Bed Rack vs. Cap (ARE style, or similar)

  • HTML tutorial

jolagues

Rank V
Launch Member

Advocate III

1,653
Carmichael, California, United States
First Name
Jose
Last Name
Olagues
Member #

12971

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KM6QXA
I am currently contemplating the same thing. I have a go fast camper on order but am thinking of selling my spot and going with a canopy or rack. I would also want full height for an awning. I have a 2018 ZR2.

I am looking at the Alucab the RLD design which also comes in full size.


Pricy but still less than the go fast camper even with the rtt
 

Power Wagon Mitch

Rank III
Launch Member

Enthusiast II

509
Washington County, Utah, United States
First Name
Mitch
Last Name
Elwood
Member #

20148

I am currently contemplating the same thing. I have a go fast camper on order but am thinking of selling my spot and going with a canopy or rack. I would also want full height for an awning. I have a 2018 ZR2.

I am looking at the Alucab the RLD design which also comes in full size.


Pricy but still less than the go fast camper even with the rtt
That’s a good looking setup. The stainless steel may be pretty heavy. Do you know how much the combo would weigh?
 

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
I was literally about to post the exact same topic. Thanks for the post and the suggestions.

My ultimate goal is to have a cap with solar on top for a solar generator in the bed. My thinking is that it will provide the needed security and protection from the elements. I plan on sleeping in the bed as well. The cap should be going on in the next couple of months or so. Long term, I plan to have an internal rack/drawer system that I will build.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Power Wagon Mitch

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
I am currently contemplating the same thing. I have a go fast camper on order but am thinking of selling my spot and going with a canopy or rack. I would also want full height for an awning. I have a 2018 ZR2.

I am looking at the Alucab the RLD design which also comes in full size.


Pricy but still less than the go fast camper even with the rtt
For reference, the Tacoma cap is 160 lbs.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Wallygator

RoarinRow

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,771
Elk Grove, CA, USA
First Name
Rolando
Last Name
Nispiros
Member #

17011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6JJS
I was literally about to post the exact same topic. Thanks for the post and the suggestions.

My ultimate goal is to have a cap with solar on top for a solar generator in the bed. My thinking is that it will provide the needed security and protection from the elements. I plan on sleeping in the bed as well. The cap should be going on in the next couple of months or so. Long term, I plan to have an internal rack/drawer system that I will build.
I have a cap and solar panel and solar generator/battery in the bed. However, I put my solar panel on top of the cab instead of the cap. On the cap I have cross bars so I can put my basket and other accessories on. I also can sleep in the bed, but I store storage boxes underneath the bed because I want more headroom, which I believe a rack/drawer system would take away from.

lift.jpgspace.jpegfile3-3.jpegsolar charger.jpeg
 

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
I have a cap and solar panel and solar generator/battery in the bed. However, I put my solar panel on top of the cab instead of the cap. On the cap I have cross bars so I can put my basket and other accessories on. I also can sleep in the bed, but I store storage boxes underneath the bed because I want more headroom, which I believe a rack/drawer system would take away from.

View attachment 135046View attachment 135047View attachment 135048View attachment 135049
Awesome! Thank you for the pics! The drawer system would only be on 1/3 of the truck bed. 2/3 would be for sleeping. Also, I don't think it will be an enclosed drawer, but more of a pull out platform on rails. I would mount the stove, refrigerator, and storage bin on it. I could then pull it out and cook, etc on it.

Is your solar generator completely separate from your trucks' electrical?
 

RoarinRow

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,771
Elk Grove, CA, USA
First Name
Rolando
Last Name
Nispiros
Member #

17011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6JJS
Awesome! Thank you for the pics! The drawer system would only be on 1/3 of the truck bed. 2/3 would be for sleeping. Also, I don't think it will be an enclosed drawer, but more of a pull out platform on rails. I would mount the stove, refrigerator, and storage bin on it. I could then pull it out and cook, etc on it.

Is your solar generator completely separate from your trucks' electrical?
Ah ok I thought it was one of those drawer system that covered the entire bed, which is cool, but takes up space if sleeping in it. I just keep my fridge and other stuff to the side as well. It doesn't get in the way.

