Traveler III
Hello All,
As many of you are aware, a couple of weeks back I got myself stuck at the bottom of a ravine down by Big Sur and had to call for help - a call that was answered by the OB community: First saving myself, my GF, and my dog... then recovering my truck intact a few days later. I'm of course eternally grateful to everyone involved - such an amazing community with some of the best people put on this earth. That said, I felt it was a good chance to turn my "misadventure" into a "learning opportunity" for not only myself, but others as well. If you'd like to know what led to my situation, how I dealt with it, and how we got out, and the lessons learned - here's the whole story. I hope it helps others to not make the same mistakes, and to hopefully be prepared if it does ever happen to them.
Note: I'm not proud of any of this. I feel like the biggest dumbass for getting into this mess. But I'm sharing it because it could help someone else make better choices in their own adventures.
Preface: my GF has never really overlanded anywhere. She's seen my passion for it and wanted to enjoy it with me, so I planned a trip down to the Big Sur area with the intention of taking her to this idyllic, secluded spot with a natural spring, nearby stream, tons of shade, and no people. We were packed for a long weekend of relaxation and comfort. Charcuterie board, wine, etc etc - you get the idea. We brought along Mika, my trusty GSD as well. Sounds nice and easy, right?
Truck: 2019 Toyota 4Runner ORP, 35's, front* and rear lockers, crawl control, winch, recovery gear including tree saver, snatch block, buddy rope, soft and hard shackles, tow strap, and 4 traction boards. For the last ~2.5 years she's been a very capable, reliable truck that has always gotten me through obstacles.
Comms: Ham Radio ICOM-5100 dual band, 2 handhelds (HAM & GMRS), cell phone extender, and Garmin InReach satellite texting device. Also, I can yell really loud :-). Also, I told multiple friends where we were heading (destination, but not route - this is key later).
Supplies: We had enough food for a week for both of us and the dog (I tend to overpack). 15 gallons of water onboard - plus a water filtration system and backup lifestraws for each of us. We could have easily stayed down in the ravine for over a week without even rationing.
Weather: 102F during the day, 50F at night. Hot, but not bad in the shade - and remember, the idea was to be by a natural cold spring and stream the whole time.
Overview:
We left Friday mid-morning from Fremont, CA driving down 101 through Salinas and then Jolon, where we turned into Camp Hunter-Liggett land to come into the area from the backside (rather than Highway 1 as I've done before). It was mostly roads/trails I've been on before - except the last 20 miles or so. Gaia showed the trail was intact and usable - so I had no reason to question it until we got there. In fact, until we hit the TRIPLE BERM - I had no reason to turn around. There were some technical parts, but the 4Runner handled them with ease - just the right amount of challenge and excitement with minimal risk. We ended up in the ravine and couldn't get out.
"Don't cross berms"
I've heard this plenty of times over the years, but I've also come across berms that were poorly maintained, or made by locals to protect their favorite camping/hunting/fishing spots, so this isn't a rock hard rule (for me). I've crossed them in the past, with often amazing results in terms of trails, views, campsites, etc. This is one (of many) ways my past experiences worked against me. This was probably my biggest inexcusable mistake of the trip. Triple, massive berms - they don't get more deliberate or clear. For some reason I was in a "Can I do it?" not a "Should I do it?" mindset. Map showed the trail continued, to go back would cost us 2-3 hours, I just wanted to get to camp, and I was in the mood for a challenge. Big mistake. I winched over the berms (again, plenty of time to rethink things, but I was in an "I got this" mindset). I doubt anyone else would have made this mistake.
