2011 Nissan Frontier

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Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers


Note: The bike is a 2016 Honda Africa Twin, currently with 25k miles. I’ve recently moved into the retirement phase after 30+ years in the fire service. So, the plan is solo miles on the bike, and finish the truck as our “overland” adventure rig. I have air bags in the back to help with the weight, but they are not charged in the current picture. Truck would handle just fine with the 600lb bike back there. Several trips to/from Seattle & Bend, OR. There is a canopy mounted now, so the bike gets used as designed

I’m the original owner, currently at 110k miles. Over the years, I’ve lurked on this and various other forums and have done several of the common mods. When it was new I had a Kenwood DNX9980HD, along with a rear seat DVD display, backup camera, and alarm system installed.

I’ve been faithful and overly diligent with maintenance. Oil changes every 5k; @ 25/50/75k did “major” routine maintenance as well. At 100k I debated about selling and moving to the ZR2 Bison, but decided I really like the Frontier. So, went through bumper-to-bumper including timing chain/guides; all fluids/hoses; water pump; belts; plugs/coil packs; etc…

I’ll continue posting additional threads with the recently completed work, as well as the upcoming plan.

Thanks to all who have forged through the hard work of research, trial/error, answered questions on the forum boards and provided detailed guides.

Looking forward to sharing...
 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
Over the last month, I've had some time to do some work, so I'll catch up this thread with those details:

White Knuckle Slider Install (~couple months ago):

I had originally ordered as powder coated, but my “guide” advised to get bare steel, and I could use the sliders as holding tanks for air. Previous picture shows them loaded in the trailer headed to get coated. Here a couple installed pictures.




Air fitting installed. I have the dual compressor ARB ready to mount, perhaps in the next couple weeks? Both sliders will be tied together, and I estimate around 3-5 gallon “tank”.

 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
A.R.E. DCU canopy painted to match the truck with double doors in back and window/doors on the side. This was a brutal expense, but once I decided to abandon the alternative truck plans...I committed (in my mind) to stay with a Frontier platform for some time.




The stock rack will come off this summer and a custom one built in its place that will match the horizontal lines of the rack I build for the rear. The plan is to purchase/install a Bundutop RTT. My current thoughts are 1x3 steel post that follow the vertical lines of the canopy at the four corners, with plates mounted under the canopy. The trick will be to build it so it comes apart. Cardboard mockups after I have the design figured out in my head/on paper. Target date for this part of the project is August.




I have some 8020 T-Slot material to build a shelf that will circle the inside of the canopy aprox 10” from the ceiling; either 270 or 360 degrees, along with an enclosed shelf on the drivers side. That should be completed by the first week of June. Then, a dual drawer system for the floor area similar to this design:



Between the tent and kitchen system (the entire build) I’m hoping to have camp setup/broke down in a 10-15 minute window. So, spend hundreds (?) of hours now, to save time later! For the month of October I’m hoping to test the setup/system at hunting camp.
 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
TRANSMISSION:

The truck will be loaded pretty heavy, and I expect some work on the transmission. A simple drain/refill (4qts) is routinely done to help keep the fluid clean. I’ve ran the wire to install a temp. Gauge (8 conductor for additional needs). The gauge has an auto on/off for the fan built in as well. Today’s job was installing the filter. I know it could be argued that it serves little purpose, but I feel better about having it installed.

Fan installed over the factory cooler. And a little paint to clean up 10yrs/110k mi of work.





Round One: Parts, fittings and tape. This did not work, and had leaks all over, so round two was different parts, fittings, and (name?) joint compound with no leaks.



No Leaks!



 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
I purchased the console dock station and external GPS through another user. I’ve searched for one of these for years. I’m a gadget guy, but prefer to have everything tucked away.





And painted the rear axle, along with most of the frame and metal I could get to under the truck. I taped a bit, and used cardboard as a shield to block what I could not tape. Also put a coat of rust encapsulator as a base coat.

