Auxillary light wiring...

[Scott]

So I got a wild hair and decided to mount some LED's I had sitting around to my Leitner rack with brackets I already had from Leitner designs. Their primary use will be camp lighting, I may eventually buy some yellow dust shields for them to turn them into dust lights for when I am in the desert. My question is, how do you guys do your electrical wiring? These lights did not come with a wiring harness. Am I better off to buy a premade harness, or just wire them with individual wiring and peices that I pick up? How would you do it? My plan is to mount a blue seas fuse box to power all of my auxillary equipment, so that part is taken care of. Any ideas are appreciated. Here are a couple pics of the lights mounted..

 

[Mad Garden Gnome]

I generally build my own harness' (aviation electrical background here). This way the install is custom to the chassis I am working.

This would be a good opportunity for you to learn if you are willing to take on the project. Having the Blue Sea distribution box is a great starting point. You are not splicing into existing factory wiring with questionable performance and outcomes. My distribution runs straight off of the battery with the master fuse at the battery.

Here is a calculator that gets me very accurate results as compared to approved aviation charts.

They also have a really useful phone app. For all calculations I set the installation to conduit.

I generally put a 10% margin into all calculations.

I recommend running your wire in corrugated split sleeve. It looks clean and gives a modicum of protection.

I also recommend using heat shrink over any splices or connections as possible.

If you have further questions feel free to post or PM.

 

[maktruk]

Having the Blue Sea distribution box is a great starting point. You are not splicing into existing factory wiring with questionable performance and outcomes. My distribution runs straight off of the battery with the master fuse at the battery.

I have this.

I recommend running your wire in corrugated split sleeve. It looks clean and gives a modicum of protection.

I do this. Hate the stuff though, need a skinny fish tape.

I also recommend using heat shrink over any splices or connections as possible.

I do this too.

Makes me feel better to know I'm doing something right, once in awhile. Thx. :-)

 

[maktruk]

MGG was curious about my battery location, I thought I'd posted a different pic...

Thats the whole setup at time of install. Few things have changed but basically the same.

 

[Scott]

Thank you gents. I think I will follow your advice and build my own. I did find a wiring harness to the pair of lights but it just doesn't seem sturdy enough. My plan is to solder all connections and cover with heat shrink tubing. And to run split loom along the wiring harness for protection. Thanks for the calculation link as well. I don't usually do electricity but I'm looking forward to this little project. Maybe it will help build my confidence in wiring...

 

[Mad Garden Gnome]

MGG was curious about my battery location, I thought I'd posted a different pic...

Thats the whole setup at time of install. Few things have changed but basically the same.

Ah I miss identified what your distribution box was on.

Okay, thread hijack over.

 

[Mad Garden Gnome]

Thank you gents. I think I will follow your advice and build my own. I did find a wiring harness to the pair of lights but it just doesn't seem sturdy enough. My plan is to solder all connections and cover with heat shrink tubing. And to run split loom along the wiring harness for protection. Thanks for the calculation link as well. I don't usually do electricity but I'm looking forward to this little project. Maybe it will help build my confidence in wiring...

Ask ask ask away.

Honestly, a crimp connection is sufficient.........and faster to make. Just make sure and do a tug test. Not to dissuade you from soldering.

This little variety packs of shrink wrap are nice but they have way too much overlap in size. I have found the most economical path is buying the four foot lengths from McMaster-Carr in quarter inch increments.

 

[Rogue Beardsman]

Do it yourself! I didn't know much about wiring and did some research and found that its not to bad. Just make sure you do it nice and clean the first time or could run into issues later. I also used a blue sea box and its worth it. It makes it easier down the line to add more or change things up and better than running all kinds of stuff to your battery.

 

[timberwolf_120]

Thank you gents. I think I will follow your advice and build my own. I did find a wiring harness to the pair of lights but it just doesn't seem sturdy enough. My plan is to solder all connections and cover with heat shrink tubing. And to run split loom along the wiring harness for protection. Thanks for the calculation link as well. I don't usually do electricity but I'm looking forward to this little project. Maybe it will help build my confidence in wiring...

If you wanna go that route look into solder splices.
They have a solder ring in the middle of whats basically clear heat shrink. Works wonders. Not as fast as crimp connectors but faster then regular soldering. Plus you cant accidentally forget to put the heatshrink on lol

Also im not sure if you plan on running more lights but the spod universal wiring system is damn nice and makes wiring much easier and cleaner.

Im an aviation tech and deal with wiring almost daily...i hate it lol

 

[Rob B]

Thanks for the thread buddies, I am about to decide on doing some wiring and I thought it might be better if I do it myself vs. the kid in the shop. I know they mean well, but it would be nice to be fully confident that it is a clean and bulletproof install. My goal is to have some 'area' lighting. I was thinking of using the lux lighting product, I am attracted to the small footprint, and the fact they mount by magnet. I can picture leaving a bit of lead on the light so I can mount them to point down or out on my roof rack.

 

[vicali]

It would be nice to know the draw of those lights before you started, that would let you design the harness a bit better. Also will show if you need to run it with a relay or not - I would recommend you do. I also like to use add-a-fuse inputs rather than cutting/splicing the OEM harness.