The Mess:
Past the berms was a solid trail - wide and flat, no camber, with a couple of long, steep parts (like trails I've been on before without any issues). There were also multiple trees I could use to winch (except I didn't estimate the distance between them well - more on that later). So we cruised down the trail, taking it slow and steady on the steep downhills, no problems whatsoever. To add to that - we could see where the trail continued on the other side of the ravine up along the ridgeline. Again, no reason to turn around, and we could see it led somewhere - so we continued on. Then I made my 2nd mistake. We hit another steep part, with a slight camber to the outside (cliff side) of the trail. Here's where my thought process fell short. Trail was steep, but I've done similarly steep trails before. Trail had camber, but I've done similar (worse even). Trail had a big rut all the way down, weaving back and forth across the trail - but I've handled those before as well. Where I failed, and it was a biggie, was looking at the trail consistency. If I had gotten out and walked down it, I would have instantly seen it was not solid (like it looked) but rather crumbly and slippery). Once we started down there was no stopping/turning around - we were committed. I did a controlled slide all the way to the bottom, over 1000ft of trail, almost tipping twice when the front wheel slid into the rut, forcing us into a very precarious camber/angle. At one part my GF said "OMG I hope we don't hit that tree!" while I was thinking "OMG I hope we hit that tree so we don't go over the edge!" I was in 4L, 1st gear, foot heavily on the brakes, going as slow as possible, stopping as often as I could, all the way down. I absolutely believe my experience and lines made the difference between making it down and tipping over the edge. Not bragging, but I do know at least I did that right. We were committed - once I logically accepted there was no going back - going forward was the only option, and doing it slowly, wisely, a little bit at a time was the smart move.
So - we get down the trail of doom and ended up in a wide, dry riverbed with trees and a decent amount of water still along one side of the river bed. It was actually very pretty - except that whole "we can't get out" thing. We followed the map that led down the river bed to where the trail out was supposed to be. This is where the sinking feeling hit an all new low. The bottom 50-100ft of the trail out the other side was gone. Like, not obscured... not just overgrown... but GONE. I'd guess some time in the last 10 years (or more) the river had swelled and eroded it all away. I launched the drone and again you could see the trail climb up the hills and run across the top of them all the way to the forest fire road over by Highway 1 we were trying to get to. We were stuck. No easy way out.
This is where you have to use logic - main focus on safety. It was 5pm - I just drove most of the day, the last hour or so was berms and controlled chaos slides, and now I was emotionally defeated by the situation. This is no time to keep going/to try to get out. We had a perfectly good campsite, flat and with water nearby. We had food and water for days. We had a fully functional truck and shelter (RTT and awning with screened room to protect us from the elements and the flies) - so I made the decision to set up camp, enjoy dinner, relax, and think things through NOT behind the wheel. We had wine, a charcuterie tray of meats, cheeses, fruits and veggies. I cooked up some pulled pork and made a salad. We even had some cocktails with ice (fridge has an ice maker). We felt like the Howell's on Gilligan's Island :-). I did my best to project calm and logic, while internally I was freaking out. I decided to give the trail a try in the morning (not back the way we came in) - while my GF and dog relaxed in the shade down by the water. Minimizing risk to them. Then we went to bed, enjoyed looking at the stars from the tent, and slept great.
Saturday morning we got up early (6am) - made breakfast, packed up camp, and I left my GF and dog with shade, chairs and a table, food and water, and a handheld radio (I was never beyond shouting distance, but it just made it easier and was a smart move - she had comms, and it made her feel better to have a radio just in case). Then I attempted to climb/winch out - for 4 hours - and barely made it 50ft. Hill was too steep, anchor points were too few, poorly positioned, and could anchor high enough so the winch was actually pulling me INTO the hill - making the tires dig in deeper rather than climb up. I decided not to risk the truck (or myself) any further. Accepting defeat was hard. Logically I should have been able to get out. But reality disagreed, and I had to accept and adapt accordingly. So I rolled back to the riverbed, called for help, and setup camp again.
Comms:
Ham Radio (50W) was useless. We were in a curving ravine hundreds of feet high on both sides. I tried to reach anyone directly - multiple channels - no luck. I tried to reach local repeaters (be sure to setup before you go, or have a directory like RepeaterBook on your phone and know how to program them once you get there) - again, no luck. I could occasionally get a signal from them - but couldn't reach them. I could even hear Armin and the OB group from time to time - but couldn't reach them. Just the signal bouncing around the hills and occasionally hitting us. Cell signal was non-existent - even with WeBoost signal booster. So it came down to the Garmin InReach. It wasn't perfect - in fact it had a few issues that I'm addressing with Garmin (talked to them at Overland Expo PNW this past weekend - they gave me contact info for a head tech/support director - will post an update on that later). I managed to get a hold of Alex Hsu - who in turn alerted OB and my rescue/recovery was rolling within an hour or two. We were talking directly on Ham with Armin/Mike/Roger/etc that evening, and the decision was made to make camp for the night (us and them in our respective spots) and rescue/recovery would be attempted in the morning.
