Arctic adventures far below the freezing point

[El-Dracho]

Hi overlanders,

As some of you may have noticed, I was recently on the road again in the Nordic countries. What I have experienced there in the snow flurries, on icy roads and freezing cold, I am now happy to tell you. It is fun to share travel experiences with the community and to read from others. So, I will complete this travelogue little by little, as I have time for it. Stay tuned...

Bjoern

 

[El-Dracho]

I am driving through the night. It is pitch dark all around me. The wind blows the masses of snow across the narrow and winding road. There is a vehicle stuck in the roadside. Professional help is already on scene. For many, there is no going back and forth in this winter night. I have been following the snow plow for some time already. The spikes of the winter tires claw into the icy road and provide good grip. The snow appears glaring in the light of the headlights. Slowly, the feeling spreads that the constant blinking of the snow plow's orange beacon lights is burning into my retina.



What am I doing here? What has happened? Well, today is the day when a years-long dream came true. I reached the North Cape in the early afternoon. The North Cape is the northernmost point in Europe that can be reached by road from the mainland. The well-known landmark juts out into the Arctic Ocean here. From here the direct distance to the North Pole is only about 2,000 kilometers or about 1,250 miles.



Now, many of you will say, a trip here in the 21st century is nothing special in itself. That is true to a certain extend. About twenty years ago I was here once before. At that time with summer temperatures. But on this overlanding trip everything is different. During the 3,500 km / 2,200 miles up there, I have experienced temperatures down to minus 27 degrees C / minus 17 degrees F, frosty storms and meters of snow. And I have put the vehicle and myself through a lot. The reward for the exertions. In icy conditions I stand at the globe, the landmark of this geographically important point in Europe. Taking just a few photos there and already my fingers are so cold that operating the camera becomes almost impossible. The icy storm blows strongly. But I am happy about what I have achieved and a certain satisfaction sets in.



A little later I seek shelter from the icy storm in the lee of a wall and prepare myself for a frosty night. Just as I have made myself comfortable in the warming sleeping bag, I hear a loud honking. Well, what is that? In the frosty night I see a snow plow roaring up. The weather forecast changed massively and now does not promise anything good this night. The authorities expect the storm to intensify considerably. Winter strikes relentlessly. The whole place is evacuated as a precaution. Everyone must now leave the North Cape. That means packing up quickly and then lining up behind the snow plow truck in a convoy. I estimate in the dark of the night that about fifteen vehicles will arrive to escape the winter storm just in time. Until the convoy is lined up, I talk to the driver of the snow plow truck. The plan is to guide all vehicles safely to a turnoff some miles away. From there, the road to the south is currently still passable. However, it is uncertain how much longer...

 

[Coreymol]

Hi overlanders,

As some of you may have noticed, I was recently on the road again in the Nordic countries. What I have experienced there in the snow flurries, on icy roads and freezing cold, I am now happy to tell you. It is fun to share travel experiences with the community and to read from others. So, I will complete this travelogue little by little, as I have time for it. Stay tuned...

Bjoern

View attachment 225652

This is great can’t wait for more!!!

 

[El-Dracho]

This is great can’t wait for more!!!

Thank you! That makes me happy. I will continue to write more as soon as possible.

 

[OTH Overland]

Bjoern, Thank you for this thread, I have always had a soft spot for winter travel. You have taken some great photos, and tell a good story, I look forward to future installments.

 

[Gustavo Amaral]

GReat Bjoern!!! I'm anxious for more!

 

[Coreymol]

This is great can’t wait for more!!!

Thank you! That makes me happy. I will continue to write more as soon as possible.

Yes!!! Please do!

 

[El-Dracho]

A few days ago, I left comparatively spontaneously for this winter trip. The Covid 19 regulations have been almost lifted in the Nordic countries. The weather conditions are ideal. My winter tires with spikes are ready. So, everything is fine. If not now, when? I set off early in the morning. As I stroll to the car, it's still dark, but spring-like, and a few birds are already chirping here and there. A little later I'm on the highway. From now on there is only one direction: northward. It is about 1000 kilometers / 600 miles to the ferry port. I make fast progress on the German autobahn, pass well-known cities like Frankfurt am Main, Kassel, Hannover and Hamburg and am already in Denmark in the early afternoon.

