this was taken after I was finished installing. DO NOT hook up the wiring to the battery at this point, unless you like electrocuting things or yourself)
I then ran the other end of the wiring harness into the cab via the firewall (which I have gotten much better at doing). The compressor bracket didn’t interfere with being able to access the firewall port, so I am glad I thought of it when I did! ARB supplies a wiring harness intended for running a main switch, and the associated front/rear air lockers, as this compressor is used in locker applications as well. I could have wired it without the additional harness, but this gives me options down the road, and it isn’t sacrificing too much space in the interim. On the left is the wire loop fed through the firewall, and the right is the 3-way wiring harness which I will connect the “main switch” wires to the OEM style switch as shown.
Switch black to harness black. Switch green to harness red/yellow. Switch blue/yellow to harness blue/white (this would normally be tied in with the dimmer to illuminate the switch at night when not turned on, but I elected not to do this because I don’t feel it’s needed). Switch red to harness red.
The red/yellow harness wire is the 12v supply for the switch, so I connected it to an add-a-fuse and connected that to an unused, switched fuse spot. This way, the compressor can only come on with the car running, which is what you want anyways to keep your volts up while the compressor is running.
[Note: the add-a-fuse in the lower slot is for the amber markers on the S8 light bar]
Then, bundle the wires in whatever way you prefer and stash them under the dash and secure them in whatever way you prefer. I used zip ties because they’re like duct tape, but less sticky, and more convenient. And duct tape fixes everything.
And you’re done! Here are some completed photos.
Impressions:
The compressor has plenty of grunt to fill my tires with it’s +/-3CFM flow rate and 30 min duty cycle. I performed a test when installed. At a few hundred feet above sea level, it can inflate my 275/70R17 Cooper ST Maxx’s from 18psi to 40psi in 2 minutes. Pretty impressive for a small unit. I am sure that at altitude the time will increase, but it just means I get to stay in the mountains that much longer. One thing worth noting is that without a tank, this unit is too small to power an air nozzle for blowing off the bumper or engine bay or whatever. With the dual you can do it, but I don’t think it’s a huge sacrifice for the money and space saved. If I want that capability, I can install an air tank later down the road. For my
needs this unit will work great.
More to come….