Rescue:
Sunday morning the plan was for my GF, Mika, and myself to hike/climb out and meet the rescue team at the top - then assess the situation and attempt a recovery of the truck accordingly. So at 7am we left camp (truck was packed and ready for a recovery attempt) and left the truck at the bottom of the trail we came in on - and we climbed up to the meeting point (awesome camp site with 360 degree views and full cell signal and waited for the rescue team. We packed fruit, nuts, and jerky - and enough water for the hike up, an hour or two sitting up top, and enough water to get us back to the truck if needed - as well as the satellite device, handheld ham/gmrs radios, our cell phones, and my drone. The rescue team was coming from the highway 1 side (remember we came in from the central valley side) - so they planned to take another trail across to us - only to find a military-grade gate blocking them. It would have been a 3 hour detour to get to us - so we made the decision for us to hike to them. It was 102F, very little shade - and we ran out of water in the first 2 miles or so as the trail was mostly uphill. Armin and Will met us halfway with water - but even then we had to heavily ration. Roger then met us halfway back with more water and we made it back to the trucks. The decision was made by all involved that it was late in the day, boiling hot, a long drive back to the area to assess, and the smart move was to drive out and come back another day. Huge thanks to the main group for having food and drinks ready for us, and an exceptional thanks to Roger for driving us all the way back home - he was an amazing host along the way as well.
Leaving the Truck:
People have asked if it was a hard call. Short answer: No. I was in logic mode. Human life trumps a vehicle. The vehicle was safe and secure. The recovery of the 4Runner would not be easy, and attempting it would need to be done with a focus on safety and patience. I was sad, but it was an easy decision to get the two of us (and the dog) out safely, then come back with the necessary people and gear to do the recovery in the best way possible. It was a no-brainer decision IMO, and at least my brain was working that time. :-).
Truck Recovery Planning:
I was talking every day (from Sunday until Wednesday night before the Thursday morning recovery of the truck) with fellow OB members - to build a recovery team, and get as much advice as possible from the experts in the group. I spent the time collecting gear every day - extra tow straps, shackles, etc. etc. I also set up a Zoom call the night before, including a presentation with maps, diagrams, pictures, lists, etc. We made sure everyone was aware of the situation, what we were bringing in terms of trucks, gear, people, etc. - and that everyone knew the plan. As always, plans seldom hold up to reality, but we covered backup plans as well. We shared phone numbers, confirmed comms
Recovering the Truck:
We had 4 trucks and 5 guys, over 1000ft of winch line, tow ropes, tree savers, kinetic ropes, shackles, snatch blocks, recovery boards - and even a come along and a land anchor - all borrowed from multiple friends like Mike Shaffer, Alex, Justin & Annie, etc. The outpouring of support, in materials, advice, actual in-person help, and well-wishes was overwhelming and humbling. OB is a fantastic group of really amazing people - I'd recommend them to anyone, anytime. Anyways - Thanks to 2 good friends (Chris and Jerry) and 2 guys I'd never met before (Anthony and Ian) - we rolled back in on Thursday morning, coming in the way I'd come originally. The trail had some challenging spots - the general feedback was they wouldn't have done it alone, but they would have tried it in a group - up until the berms - then no one would repeat my self-admitted stupidity. We left the trucks at the berms, and hiked down to the truck, found it intact. We moved things around to lower the center of gravity as much as possible, replaced the fouled winch line, and setup for the climb out. Everyone chipped in with strategies/tactics and an absolutely HEROIC amount of physical effort. We spliced winch lines, maximized the use of snatch blocks to affect winch power and geometry, used traction boards to negate the effect of the deep ruts, and after 5 hours of winching - the truck got to a flat spot mid-trail. The next big climb was straight up, much better trail consistency (hardpacked, no rut, etc) - so I decided to "send it" - full speed run and the truck made it up on it's own. One more dip and another "send it" run and the truck made it to the berms. A relatively quick winch over the berms and it was free. We started hiking down to the truck by 10am... we were out by 4:30p - I was home in Fremont by 11pm.
