2006 Dodge 1500 Megacab 5.7L

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jakeandhisdodge

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Ok, so this is my first thread. If i butcher this, please forgive me.

So i have a 2006 dodge megacab 1500 5.7L hemi slt
cool.jpg

The most common question i get from people is why i put 1500 badges on a 3/4 ton truck...I didn't, that's how dodge made these trucks. From 2006 to 2008 dodge made the megacabs on the 2500 chassis, thats because they needed a "heavy duty" half ton and they weren't quiet sure if this truck would sell. I mean if you look at the bad points, the blind spots are huge and the truck weighs just under 7,000lbs. And i'm not talking about just the rear blind spots, people disappear behind the A pillars all the time and i'm looking like ace venture bouncing around in the driver seat trying to see the clueless dimwit that's stepping off the curb without looking up from their phone. The 06s had some nice new features but nothing to wow you on the slt package. so since they didn't want to put the r&d into an independent front suspension for a 1/2 ton version and make a separate solid axle 3/4 ton diesel version, they said " just take the 05 3/4 ton frame and and suspension and add an extra body mount and do the r&d on the body" so what you were able to get for 2 years was a 1500 with aam 10.5 straight axles, and a 5.7L with no egr or multi cylinder shut off and gets 10mpg. BUT, what you also got and everyone forgets, is you get a front end that was designed to carry an 1,100lb cummins diesel. so when you have a gas v8 thats in the ball park of 350lbs, you have an over engineered suspension to handle it. the stock ball joints and tie rods were still tight as all get out and were far far far off from needing replacement. "how do you know they were stock?" because my dad and i have been doing all the needed maintenance to it since it was new.

My dad bought this truck in 06, new off the lot, for a little over $36k, because my brother and I are both 6'5" and no other back seat gas engine truck could come close to this comfort level. My dad was tired of me pushing my knees into his back seat, i called it lumbar support, he called me a disappointment. So after we all grew up and moved out and started our own lives, my dad still had this truck and just drove it to work and home, that was it. it's done a bunch of road trips across the U.S. and taken really good care of us all while being very reliable and cheap to maintain, but they have an ecoboost f150 they drive more and gets better mpg. So when i told him i wanted to buy it from him in 2017, he said sure, i flew down to Texas from Virginia, and picked up my new to me truck. We originally bought it in Wyoming. so theres the story i love telling and people hate hearing, look at my cool axle swap.

Screenshot_20191101-202644_Facebook.jpg

Power wagon axles and leafs for one hell of deal in NC, 6 hour drive down and a chat with a nice lady that parts out dodges and i got my new set up. PW axles come with 4.56 gears and electric lockers, so super cheap off road goodness for me, like i mentioned my truck uses all 2500 suspension and drive train components. so this is a bolt in swap

lady.jpg
Shes driving through the woods to pull the axles out of the bushes they've been sitting in for 3 years or so.

rear before.jpg
rear AAM 10.5


front before.jpg
front AAM 9.25

they've been sitting in the garage for over a year at this point and i've finally got all i need to do the swap so i wire wheeled them down and got ready to por 15 them

front locker.jpg
front looks good, time to blast them with some parts cleaner and clean all the magnets off

rear locker.jpg
rear locker

painted.jpg
so much over spray, i am not a professional painter by any means, but its tough stuff and looks legit.

on our way to shop.jpg

all loaded up and off to my buddys shop to put them in

all parts.jpg
forgot to mention i got the PW leafs as well, these will lift the rear 2" over stock, so its the same height as the 2500 version but the load limit is lower since the are PW leafs.

lg front pulled.jpg
hey that was easy, pulled and prepping the new axle by swapping on the brakes and making sure everything else is good. Note how small the 1500 springs are.


cam.jpg
new axle in with my best friend and shop supplier Cam, if it wasn't for him i would've been doing this in the driveway and would've been screwed! always have good friends on your side

jr doing work.jpeg
putting my brother in law to work, 18years old and trying to get in the diesel mechanic field, after today he's not as excited about doing it full time. I'm trying to convince him to become an electrician instead, I was a heavy diesel mechanic in the air force for 7 years and even though im only 28, I'm in pain a lot of the time and constantly having to watch my posture and lifting techniques.