A short document check at the border follows and I am back on track. In the evening I reach Hirtshals, a small harbor town in the north of Denmark. From here the ferries go to Norway and Iceland. I still have some time until the departure of the fast ferry, which will bring me to Larvik in southern Norway. But I already check in at the terminal, line up in the lane and look a little at the hustle and bustle in the port. Ports are always exciting. Ports have something about setting off on something new, on a journey. That's great.



Soon boarding begins and shortly thereafter the ferry departs. About 4 hours later the ferry reaches the port of Larvik in southern Norway. After another short customs check I leave the port. It is meanwhile 2:30h in the morning, the streets are empty. I have arranged with friends, with whom I will spend the next days. I am looking forward to that and am around 4h in the morning at their house. At this time, I will of course not wake anyone. I park the Landy, open the pop top roof and sleep in.



The next morning a big hello and extensive breakfast. After that we change the tires. From here on, the road and weather conditions in the direction of the north will become more and more wintry and I will drive several thousand kilometers on completely icy roads. Good tires are important and for me there is no way around studded winter tires. This not only makes driving safe, but it's also real fun to be out on the wintry roads. After a few beautiful days with friends, I continue on my way north. Quickly turn onto smaller roads and with each kilometer it becomes more wintry. Soon the landscape around me is completely white and the snow piles up right and left.



Suddenly something interestingly illuminated appears in the distance. Mmhh, what is that? As I come closer, I see it. A huge moose statue. Super cool illuminated in the darkness. I take a closer look. "The big silver moose" also known as "Storelgen" is the second largest moose statue in the world. Some of you may know the statue "Mac the Moose". It is the largest moose statue in the world and was specially fitted with larger antlers so that it would continue to hold that title. People do funny things. I look around for a bit and take numerous photos. While it is of course very crowded with people in the summer at this attraction, I am now all alone in the winter.





Later I continue and follow about 150 kilometers/ 90 miles the road RV3 to Røros. The city of Røros is a former mining town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Copper ore was mined here until the 1970s and the area is known for its harsh climate near the border with Sweden. Thus, Røros in Norway also holds a Norwegian cold record with a measured temperature of slightly below minus 50 degrees Celsius/ minus 60 F. Fortunately, it is not that cold at the moment. But it is wintry with a lot of snow and about minus 15 degrees C/ 5 degrees F. I look for a small campsite for the night and make myself comfortable in the Landy.

Satisfaction spreads as I look back on the beautiful day of travel and I look forward to the next day of the trip...

 

[El-Dracho]

Heavy snowfall has started overnight. Winter wonderland. As I look out of the poptop roof I see a fairytale winter landscape. How wonderful. For the next few days, the hood of my Landy always points north. The spikes claw their way into the completely icy roads and it's fun to cruise through the winter landscape. Inside the rig it is cozy, while the outside temperature gauge shows temperatures down to around minus 30 degrees Celsius/ minus 20 F. Here and there I make a stop, enjoy the peaceful winter landscape or a delicious coffee.



When I pass the Arctic Circle, it's already getting dark. Does not matter. The otherwise touristy Arctic Circle Center is closed at this time of year anyway and the heavy snow masses pile up meter high at the entrances. The last sunrays of the short day making up a great evening atmosphere.





Another highlight along the route is the Polar Park. I didn´t know about that before and hadn't planned to visit it. Even though I've been there many times in the summer. Suddenly a sign appears on the roadside "Polar Park" on the right. I just take a look at that. These are situations that make overlanding so interesting. You simply discover something on the map or a signpost and look spontaneously, what there is to see. No sooner said than done. Polar Park is the northernmost zoo in the world. Visitors can see wolves, bears, moose, wolverines, lynxes and many other animals. This is especially interesting now in winter. There is a special atmosphere in the park. Due to the size of 110 hectares/ 250 acres, divided into only twelve enclosures, the animals have comparatively much space. But it is not so easy to find and see the animals hiding form the harsh winter. Of course, you will not see the brown bears at this time. They are having their well-deserved hibernation. But the moose and arctic foxes are very curious, the reindeer are running around everywhere they like and I actually manage to catch a few photo-shy musk oxen in the distance with the camera lens.



