2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build

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tjZ06

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BTW, we had a local paint shop mix up the original factory code paint in a rattle-can for the engine bay. The engine bay was somewhat painted (very light in some areas, obviously it wasn't a focus on the assembly line) but not clear-coated, and I wanted to maintain that look (this is NOT a show car... errrrr show Jeep). For comparison the area in the right side of the pic is behind the driver's side headlight, and was *not* repainted, but the rest of what you see was... pretty spot-on match IMHO (and certainly good enough for this purpose):

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-TJ
 

tjZ06

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Another issue was the windage tray. The new once, which was ordered for the 6.1 had way less clearance around the rods/rod bolts than the old one from the junkyard 5.7 mock-up-motor. A new 5.7 unit resolved the issue (tried to trim the 6.1 new one, but it just grabbed the blade and bent).

Trim attempt on new 6.1 unit:
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Old 5.7 unit (not the much bigger openings):
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New 5.7 unit with good clearance:
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-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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We still need to touch-up the HEMI logo, and it's a LOT of orange but I think I like it. Once it's in and the intake tract is in place, all the PS and AC stuff, etc. it'll tone-down the orange some, but I wanted it to make a statement!

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I also debated leaving the "6.1" part black, since this motor is no longer 6.1... but ultimately I decided it was a nice nod to what the basis for the build was.

-TJ
 

MrWilsonWJ

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We still need to touch-up the HEMI logo, and it's a LOT of orange but I think I like it. Once it's in and the intake tract is in place, all the PS and AC stuff, etc. it'll tone-down the orange some, but I wanted it to make a statement!

View attachment 265010
View attachment 265011

I also debated leaving the "6.1" part black, since this motor is no longer 6.1... but ultimately I decided it was a nice nod to what the basis for the build was.

-TJ
What are you estimating for HP and torque? And do you think the 44's will hold up or will we see some custom width ProRock 60's on it?
 

tjZ06

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What are you estimating for HP and torque?
Too much HP and way too much TQ. ;) But seriously, the 6.1 was right around 425/425 bone stock. Just on cubic inch increase it should be up around 14%, but since most of that CUI gain comes from stroke I suspect torque will have an out-sized gain.

Then there's the exhaust we built. It still has cats, mufflers, etc. but is going to be way higher flowing than stock passenger car stuff. It also has a bit more cam than a stock 6.1, a better valve job (but no head porting), and a few other advantages. If I just figure 20% improvement of flywheel numbers it should make ~510 HP and ~510 TQ. With the big stroke I think it might be more like 510/550. The one "gotcha" is I'm trying to keep the stock 4.7 HO airbox and duct it to the 6.1 SRT8 throttle body/intake. That airbox and duct will probably choke it out a bit on the top end, but shouldn't really impact low-end torque.

And do you think the 44's will hold up or will we see some custom width ProRock 60's on it?
Maybe? I've slaughtered 10" ring gears in way lighter vehicles (sand rails that were around half the weight) with similar horsepower. It's all in how it's driven and used. My 44s are as built as it gets, and I'm "just" on 35"s. If I bounce the thing in the rocks under power, it's going to destroy something, but it'll probably be the u-joints in the driveshafts first.

This rig won't ever get 60s because it's just too clean and too nice. And more than that, there is SO much custom work on the axles for the trusses/4-link setup, bypass shocks, hydraulic bump pads, etc. that it's not like I can just order D60s for a WJ from ECGS and bolt them in. It'd be starting all over with fab. I just ordered all new wheels/tires for it so I can put big brakes on it and I'll put these wheels/tires on my XJ (well, already did). I really, really wanted to go to 37" but it would have required so many changes that I just stayed with 35"s. This thing isn't going to be an Ultimate Adventure type build.

Can I break the 44s or basically anything in this rig with this motor even on 35"s? Yup. But even if I put ProRock 60s in it, new driveshafts and 14-series u-joints, an Atlas t-case (cuz the 242HD will become a weak point if the axles, driveshafts and u-joints are addressed) I will be able to break something if I'm dumb enough.

So, we're going to find out if I can wheel it reasonably, camp out of it, and always drive it to/from the trail with this setup or does it just hurt parts all the time. That will dictate next steps.

-TJ
 
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MrWilsonWJ

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That'll be awesome when it's all together, I couldn't imagine mine with roughly double the HP and torque of stock.
 

tjZ06

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With all the changes to the engine bay, exhaust etc. some new brake lines were in order to keep them routed cleanly, away from excessive heat, etc. The master cylinder is off too since I'm going to do a big brake kit on it I'm doing a master from a E350 van that nearly bolts up (you just have to slot one mounting hole) but moves more volume for multi-piston calipers all around.

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-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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To feed this 426cui Hemi the stock fuel pump wasn't going to be enough. One of the upsides of the tank-tuck and cutting out the spare tire tub is we created an access panel for the fuel pump, evap, etc. We retained EVAP back then and left the panel not fully sealed because we wanted to make sure everything worked well when I was retaining the stock 4.7 HO and ECU. So, here's what that looked like:

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With the Hemi and '05 RAM ECU that we'll be tuning via HP Tuners we could get rid of the EVAP mess and we swapped in a Walbro 255lph pump:

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Another thing we'll be fixing is the fuel-fill. Ever since the tank-tuck I've had to trickle fuel in, which is especially annoying trying to fill off a jerry can. We didn't slam the tank up as high as some people do when doing WJ tank-tucks for a few reasons: a) being able to use the stock hose pass-through b) leaving room for the EVAP stuff c) with how high this thing sits it wasn't necessary d) it made the sway bar mount stuff work better. So I think if we just shorten this hose up and route it clean it'll be good to go.

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Eventually I'd love to find a way to put a bigger fuel cell in place of the stock tank since we have room to work with, but there's only so much I want to take on now...

-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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We had a starter adapter made so we can run the engine on my buddy's test stand. The stand was built/configured for LSs originally so it doesn't have any sort of starter provisions (LS starters bolt to the block, while GenIII Hemi starters mount to the trans) so we needed this made to test the engine before sending it home:

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-TJ
 

tjZ06

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Teraflex BBK on with new wheel/tire package... they clears (for the record, yes I got the wheels/tires first and then used TF's template to check before ordering the brakes, but you never REALLY know 'til you put it on):

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There were a few reasons to go to this wheel setup. First, with the 426cui Hemi going in I wanted to be able to put big brakes on it, which requires 17"s (old wheels were 16"s). Second, I was ready to go beadlock and a higher quality wheel than the ProComps that had been on this WJ since it was a mild DD. Third, I wanted to eliminate the wheel spacers. This did require putting new wheel studs in the front since the mounting area of the wheel is much thicker (rear wheel studs were already longer) but that's a small price to pay to eliminate wheel spacers with the proper offset.

Also, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Trail Forged DIY front bumper. I want to be able to flat-tow this Jeep, plus the Jeep has legit sliders and a legit rear bumper so I guess it was time. Who likes puzzles:

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-TJ
 
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