driver done.jpg
klm steel braided brake lines

passenger done.jpg
see how much bigger the springs are? they're 2" lift springs for the diesel version, no one makes lift springs for the gas so it might sit a little nose high. i might get a synergey 1" rear raising shackle later on. but for now it'll be fine. DO NOT USE THESE COILS!!!! Ok so I thought I would be able to use these on they would work alright, turns out rough country coils have the flex of an I beam and since these are for the cummins model it made it even worse. i thought this would work because synergy mfg said on their site that if you have a gasoline mega cab, you need to use their diesel lift springs. So i thought it would be the same here, it was not, they gave me 3.5" of lift and wrecked my shocks. I'm convinced these also cause some mechanical problems since the control arms couldn't cycle properly and the ride was too stiff. stock control arms are good to 3" of lift, past that and a long arm kit, or longer control arms are needed. So instead of cycling, they just kept jamming into the frame like a stabbing motion, couple that with the little to no flex and it was a bad ride. Go with thuren fab instead, their xs coils lifted it 2.5" over stock and were a huge improvement. and i used their overland shocks as well and they are great for what they are and the price.

rear pulled.jpg
rear pulled, some may be asking how i'm using the same shocks with the 2"lift? i bought billstein shocks that are able to work with 0-2.5" lift kits.

done .jpg
running out of time sunday night, couldn't take picks of the install, but thats the new one in there.

wtf front.jpg
the alignment shops attempt at setting up the steering, i gave them a great set of instruction right off the website for the synergey mfg heavy duty steering. but i guess they didn't want to read it and i was promptly told that "its aftermarke, thats not our fault"

installed front.jpg
the proper way the steering should be, you can see where my steering stabilizer was binding on the bar. heim joints for my sway bar are a little cock eyed. i actually have a power wagon disconnecting sway bar im going to be installing. just trying to find a way to remove the computer with the electronic disengagement device. i'm going to try a rubricons smart bar delete and see if i can get it to work with the pw bar, or use it as a template to have a machinist i know make me a custom one.

installed rear.jpg
rear end, we couldn't get the old brake line from frame to axle off yet and i had to drive this to work so we are going back at it at a later date. we'll also weld on some bolts so we can bolt the lines from caliper to axles up higher. Rancho sent me the wrong U bolts so thats why theres a stack of washers under each nut. new ones just got here today so should be a quick swap. (Check out the original 06 spare tire, might have to swap that out soon lol)

loaded.jpg
this truck lives to haul bikes and fun weekend stuff, so everything i'm doing will hopefully make it where i can take it further out on the trails before braking out the dirt bikes, i just got a new ktm 300xcw though, soooo i might not make it too far before i break that out. (stock before swap)

at home done.jpg
how she sit now, i have a new set of 35/12.50/17s i just haven't got the chance to mount and balance yet.

cam and mandy.jpg
and again, thank you to my bff cam and his beautiful wife mandy for letting me use his shop and helping me for repayment in beer. (me in background explaining whats for dinner)
 

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jakeandhisdodge

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Jake
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Ten Eyck
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20191110_165737.jpg
added a steering box stabilizer and did an adjustment on it. only needed to turn in the adjustment 1/4 turn and now the truck steers a lot better down the road and doesn't drift in the lane so much.
 
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Alpha Out Front

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Thats a pretty cool axle swap. Also crazy that they put 1500 on a megacab. So maybe I missed it but did you get those E lockers wired up? As far as that PW sway bar disconnect goes, I know EVO (Off road Evolutions) makes a kit for the jeep disconnect to convert them to air operated, I have no idea if works on the PW disconnect but might be worth looking into or grab a Carli torsion bar.
 