Muskoxen are fascinating animals. They are well adapted to nature and somehow, with her shaggy thick fur and the long curved horns, they give the impression that they are from another world. I noticed this years ago when I visited the "Musk Ox Farm" in Palmer, Alaska. By the way, did you know that musk oxen have a negative food balance for about six months of the year. They are superbly adapted to the cold and draw on their fat reserves during the winter months. Nature is so exciting, beautiful and unique.



The onward journey is also exciting. Here and there a few snowdrifts but mostly it is windless and sunny. Further in the north, the temperatures fluctuate only just a few degrees below freezing point. Also, the next days the weather forecast states that it should remain like that. This seems to me as an ideal time to tackle the North Cape making a years-long dream come true…

 

[Coreymol]

A few days ago, I left comparatively spontaneously for this winter trip. The Covid 19 regulations have been almost lifted in the Nordic countries. The weather conditions are ideal. My winter tires with spikes are ready. So, everything is fine. If not now, when? I set off early in the morning. As I stroll to the car, it's still dark, but spring-like, and a few birds are already chirping here and there. A little later I'm on the highway. From now on there is only one direction: northward. It is about 1000 kilometers / 600 miles to the ferry port. I make fast progress on the German autobahn, pass well-known cities like Frankfurt am Main, Kassel, Hannover and Hamburg and am already in Denmark in the early afternoon.

A short document check at the border follows and I am back on track. In the evening I reach Hirtshals, a small harbor town in the north of Denmark. From here the ferries go to Norway and Iceland. I still have some time until the departure of the fast ferry, which will bring me to Larvik in southern Norway. But I already check in at the terminal, line up in the lane and look a little at the hustle and bustle in the port. Ports are always exciting. Ports have something about setting off on something new, on a journey. That's great.

View attachment 225999

Soon boarding begins and shortly thereafter the ferry departs. About 4 hours later the ferry reaches the port of Larvik in southern Norway. After another short customs check I leave the port. It is meanwhile 2:30h in the morning, the streets are empty. I have arranged with friends, with whom I will spend the next days. I am looking forward to that and am around 4h in the morning at their house. At this time, I will of course not wake anyone. I park the Landy, open the pop top roof and sleep in.

View attachment 226000

The next morning a big hello and extensive breakfast. After that we change the tires. From here on, the road and weather conditions in the direction of the north will become more and more wintry and I will drive several thousand kilometers on completely icy roads. Good tires are important and for me there is no way around studded winter tires. This not only makes driving safe, but it's also real fun to be out on the wintry roads. After a few beautiful days with friends, I continue on my way north. Quickly turn onto smaller roads and with each kilometer it becomes more wintry. Soon the landscape around me is completely white and the snow piles up right and left.

View attachment 226001

Suddenly something interestingly illuminated appears in the distance. Mmhh, what is that? As I come closer, I see it. A huge moose statue. Super cool illuminated in the darkness. I take a closer look. "The big silver moose" also known as "Storelgen" is the second largest moose statue in the world. Some of you may know the statue "Mac the Moose". It is the largest moose statue in the world and was specially fitted with larger antlers so that it would continue to hold that title. People do funny things. I look around for a bit and take numerous photos. While it is of course very crowded with people in the summer at this attraction, I am now all alone in the winter.

View attachment 226002

View attachment 226003

Later I continue and follow about 150 kilometers/ 90 miles the road RV3 to Røros. The city of Røros is a former mining town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Copper ore was mined here until the 1970s and the area is known for its harsh climate near the border with Sweden. Thus, Røros in Norway also holds a Norwegian cold record with a measured temperature of slightly below minus 50 degrees Celsius/ minus 60 F. Fortunately, it is not that cold at the moment. But it is wintry with a lot of snow and about minus 15 degrees C/ 5 degrees F. I look for a small campsite for the night and make myself comfortable in the Landy.

