3rd Gen 4Runner - Driveshaft replacement?

[youreupsidedown]

Hi all! First post here on OB...loving the community and the resources!

So I've got a 2001 4Runner 4x4, about 270k miles, that recently started a squeal/squeak from the rear end while in reverse. Quick look around some other forums leads me to believe that the rear u-joint is going bad, as this is apparently common with the 3rd gens. I talked to the only reputable driveline shop in my area, and they said they don't replace the u-joints only for the 4WD models, and would only replace the driveshaft as a whole unit w/ new components. So instead of a $50 u-joint replacement part, it's ~$700 for the shaft and install. So here's my question...

Money is kinda tight right now, even with that nice stimulus check that came through. When shelter-at-home orders are lifted, we plan on taking a 2-week long road trip around California parks - Yosemite, Redwoods, etc. - and doing some low-risk off-roading & camping (I have two young kids, so I'm not planning on doing any crazy rock crawling or stuff that would stress the rig too terribly much). In terms of vehicle functionality, how likely is it that my u-joint completely fails and I'm left stranded? Is it one of those things that will make an annoying noise but continue to function for a long time, or am I looking at needing to replace it before taking an extended trip?

Any advice would be much appreciated. This rig has been my introduction to more advanced car mechanics and maintenance; my knowledge before this was pretty much changing oil and tires Obviously the long-term solution is to just replace the driveshaft, but I'm trying to conserve funds for other things right now. Thanks!

 

[slomatt]

Did they explain why they only would replace the entire driveshaft? I replaced the diff-side u-joint in my rear shaft years ago and it has been fine. That said, at 270k the cv side could be getting old as well.

 

[youreupsidedown]

The guy I talked to seemed to think that if you're replacing the diff u-joint, the t-case isn't far behind. Here's what he said in his email to me:

"There’s actually not a reputable driveline shop that would try to repair the orig. c.v. head off the back of the t-case. No one makes any components for that anymore that have any integrity, hence why we convert to a Spicer assembly"

How hard was it for you to get the diff u-joint pressed out and the new one in? I watched a YouTube vid of a guy doing it, and he made it seem super difficult because of a slight angle to the outer part of the yoke, causing the press to slip...any pointers if I try to do it myself?

 

[Maverick9110E]

I don't know enough about the 4Runner to tell you if its just the beginning/indicative of an issue that will fail 30k miles from now or something sooner, but if you can do it yourself go for it. Otherwise, $700 is "cheap" insurance, especially with the kids when your 50 miles into the middle of nowhere and need a tow which will wind up costing you $500 or more. At 270K, maintenance items becomes like a car payment, start saving for the long to do list as things start needing attention.

 

[slomatt]

The guy I talked to seemed to think that if you're replacing the diff u-joint, the t-case isn't far behind. Here's what he said in his email to me:

"There’s actually not a reputable driveline shop that would try to repair the orig. c.v. head off the back of the t-case. No one makes any components for that anymore that have any integrity, hence why we convert to a Spicer assembly"

How hard was it for you to get the diff u-joint pressed out and the new one in? I watched a YouTube vid of a guy doing it, and he made it seem super difficult because of a slight angle to the outer part of the yoke, causing the press to slip...any pointers if I try to do it myself?

Their comment about repairing the CV end seems odd if your issue is with the u-joint on the diff end.

The diff u-joint is a bit of a pain to remove, to the point where I paid a local shop ~$30 to swap it out using their shop press. I tried to press it out using a bench vise and some large sockets but was not able to exert enough force.

 

[smritte]

270k miles can be a bit much on a drive shaft.
Transfer case wearing.....are you kidding me?
1. Did this person who advised you, test drive and diagnose this?
2. Did he at least have the driveshaft to tear down and diagnose?
At that mileage things are beyond their life span, he is probably covering his butt. It shouldn't cost you that for a total overhaul

If your mechanically inclined and have tools, you can replace U-Joints. Hell, I've replaced them for people while on trail rides in the dirt with just hand tools. Removing a driveshaft to be checked is a matter of a handful of bolts. They can be tight so be ready for that.

U-joints normally "chirp" at low speed and the sound increases with vehicle speed. Think angry sparrows. If your tires were noisy enough to cover that sound, now they clunk, then they break.
The slip yoke clunks changing from forward to reverse and back.
CV can do both but, it will start out as chirping.

If your going to pull the drive shaft, Slide under the vehicle, park brake on, vehicle in neutral, chock tires. Grab the shaft by one end, move up, down and twist back and forth. There will be some play in the transfer case while twisting. Your looking for movement in the slip yoke and u-joints.

When I had my Cruiser drive shaft rebuilt, they couldn't get Toyota replacement parts so i had to go Spicer. My slip yoke was work to the point of clunking and I did the U-Joints just because they were old. This was part of my base lining my Cruiser when I got it. It had 225K miles.

Your a bit far from me but I use Inland Drive Line.

 

[smritte]

EDIT: this is what I get for typing in a hurry before work.
Need to fix part of this.

To check the driveshaft in the vehicle. Slide under the vehicle, park brake on, vehicle in neutral, chock tires. Grab the shaft by one end, move up, down and twist back and forth. There will be some play in the transfer case while twisting. Your looking for movement in the slip yoke and u-joints.
To remove it is a handful of bolts. They can be tight. Toyota likes LocTite