Lessons Learned:
1.) If you overland alone, stick to safe/easy trails only. Save the challenges for group trips. Had I had another overlander with me - their logic would have corrected my lapses in judgement.
2.) Always communicate/share your route (not just destination) to others before you go. Use APRS if possible to share your status/progress.
3.) 100ft of winch line and straps may not be enough. Carry an extra winch line - know how to splice them - and you can extend to almost 200ft for just a few extra pounds in your recovery gear. Also - if you get a fouled winch line, you can replace it. I know carry an extra 85' winch line with me, and know how to splice them if needed.
4.) Communications: Be complete. No short answers - a technical glitch plus poor communications on my part added unncessary confusion to the situation. Example: Someone asked "Are you ok?" and I responded "Yes" - but at the same time someone asked "Did you roll?" - they got the "yes" answer - making everyone think we had rolled. The delay and a technical glitch with Garmin led to more confusion. Next time I'll answer "Yes, we're healthy/fine" or "No, truck is fully functional, no roll" with my initials and time (military time) so they can see that I sent it, and what time, in case the system has a delay/issue.
5.) When in a sketchy situation - think it through multiple times!! Can I vs Should I... look at ALL the factors (trail conditions - slope, camber, consistency).
6.) Never completely trust/rely on the map. This is a rookie point - but if the map never let you down before, it can quickly become something you take for granted.
7.) Stay logical. Primary focus should always be safety. Take a break, make a plan, stick to the plan. Consider the situation, all the factors, make the logical choices. Trucks can be replaced. People can't.
8.) Really think before crossing berms. Take the approach of crossing them is the rare exception.
9.) Be a member of OB - build friendships and your reputation with other members - they can move mountains for you at a moment's notice.
Things I did right:
1.) Be as prepared as possible. Plenty of food, water. Truck was mechanically well-prepared and equipped - (will be even more so after this trip).
2.) Comms - cellular, ham, gmrs, satellite - know how to use all of them. Have local repeater information handy.
3.) Once you're in the mess - stay logical, stay calm, deal with each problem as it comes up. Solve one problem, then the next, then the next - and you'll get to come home. Mine was a.) Get down the trail to somewhere safe/stable. b.) Rest/Recover/Plan. c.) Attempt to get out if you can. d.) Be realistic and call for help - don't let your pride get in the way of your safety. Example: coming down the slippery trail was a series of 10-20ft slides. Each taken one-at-a-time - when I could get the truck to stop, we'd sit for a few minutes to relax, drink some water, plan the next move. 1000 ft later we were safe on the riverbed.
4.) When you're waiting for the next steps, waiting for recovery, whatever - make the most of the time. Relax, enjoy your surroundings, refresh your body and mind in any way possible. We ate dinner, drank wine, watched a movie - it all helped to calm nerves, help us think clearly, make better decisions and to be ready when the time for action came.
5.) Again, being a part of a great community like OB. I've built some amazing friendships with other OB members - attend meetings, get to know others, go on trips together - be there to help when others need it. Also, "Trail karma" was a part of all this - over the years I've helped dozens of people with water, gas, tire repair, winching, etc etc - and I'm a firm believer that "trail karma" is real (I've seen it with others time and time again).
6.) Make plans - make backup plans - assign action points. If this, then do that. "If I can't get out, I call for help, period". Stick to it. It's tempting to keep trying - easy to get caught up in the moment - stick to the plan you made when calm. Be safe.
7.) If you need help - communicate! Details about your status (healthy, plenty of supplies, etc) - First concern is always human life. Then vehicle status. Then situation/challenges. Then recommendations/needs. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE VIDEOS. Share them - include notes. Always respond to every question - even if they seem unimportant to you - it helps others assess and solve the problem. Information is key - collect it, share it. It can be the difference between success and failure.
I'll post pictures and video, as well as my prep presentation, in the comments below shortly. Again, I can't thank the OB community enough for all the help. So many people, from Michael and Kent at the top, to the people who actively contributed, to people across the continent who shared well-wishes. Absolutely amazing and appreciated.