Satisfaction spreads as I look back on the beautiful day of travel and I look forward to the next day of the trip...

Absolutely love these

 

[El-Dracho]

The next day I am awake early. The last kilometers to the North Cape now lie ahead of me. The weather forecast continues to promise ideal conditions. That can change very quickly here in the north. But I am in good spirits and downright euphoric that soon a dream of many years will come true: the dream to reach the North Cape in winter. The road is now completely icy. With the studded tires, however, this is no problem at all and I am safely on the road.





As I head for a sharp right turn, I see an off-road vehicle stuck in the snow on the left. An employee of the nearby construction site is already on the spot and tries to recover with a pickup truck. This doesn't look good, so of course I stop right away and see if I can help. The recovery attempts fail. I try again with a kinetic rope and also the winch. No chance to get the rig free. It has slid at very high speed into a pile of snow that had previously been highly compacted by the snow plow and is stuck in it with a tight fit now. The masses of snow are so tightly packed that shoveling is no option. But help arrives in the form of a large wheel loader from the construction site. And so, I can continue my journey after exchanging a few nice words with the driver.





And just a few minutes later: I made it! The North Cape is reached! Emotions are high and the joy is great!







Now in winter there is a special atmosphere at this landmark. The twilight has set in already for a long time on this February afternoon and slowly the darkness breaks in. I enjoy the last rays of sun at the cape. Shortly before it is dark, my recovery rope has a job again. A small van has gotten stuck in the snow. It's no big deal and in no time the vehicle is free again.



Well, what happened next, you already know in part. Just before the convoy starts moving behind the snow plow, I use the time to talk to the driver of the truck. He gives me the tip that - even if it is late and dark - it makes little sense to spend the night at the place, where he will lead the convoy. It may well happen that the snowstorm gets even stronger and then the route will be closed for some time. He recommends to drive about 120 kilometers/ 75 miles further. I gladly accept this advice, thank him and cruise on through the snowy night after the end of the convoy drive. Now an anticipatory, careful and experienced driving style and very good lights are important...

 

[ChristelandChantal]

Wow! I so love this, beautiful scenery.

 

[El-Dracho]

Wow! I so love this, beautiful scenery.

Thank you!

 

[El-Dracho]

Meanwhile I am back from the 4x4 rhein-waal offroad and overlanding expo and have some time today to continue the travelogue.


The wind blows the snow over the narrow road. Now the many tunnels here in the far north are very welcome to me, they offer a little protection form the wather. By the way, the tunnels are equipped with a curtain system, which opens the entrance in winter only when a vehicle approaches. A practical thing now in winter.

In the meantime, the minute and hour hands of the on-board clock are creeping past midnight. Shortly afterwards, I reach my destination and look for a sheltered spot for the rest of the night.

The next morning the weather has calmed down a bit. But on the further way to Finland, I pass some snowdrifts again. The road is otherwise empty. Only a few reindeer are on the road on this wintry morning.





Today I will drive to the area around the Inari Lake. Lake Inari or Inarijärvi is a large lake in Lapland. With more than 3,000 islands the visitor has not the feeling to be at a lake, but rather at a waterway system. And yet it is the third largest lake in Finland and is still north of the Arctic Circle. Due to its northern location, it is quite possible that the lake is frozen at least in parts until almost the middle of the year.

In the region of Inari, I make a break from driving and put on my snowshoes. At the local campground I get a tip for a nice hike to a viewpoint. The path is marked with ribbons on the trees, but especially now in winter with a lot of snow everything looks the same and it takes special attention not to lose sight of the path.





The arctic regions have always fascinated me and so a visit to the Arktikum in Rovaniemi must not be missed on the onward journey. But first I cross the Arctic Circle southbound and then head for the museum. To be more precise, the Arktikum consists of two institutions: the Provincial Museum of Lapland and the Arctic Center.