My 100w solar setup is independent from the trucks' electrical. So I have a 1000w inverter connected to the panel with a 100w Renogy battery. This is more than enough to power lights, fan, fridge, phone, etc. If I had skills, I would strongly look into a DC-DC setup so that my Renogy battery could be charged either from the main truck battery or solar. My mental challenge is how in the heck to run thick cables from engine bay to bed of truck without drilling holes (more holes) lol.
 

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
Ah ok I thought it was one of those drawer system that covered the entire bed, which is cool, but takes up space if sleeping in it. I just keep my fridge and other stuff to the side as well. It doesn't get in the way.

My 100w solar setup is independent from the trucks' electrical. So I have a 1000w inverter connected to the panel with a 100w Renogy battery. This is more than enough to power lights, fan, fridge, phone, etc. If I had skills, I would strongly look into a DC-DC setup so that my Renogy battery could be charged either from the main truck battery or solar. My mental challenge is how in the heck to run thick cables from engine bay to bed of truck without drilling holes (more holes) lol.
Sorry for the thread jacking the canopy discussion.

I would drill the canopy instead of the truck. Run the cables under the truck and then up between where the truck cab and bed meet. Then put the hole(s) in the canopy by the front glass of the canopy. Use some marine grade quick disconnects on the canopy so you could easily remove the canopy and generator when needed. Also, run a battery isolator so that the Renogy battery never draws power from the truck if the truck battery is below a certain voltage (otherwise you may not be able to start the truck). Also, the isolator should only allow charging of the Renogy when the truck battery is over a certain voltage. Basically, should only charge the Renogy when the truck battery and alternator have excess power available.

This is my long term goal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RoarinRow

RoarinRow

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,771
Elk Grove, CA, USA
First Name
Rolando
Last Name
Nispiros
Member #

17011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6JJS
Sorry for the thread jacking the canopy discussion.

I would drill the canopy instead of the truck. Run the cables under the truck and then up between where the truck cab and bed meet. Then put the hole(s) in the canopy by the front glass of the canopy. Use some marine grade quick disconnects on the canopy so you could easily remove the canopy and generator when needed. Also, run a battery isolator so that the Renogy battery never draws power from the truck if the truck battery is below a certain voltage (otherwise you may not be able to start the truck). Also, the isolator should only allow charging of the Renogy when the truck battery is over a certain voltage. Basically, should only charge the Renogy when the truck battery and alternator have excess power available.

This is my long term goal.
My thoughts exactly. Just haven't mustered up the courage to do it lol. I would be ok with having a pro do it. Again, long term goal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AnthonyD1978

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
Yes, 550 lbs is the rating from ARE.

I had concerns about a couple things with it though.

1.) the frame system goes through the roof which could potentially leak water (I live in WA which is a big concern)- so far no leaking at all

2.) A fiberglass canopy is heavy compared to Aluminum. The Power Wagon has limited payload due to the off road suspension setup (1,444 lbs). I haven’t weighed it personally but the website says 190 lbs which takes a decent chunk off of the total payload.

3.) it’s tall...

4.) it gets pricey with add ons and custom paint (mine was just over 4K)

It’s always important to keep track of total payload weight, including people, to ensure safe performance.

I will probably have to install new suspension in the future as I add more stuff to the truck...lol

Good things:

1.) looks pretty sharp with paint matching

2.) holds everything I need it to

3.) very sturdy

4.) mildly insulated with the fabric interior option

5.) Tall enough to get in even with the Decked system

6.) doubles as a place to sleep

7.) I’m 220 lbs and have walked on the top without any denting or issues

Hope this info helps you make an informed decision

Cheers!

Mitch
Thank you for all the info on this cap. It made me take a look at it and decide to get the CX HD (the cab height version). I was able to work the quote for $3000 out the door installed and painted. The only option I got was the solid side panels with the single T handle latch. Any other upgrades I'll do myself.

1579033241402.png

I'm debating on getting the sliding front window. Just waiting on them to get back to me to with the cost of that option. I will will probably pull the trigger on it tomorrow.
 