- Boz
As many of you are aware, a couple of weeks back I got myself stuck at the bottom of a ravine down by Big Sur and had to call for help - a call that was answered by the OB community: First saving myself, my GF, and my dog... then recovering my truck intact a few days later. I'm of course eternally grateful to everyone involved - such an amazing community with some of the best people put on this earth. That said, I felt it was a good chance to turn my "misadventure" into a "learning opportunity" for not only myself, but others as well. If you'd like to know what led to my situation, how I dealt with it, and how we got out, and the lessons learned - here's the whole story. I hope it helps others to not make the same mistakes, and to hopefully be prepared if it does ever happen to them.
Note: I'm not proud of any of this. I feel like the biggest dumbass for getting into this mess. But I'm sharing it because it could help someone else make better choices in their own adventures.
Preface: my GF has never really overlanded anywhere. She's seen my passion for it and wanted to enjoy it with me, so I planned a trip down to the Big Sur area with the intention of taking her to this idyllic, secluded spot with a natural spring, nearby stream, tons of shade, and no people. We were packed for a long weekend of relaxation and comfort. Charcuterie board, wine, etc etc - you get the idea. We brought along Mika, my trusty GSD as well. Sounds nice and easy, right?
Truck: 2019 Toyota 4Runner ORP, 35's, front* and rear lockers, crawl control, winch, recovery gear including tree saver, snatch block, buddy rope, soft and hard shackles, tow strap, and 4 traction boards. For the last ~2.5 years she's been a very capable, reliable truck that has always gotten me through obstacles.
Comms: Ham Radio ICOM-5100 dual band, 2 handhelds (HAM & GMRS), cell phone extender, and Garmin InReach satellite texting device. Also, I can yell really loud :-). Also, I told multiple friends where we were heading (destination, but not route - this is key later).
Supplies: We had enough food for a week for both of us and the dog (I tend to overpack). 15 gallons of water onboard - plus a water filtration system and backup lifestraws for each of us. We could have easily stayed down in the ravine for over a week without even rationing.
Weather: 102F during the day, 50F at night. Hot, but not bad in the shade - and remember, the idea was to be by a natural cold spring and stream the whole time.
Overview:
We left Friday mid-morning from Fremont, CA driving down 101 through Salinas and then Jolon, where we turned into Camp Hunter-Liggett land to come into the area from the backside (rather than Highway 1 as I've done before). It was mostly roads/trails I've been on before - except the last 20 miles or so. Gaia showed the trail was intact and usable - so I had no reason to question it until we got there. In fact, until we hit the TRIPLE BERM - I had no reason to turn around. There were some technical parts, but the 4Runner handled them with ease - just the right amount of challenge and excitement with minimal risk. We ended up in the ravine and couldn't get out.
"Don't cross berms"
I've heard this plenty of times over the years, but I've also come across berms that were poorly maintained, or made by locals to protect their favorite camping/hunting/fishing spots, so this isn't a rock hard rule (for me). I've crossed them in the past, with often amazing results in terms of trails, views, campsites, etc. This is one (of many) ways my past experiences worked against me. This was probably my biggest inexcusable mistake of the trip. Triple, massive berms - they don't get more deliberate or clear. For some reason I was in a "Can I do it?" not a "Should I do it?" mindset. Map showed the trail continued, to go back would cost us 2-3 hours, I just wanted to get to camp, and I was in the mood for a challenge. Big mistake. I winched over the berms (again, plenty of time to rethink things, but I was in an "I got this" mindset). I doubt anyone else would have made this mistake.