Here the visitor learns, among other things, about the history of Lapland and the peoples of the north, their life and culture. After a few exciting hours in the museum, I drive a little further in the afternoon. More precisely to Kemi. There another dream will come true...

 

[astroflashjones]

Beautiful photos! You never know whats going to happen while traveling in winter. Seeing that oxen must have been really incredible.

 

[El-Dracho]

On this day, I'm up very early and frankly a bit excited. The last time I was in the small town of Kemi in northern Finland was about twenty years ago. A lot has changed since then, of course. But one thing has remained the same. Kemi is the home port of Sampo, an icebreaker from the 1960s. Sampo was already decommissioned beginning of the 1990s. Not because it is weak, but because it is too narrow to break a wide enough channel for modern container ships. The icebreaker Sampo is not weak at all. It is powered by four two-stroke diesel engines. In addition, there are several auxiliary power units. All together, they produce 8,800 horsepower. The propellers are ultimately driven electrically. The roundabout 60-year-old icebreaker is able to break ice up to 120cm thick. Impressive.



As I said before, I have been fascinated by the Arctic regions for a long time, and so I have been wanting to go on an icebreaker for a long time. So it is just fitting that today tourist trips can be made with the icebreaker based in Kemi. I actually manage to spontaneously get hold of one of the tickets.

The check-in for the trip is quickly done and so I have enough time to see another winter attraction: the snow castle of Kemi. The snow castle is built here every year since 1996. Every year with a different motto and different sculptures. This year's motto is: Happiness. This fits very well, as last year the Finns again proved to be the happiest people in the world in a survey.








After a short bus ride to the port, the time has finally come. There it is: the icebreaker Sampo. I go on board. Shortly thereafter, it is already humming, vibrating and rumbling, and the mighty hull is set in motion by several thousand horsepower. The icebreaker effortlessly makes its way through the frozen Baltic Sea. The ice thickness is about 40cm.





A special highlight on the way: the exit onto the ice. Now there is also the possibility to put on one of the red survival suits and float in the icy water. Of course, I don't miss that!



Later the icebreaker makes its way back to the port. A fantastic day, which I will remember with pleasure for a long time, comes to an end.

 

[El-Dracho]

Then it was time to be on the road again. So, I continue here a little bit with the travelstory.

And fittingly, the weather forecast for the center and south of Finland reports heavy snowfall and the road condition report does not look that ok for this day. Since I still got a place on the ferry from Turku to Stockholm for the late evening despite the beginning of the vacations in Finland, it is time to make miles. Around 6 o'clock in the morning I am awake and while at about minus 20 degrees celsius/ minus 5 F the diesel heating brings the engine on operation-friendly temperatures, I enjoy the first steaming cup of coffee of the day.

Shortly thereafter, I drive southward over wintry roads. Here and there the road is icy and partly also snow-covered. On the way something rather unusual happens. Anyone who has ever been on the road in Scandinavia knows that traffic jams - except in the big cities - are a rarity. But the winter weather causes accidents here as well and so I actually have a bit of a traffic jam on the way to Turku.





Great landscapes, exciting routes, interesting sights. All this attracts us overlanders again and again into the distance. And it's often the encounters with people that make traveling varied and enrich life. Often people make the journey memorable.

That's why I'm happy to meet Overland Bound member and overlander Jukka @JeeperFIN with his Jeep on this day. As a meeting point, we have agreed on a truck stop along the way. This might not be the nicest place for a meetup. But that is not the point at all. We make ourselves comfortable with a cup of coffee in the warm and chat for a long time about traveling, vehicles, countries and much more. Many thanks to Jukka for the coffee and the nice conversation.



Time to head for the ferry…

 

[El-Dracho]

It is still early in the morning when the ferry docks in Stockholm. After a few kilometers I turn onto a small forest path and find a nice spot by the lake. And what must not be missing, of course? First things first: a delicious cup of coffee. Now the day can begin.




