ARB fridge install?

[1Louder]

I just picked up a fridge at NWOR and I've been trying to figure this out. What deep cycle battery do you recommend that won't break the bank?

What vehicle do you have?
Define breaking the bank. I know that sounds silly but $200 is nothing for some a like a million for others. They typically run between $225-$300 depending on size.

This is the battery I have, X2 Group 27 Dual purpose ($319 but you can get 10% off 5 year FULL replacement warranty not pro-rated.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27agmdp

 

[VanDubs]

I have a '17 Tacoma. 200-250 is kind of the max that I would be able to go with.

 

[1Louder]

I have a '17 Tacoma. 200-250 is kind of the max that I would be able to go with.

The battery I have would work well. The more expensive the battery the better the warranty. A full replacement warranty is pretty good. If mine dies in 2 years I get another one for free. So in the long run it saves me money.

You want something in the 90-100Ah range. There is a Duracell which I think is a bit cheaper but the warranty is much shorter. There are no secret bargains for the better batteries.

I think this might be it: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli31dtmagmdc

BUT! You need to make sure the terminals are on the correct side or you will run into issues. On my Toyota positive is on the passenger side and towards the back edge of the battery. Your cables might not be long enough for this Duracell to work as the pictures shows.

 

[VanDubs]

Could I get away with a 100W solar cell and my start battery for now?

 

[1Louder]

Could I get away with a 100W solar cell and my start battery for now?

Yes, you will still eventually kill your starter battery. Probably just a bit slower though. As mentioned before with ANY single battery setup get a jumpbox as a backup. If you are camped in one spot for a couple of days and have solar running it should keep your battery topped up most of the day and into the early evening. Everyone just has to understand starter batteries are not designed to be drained over time. Period. Will it work? Of course! For how long? Who knows.

The good news is you will have a good solar setup for when you get a proper battery.

 

[VanDubs]

Yes, you will still eventually kill your starter battery. Probably just a bit slower though. As mentioned before with ANY single battery setup get a jumpbox as a backup. If you are camped in one spot for a couple of days and have solar running it should keep your battery topped up most of the day and into the early evening. Everyone just has to understand starter batteries are not designed to be drained over time. Period. Will it work? Of course! For how long? Who knows.

The good news is you will have a good solar setup for when you get a proper battery.

Thanks for all of the info...any suggestions on a decent/budget friendly solar cell? lol...sorry...mechanical I'm good with...electrical...not so much...

 

[Outdoor Steve]

For my solar. I am just going to pull the trigger and go with Goal Zero 400 lithium and their 100w folding panel.

 

[1Louder]

Thanks for all of the info...any suggestions on a decent/budget friendly solar cell? lol...sorry...mechanical I'm good with...electrical...not so much...

Renogy 100 Watt solar suitcase with controller.

 

[tbisaacs]

For my solar. I am just going to pull the trigger and go with Goal Zero 400 lithium and their 100w folding panel.

I have this setup, but with older non-lithium.

Renogy 100w > MC4 adapter > goal zero yeti 400 > ARB 50 via an 6mm ring connector that I spliced to the standard 12v fridge connector.

I ran my fridge in back of my hot rig for 4 days at NWOR and came home with my Yeti at 100%. I did not plug the fridge into my rig's 12v outlets at all.

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[Outdoor Steve]

I have this setup, but with older non-lithium.

Renogy 100w > MC4 adapter > goal zero yeti 400 > ARB 50 via an 8mm ring connector that I spliced to the standard 12v fridge connector.

I ran my fridge in back of my hot rig for 4 days at NWOR and came home with my Yeti at 100%. I did not plug the fridge into my rig's 12v outlets at all.

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Nice. Good info

 

[VanDubs]

So my truck battery is a group 24. All of these other batteries are group 27, so they probably won't fit my battery tray will they?

 

[VanDubs]

Will this fit in the stock tray? And is this a good choice?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-24m/sli24agmdpm

 

[1Louder]

Will this fit in the stock tray? And is this a good choice?

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-24m/sli24agmdpm

That is not a car battery but can work. Problem is it isn't in the 90-100ah range. You just need to grab a tape measure and see. Pretty sure my FJ was a group 24 and a 31 fit with some minor modifications.

 

[kentoe]

I have this setup, but with older non-lithium.