The Mess:
Past the berms was a solid trail - wide and flat, no camber, with a couple of long, steep parts (like trails I've been on before without any issues). There were also multiple trees I could use to winch (except I didn't estimate the distance between them well - more on that later). So we cruised down the trail, taking it slow and steady on the steep downhills, no problems whatsoever. To add to that - we could see where the trail continued on the other side of the ravine up along the ridgeline. Again, no reason to turn around, and we could see it led somewhere - so we continued on. Then I made my 2nd mistake. We hit another steep part, with a slight camber to the outside (cliff side) of the trail. Here's where my thought process fell short. Trail was steep, but I've done similarly steep trails before. Trail had camber, but I've done similar (worse even). Trail had a big rut all the way down, weaving back and forth across the trail - but I've handled those before as well. Where I failed, and it was a biggie, was looking at the trail consistency. If I had gotten out and walked down it, I would have instantly seen it was not solid (like it looked) but rather crumbly and slippery). Once we started down there was no stopping/turning around - we were committed. I did a controlled slide all the way to the bottom, over 1000ft of trail, almost tipping twice when the front wheel slid into the rut, forcing us into a very precarious camber/angle. At one part my GF said "OMG I hope we don't hit that tree!" while I was thinking "OMG I hope we hit that tree so we don't go over the edge!" I was in 4L, 1st gear, foot heavily on the brakes, going as slow as possible, stopping as often as I could, all the way down. I absolutely believe my experience and lines made the difference between making it down and tipping over the edge. Not bragging, but I do know at least I did that right. We were committed - once I logically accepted there was no going back - going forward was the only option, and doing it slowly, wisely, a little bit at a time was the smart move.
So - we get down the trail of doom and ended up in a wide, dry riverbed with trees and a decent amount of water still along one side of the river bed. It was actually very pretty - except that whole "we can't get out" thing. We followed the map that led down the river bed to where the trail out was supposed to be. This is where the sinking feeling hit an all new low. The bottom 50-100ft of the trail out the other side was gone. Like, not obscured... not just overgrown... but GONE. I'd guess some time in the last 10 years (or more) the river had swelled and eroded it all away. I launched the drone and again you could see the trail climb up the hills and run across the top of them all the way to the forest fire road over by Highway 1 we were trying to get to. We were stuck. No easy way out.
This is where you have to use logic - main focus on safety. It was 5pm - I just drove most of the day, the last hour or so was berms and controlled chaos slides, and now I was emotionally defeated by the situation. This is no time to keep going/to try to get out. We had a perfectly good campsite, flat and with water nearby. We had food and water for days. We had a fully functional truck and shelter (RTT and awning with screened room to protect us from the elements and the flies) - so I made the decision to set up camp, enjoy dinner, relax, and think things through NOT behind the wheel. We had wine, a charcuterie tray of meats, cheeses, fruits and veggies. I cooked up some pulled pork and made a salad. We even had some cocktails with ice (fridge has an ice maker). We felt like the Howell's on Gilligan's Island :-). I did my best to project calm and logic, while internally I was freaking out. I decided to give the trail a try in the morning (not back the way we came in) - while my GF and dog relaxed in the shade down by the water. Minimizing risk to them. Then we went to bed, enjoyed looking at the stars from the tent, and slept great.
Saturday morning we got up early (6am) - made breakfast, packed up camp, and I left my GF and dog with shade, chairs and a table, food and water, and a handheld radio (I was never beyond shouting distance, but it just made it easier and was a smart move - she had comms, and it made her feel better to have a radio just in case). Then I attempted to climb/winch out - for 4 hours - and barely made it 50ft. Hill was too steep, anchor points were too few, poorly positioned, and could anchor high enough so the winch was actually pulling me INTO the hill - making the tires dig in deeper rather than climb up. I decided not to risk the truck (or myself) any further. Accepting defeat was hard. Logically I should have been able to get out. But reality disagreed, and I had to accept and adapt accordingly. So I rolled back to the riverbed, called for help, and setup camp again.
Comms:
Ham Radio (50W) was useless. We were in a curving ravine hundreds of feet high on both sides. I tried to reach anyone directly - multiple channels - no luck. I tried to reach local repeaters (be sure to setup before you go, or have a directory like RepeaterBook on your phone and know how to program them once you get there) - again, no luck. I could occasionally get a signal from them - but couldn't reach them. I could even hear Armin and the OB group from time to time - but couldn't reach them. Just the signal bouncing around the hills and occasionally hitting us. Cell signal was non-existent - even with WeBoost signal booster. So it came down to the Garmin InReach. It wasn't perfect - in fact it had a few issues that I'm addressing with Garmin (talked to them at Overland Expo PNW this past weekend - they gave me contact info for a head tech/support director - will post an update on that later). I managed to get a hold of Alex Hsu - who in turn alerted OB and my rescue/recovery was rolling within an hour or two. We were talking directly on Ham with Armin/Mike/Roger/etc that evening, and the decision was made to make camp for the night (us and them in our respective spots) and rescue/recovery would be attempted in the morning.
