2011 Xterra low lift w35s build and adventures

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TerryD

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It does. I have not verified accuracy, but it does change it on 2nd gens. Considering my rig has 4.11 gears and 35's the BDP is darn near a must just to get the shift points where they need to be.
View attachment 129561
What part # do you have? I don't see the BDX listed for an Xterra on their site?
 

The other Sean

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the M205 is a good idea. Even if you don't plan to Titan swap the suspension, the increased strength of the Titan diff is worth it. Plus the bolt on CV axles.

Side note, the 2.93 diffs are normally cheaper, since you are swapping gears, it shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get one of the newer 3 rib units.
 
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The other Sean

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I know the hype is bigger is better but having done 35s on a Wrangler and gone back to no lift and 7.50R16s..... I'd not recommend 35s or 33s or any of the popular options.

I just dropped from 33x10.50R15s to 7.50R16s. Way smoother ride. Noticeably better braking and from 17mpg to 22mpg. That gives me another 95miles of range between gas stations. I know, I'll get slagged for suggesting 33s, 35s are a bad idea but they are a bad idea. And on a Nissan with 3.69 ratios.... I'd call it undriveable unless you are in 4LO.

View attachment 129423
Keep in mind the Pro-4X Frontiers and Xterras come OEM on 32" tires and share the same chassis platform as the Titan which comes with 33's, so swapping to 33's is not really a big deal. The truck already has a Dana 44 rear and has more engine than your Jeep. Since they share the same platfom, there has been more than one discussion about the Frontiers and Xterras being overbuilt midsize trucks or the Titan being an underbuilt full-size.
 
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Smileyshaun

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the M205 is a good idea. Even if you don't plan to Titan swap the suspension, the increased strength of the Titan diff is worth it. Plus the bolt on CV axles.

Side note, the 2.93 diffs are normally cheaper, since you are swapping gears, it shouldn't matter. Just make sure you get one of the newer 3 rib units.

I think for the time being I will keep a eye out for one with 3.69 gears , need to keep my money into other life needs for now because if I’m doing gears I’m going to want to put a locker in the front while I’m at it .
 

Smileyshaun

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I know I keep putting the cart before the horse but a SAS keeps looming in my thoughts ...... no bad Shaun don’t make it another project , don’t make it another project
 
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TerryD

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I think for the time being I will keep a eye out for one with 3.69 gears , need to keep my money into other life needs for now because if I’m doing gears I’m going to want to put a locker in the front while I’m at it .
They never made a 3.69 M205 so they're rare. Be easier to find a 4.10 probably? They do come up with the ARB already setup though occasionally.
 
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Smileyshaun

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EDIT: Will move Bully Dog discussion to a different thread.

Digging your rig set up. Great job on the fenders. I like the way it's turning out.











It does. I have not verified accuracy, but it does change it on 2nd gens. Considering my rig has 4.11 gears and 35's the BDP is darn near a must just to get the shift points where they need to be.
View attachment 129561


You don’t have to move the discussion to a different thread I don’t mind my thread being clogged up with discussions on stuff it’s how we all learn.
 
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Smileyshaun

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Did a bit more reshaping and ordered a bigger set of front bumpstops and a set of 1”wheel spacers for the rear , hopefully after this I will be done with the front and can Concentrate on the rear 7B8B0C86-8752-4981-8E23-510C55EB3362.jpeg
 
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The other Sean

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Ab
Ahhhhhhh well then Yes I’ll maybe do a little more research when I get closer to buying LOL
Another tip when searching for the newer 3 rib version of the M205 is to look at Armadas and QX56's. Also, many of the older trucks had their front differentials replaced under warranty with the upgraded 3 rib unit. So, if you can see pictures of the unit listed and verify it is the 3 rib one, you are good to go. I got mine out of an earlier QX56 that had been replaced at some point. I had to have the JY who had it listed send me some pictures. I just trolled www.car-part.com for a few weeks until I found what I needed.

I think the 3 rib unit was put in the 08 and newer vehicles. But, again, if you are looking to gear swap anyway and your truck has 3.69 gearing, save your money and get a 2.93 unit those are always cheaper. Be careful though, as I hear the QX56's switched to the R180 differential that your truck already has. Not sure what year that was though.
 

Smileyshaun

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So In the front the only point of contact I have anymore under full stuff is the output of the wiper fluid , I’m hoping the new bumpstops will keep it off of there but I may need to lift the front a 1/4” also But that I’ll just take a little time cutting some metal to make spacers quick and easy fix.
914C1BAB-4630-46AC-9DB5-4AE9A243CBE4.jpeg
 

Smileyshaun

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Loaded up some cherry wood logs to take to my dads to process up into boards and blanks for some bowl turning and a good excuse to try out his new cordless chainsaw . I gotta say I’m kinda impressed got all this cut up on 2 batteries . Doing long cuts on logs really takes some effort but normal cutting it just flies through the cuts . May have to buy one myself to take on trips, be nice to not carry premix gas and smell the fumes . FB0F79EF-C2B7-463A-80AB-2B1813F9AFEB.jpegBEDE75AB-32F5-4666-94EB-C5CE28410074.jpeg
 

Smileyshaun

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Got the rear wheel spacers installed it definitely clears the frame now under full stuff but I would like to maybe pull the tire in a little bit more so I think I will get half inch wheel spacers down the road and put longer studs on the axle shafts plus I always feel like it’s safer to run a spacer with a longer stud rather than a bolt on spacer. 878EBF43-A769-4294-A1C8-52DC98F76C28.jpeg7F12FEA2-0EBB-4BC5-8E7E-6CE655E3441F.jpeg7AC4DBEE-39D2-4A30-98A8-8E1EAE3CE1D8.jpegCD1737A3-DE71-48C6-9AD3-19F782C9E9A7.jpeg
 
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The other Sean

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As long as you are running a quality Hub Centric spacer, there is no harm in it. Personally, I'd run the longer spacer that uses the oem studs to hold the spacer and has separate studs for the wheels than running longer studs and everything is held on like that.

I've got about 25K miles on my rear spacers (1.5" spidertrax) and have never had one lug loose each time I check during rotations (every 5k miles.)
 

Smileyshaun

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As long as you are running a quality Hub Centric spacer, there is no harm in it. Personally, I'd run the longer spacer that uses the oem studs to hold the spacer and has separate studs for the wheels than running longer studs and everything is held on like that.

I've got about 25K miles on my rear spacers (1.5" spidertrax) and have never had one lug loose each time I check during rotations (every 5k miles.)
I want a shorter spacer to pull the tire back inside the wheel well and the only way to run a 1/2” spacer is longer studs . You truly haven’t had a fun time in the shop until you’ve have a wheel stud spin inside the spacer creating all sorts of creative solutions and even inventing some new swear words lol . But this was on a crawler rig so it saw abuse that most normal vehicles wouldn’t.