Battery’s and multiple battery’s

[SpikeMD]

AGMs are a bit more robust than regular lead acid. I would also recommend one of the lithium jump packs (over 10k). They hold charge for a long time and work really well. Can save u if u drain the battery down. On rovers, u can hold the middle some light for 30 seconds and put the truck in 'camp' mode so it doesn't turn on interior lights and charge up the truck for starting every time u open a door. Constantly going into the truck can drain a starting battery quickly.

 

[SpikeMD]

I use a dual starter-deep cycle large battery Interstate from Costco in my Range Rover. Has good reserve if I need it but rely on Goal Zero Yeti 400 for running the fridge when stationary. I also use 150+watts of foldable solar (Powerfilm and Flexopower) for recharging when stationary.

 

[Derek50]

If that's all you need, then the main battery will be enough.

Yes, that would be enough for you.

So, are you guys saying a marine battery is enough? Or an AGM car battery is enough?

 

[nickburt]

So, are you guys saying a marine battery is enough? Or an AGM car battery is enough?

Your ordinary main battery will be enough.

 

[Mike W]

I agree with the others, having a dual battery is extra work and expense. You have to maintain two batteries health. AGM require a bit more care to keep them healthy in my experience (mostly because of 'intelligent' land rover alternators). So having shore power charging etc is recommended.

I was just out in the garage tweaking my setup. Moving some things around. I have a LOT of crap fitted into a small space. The factory 'aux' battery tray is used by the abs controller and a computer module and a few things. So I moved them around, made brackets, etc to make room for another aux battery and all the gadgets.

I need to figure out a smart way to run solar cables up my windshield A-pillars.

Both my battery trays have factory covers that seal them up pretty well, this is with the covers off.

Here is my factory start battery, upgraded to a larger size agm (fits with no modifications).

Next is my aux battery and all the toys to make it work. I love the Traxide system because:

1. It ties both batteries together as long as the start battery is over 50% state of charge.
2. thus, when the vehicle is running, alternator charges both batteries always.
3. It allows me to use half the capacity of the starter battery along with the aux, so I drain my aux battery less (better for it)
4. Its automatic, no switches, no forgetting and draining a battery.
5. It supports reverse charging. When my solar charges the aux battery, if the start battery is linked, its charging it also!
6. No dc-to-dc charger involved here, no clunky solenoids. Digital!

I also have another small traxide isolator in the rear cargo area that protects the aux battery from over discharge. The ABG-25. I also have an OPT7 wireless remote controller for my camp lights and the little distribution blocks for comms, fridge, air compressor, 50psi shower pump. etc. Also ran extra sockets and rewired factory sockets to be always on and use the aux battery.

 

[MazeVX]

So, are you guys saying a marine battery is enough? Or an AGM car battery is enough?

Take a agm that was made as a starter battery and you will be fine.
AGM has some benefits as a starter and isn't that expensive these days, my stock battery is agm and if it fails someday, it will be replaced by another with the same specs, if I ain't got a winch then.

 

[SpikeMD]

Winch shouldn't be a big deal. You should never run a winch without the vehicle running as it takes a big draw but the alternator should be able to handle it.

Be sure the winch contacts are really tight and test your winch each trip before heading out. I had an issue with a loose ground and it fried the large wire under load.

 

[nickburt]

I agree with the others, having a dual battery is extra work and expense. You have to maintain two batteries health. AGM require a bit more care to keep them healthy in my experience (mostly because of 'intelligent' land rover alternators). So having shore power charging etc is recommended.

I was just out in the garage tweaking my setup. Moving some things around. I have a LOT of crap fitted into a small space. The factory 'aux' battery tray is used by the abs controller and a computer module and a few things. So I moved them around, made brackets, etc to make room for another aux battery and all the gadgets.

I need to figure out a smart way to run solar cables up my windshield A-pillars.

Both my battery trays have factory covers that seal them up pretty well, this is with the covers off.

Here is my factory start battery, upgraded to a larger size agm (fits with no modifications).

Next is my aux battery and all the toys to make it work. I love the Traxide system because:

1. It ties both batteries together as long as the start battery is over 50% state of charge.
2. thus, when the vehicle is running, alternator charges both batteries always.
3. It allows me to use half the capacity of the starter battery along with the aux, so I drain my aux battery less (better for it)
4. Its automatic, no switches, no forgetting and draining a battery.
5. It supports reverse charging. When my solar charges the aux battery, if the start battery is linked, its charging it also!
6. No dc-to-dc charger involved here, no clunky solenoids. Digital!

I also have another small traxide isolator in the rear cargo area that protects the aux battery from over discharge. The ABG-25. I also have an OPT7 wireless remote controller for my camp lights and the little distribution blocks for comms, fridge, air compressor, 50psi shower pump. etc. Also ran extra sockets and rewired factory sockets to be always on and use the aux battery.

Nice set up. Must see if I can find a UK equivalent of the Traxide, or see if they will ship at a reasonable cost to the UK. Think I'll be heading down the road of the Victron Bluesolar with bluetooth.

 

[Mike W]

Nice set up. Must see if I can find a UK equivalent of the Traxide, or see if they will ship at a reasonable cost to the UK. Think I'll be heading down the road of the Victron Bluesolar with bluetooth.

I bought mine direct from Australia. I just ran my solar cables up inside the a-pillar for solar. I don't have the cables hidden once they pop out of the a-pillar, they are just stuck to the black roof rail trim with some super strong 3m tape. Not sure if that will work long term.

 

[nickburt]

I bought mine direct from Australia. I just ran my solar cables up inside the a-pillar for solar. I don't have the cables hidden once they pop out of the a-pillar, they are just stuck to the black roof rail trim with some super strong 3m tape. Not sure if that will work long term.

Think I might send them an email. Just been doing some research and there doesn't seem to be anything on the UK market that works in the same way.

Not a problem with wiring, either up the snorkel and onto the roof rack, or out through a gland/junction box, either on the roof, or one of the rear panels and onto the roof rack. All my roof rack cabling on the Mitsibishi is neatly loomed and held in place with zip ties. The Defender will be done in a similar way.

I have plans for the Defender, not only solar panels incorporated into the roof rack, but some front, rear and side facing lights, so I'm currently trying to figure a multi cable route that's connected via plug and socket, so if the rack has to come off, the wiring is just a simple unplug, rather than having to disconnect everything individually.

Most of it is fairly low power stuff, so cable size, and therefore plug/socket pin size, isn't an issue, but there will be a couple of fairly high powered LED light bars that need decent size cables and that the problem, finding a plug and socket arrangement that will cope with higher current on a couple of pins and less on other pins, earth return being one of the biggest. I hoping to only need to run one return to the battery negative - so that may end up being a big single cable and it's own plug/socket.
Anyway, I digress from the OP - apologies.