Rescue:
Sunday morning the plan was for my GF, Mika, and myself to hike/climb out and meet the rescue team at the top - then assess the situation and attempt a recovery of the truck accordingly. So at 7am we left camp (truck was packed and ready for a recovery attempt) and left the truck at the bottom of the trail we came in on - and we climbed up to the meeting point (awesome camp site with 360 degree views and full cell signal and waited for the rescue team. We packed fruit, nuts, and jerky - and enough water for the hike up, an hour or two sitting up top, and enough water to get us back to the truck if needed - as well as the satellite device, handheld ham/gmrs radios, our cell phones, and my drone. The rescue team was coming from the highway 1 side (remember we came in from the central valley side) - so they planned to take another trail across to us - only to find a military-grade gate blocking them. It would have been a 3 hour detour to get to us - so we made the decision for us to hike to them. It was 102F, very little shade - and we ran out of water in the first 2 miles or so as the trail was mostly uphill. Armin and Will met us halfway with water - but even then we had to heavily ration. Roger then met us halfway back with more water and we made it back to the trucks. The decision was made by all involved that it was late in the day, boiling hot, a long drive back to the area to assess, and the smart move was to drive out and come back another day. Huge thanks to the main group for having food and drinks ready for us, and an exceptional thanks to Roger for driving us all the way back home - he was an amazing host along the way as well.
Leaving the Truck:
People have asked if it was a hard call. Short answer: No. I was in logic mode. Human life trumps a vehicle. The vehicle was safe and secure. The recovery of the 4Runner would not be easy, and attempting it would need to be done with a focus on safety and patience. I was sad, but it was an easy decision to get the two of us (and the dog) out safely, then come back with the necessary people and gear to do the recovery in the best way possible. It was a no-brainer decision IMO, and at least my brain was working that time. :-).
Truck Recovery Planning:
I was talking every day (from Sunday until Wednesday night before the Thursday morning recovery of the truck) with fellow OB members - to build a recovery team, and get as much advice as possible from the experts in the group. I spent the time collecting gear every day - extra tow straps, shackles, etc. etc. I also set up a Zoom call the night before, including a presentation with maps, diagrams, pictures, lists, etc. We made sure everyone was aware of the situation, what we were bringing in terms of trucks, gear, people, etc. - and that everyone knew the plan. As always, plans seldom hold up to reality, but we covered backup plans as well. We shared phone numbers, confirmed comms
Recovering the Truck:
We had 4 trucks and 5 guys, over 1000ft of winch line, tow ropes, tree savers, kinetic ropes, shackles, snatch blocks, recovery boards - and even a come along and a land anchor - all borrowed from multiple friends like Mike Shaffer, Alex, Justin & Annie, etc. The outpouring of support, in materials, advice, actual in-person help, and well-wishes was overwhelming and humbling. OB is a fantastic group of really amazing people - I'd recommend them to anyone, anytime. Anyways - Thanks to 2 good friends (Chris and Jerry) and 2 guys I'd never met before (Anthony and Ian) - we rolled back in on Thursday morning, coming in the way I'd come originally. The trail had some challenging spots - the general feedback was they wouldn't have done it alone, but they would have tried it in a group - up until the berms - then no one would repeat my self-admitted stupidity. We left the trucks at the berms, and hiked down to the truck, found it intact. We moved things around to lower the center of gravity as much as possible, replaced the fouled winch line, and setup for the climb out. Everyone chipped in with strategies/tactics and an absolutely HEROIC amount of physical effort. We spliced winch lines, maximized the use of snatch blocks to affect winch power and geometry, used traction boards to negate the effect of the deep ruts, and after 5 hours of winching - the truck got to a flat spot mid-trail. The next big climb was straight up, much better trail consistency (hardpacked, no rut, etc) - so I decided to "send it" - full speed run and the truck made it up on it's own. One more dip and another "send it" run and the truck made it to the berms. A relatively quick winch over the berms and it was free. We started hiking down to the truck by 10am... we were out by 4:30p - I was home in Fremont by 11pm.
