So here's what he pointed to as a possible culprit in the drive shaft. IDK if it's a support or a bearing or a U-joint type thing. I'll take a closer look at it later. 
2010 Pilot Lift Kit Problems - HELP!
- Thread starter Skipnoid
- Start date
Carrier bearing?
I need to replace mine on my truck, been too lazy but only takes a few minutes.
That steady bearing, the rear dif, front joint are all completely stock and none of those parts have moved from stock. It would be odd for that to be the problem. But I would definitely think the steeper angle for the half shafts could be the problem. Unless someone builds half shafts with joints capable of steeper angles I'd think the only solution is dropping the front and or rear dif. Something often done with other vehicles. Wranglers use a 2" motor mount lift to counter the steeper rear driveshaft angle after a lift.
Is the vibration in the front or rear?
If the steady bearing were the problem it should have been there before the lift too.
Have looked online to see if anyone makes half shafts for a lifted Pilot.
Are there other lifts out there for the Pilot? What are the differences.
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I'm still trying to understand the reasoning to this. the differentials were NOT moved in the vehicle. the only thing changed was spacers placed on top of the struts. The only thing changed is the angles the CV axle needs to move between the differential housing and the hub at each wheel. I'm still wondering if you have added more height than the CV's can accommodate and you are getting a bind as they rotate. I assume the Pilot is a car based platform? I wonder how much wheel travel is built in from the factory. By adding the spacers, you take up 2" of that amount.
When I had a spacer lift on my truck, when you would jack up the front suspension, the wheel would only drop about 2" before it would top out.
If you have the ability, I would jack up the front of the vehicle, pay attention to how far the wheel droops before stopping. then with the vehicle in neutral, I'd spin the wheel, possibly also with it turned right and left to see if you hear/feel any binding of the axle.
Also, do the CV's pop in to the differential or bolt on to the side? with the added lift, is it possible the CV's are too short and are being "pulled" apart as the vehicle runs down the road? Since you brought the wheels down in relation to the differential, that distance between hub and differential is now increased. Even if it's only a little, it might be causing issue.
While your carrier bearing may or may not be worn, it was NOT modified in any manner during the lift. You need to NOT fall prey to "throwing parts" at the vehicle and concentrate on areas that WERE MODIFIED in the lifting process.
I agree that the steady bearing (thanks for the name) probably didn't move from its original position. The axle angle change is what makes sense to me.
Shoot ... how did you correct it? Or did you? Do you just live with it and run OEM axles till they break?I had a lot of axle vibration :)
Your axle vibration is caused by cheap replacement axles. I went through this same exact secnario last year. The only way to get rid of it is to use your factory axles. If you have your old axles, clean,repack and reboot them. Your vibs will be gone. All of the replacement axles are cheap Chinese junk unless you buy genuine Honda or the high end racing ones.
I'm running a CRV with 2" of lift and no vibs.
I'm running a CRV with 2" of lift and no vibs.
Probably can expect some increased wear on drive axles whenever lift kits are installed on IFS vehicles like the Pilot but having issues immediately after installation is unusual. Either the original axles were already worn or the installers had issues and now compounded by non-oem drive axles which have a known reputation to cause issues.
Explorer I
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I really hope you are able to discover a solution to this. I agree with all of the members that have mentioned drive line angles. You stated the vibration is during acceleration. So, NOT at any particular speed range? Just when accelerating? If so, then I would agree with @OffroadRD-1 .
This is one of the inherent problems with attempting to upgrade a non-typical vehicle. Yes, there is something to be said for making what you have do the job. But when asking a very light duty vehicle to do the job of a vehicle that was factory built to endure the added abuse off road use, things are going to break and wear prematurely, which in turn will require more maintenance and repair, that can far exceed the cost of investing in another rig. I know this does not help you in the current moment, but it is a point to be considered by all.
This is one of the inherent problems with attempting to upgrade a non-typical vehicle. Yes, there is something to be said for making what you have do the job. But when asking a very light duty vehicle to do the job of a vehicle that was factory built to endure the added abuse off road use, things are going to break and wear prematurely, which in turn will require more maintenance and repair, that can far exceed the cost of investing in another rig. I know this does not help you in the current moment, but it is a point to be considered by all.
Educator I
A Company like Big O is a sister company of Tire Kingdom. All these companies are buying rebuilt axles from Advance Auto Parts which all require a core charge unless you turn in the old ones. I really highly doubt they gave the axles to the scrap guy. From the start knowing I was just BS'd by the service guy would definitely not sit right with me when he could have just been real and said they are turned in as core's if not you pay about $40 more per axle. Secondly any chain lube shop like Big O has absolutely no idea what they are even doing when it comes to adding lift products to your car. They sell tires, brake jobs, shocks and basic PM stuff, It's like going for a boob job @ Jimmies Chicken Shack, Def not the place for it. They are NOTORIOUS for preying on unsuspecting folks to replace parts that don't really need replacing because the techs and the service writers all really bank roll flat rate commission hours. The Honda Dealership is probably as insightful as the chain lube shop because they've been programmed to think if it didn't come with the vehicle its the devils working just about so they'll be just as clueless to any of it as the chain shop. a 4x4 shop who specializes in lifts and suspension angles on a daily is going to be your best bet. I definitely think cheap axles would cause a vibration, poor driveshaft loop centric bearing would also cause the vibration but like some of the other members have said the change in driveline angles may be the culprit. We had a 2005 Pilot EX-L that we used to take wheeling all the time but never had it lifted. I couldn't find a justification to spend that much money on just spacers. She does look good with the added lift, definitely digging her. I don't think the axles per say may be the issues because most of the rebuilt stuff is an OEM axle that has just been rebuilt but definitely check the angles and look into the center bearing, its an easy replacement you can most likely do yourself if you have some tools.
I understand that. I wish I could get my original ones back, but I can't. But just so I'm understanding you:
You DID get vibration on acceleration with non OEM axles?
You DON'T get vibration on acceleration with Honda axles?
So what happened to your original axles?
Thx.
Pull that crap lift. Talk to your Honda dealer. Book onto some Honda Forums. BUY what IS recommended. Quit throwing time and money into the pit.
Thanks Karnak, lol. I haven't blamed anyone for anything. Just trying to work a problem if it can be worked. Tried to do something fun and easy to breath some new life into my 10 YO rig and it was a mistake. Lighten up, brother.