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jakeandhisdodge

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Ten Eyck
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So maybe I missed it but did you get those E lockers wired up? As far as that PW sway bar disconnect goes, I know EVO (Off road Evolutions) makes a kit for the jeep disconnect to convert them to air operated, I have no idea if works on the PW disconnect but might be worth looking into or grab a Carli torsion bar.
So i haven't wired them up yet due to weather and time, i have time/cold and rainy, i don't have time/sunny and cool. Seems to be the way it goes during this season. I do have the pigtails for the lockers and i have a relays and switches and wire so I'm trying to do it soon.

For the disconnect I'm gonna use EVOs manual disconnect, ive found pw forums where people have used one they said the got from evo but evo told me they've never made one. So I'm guessing the rubricons might work and if it doesn't then I'll take it to my machinist friend and ask him to make it work.

I like the torsion bar, but i got the pw sway bar in the axle deal so I'm trying to save some money and make that one work. Thanks for the interest and help!
 

jakeandhisdodge

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So i got my tires mounted, 35x12.50r17, on my stock wheels. They rub the control arms just a hair at full lock. I planned on getting different wheels in the future anyways, but if you're fine with that then you shouldn't have to worry if your doing a build like this. Tires are falken wildpeak at3w and i gotta say they're like driving on velvet. It might be that I'm coming off a set of bfg mud terrains but this tire feels awesome. I'm not sure how my mpg will be affected yet so I'll post up about it after a month or so.
Mpg stock: 10.7
Axle swap: 9.8
Axle swap/superchips 87 oct performance tune: 10.8

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My buddies machines where way undersized but we made it work. We traded off who was mounting tires but i let him do all the balancing, he was having to get them spun up on the balancer then turn it on.
20191122_145131.jpg
Tires fit great, definitely thinking I'll go with a thuren lift shackle in the rear to help with the rake. That way I'm not squatting like crazy when I'm loaded with dirt bikes and gear.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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10.8.. you gasers really LOVE to spend money on gas haha. Those are good tires tho, my buddy ran them for a long time on his Jeep.
Lol i love gas stations what can i say, i plan on doing lock out hubs in the front axle for some extra mpg and short tube headers to help with low end and possibly get a little more mpg. Then a 52 gallon gas tank so i can go a little further between fill ups. I think i have 32 or 34 gallons right now.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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Did some simple stuff, an ARB diff breather kit, i spent some good money on the axles so i wanted to do what i could to protect them skid plates for them are coming soon. And i also did a synergey adjustable drag link because the truck was really dog legged after just a 2.5" lift.
20191129_122421.jpg
Just made a coupler from the oem rubber breather line, black rtv and shrink wrap, also added hose clamps as a just incase but it is water tight.

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Also used a ton of chafe guard, its super cheap and easy insurance

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just did a super simple mount and but it at a high point in the engine bay behind the batterey

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also started building a relay block to power lockers and lights and if it works out well enough I'll do another for on board air an extra stuff.

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wife and doge very impressed.

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my truck was running super dog legged, it was off by almost 2", so to get it inline i went to an adjustable drag link and got it within 1/8" i know that trucks usually run a little out of line, but my passenger tire is rubbing on the trailing arm and my alignment sheet shows a lot of red due to just being to far out. new trucks aren't as dog legged as old trucks and i know i didn't get it perfect so i'm taking it to a different alignment shop than before and letting them try it. if its not done right i'm not accepting it, i'm tired of giving shops thorough instructions from the parts manufacturer and them giving me crap work in return. Now if you ever have to remove a stubborn drag link, a ratchet strap made my life super easy.

20191203_150714.jpg
Bolt stuck and wont come out since the draglink is too tight? bring the link in with a ratchet strap to get it together. couple clicks and the bolt came out with fingers, no prying or trying to walk it out with spinning a wrench.