Lessons Learned:
1.) If you overland alone, stick to safe/easy trails only. Save the challenges for group trips. Had I had another overlander with me - their logic would have corrected my lapses in judgement.
2.) Always communicate/share your route (not just destination) to others before you go. Use APRS if possible to share your status/progress.
3.) 100ft of winch line and straps may not be enough. Carry an extra winch line - know how to splice them - and you can extend to almost 200ft for just a few extra pounds in your recovery gear. Also - if you get a fouled winch line, you can replace it. I know carry an extra 85' winch line with me, and know how to splice them if needed.
4.) Communications: Be complete. No short answers - a technical glitch plus poor communications on my part added unncessary confusion to the situation. Example: Someone asked "Are you ok?" and I responded "Yes" - but at the same time someone asked "Did you roll?" - they got the "yes" answer - making everyone think we had rolled. The delay and a technical glitch with Garmin led to more confusion. Next time I'll answer "Yes, we're healthy/fine" or "No, truck is fully functional, no roll" with my initials and time (military time) so they can see that I sent it, and what time, in case the system has a delay/issue.
5.) When in a sketchy situation - think it through multiple times!! Can I vs Should I... look at ALL the factors (trail conditions - slope, camber, consistency).
6.) Never completely trust/rely on the map. This is a rookie point - but if the map never let you down before, it can quickly become something you take for granted.
7.) Stay logical. Primary focus should always be safety. Take a break, make a plan, stick to the plan. Consider the situation, all the factors, make the logical choices. Trucks can be replaced. People can't.
8.) Really think before crossing berms. Take the approach of crossing them is the rare exception.
9.) Be a member of OB - build friendships and your reputation with other members - they can move mountains for you at a moment's notice.
Things I did right:
1.) Be as prepared as possible. Plenty of food, water. Truck was mechanically well-prepared and equipped - (will be even more so after this trip).
2.) Comms - cellular, ham, gmrs, satellite - know how to use all of them. Have local repeater information handy.
3.) Once you're in the mess - stay logical, stay calm, deal with each problem as it comes up. Solve one problem, then the next, then the next - and you'll get to come home. Mine was a.) Get down the trail to somewhere safe/stable. b.) Rest/Recover/Plan. c.) Attempt to get out if you can. d.) Be realistic and call for help - don't let your pride get in the way of your safety. Example: coming down the slippery trail was a series of 10-20ft slides. Each taken one-at-a-time - when I could get the truck to stop, we'd sit for a few minutes to relax, drink some water, plan the next move. 1000 ft later we were safe on the riverbed.
4.) When you're waiting for the next steps, waiting for recovery, whatever - make the most of the time. Relax, enjoy your surroundings, refresh your body and mind in any way possible. We ate dinner, drank wine, watched a movie - it all helped to calm nerves, help us think clearly, make better decisions and to be ready when the time for action came.
5.) Again, being a part of a great community like OB. I've built some amazing friendships with other OB members - attend meetings, get to know others, go on trips together - be there to help when others need it. Also, "Trail karma" was a part of all this - over the years I've helped dozens of people with water, gas, tire repair, winching, etc etc - and I'm a firm believer that "trail karma" is real (I've seen it with others time and time again).
6.) Make plans - make backup plans - assign action points. If this, then do that. "If I can't get out, I call for help, period". Stick to it. It's tempting to keep trying - easy to get caught up in the moment - stick to the plan you made when calm. Be safe.
7.) If you need help - communicate! Details about your status (healthy, plenty of supplies, etc) - First concern is always human life. Then vehicle status. Then situation/challenges. Then recommendations/needs. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE VIDEOS. Share them - include notes. Always respond to every question - even if they seem unimportant to you - it helps others assess and solve the problem. Information is key - collect it, share it. It can be the difference between success and failure.
I'll post pictures and video, as well as my prep presentation, in the comments below shortly. Again, I can't thank the OB community enough for all the help. So many people, from Michael and Kent at the top, to the people who actively contributed, to people across the continent who shared well-wishes. Absolutely amazing and appreciated.
- Boz