Renogy 100w > MC4 adapter > goal zero yeti 400 > ARB 50 via an 8mm ring connector that I spliced to the standard 12v fridge connector.

I ran my fridge in back of my hot rig for 4 days at NWOR and came home with my Yeti at 100%. I did not plug the fridge into my rig's 12v outlets at all.

This is literally one of the coolest things I've seen. Please help my wallet.

If I'm understanding correctly. You have a solar panel (Renogy), connected to an adapter (MC4 to 8mm adapter?), to power the goal zero to maintain power, to provide sole power to an ARB 50 fridge? What did you connect the fridge to the yeti with? Just the standard 110v plug? Getting confused by the splicing if that was between the fridge and the yeti or the solar panel and the yeti.

 

[utspoolup]

Keep it all DC, more efficient, and that is what he did as well. No AC involved.

 

[utspoolup]

FYI 8MM is the input, 6MM the output. You can buy the harness with the exact connection you want, it may just cost a good deal more. If you have access to anderson power pole or other connections of choice, you can build your own, but to get started you may spend ALOT of tools/ contacts/ plugs etc. Or you can go hybrid. Buy a cheap harness and hack it up to do what you want. Typically the cheaper middle ground for most.

I just mocked this up for showing an example. But there is a million ways to do this. Hope it helps

 

[tbisaacs]

FYI 8MM is the input, 6MM the output. You can buy the harness with the exact connection you want, it may just cost a good deal more. If you have access to anderson power pole or other connections of choice, you can build your own, but to get started you may spend ALOT of tools/ contacts/ plugs etc. Or you can go hybrid. Buy a cheap harness and hack it up to do what you want. Typically the cheaper middle ground for most.

I just mocked this up for showing an example. But there is a million ways to do this. Hope it helps

Exactly!

I bought this 6mm to ring terminal. http://www.goalzero.com/mobile/p/241/6mm-male-to-ring-terminal-adapter

Cut the rings off

Then I cut the cigarette plug off of a standard ARB connector and spliced it to the 6mm end of the ring connector.

For what is worth-I ran my fridge using the standard 110v cable plugged into the inverter of the yeti and it worked fine. But it drew 7w at idle. Running "native" 12v using the cable that I made only draws 1w when idle.


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[kentoe]

Fantastic explanations, thank you for all the advice. Good to know about the 7w idle on 110v vs 1w on 12v.

Does that mean that the solar panel / goal zero primarily runs and produces on 12v? Whereas the 110v requires more of a conversion for the Yeti to do?

 

[1Louder]

Fantastic explanations, thank you for all the advice. Good to know about the 7w idle on 110v vs 1w on 12v.

Does that mean that the solar panel / goal zero primarily runs and produces on 12v? Whereas the 110v requires more of a conversion for the Yeti to do?

On 110 the fridge sees no reason to conserve power. Hey I'm on 110! Let's party.

On 12v there is additional logic To Conserve power and also shuts off if Voltage gets too low.

Solar is replenishing the battery to keep it charged up. So think of the available amp hours pouring out one end like water as you are using the fridge. Solar is adding power back in like pouring water back into the tank.

 

[utspoolup]

The 110 has a Inverter to change the 12VDC to 110AC. This is a circuit card that does it thru a series of capacitor charge/ discharges, transformers, and other things All of this takes power to work and there is an efficiency loss as well. There is also usually a fan to cool the circuit in question which takes even more power. Thus my first comment of keep it all DC. It really is better in this application. I also have to say I hate you guys... well my wallet does. I just ordered this morning a yeti 400, some cables to mod, and a few other little things to experiment with. Oddly Goal Zero is sold out of nearly all cables. And if you find them on Amazon or ebay, they have increased in price like tickle me Elmo at Christmas. I got the last of the one I needed, and hit a few shops local to me (even Goal Zero is jsut 15 minutes away) and everyone had the same story. Have not seen them for almost 2 months. So.... be prepared to build something if you want it quick or have some serious cash to blow for no reason. Example in proof...

$14.99 here, back ordered for a while....
http://www.goalzero.com/p/261/mc4-solar-to-8mm-adapter-cable

$60.00 here, instock....

My stuff should be here Saturday. Ill get some shots of the modified cables for you if you like. I'm excited however.