Last edited:

JacobThomas1654

Rank II
Launch Member

Member I

327
Payson Utah 84651
First Name
JACOB
Last Name
THOMAS
Member #

21357

For the past thirty years I have always had a cap for my trucks. I have no problem putting them on or taking them off depending on the task at hand. As far as weight bearing I have had no issues hauling anything I have wanted to put on top. It’s a long ways up and I wouldn’t want that much top weight up there anyway. The Center of gravity and my back thanks me for not hauling to much heavy stuff up top. Here’s my latest project.31AA93D2-7794-4EBE-837E-E233B52E795B.jpeg72DC4792-C9A7-4C6A-A5BF-22ABCA931FDC.jpeg
 

RoarinRow

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,771
Elk Grove, CA, USA
First Name
Rolando
Last Name
Nispiros
Member #

17011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6JJS
For the past thirty years I have always had a cap for my trucks. I have no problem putting them on or taking them off depending on the task at hand. As far as weight bearing I have had no issues hauling anything I have wanted to put on top. It’s a long ways up and I wouldn’t want that much top weight up there anyway. The Center of gravity and my back thanks me for not hauling to much heavy stuff up top. Here’s my latest project.View attachment 135367View attachment 135368
Love the setup and dash of red in the rims!
 

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
Thank you for all the info on this cap. It made me take a look at it and decide to get the CX HD (the cab height version). I was able to work the quote for $3000 out the door installed and painted. The only option I got was the solid side panels with the single T handle latch. Any other upgrades I'll do myself.

View attachment 135277

I'm debating on getting the sliding front window. Just waiting on them to get back to me to with the cost of that option. I will will probably pull the trigger on it tomorrow.
Thanks again. I placed my order today.
I added the solid Windoor sides with T folding handle and a front slider window. For anyone's reference, I negotiated: $3095 painted, installed and tax. (tax is $300 here).
 

Power Wagon Mitch

Rank III
Launch Member

Enthusiast II

509
Washington County, Utah, United States
First Name
Mitch
Last Name
Elwood
Member #

20148

Thanks again. I placed my order today.
I added the solid Windoor sides with T folding handle and a front slider window. For anyone's reference, I negotiated: $3095 painted, installed and tax. (tax is $300 here).
Glad to help! Sounds like you got a great deal!Send some pics when you get it installed.

Cheers!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AnthonyD1978

dreysgroove

Rank 0

Contributor I

60
Fremont, CA, USA
First Name
Alex
Last Name
Cordrey
Hey, I'm new to OB and about to do my first trip. I have an F150 with a 6.5' bed. I'm a contractor, so I have a Snugtop shell and Rack-It over-shell lumber rack. I'm thinking about how to make a removable Leitner system that mounts to the sides on the posts of the rack. I'm about to email Leitner for the specs on their rails, then have my steel guy weld some studs or taps or something so I can bolt/unbolt the sides. Not sure how I will work in an RTT... I want one that sleeps 4, but it'll have to sit up really high so it can unfold over the side rails of the lumber rack. Anyway, let us know what you end up doing on your rig! UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_3ec9.jpg
 

KyleGrant

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

981
Wichita, KS
First Name
Kyle
Last Name
Soldani
Member #

2565

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KSØTOR
I'll chime in as I've gone through this transition myself.

In my specific case, I started with a back-rack and tonneau cover with the idea of going with an external mounted system for RTT or something similar down the road. To preface all this, I may be a bit of a unique case in the fact of carrying fire gear and other equipment with me (while not traveling) I don't want in my cab but I want to remain dry and secure. This drove a lot of my decisions. For this reason, I moved away from the back-rack and sold it off. I found keeping equipment in the cab didn't work for me, was messy and I prefer as clean a cab as I can maintain. 20150929_125833.jpg