20191203_154042.jpg
ooooooo shiny new parts!!! i'm partial to synergey for the simple fact they make crazy tough parts for dodges and they're easy to work with and install.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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Ok so its been a while since i've posted but a lot of stuff went wrong on the truck over christmas. First thing that showed up, and i should've known and taken care of it but I had a full plate and was trying to hold out, ball joints... The PW axles had 170k miles on them, and i had ball joints for them waiting to go in, but i didn't do it, and i drove all the way from Virginia, to Georgia, then to Texas, then back up to Virginia. It wasn't anything overland worthy but i wanted to see my folks for Christmas and i wanted to take a cherry picker and engine stand to my dad and visit my brother in GA. So ball joints were shaking like crazy over hard bumps but were manageable, i took a needle grease fitting and stabbed through the boot of the oem joint and pumped it with more than enough grease and it actually helped a lot with noise and feel. Those were replaced shortly after i got back, sadly it was a week night and we were in a hurry and i forgot to get pictures. second and third one happened pretty close to each other, the TIPM which is my trucks fuse and relay block failed, and we think it sent weird voltage to the fuel pump and took it out to. Both of these parts were 14 years old so its not surprising, when tipm failed it started messing with head lights, radio, and fuel pump, and made it seem like there were hundreds of shorts in the truck and my battery was going bad. So in Texas i replaced the tipm and fuel pump on christmas eve and had it up and driving, but the fuel gauge would not work now. it took three different pumps to finally get one that would work and get the gauge to read correctly. first 2 would just throw a check engine light and read empty, all dodge forums say delphie fuel pumps suck and its a common issue, just put in a new one and it'll work, after trouble shooting the gauge and wiring we replaced pump and it works correctly now.
20191224_084940.jpg
old tipm

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old pump, pic doesn't do it justice about how full of crap that 14 year old filter was

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tank out and pump swapped in Texas

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Tank pulled again in Virginia

20191231_130626.jpg
this time though we added a fitting that could be used as a fuel inlet and a fuel outlet, so i can hook up a back up pump and get fuel into the fuel rail through the pressure test port. The pressure regulator shouldn't have a problem with this, and the pump in the tank has a check valve to prevent back flow. when my tipm started going out it wouldn't turn on the pump but i could still get spark, so if i had a back up pump i might have been able to get it started, and with how many pumps i went through i would definitely like a back up if this one went bad out in the middle of no where.

20191231_130829.jpg
heres the line thats in the tank, used brass washers that had fuel proof rubber gaskets on them so its sealed and won't let water in around the fitting and won't be eaten away by gasoline.

20200102_150815.jpg
Third fuel pump... yup...3 of them... and as you can see we wised up and got the other truck off the 2 post lift and took the bed off. seriously just do your pumps this way if you don't have an access door. its 6 bolts and 2 clips for tail lights.

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also brought back a bunch of mesquite wood from texas for my coworkers so they can smoke so meat for us.

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played with guns in TX as well.

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worked on my dads '69 camaro with the cherry picker i brought down, engine stand in the back ground is the one i brought as well.

received_2511165502428596.jpeg
found out at medieval times in dallas that if I pay $21.99 I can get my brother, Bill, knighted.

Thats it for now, i have a roof rack set up i gotta put on and then gotta get some more light options on it to, lock out hubs and a winch gotta start getting planned, and i found i might be able to swap in an 8hp70 8 speed transmission from a 4th gen ram into my truck.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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Ok long time, no update, but i have been working on it. So the bumper.
20200223_114455.jpg
I removed the stock bumper and worked on fitting an addictive desert designs bumper from a 2019 for raptor onto my truck.
20200223_120457.jpg
The bumper had been in a fire, but wasn't really damaged
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The winch and light bar that were in it however were toasted.
20200223_125523.jpg
Its a little wide but looks pretty good
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Using a torch with a rose bud tip to fold the "ears" in
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We welded all the relief cuts made back together, and even added a couple gussets. Even though it is a winch bumper, i think I'm gonna put in a reciever hitch and have the winch as a hitch mount. So i can move it from front to back and store it when its not in use.