 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
Nisstec MK84 front coilovers installed today, along with the UCA. Had a friend help, whose mechanical skills are much higher than mine. Driver side took ~two hours, and the passenger side about an hour. I should have reviewed the forum boards last night, instead of working through the problems that others have already posted solutions to. I went with the 650lb springs, with the weight being added to the truck. First big trip with the truck will be a month at hunting camp in October. Hoping the suspension does not turn into a chase for perfection.

I was going to hold off on replacing/upgrading the rear setup, but I think I’ll do in the near future and pay for the alignment once.




The front is now riding about 2” higher, and the rear springs are shot, so I’ve got an opposing rake. I can pump up the airbags to level things off, but they will only hold air for a few days. New rear setup is on order, about three weeks out (end of June?)
 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
Current today:

There are pros and cons of a dysfunctional, near psychosis OCD. So, these dozen 8020 aluminum extrusions took ~40 hours to build out the interior organizational structure.





As other builders of the 8020 systems have noted, “it’s taken apart, put back together”. Forgot a needed nut/bolt and one quickly finds the disassembly process occurring, yet again. The frame travels along the canopy shell with a smaller diameter material. This would catch me at the end with a new problem that will need fixed.

The lift made easy work under the canopy. In exchange for long term shop access at a friend's place, I’m faithful about keeping regularly used items stocked (gloves, towels, water, beer, etc), along with taking care of the garbage and keeping the shop “garage clean”. I try to add something of value after each use as well; fixing leaking air fittings, organizing tool boxes, etc. Years ago, I ate the last ice cream bar in the freezer at work (ice cream is a known shared commodity) and a Native American friend was mad as a hornet. I told him he had the “I hate the white man eyes” on me... He made it clear that I was a “taker”. So, I brought in a box and put his name on it and made sure he reclassified me as a “giver”. I really appreciate the use of this work space!

The canopy doors are set up on the trucks lock system, which makes it convenient to push the keyfob and have 8 doors locked. However, the wiring was bundled and not clean. So, after the 8020 material started to take shape, I cut the zip ties and started figuring out the wiring runs. I think I added a mile or so of wire. “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing….”



Driver side shelf unit (no passenger side). I’ve been debating about how/where to store the Ryobi batteries. The overall collision of conflicting goals: organization, function, efficiency, and reasonable cost all trying to find a place in my mind.



Not pretty yet, but starting to come together. The upper shelf runs 360 degrees about ten inches below the ceiling, and around 6” wide. This is designed to store the storage boxes. OCD side.



Up top you can see the box organizers, which hold the boxes to organize the boxes. Completely ridiculous. Watch me turn the truck into an Excel spreadsheet! They are small size plastic ammo cans that actually sit upright, just resting in the picture. The lip on the bottom of the box should keep everything in place, and a bungee was added to each storage area to provide redundancy.

To the right is the junction area for the wiring, and is where the Goal Zero (G0) will sit.



I’m making the wiring plan way too complicated, but from a functional standpoint I want simplicity when out travelling. An incoming shore power port is set up in this same corner, which travels to an automatic switch (shore/inventor). The shore power lands in a junction box, with the G0 110v charger connected to shore power. The only time the 110v G0 charger will turn on is when I’m connected to shore power (automatically, but the chargers on/off switch is easy to access).

Aslo, coming in from the outside is a port for the solar. I anticipate 200w of panels mounted to the rooftop tent. The third charging system will be off the alternator. There will be a CLA port that connects to the truck battery and will provide ____w while the truck is running. All of these systems are tucked away in the bottom corner below the G0. It’s modular enough to quickly disconnect and move the G0 and chargers to another location/vehicle.

There are four systems that I wanted to isolate from the G0 inverter, and primarily use 110v when connected to shore power. The fridge in the cab, ryobi batteries, future drawer slide fridge in the canopy, and potential/future engine heating systems (oil pan, block, battery) for cold weather environments. These items route to 110v switches which I can turn on/off depending on power source needs. The goal being for the G0 to power needed items off its battery source, not the inventor.

I have several layers of security for when the truck is parked short/long term and we are away. I’ve had a truck stolen before, along with all of my work tools while building our house. That was a painful experience that took an inordinate amount of time to replace items, in the middle of a compressed time project. Hopefully, I can help avoid that by providing disensitives to the inviting target. Leaving a backpack in the backseat invites trouble. Goal Zero, 12v fridge, etc feels like silver flashing. Nothing of value will be “snatch and go”, including the truck.
 

