So I am not super knowledgeable on the electric system but here it goes. I have a Blue Sea fuse box and a 100amp break that I want to run lights and my new ARB compressor on as part of my new auxiliary power system. However the compressor and some lights (that I already have installed) have there own fuse and/or relay already on there line. My question to anyone is... if a power line to a light/ compressor has multiple (ie 2) fuses and a relay on it, with that degrade performance or break something?
Auxiliary power set up
- Thread starter cwolf1991
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- Rolando
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- Nispiros
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I don't know the technical answer, but in my case where a line had an inline fuse, I just cut it out because I was connecting the same line to a fuse box. There is one case, however, were I left it on, lol so I would like to know the answer to your question as well.
Phillysteak
Rank IV
Enthusiast III
You shouldn't have a problem with double fuses, the one with a lower current limit will burn out first if there is a short. Just make sure to size the fuses appropriately for each device branched off the main circuit.
Edit: If you are in-line fusing specific devices just keep track of where all the fuses are, makes in-field troubleshooting easier.
Edit: If you are in-line fusing specific devices just keep track of where all the fuses are, makes in-field troubleshooting easier.
Member III
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- Rolando
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- Nispiros
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Ya I would like to avoid cutting and repairing lines because like I said, I am not super electric savvy. Guess we will wait for the power of the internet to answer our question.
Phillysteak
Rank IV
Enthusiast III
Of course!
These types of connectors work well for quick connections, not quite enough solder for larger gauge wires but they are great for in-field repairs. Just need a heat gun or lighter. Might be a good addition to the toolbox to repair or extend your harnesses without a soldering iron.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dxe-hsib-pack3
These types of connectors work well for quick connections, not quite enough solder for larger gauge wires but they are great for in-field repairs. Just need a heat gun or lighter. Might be a good addition to the toolbox to repair or extend your harnesses without a soldering iron.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dxe-hsib-pack3
Traveler III
I have installed an aux power system in the back of my rig. I'm happy to help.
1. which Blue Sea fuse box do you have? Part number or an amazon link would be helpful
2. Which ARB compressor?
3. Are you running power from a starter battery under the hood? or a second battery that you added?
4. Which lights? How many?
Your question: "if a power line to a light/ compressor has multiple (ie 2) fuses and a relay on it, with that degrade performance or break something?"
You will not degrade performance or break anything. In an automobile application the extra fuses add extra security to prevent fires.
Enthusiast II
The fuses should not degrade anything so long as all the connections (contacts ) remain clean. Fuses should be sized to 150% of your load for the compressor or any electric motor. This prevents blowing fuse at start up (in rush current). Wire should be sized to handle the same. For other loads like lights, add up amps per fused circuit and place fuse at minimuim 20% over load. So, 20 amp fuse should only run 16 amp load. For switches, depends on the switch. Contacts have resistance and this increases over time. Get good quality parts and it should be fine. Less moving parts less problems; one switch per device is best. I am collecting parts to run a second battery and have just started my research so no recommendations on materials yet. Good luck.
If some of the accessories already have inline fuses then there isn't much point in double fusing them, and in fact it would make it more complicated to diagnose a loss of power.
If you want all your fuses in a centralized place you could cut off the inline fuses and run those accessories off similar sized fuses in your BlueSea fuse box.
Or, if you don't want to modify the wires or take up space in the BlueSea fuse box you could wire the 100A breaker to the positive terminal of the battery, and then hook up the protected side of the breaker to a buss bar. Your accessories with inline fuses would connect to the bus bar, and you could run a wire from the buss bar to your BlueSea fuse box.
This is how I have my Tacoma setup.
Instead of a breaker you could also run a terminal post fuse which mounts directly onto the battery terminal. These are nice because there is no unprotected section of wire, but I prefer a breaker (with as short a wire as possible) so that there is a way to manually disconnect all of the non-factory electronics.
If you want all your fuses in a centralized place you could cut off the inline fuses and run those accessories off similar sized fuses in your BlueSea fuse box.
Or, if you don't want to modify the wires or take up space in the BlueSea fuse box you could wire the 100A breaker to the positive terminal of the battery, and then hook up the protected side of the breaker to a buss bar. Your accessories with inline fuses would connect to the bus bar, and you could run a wire from the buss bar to your BlueSea fuse box.
This is how I have my Tacoma setup.
- 100A breaker fed from the battery. This shuts off all of the non-factory electronics on the truck.
- Breaker feeds a buss bar mounted to the side of the engine compartment.
- Buss bar powers...
- My ARB compressor (inline fuses)
- An 8AWG wire to the back of the truck (inline fuse)
- SPOD (inline fuse) which fuses/switches my other accessories.
Instead of a breaker you could also run a terminal post fuse which mounts directly onto the battery terminal. These are nice because there is no unprotected section of wire, but I prefer a breaker (with as short a wire as possible) so that there is a way to manually disconnect all of the non-factory electronics.
Enthusiast II
Nice set up. Where did you get your wire? I like the jacket on it.If some of the accessories already have inline fuses then there isn't much point in double fusing them, and in fact it would make it more complicated to diagnose a loss of power.
If you want all your fuses in a centralized place you could cut off the inline fuses and run those accessories off similar sized fuses in your BlueSea fuse box.
Or, if you don't want to modify the wires or take up space in the BlueSea fuse box you could wire the 100A breaker to the positive terminal of the battery, and then hook up the protected side of the breaker to a buss bar. Your accessories with inline fuses would connect to the bus bar, and you could run a wire from the buss bar to your BlueSea fuse box.
This is how I have my Tacoma setup.
- 100A breaker fed from the battery. This shuts off all of the non-factory electronics on the truck.
- Breaker feeds a buss bar mounted to the side of the engine compartment.
- Buss bar powers...
- My ARB compressor (inline fuses)
- An 8AWG wire to the back of the truck (inline fuse)
- SPOD (inline fuse) which fuses/switches my other accessories.
Instead of a breaker you could also run a terminal post fuse which mounts directly onto the battery terminal. These are nice because there is no unprotected section of wire, but I prefer a breaker (with as short a wire as possible) so that there is a way to manually disconnect all of the non-factory electronics.
Thanks, it's just 8awg wire with braided sleeving on it and heat shrink on the ends.
Member II
You can get everything you need to have a nice clean look off of amazon. Invest in a heat gun for the heat shrink my harbor freight one has been going for 10 years cost me around 15 bucks. Attached is my H2 Aux system design
Attachments
Traveler III
Member II
I'm Using a 100ah AGM deep cycle Battey / Have a bluetooth connection to see Battery status from my phone
Attachments
Traveler III
I'm using the same CTEK sense module as well. I am considering an upgrade to the victron bmv-712 shunt. it looks fancy.
Do you prefer charging the AGM at 14.4 vs 14.7? My house battery is the factory Jeep starter battery from under the hood. When I installed the Genesis kit I threw it in back but noticed that it has a bright yellow sticker advising against charging at more than 14.4 even though it's an AGM. Just curious what your thought process was on that.
Member II
I hooked it up based off CTEK recommendations for a non smart alternator . In my opinion it really doesn’t need any more volts for charging . When I don’t use it for a bit I just pop the circuit breaker to the vehicle and let the solar keep it charged up .
Traveler III
AGM batteries require 14.7v at full charge for a long battery life. By limiting a charging profile to 14.4 it will never actually reach a peak charge and thus shortening the batteries lifespan.
The CTEK has a built in charging profile for AGM batteries but per our conversation he is not using it.
There are limited exceptions (such as my JLUR factory battery) state do not charge past 14.4 but they are rare. This is why I asked which battery he's running.
To each his own. Safe travels.