Next was the rear shackles, i decided on 2" lift shackles and rancho adjustable dampening shocks
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Pretty simple to get to and swap
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These ranchos ride a lot better than the bilsteins that are only a couple months old
 
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jakeandhisdodge

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Next thing i did was play with the power wagon sway bar i have. I figured since dodge and jeep are owned by the same parent company, the factory smart bars were probably pretty close to each other for the PW and rubricon jk. 20200307_164333.jpg
They look a lot alike, what happens is you spin in the knob clockwise, and the spring on the other side pushes a pin that frees the bar.
20200307_164733.jpg
These things get loaded up with mud and crap so its nice to see its clean in hear. I'll tear it down completely and clean and pack it with grease before i install it
20200307_165809.jpg
Now it fits perfectly, but if you don't have these washers in it to space it out it keeps the bar unlocked. What I'm going to do is have another .5" of threads added to the part that threads in and out. So i can spin it another .5 out and let the bar "lock" for on road driving.
20200307_165837.jpg
Locked
20200307_165814.jpg
Unlocked.

Now I've been trying to find this online for awhile but couldn't find any info on it. So I'm gonna share some of the search terms so if someone else needs this info they can find this write up.
Powerwagon sway bar swap
Manual disconnect power wagon smart bar
Jeep sway bar disconnect on power wagon sway bar
Can a jeep swaybar disconnect work on a power wagon
This manual disconnect is made by EVO and is for the 2007 jeep jk rubricon, if you email them they'll tell you they don't make one for the power wagons. Its just sheer luck Chrysler decided to use the same smartbar on both vehicles.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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So while i wait for covid to run its course and machine shops to open up and add the threads to the swaybar disconnect, i decided to work on my wiring for my lockers and fans. I decided to start from scratch and put it all on one plate and make it where i just land a wire from the switches in the cab, when flipped it allows the coil side of the relay to have a ground and close for 12vdc to go to the controlled device. This means one wire landed on the board for coil ground, then one out for device. Device is grounded to chassis, and other side of switch in cab is connected to ground on chassis to.
20200307_112116.jpg
Didn't have my angle grinder so used a sawzall and some uni bits to make the holes and big square openings. Also used rivnuts to secure parts to the board.
20200307_114043.jpg
Buss bar will be power to power side of relay coil, and power side of relay for devices. Big relay on the side is an 80amp relay that comes on when ignition is on to allow 12vdc to biss bar.
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Blue is from switch, red is out to device.
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Super simple pimple.
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Where to put? Meh just put it on the side of the air box with some rubber idolaters so it doesn't shake too bad.
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Moved the electric fan relay into the new relay box.
20200314_121707.jpg
20200314_131229.jpg
This will be the ground for the switches inside.
20200314_131234.jpg
So i dont have a pic, but an 8awg wire goes from that bolt to the buss bar.
20200314_172442.jpg
So lockers and fan are wired up and working correctly through the relay block. I still gotta remove all the old fan wiring.
 

jakeandhisdodge

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Ok so i haven't posted in awhile and i'm sorry, i didn't want to ghost a build thread and thats what i ended up doing. I bought a house, luckily wasn't affected too bad by covid since i have a state job i could do remote. so let me fill yall in on everything else i did and why i'm going to end up putting it up for sell.

paint4.jpg
So i think at this point i ended up paint ing the frame and inner wheel wells on the bed, i love this stuff. its been on for awhile in salt and sand and it still looks new, you don't have to be good at painting or even paint prep. spray it on all blotchy and uneven, drys smooth and looks perfect. and the prep is to spray it with a degreaser and pressure wash it clean and let it dry.
paint3.jpgpaint2.jpgpaint.jpg

next i added some cheap load springs, again my suspension ideas were bad and since i used power wagon springs on the back, they could not keep up and started sagging. so i added a cheap autzone addaleaf kit ant it worked out great.
load springs.jpg

i also added some DT pro fab sway bar links for power wagons in the truck and they work great, for how much they cost its a well made product

links.jpg
also you can see the cut steering stabilizer, i just recently welded it back together with a piece of c channel, so now it is connected together. and the chain holding the sway bat disconnect has been swapped out with a j hook turn buckle, its super simple but looks good.