I am also looking forward to today in particular. Around noon I meet @Bengt N , also Overland Bound member and based in southern Sweden. Bengt had contacted me through the forum here and we had agreed that I would contact him when I come to his area. No sooner said than done. We go for a little drive in the scenic area, taking small forest roads under the studs and admiring some of the beautiful little castles that are typical of the area west of Stockholm. A special highlight in the evening is the beer tasting with Bengt's own creations. Thanks for the great day!





The next day I continue south and after a while I can't believe my eyes. Where did the snow and ice go? The sun smiles from the clear blue sky. I take a little break at a forest clearing and what is that? The birds are chirping. It's actually spring in southern Sweden! I really like winter with lots of snow and ice and frosty temperatures. But the spring-like weather is also really cheerful now!

Today I'm going to see @Todd Jackson . Some of you probably know Todd from the virtual campfire Europe. A short time later we roll with our Landys over the bridge to Öland.



Öland is a Swedish island in the Baltic Sea. It is about 140km/ 85 miles long and almost 20km/ 12 miles wide at the widest point. Large parts of the island consist of a karst and heath landscape due to erosion. The island is also known for the large number of windmills that can be seen here. The island invites us to stay and thanks to Todd's excellent local knowledge we find a great spot directly at the sea. A short time later the campfire crackles and we exchange travel stories while listening to the sounds of the sea. Can life be better? Thanks, Todd, for the great daytrip!









This is a fantastic area and I will love to come back in the summer.

Now this winter tour is almost over. But only almost. For one thing, the weather is still coming up with something and I will spend some time with friends in southern Norway on the way back. After the sudden onset of spring, it looks like this the next day only a few miles away:

 

[Bengt N]

It is still early in the morning when the ferry docks in Stockholm. After a few kilometers I turn onto a small forest path and find a nice spot by the lake. And what must not be missing, of course? First things first: a delicious cup of coffee. Now the day can begin.


View attachment 227253

I am also looking forward to today in particular. Around noon I meet @Bengt N , also Overland Bound member and based in southern Sweden. Bengt had contacted me through the forum here and we had agreed that I would contact him when I come to his area. No sooner said than done. We go for a little drive in the scenic area, taking small forest roads under the studs and admiring some of the beautiful little castles that are typical of the area west of Stockholm. A special highlight in the evening is the beer tasting with Bengt's own creations. Thanks for the great day!

View attachment 227254

View attachment 227255

The next day I continue south and after a while I can't believe my eyes. Where did the snow and ice go? The sun smiles from the clear blue sky. I take a little break at a forest clearing and what is that? The birds are chirping. It's actually spring in southern Sweden! I really like winter with lots of snow and ice and frosty temperatures. But the spring-like weather is also really cheerful now!

Today I'm going to see @Todd Jackson . Some of you probably know Todd from the virtual campfire Europe. A short time later we roll with our Landys over the bridge to Öland.

View attachment 227256

Öland is a Swedish island in the Baltic Sea. It is about 140km/ 85 miles long and almost 20km/ 12 miles wide at the widest point. Large parts of the island consist of a karst and heath landscape due to erosion. The island is also known for the large number of windmills that can be seen here. The island invites us to stay and thanks to Todd's excellent local knowledge we find a great spot directly at the sea. A short time later the campfire crackles and we exchange travel stories while listening to the sounds of the sea. Can life be better? Thanks, Todd, for the great daytrip!

View attachment 227257

View attachment 227259

View attachment 227260

View attachment 227258

This is a fantastic area and I will love to come back in the summer.

Now this winter tour is almost over. But only almost. For one thing, the weather is still coming up with something and I will spend some time with friends in southern Norway on the way back. After the sudden onset of spring, it looks like this the next day only a few miles away:

View attachment 227261

Hi Björn
I must thank you to for taken your time to stopp by on vinter tripp
WBR
Bengt N

 

[Todd Jackson]

It was a pleasure meeting you Björn, I have a few more spots on Öland that we can visit the next time.

Cheers
Todd.