Enter the cap. Found one on CL for $300, had it painted for $400 to match my truck OEM paint. It had a roof rail/rack system already in place which made for a solid spot to mount to. On top I have a flat grate style metal cover (hard to explain, not what it's designed for - but it works for me). 20191007_150021.jpg Mounted to that is a flexible 80w solar panel, emergency LED lightbar, side 'scene or area' lighting, a Smittybilt awning and I have room for traction mats if I want. 20190323_173758.jpg Based upon specific needs based on the current 'mission' I can move things around. I used L-track cargo track mounted top and bottom of my side window which accesses the bed area. If I'm running trails frequently, don't need bed access, etc. this works great to leave my traction mat/shovels easily accessible. If I need easy access to the bed (not traveling) I can either leave them off or keep them up top. image-20190426_160709.jpg I found recently during a trip to Oregon the quick access to the bed area (where I sleep) was nice for transitioning valuables out of the cab to my bed at night. This was mainly a road trip and not as much off-road, so it's more situational to me than anything. The left side of the shell is an integrated plastic bin which I use for electronics of the cap, some fresh water storage, medical supplies, toiletries, basically anything I use multiple times a day and want easy access to.

After all my moving around I found the 'platform' of having a shell to be invaluable to me. I can really move things around and experiment but at the end of the day for my use it works great. Any time I need vertical space to haul furniture or something larger I just borrow a 4x8 trailer from a buddy or family member. My shell rarely leaves the truck at this point.

EDIT: Sorry for all the pictures, found some better and more recent ones that hopefully give you some ideas you can do with a cap.
Side cap storage area for electronics. 20190902_134908.jpg

View inside bed with right side access window up (handy for dropping camping gear in or accessing the fridge) 20190902_135029.jpg

Super basic drawer/platform system I built, wouldn't have been able to fit this or keep it dry without a cap. 20190902_135004.jpg20190902_134948.jpg

Top wire grid and solar panel. 20190902_135049.jpg
 
Last edited:

Maddog74

Rank II

Enthusiast III

473
Lemoore, CA, USA
First Name
James
Last Name
Mattingly
Member #

21238

Leitner Designs rack...decked system...Alu-Cab Expedtion III...270 Alu-Cab awning. Added solar panel (Renogy 2x100w). Powers dometic CFX75. Leitner storage boxes give you extra storage.

View attachment 133027View attachment 133028View attachment 133029View attachment 133030
fisrt off your rig looks sweet! good job... your bed rack , would you change anything about it? I'm looking at that same one? second I looked on decked site thy don't show a system for my 74 power wagon....and was thinking of building my own drawer system, from what you've seen with yours , do you think I should keep searching for some one that makes it for my bed ?
 

AnthonyD1978

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

1,010
Prescott, AZ, USA
First Name
Anthony
Last Name
D
My ARE cap came in a few weeks ago. I love the way it looks, but I am not too impressed with the quality of the fit and finish. The weather seals and window framing seems really cheaply done. Paint has quite a few imperfections and they use different keys for the side doors and the rear window. I also thought the interior skeleton system was flush against the ceiling of the cap. It's not and my fault for not researching it more. It should still function fine, but for $3k I was expecting a more professional product.

I've only moved my recovery gear from under the rear seats to the bed, but I plan on building out the cap to handle camping duties (fridge, stove top, solar, etc).

Now onto the most important thing....pictures :)

IMG_9263.jpg
IMG_9264.jpg
IMG_9261.jpg
IMG_9267.jpg
 

RoarinRow

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,771
Elk Grove, CA, USA
First Name
Rolando
Last Name
Nispiros
Member #

17011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KN6JJS
My ARE cap came in a few weeks ago. I love the way it looks, but I am not too impressed with the quality of the fit and finish. The weather seals and window framing seems really cheaply done. Paint has quite a few imperfections and they use different keys for the side doors and the rear window. I also thought the interior skeleton system was flush against the ceiling of the cap. It's not and my fault for not researching it more. It should still function fine, but for $3k I was expecting a more professional product.

I've only moved my recovery gear from under the rear seats to the bed, but I plan on building out the cap to handle camping duties (fridge, stove top, solar, etc).

Now onto the most important thing....pictures :)

View attachment 145862
View attachment 145863
View attachment 145864
View attachment 145865
Awesome looking rig and sweet shell!
 
  • Like
Reactions: AnthonyD1978