next we moved, and the truck with the 4.56 gears did amazing hauling a dump trailer and all the stuff from our house to our new house that was an hour away. thing did multiple trips without issues.
moving.jpg
my roof rack is some yakima q towers with .5" sprinkler pipe, and a pelican case u bolted to it. its pretty quiet and super useful.

h2 wheels.jpg
I got some H2 wheels for the truck, traded my stock 3rd gen wheels and $45 to get them, they were already bord out and fit over my trucks hubs and didn't need hub centric rings.

h2 wheels 3.jpg
dang h2 wheels are perfect
h2wheels2.jpg

camper6.jpg
next we found a cheap palomino pop up camper in west virginia for $1200, its in great shape and we love the look, its actually for a long bed ranger or toyota t100
camper.jpg
camper2.jpg
camper inside.jpg
camper inside 2.jpg

next, it was time to get rid of the helper springs and move on to riderite 5000lb air bags, with daystar cradles of course. don't want to rip the bags apart when im out some light trails.
air bags 2.jpg20200822_173445.jpg
the bags working with the rancho adjustable shocks worked like a dream with the camper in the bed, but i think my next set up will be some good shocks with a rear sway bar.

camper 5.jpgcamper 4.jpg
i finally painted my front bumper, then cut out all the winch plate stuff that was built into the bumper. Remember, this is a bumper for a ford raptor, if i tried to put a winch in it and pull myself out, i'd probably tear the bumper/winch off the front of the truck. so instead i welded some 1/4" angle iron to the front frame horns, the i made a front reciever hitch, looks good and works great.

camper 3.jpg
and this is the last pic i have to post of it. this pic shows the truck with thurens front coils, the rough country coils lifted the truck 3.5" over stock and were way too stiff and wrecked some stuff. these lifted the truck 2.5" over stock and look and feel so much better, still kinda harsh, but coupled with thurens overland shocks these coils felt great. you can also sorta see my free spin hubs up front, i swapped out the unit bearing for a new lock out hub from the ram man inc. they're f250 front hubs that are re drilled the 8x6.5, and they give you a new d60 stub shaft to replace the oem stub shaft. so i put those on and brand new u joints in the front axle shafts.

So I'm gonna put it up for sell. We love the camper so we will keep it, but we're gonna move to a diesel, i just picked up a 7.3 powerstroke and we're looking forward to using that truck instead. the mega cab is nice, and the back seating area is awesome for storage, but the 5.7 gas cant keep up with us. We plan on doing long camper trips and i plan to take the camper and a dirtbike out into the woods to, in this configuration we were pulling in 9.5mpg and the rpm was over 3k rpm for our whole trip. We don't want that kinda fuel bill and since our wants are so heavy, we are just moving to an engine that can work better with the weight. If you are considering getting a 5.7 mega cab i will say they're great and easy to work on, you have to buy mopar replacement parts but other than that they're pretty cheap, with a dirt bike and all my gear i was getting 12.5mpg with 35/12.50r17s after all my mods. the mods i couldn't post because my phone that had all the pics took a crap are mbrp 3" catback exhaust, 5" solid aluminum drive shaft, and free spin front hubs.
 

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Bootyendeavor

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Ok so i haven't posted in awhile and i'm sorry, i didn't want to ghost a build thread and thats what i ended up doing. I bought a house, luckily wasn't affected too bad by covid since i have a state job i could do remote. so let me fill yall in on everything else i did and why i'm going to end up putting it up for sell.

