Battery Terminal Tamer

[Jeep15631]

Anyone use these:

Boat Steering Solutions - Terminal Tamer

If you found us through the Ship Shape TV show, WELCOME!!! Boat Steering Solutions is SeaStar factory trained & authorized to remanufacture and service hydraulic steering systems.

www.boatsteer.com

Looks like a good idea for the items that require direct wiring to the battery- winch, SPod, Radio equipment, branch circuits, etc. The manufacture does not have a amperage rating and they state it can handle more than the battery terminals can. Thoughts?

 

[MidOH]

I leave the clamps factory, then add one single wire that leads to a car audio fuse block.

 

[Jeep15631]

I leave the clamps factory, then add one single wire that leads to a car audio fuse block.

Thanks for the feedback. Any specific reason as to why you wouldn't use this versus keep factory? I really like the bluesea products. The issue I am running into is trying to find a place to put a bus-bar or similar equipment. I have a SPod style setup already just running out of room for the battery-direct equipment. Here is what I need to connect to the battery: Spod, winch, CB, HAM, backup flood lights (on a relay), Starter, and I need to add an additional circuit for the rear of my jeep for my new fridge.

 

[MidOH]

Those work fine. But I avoid adding leverage onto the lead terminals. And that style clasp tends to cut into the terminal a little, which makes it a pita to get off.

You can run a fused 4g wire all the way back to your fridge, then cut some insulation off around the interior to solder a wire to a little fuse block for the interior accessories. Add a cap if it's noisy.

 

[grubworm]

Those work fine. But I avoid adding leverage onto the lead terminals. And that style clasp tends to cut into the terminal a little, which makes it a pita to get off.

You can run a fused 4g wire all the way back to your fridge, then cut some insulation off around the interior to solder a wire to a little fuse block for the interior accessories. Add a cap if it's noisy.

i like the idea of the terminal tamer, but after reading your post, what you said makes a lot of sense...especially it cutting a groove in the lead post and trying to get it off after.

 

[Flipper]

You could run your distribution buss bar to an other location using a large amp Blue Seas batt post style fuse then run 2/0 to the remote buss. I just saw the TV segment on the terminal tamer on Shipshape, the one thing I do not like IMO there is is no cover. I am also a big fan of BlueSeas, I used to do marine electronic installs and used blues Seas all the time......bullet proof!

 

[Jeep15631]

You could run your distribution buss bar to an other location using a large amp Blue Seas batt post style fuse then run 2/0 to the remote buss. I just saw the TV segment on the terminal tamer on Shipshape, the one thing I do not like IMO there is is no cover. I am also a big fan of BlueSeas, I used to do marine electronic installs and used blues Seas all the time......bullet proof!

Thanks for the reply. Doing some more searching I came across the PowerPost from BlueSea. This might work better than the terminal tamer. PowerPost Plus - 5/16"-18 Stud - Blue Sea Systems

I didn't think of the terminal tamer style of connection wearing into the battery post. This can become an issue on rough roads overtime, especially with the added weight of all of the wires.

 

[slomatt]

Personally I don't like to add a lot of wires to the battery posts for three reasons:
1) Increased force on the post.
2) Makes it more of a pain to remove the battery.
3) It gets difficult to keep an insulating cover in place.

Like MidOH I prefer to run a single wire from the positive terminal to a separate fuse block or buss bar. This way I keep the factory electrical system largely unmodified and have a single wire that drives all my add-on circuits. It's good practice to keep the unfused section of wire as short as possible, and in fact BlueSea makes some terminal post fuses that are a good solution for this.

On my 4Runner (which has a winch) I ran a 2awg wire to a 500A fuse that sits on top of the battery. This then feeds the winch and also my power distribution box which has fuses for other circuits.

On my Tacoma I ran an 8awg wire to a 100A breaker that sits on top of the battery. This provides a quick way to shut off all add-on circuits, and feeds a buss bar that then feeds my air compressor and sPod.

 

[Flipper]

That would work. I ran 4ga. to my “sub buss” to under my drivers seat where it connects an Inverter, CB, 2M and a usb accessory port.

Thanks for the reply. Doing some more searching I came across the PowerPost from BlueSea. This might work better than the terminal tamer. PowerPost Plus - 5/16"-18 Stud - Blue Sea Systems

I didn't think of the terminal tamer style of connection wearing into the battery post. This can become an issue on rough roads overtime, especially with the added weight of all of the wires.

.

 

[Jeep15631]

That would work. I ran 4ga. to my “sub buss” to under my drivers seat where it connects an Inverter, CB, 2M and a usb accessory port.View attachment 131520View attachment 131521View attachment 131522View attachment 131523
.

That's a good idea. I never thought of running a subbus inside of the vehicle. I could then run another circuit to the rear of my jeep for the fridge and other accessories. It would eliminate most of the "small" wire from under the hood. I like the idea of busbar for under the hood but there isn't much room in a jeep.

 

[Flipper]

That's a good idea. I never thought of running a subbus inside of the vehicle. I could then run another circuit to the rear of my jeep for the fridge and other accessories. It would eliminate most of the "small" wire from under the hood. I like the idea of busbar for under the hood but there isn't much room in a jeep.

Sounds good! Glad I could help.