2020 Tundra Starting the Build.

  • HTML tutorial

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

In March of 2020 My wife and I purchased a 2020 Tundra for no other reason than I needed a newer vehicle.

In 2021 we got a Leer Cap to enclose the bed after we were involved in a rollover accident in her Highlander, and we suddenly had different feelings about loose objects in the car. (We rolled 6-10 tiomes)

In 2022 we decided to take a cruise, and a road trip to see what vacation style we liked better. The road trip was a bit more fun.

So this year the build started.

Icon Stage 8
Method 301s in bahia blues
Toyo Open Country 35x12.50r18s
BMC chop
ICS Fab dash mount is in and being built, that will be installed shortly.

Not really sure where I go from here, I think from here out will be dictated by need rather than desire.
Dual Battery kit (researching) and ARB Lockers and 5.29s are the current itch. Likely, An ARB Dual Compressor is next.
 

Attachments

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

Well, starting to work on the ics center dash mount. Gotta find a method to mount the scan gauge three to a ram mount and that has been more challenging than expected.
I also had to melt the front bumper plastics a bit due to rubbing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dougnuts

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

Well, I figured to get some foundational pieces done.

SDHQ Terminals,
SDHQ Windshield wiper bottle relocation
SDHQ ARB Compressor mount.
 

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

I HATE electricity. It baffles me that I can touch metal on metal to a battery and not die. I am being ridiculous I know, but my heart was racing the entire time during this. The positive side sparked a few times and I thought I killed my truck. I dont understand electricity at all. Now that I am done being dramatic.

SDHQ battery terminals installed.

Negative off first, wrapped post in towel, and grounds in towel.

Positive off, and then both sides wrapped in towels.

Cleaned battery post with wire brush and dusted off battery gunk.

Negative on first, and then reinstalled factory wiring to the large bolt ontop.

The Positive wires are very tight, but it can fit.

The aftermarket positive and negative wires you see are for my ham radio.

Forgot the rubber covers, now I gotta work up the courage to do it again.
 

Attachments

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

Starting to work on the dual battery kit set up. Ill use the SDHQ battery tray kit and then some redarc products.

Pretty sure I got the fuses wrong for the SBI212D, they need to be 200 amp fuses.

This will give me the majority of what I want.

Trying not to hook up too much stuff in the meantime.

There is currently only a ham radio, but the future also holds a winch, GMRS radio (KG-1000g) a Sierra Wireless XR90, fridge and various lights. Dont want to have to rewire it all later for the second battery.


1685723271937.png
 

Attachments

Grendel

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,116
San diego
Member #

10959

Fellow Tundra owner here, congrats. I will offer one thing for advice The negative terminal should be first off/ Last on. I have heard of (ironically enough on a Tundra) people connect negative first then positive and it toasted their ECU (I think it was ECU anyway it fried some electronics, no fire though)
 

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

So in order to get a battery in there I need to move the steering reservoir. I have so far been unable to figure out what size hoses they are without removing them.

Also, just got a qoute for 5.29s and Eaton Lockers. Thats gonna hurt the bank a bit, but parts are ordered. More coming soon!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: AggieOE

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

In anticipation of gears and lockers going in I got the Sdhq switch panel and rcr force 12 installed 90% of the way. I have the wrong fuse tap for the ignition wire and I need to find a better way to route the power wire and it will be installed completely.71388255971__F17145FD-272D-4562-AE92-E9242DE67BEC.jpeg
 

Attachments

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

how does that switch panel work? I'm envisioning a bunch of wires fed through the pillar to above the headliner??!!!
From the Panel to the switch's is a 4 wire connector. I was not smart / talented enough to depin the molex 150 connector to make fishing through the firewall easier so I fished the end that goes to the switch panel through the firewall.

All of the accessories connect to one of two wire bundles that are plugged into the power distribution center that is installed near the battery. There are three total plugs / wire bundles.

1. from the Switch Pros power center to the switch panel. this is the only wire that comes in to the cab.
2. the 17 pin connector with 15 amp circuits and 1 30 amp circuit by combining 2 15 amp wires. This harness also holds the trigger wires and ignition wire.
3. 4 wire connector for 4 35 amp connections.

The big advantage of this panel is not needing a wire run through the firewall for every switch. All of my accessories (as long as they are under 35 amps) will now get connected to the switch pros unit.

the RCR force 12 has 12 buttons, there is a 8 button panel as well that is a bit less expensive.

If you have more questions please feel free to ask and I will do my best to explain, or even get photos if youd like.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scout

Scout

Rank V
Launch Member

Pathfinder I

1,798
Jamestown,NY
Member #

3609

NoMoreGreen, as it is now, I have pillar mounted ditch lights. This was my 1st add on I did a few years back. I also hardwired my ICECO JP40 behind my driver seat. For these 2 components, I ran wires through the firewall grommet below the master cylinder {2016 Tundra double cab}. I also have 2 additional wires fed through that grommet for future hook ups to the bed. The wires are in place but hooked to nothing at either end. I would like to have a hood bulge light bar and other offroad lights mounted up front. For whatever I run in the bed, I planned on using 1 or both of the wires I have pre run through the firewall, Soo, with all that, would it be possible for you to post a couple pics? With so many switch panels available, its hard to decide what route to go with.
 

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

That plate is made by SDHQ its part of this kit,


here is the plate by itself


Are you also in a tundra?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scout

NoMoreGreen

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Mckinney Texas
First Name
Robert
Last Name
Redacted
Member #

31723

and did you make the black trim plate or is it designed for that location in a Tundra?
Here is the front and back of the power distribution center. This is mounted in front of the driver side headlight right in front of the battery on the tundra.
 

Attachments

Scout

Rank V
Launch Member

Pathfinder I

1,798
Jamestown,NY
Member #

3609

That plate is made by SDHQ its part of this kit,


here is the plate by itself


Are you also in a tundra?

Yes.. I mentioned it above.. 2016 DC.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NoMoreGreen

Scout

Rank V
Launch Member

Pathfinder I

1,798
Jamestown,NY
Member #

3609

If the underhood mount HAS to be mounted in front of the battery, that won't work in my application as I have a Genesis OffRoad dual battery set up in the stock battery location and there is NO extra room there..
 
  • Like
Reactions: NoMoreGreen