View attachment 186593
So i think at this point i ended up paint ing the frame and inner wheel wells on the bed, i love this stuff. its been on for awhile in salt and sand and it still looks new, you don't have to be good at painting or even paint prep. spray it on all blotchy and uneven, drys smooth and looks perfect. and the prep is to spray it with a degreaser and pressure wash it clean and let it dry.
View attachment 186594View attachment 186595View attachment 186596

next i added some cheap load springs, again my suspension ideas were bad and since i used power wagon springs on the back, they could not keep up and started sagging. so i added a cheap autzone addaleaf kit ant it worked out great.
View attachment 186597

i also added some DT pro fab sway bar links for power wagons in the truck and they work great, for how much they cost its a well made product

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also you can see the cut steering stabilizer, i just recently welded it back together with a piece of c channel, so now it is connected together. and the chain holding the sway bat disconnect has been swapped out with a j hook turn buckle, its super simple but looks good.

next we moved, and the truck with the 4.56 gears did amazing hauling a dump trailer and all the stuff from our house to our new house that was an hour away. thing did multiple trips without issues.
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my roof rack is some yakima q towers with .5" sprinkler pipe, and a pelican case u bolted to it. its pretty quiet and super useful.

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I got some H2 wheels for the truck, traded my stock 3rd gen wheels and $45 to get them, they were already bord out and fit over my trucks hubs and didn't need hub centric rings.

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dang h2 wheels are perfect
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next we found a cheap palomino pop up camper in west virginia for $1200, its in great shape and we love the look, its actually for a long bed ranger or toyota t100
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next, it was time to get rid of the helper springs and move on to riderite 5000lb air bags, with daystar cradles of course. don't want to rip the bags apart when im out some light trails.
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the bags working with the rancho adjustable shocks worked like a dream with the camper in the bed, but i think my next set up will be some good shocks with a rear sway bar.

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i finally painted my front bumper, then cut out all the winch plate stuff that was built into the bumper. Remember, this is a bumper for a ford raptor, if i tried to put a winch in it and pull myself out, i'd probably tear the bumper/winch off the front of the truck. so instead i welded some 1/4" angle iron to the front frame horns, the i made a front reciever hitch, looks good and works great.

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and this is the last pic i have to post of it. this pic shows the truck with thurens front coils, the rough country coils lifted the truck 3.5" over stock and were way too stiff and wrecked some stuff. these lifted the truck 2.5" over stock and look and feel so much better, still kinda harsh, but coupled with thurens overland shocks these coils felt great. you can also sorta see my free spin hubs up front, i swapped out the unit bearing for a new lock out hub from the ram man inc. they're f250 front hubs that are re drilled the 8x6.5, and they give you a new d60 stub shaft to replace the oem stub shaft. so i put those on and brand new u joints in the front axle shafts.

So I'm gonna put it up for sell. We love the camper so we will keep it, but we're gonna move to a diesel, i just picked up a 7.3 powerstroke and we're looking forward to using that truck instead. the mega cab is nice, and the back seating area is awesome for storage, but the 5.7 gas cant keep up with us. We plan on doing long camper trips and i plan to take the camper and a dirtbike out into the woods to, in this configuration we were pulling in 9.5mpg and the rpm was over 3k rpm for our whole trip. We don't want that kinda fuel bill and since our wants are so heavy, we are just moving to an engine that can work better with the weight. If you are considering getting a 5.7 mega cab i will say they're great and easy to work on, you have to buy mopar replacement parts but other than that they're pretty cheap, with a dirt bike and all my gear i was getting 12.5mpg with 35/12.50r17s after all my mods. the mods i couldn't post because my phone that had all the pics took a crap are mbrp 3" catback exhaust, 5" solid aluminum drive shaft, and free spin front hubs.
Great looking truck man. So I have the same truck and getting parts for it has been an ass kicker due to the 2500 chassis and mine is a 2wd. I basically been sinking money into this truck because I love it and there’s not looking back now. Doing long tube headers, jay green premium package cam, hell cat lifters, etc. I noticed you added quite a bit for your steering. I’ve tried figuring out what it is on my truck, but when I hit the throttle till 3rd gear, it sometimes grabs the pavement and throws me off the road. Was curious if you had the same issues with yours? Here’s mine as she sits, definitely need to do a mid travel suspension on it.
Thanks for your posting man!
 

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