Your running 24 volts to your starter? With dual starters?
What motor do you run for that?
As for batteries, I prefer AGM with a basic isolator. My AGM preference is Odyssey. AGM's will tolerate more than lithium's. Lead acid is good and will tolerate more than AGM.
I think he means “Dual Starters” as in dual starting batteries. Also as most non experienced electricians gets confused between parallel and series wiring… he has them wired in parallel meaning positive to positive and negative to negative.
When looking at a battery isolator, look for one that has a bypass option so that in the event your main starting battery fails you have an emergency start solution. Typically I don’t use a commercial battery isolator, I make my own using a solenoid designed for this task set up on a three position toggle switch. Middle position is off and only the start battery is energized to the trucks stock electrical system, position 1 allows the solenoid to be triggered by the alternator to allow charging to both the auxiliary battery and main battery, position 2 continuously holds the solenoid closed allowing the auxiliary battery to combine with the main battery for jump starting. This system is easy to set up, works with all vehicles, and uses common parts that can be sourced easily world wide.
Batteries: I run the Walmart Super Start AGMs for my starting battery and a Walmart Marine/RVStart Deep Cycle for my secondary under hood battery… I also have a complete stand alone secondary battery system consisting of two 100 Ah LiFePO4 batteries mounted inside my rig with a insulation and an RV tank heater connected to a BMS, Charge Controller, and solar. The Stand alone system runs my coms gear and my devices such as phones, tablet, laptop, and other non RF generating devices. All of my lights, fridge, inverter, potable water pump, and other RF generators run off the Auxiliary under hood battery. This gives me “clean” power to my devices, a way to isolate my auxiliary devices from the vehicle.