I grew up holding the soldering iron for my Dad on projects, so I'm usually making my own harnesses as well.. I find that doing it yourself means you can get really clean installs with exactly the right lengths and wiring routes.

 

[VCeXpedition]

Adding to what looks to be an older thread, but interesting none the less.

Not sure you included this in this thread, but where is your switch located?

Will you put the switch at each of the lights, or will you have a switch somewhere near your BlueSea panel?

I'm re-doing my rear light now and am wondering the best place and control for the switch.

Also another assumption is to run the switch on the hot (+B) side, but is there any thought of switching the ground leg?
I have done both for different reasons, but with lights I think the common thinking is to switch the positive side as close to the fuse as you can to further protect from short-to-ground issues. Maybe @Mad Garden Gnome has an opinion about this?

Maybe another thought is to whether to use a relay or not. I think on low-power LED lights, probably over-kill, but I'm all about over-kill and also use relay's quite a bit.

I have used the Blue Sea panel extensively on all my serious projects and when a customer wants an almost bullet proof system, they're the way to go.

Dan.

 

[Rob B]

It would be nice to know the draw of those lights before you started, that would let you design the harness a bit better. Also will show if you need to run it with a relay or not - I would recommend you do. I also like to use add-a-fuse inputs rather than cutting/splicing the OEM harness.

I grew up holding the soldering iron for my Dad on projects, so I'm usually making my own harnesses as well.. I find that doing it yourself means you can get really clean installs with exactly the right lengths and wiring routes.

Thanks! I figure a relay is needed too. They posted the draw of all the models, and they range from 200 ma for the small lights, to 300 ma for the bigger ones.

Additionally, if I do make my own harness, I could look into how the previous owner did the roof lights, and improve that install too.

 

[Captain Josh]

That's fun! I wonder how well the magnets will hold up to the elements (and jostling)...

 

[Rob B]

Adding to what looks to be an older thread, but interesting none the less.

Not sure you included this in this thread, but where is your switch located?

Will you put the switch at each of the lights, or will you have a switch somewhere near your BlueSea panel?

I'm re-doing my rear light now and am wondering the best place and control for the switch.

Also another assumption is to run the switch on the hot (+B) side, but is there any thought of switching the ground leg?
I have done both for different reasons, but with lights I think the common thinking is to switch the positive side as close to the fuse as you can to further protect from short-to-ground issues. Maybe @Mad Garden Gnome has an opinion about this?

Maybe another thought is to whether to use a relay or not. I think on low-power LED lights, probably over-kill, but I'm all about over-kill and also use relay's quite a bit.

I have used the Blue Sea panel extensively on all my serious projects and when a customer wants an almost bullet proof system, they're the way to go.

Dan.

Yeah, I figured I would at least search and build on a thread that existed instead of making my own. As a new guy, I want to make a decent impression, haha.

I'm looking to you guys for switch advice too. My current driving lights are low on the left of the steering wheel, which I don't like because I have to hunt around in the dark to feel for it. It would be cool if the switch is reachable from an open window, and as a driver, easily located in the dark as to not require 'looking'.

I am not afraid in investing in a panel to make sure the system is bulletproof. I've seen enough quirky installs to know that a decent one is worth it.

 

[Rob B]

That's fun! I wonder how well the magnets will hold up to the elements (and jostling)...

Me too. They are listed as '8mm dia X 3mm Tall N45H Neodymium Round Magnet'. I like the idea that I can put them on the bottom or the side of square tubing if I leave a couple of inches of extra lead. ..however, if they are prone to pop off, or dangle, no thanks.

 

[Vyscera]

Me too. They are listed as '8mm dia X 3mm Tall N45H Neodymium Round Magnet'. I like the idea that I can put them on the bottom or the side of square tubing if I leave a couple of inches of extra lead. ..however, if they are prone to pop off, or dangle, no thanks.

for what it's worth, I stuck a magnetic hide-a-key on the underside of my truck and have never lost it. If it takes a solid tug to get it off, you should be alright.

 

[Rob B]

for what it's worth, I stuck a magnetic hide-a-key on the underside of my truck and have never lost it. If it takes a solid tug to get it off, you should be alright.

I figure so too. By my experience some of those small earth magnets are a pita to peel off. My only reluctance would be theft. I need to think of a discreet location.

 

[Glenn]

Thanks for the thread buddies, I am about to decide on doing some wiring and I thought it might be better if I do it myself vs. the kid in the shop. I know they mean well, but it would be nice to be fully confident that it is a clean and bulletproof install. My goal is to have some 'area' lighting. I was thinking of using the lux lighting product, I am attracted to the small footprint, and the fact they mount by magnet. I can picture leaving a bit of lead on the light so I can mount them to point down or out on my roof rack.

I run the LUX rock lights on my rubicon and LOVE them. Great quality and well worth the money. Very bright and the best part is they are movable to get the light where you want it. Mine are blue and I use them primarily for rock crawling and night trail use.

 

[Rob B]

I run the LUX rock lights on my rubicon and LOVE them. Great quality and well worth the money. Very bright and the best part is they are movable to get the light where you want it. Mine are blue and I use them primarily for rock crawling and night trail use.

View attachment 15387

That is great to hear. Honestly, they seem like they are at a very aggressive price point for the amount of light and flexibility.