Contributor I

60
Seattle, WA, USA
First Name
Ron
Last Name
Powers
There are pros and cons of a dysfunctional, near psychosis OCD. So, these dozen 8020 aluminum extrusions took ~40 hours to build out the interior organizational structure.





As other builders of the 8020 systems have noted, “it’s taken apart, put back together”. Forgot a needed nut/bolt and one quickly finds the disassembly process occurring, yet again. The frame travels along the canopy shell with a smaller diameter material. This would catch me at the end with a new problem that will need fixed.

The lift made easy work under the canopy. In exchange for long term shop access at a friend's place, I’m faithful about keeping regularly used items stocked (gloves, towels, water, beer, etc), along with taking care of the garbage and keeping the shop “garage clean”. I try to add something of value after each use as well; fixing leaking air fittings, organizing tool boxes, etc. Years ago, I ate the last ice cream bar in the freezer at work (ice cream is a known shared commodity) and a Native American friend was mad as a hornet. I told him he had the “I hate the white man eyes” on me... He made it clear that I was a “taker”. So, I brought in a box and put his name on it and made sure he reclassified me as a “giver”. I really appreciate the use of this work space!

The canopy doors are set up on the trucks lock system, which makes it convenient to push the keyfob and have 8 doors locked. However, the wiring was bundled and not clean. So, after the 8020 material started to take shape, I cut the zip ties and started figuring out the wiring runs. I think I added a mile or so of wire. “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing….”



Driver side shelf unit (no passenger side). I’ve been debating about how/where to store the Ryobi batteries. The overall collision of conflicting goals: organization, function, efficiency, and reasonable cost all trying to find a place in my mind.



Not pretty yet, but starting to come together. The upper shelf runs 360 degrees about ten inches below the ceiling, and around 6” wide. This is designed to store the storage boxes. OCD side.



Up top you can see the box organizers, which hold the boxes to organize the boxes. Completely ridiculous. Watch me turn the truck into an Excel spreadsheet! They are small size plastic ammo cans that actually sit upright, just resting in the picture. The lip on the bottom of the box should keep everything in place, and a bungee was added to each storage area to provide redundancy.

To the right is the junction area for the wiring, and is where the Goal Zero (G0) will sit.



I’m making the wiring plan way too complicated, but from a functional standpoint I want simplicity when out travelling. An incoming shore power port is set up in this same corner, which travels to an automatic switch (shore/inventor). The shore power lands in a junction box, with the G0 110v charger connected to shore power. The only time the 110v G0 charger will turn on is when I’m connected to shore power (automatically, but the chargers on/off switch is easy to access).

Aslo, coming in from the outside is a port for the solar. I anticipate 200w of panels mounted to the rooftop tent. The third charging system will be off the alternator. There will be a CLA port that connects to the truck battery and will provide ____w while the truck is running. All of these systems are tucked away in the bottom corner below the G0. It’s modular enough to quickly disconnect and move the G0 and chargers to another location/vehicle.

There are four systems that I wanted to isolate from the G0 inverter, and primarily use 110v when connected to shore power. The fridge in the cab, ryobi batteries, future drawer slide fridge in the canopy, and potential/future engine heating systems (oil pan, block, battery) for cold weather environments. These items route to 110v switches which I can turn on/off depending on power source needs. The goal being for the G0 to power needed items off its battery source, not the inventor.

I have several layers of security for when the truck is parked short/long term and we are away. I’ve had a truck stolen before, along with all of my work tools while building our house. That was a painful experience that took an inordinate amount of time to replace items, in the middle of a compressed time project. Hopefully, I can help avoid that by providing disensitives to the inviting target. Leaving a backpack in the backseat invites trouble. Goal Zero, 12v fridge, etc feels like silver flashing. Nothing of value will be “snatch and go”, including the truck.



Upper shelf 90% complete. I forgot to account for the rear door locking mechanism. Build, modify, maintain, fix, repair, upgrade and the cycle continues.
 
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