2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build

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tjZ06

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I haven't followed up in a while, but that first test run did find one issue besides just the fenders (which have been taken care of, as you can see earlier in the thread). The rear axle has so much travel and articulation, we found the end of the articulation of the heims on the end-links.

Both heims were on the same plane, or in the same orientation if you will. They are this style:


The way they were setup, the stud went side to side, as opposed to front to back, and both pointed outward (so the driver's side has the heim itself was inboard of the sway bar arm, and pointed out to the left, the passenger side was opposite being inboard and point out to the right). I had a little trouble finding great data on these heims, but mostly what I found is they're good for ~20-24 degrees of free movement. If you take a look at this pic:


Doing some eye-balling of the angle of the axle-housing as compared to the "chassis" (yes, it's unibody) it looks like it's in the ballpark (use the bumper as a good reference for the chassis angle). Trying to get a bit more scientific the axle vs. bumper is prob a bit over 20 degrees:


That probably shouldn't be a problem, or I wouldn't have thought it would, but it definitely bound up:








I have to say, I'm impressed the end links hung in there enough to actually bend the fabricated steel arms. But they did. The driver's side was only a little tweaked, but the passenger side as you can see got pretty messed up.

So what's the fix?

Well, for one we're going to turn the lower heim 90 degrees so the studs point directly forward. This will mean the axle-tab will be a flat-bottom |__| "u" shape instead of just a singular tab, which will make it much stronger. But also, the heim will be oriented so that it is rotating about the mounting point, where it has infinite angularity. Now, that does mean that heim could potentially bind as the end-link angles fore and aft during the arm's swing through its radius. I think we're okay though, because the max angularity as isn't much:



Here you can see it's just under 20 degrees (90-70). But, to make it even better we're moving the bottom mounting point out about an inch or so, which should bring it way closer to vertical. Same story under full-bump:



So, that should really take care of it. Still, we're swapping the fabricated arms out for the forged arms like I have on the front:



Then there's the aforementioned stronger "u" shaped tabs (which will also be boxed on the bottom, with some openings to let mud/water out). On top of that, we're going 1" shorter on the limit straps. While not drastic, it should help a bit and I think my droop previously was sort of unnecessarily ridiculous:


So that's one issue that's getting addressed. Also, doing some clean-up and re-painting things with POR-15. Just the last few months at my buddy's shop which is close to the ocean has started a lot of surface rust. So, I'm addressing it now before it's coated and I can never really get it clean and bare for paint again.
 

tjZ06

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Other than that, there was a small laundry-list of little crap to do:

  • Knock rust off, paint with POR-15
  • License plate light
  • Backup cam (with pig-tail to attach to the trailer's backup cam... wait did I mention the trailer?)
  • Full brake flush and bleed (pedal was a little on the long side)
  • Trans cooler
  • Front wheel spacers to match rear (rear has them to clear the bypasses, I'd rather they match)
  • Re-wire AC trigger to use the HVAC control trigger (basically the little light on the dash for the AC button) vs. the actual trigger wire to the AC compressor to stop it from short-cycling
All of that should be done by next Mon or Tues depending on how much time we have. Then I'm hoping to take it for an overnight shake-down April 3/4.

For the trans cooler, I chose this: B&M 70298 B&M Hi-Tek SuperCoolers with Fans | Summit Racing


Nice, compact unit with an integrated fan and temp-sensor/trigger.

It's going to go here:


We have room to space it a few inches off the shroud with some stand-offs, and it'll overlap the fans a bit. Hopefully that flapper still functions as expected (it's purpose is to suck closed when the fans are pulling so air has to come through the radiator, instead of through those holes, but blow open on the freeway to let cooling air through). I'm wondering if I should just glue it fully shut for fan efficiency. This thing has ZERO problem staying cool on the freeway.



-TJ
 

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Man I love this build. I wish I could get my hands on a decent Grand Cherokee these days but they're all rusted out around here, and my wife may kill me if I started another project lol.
 

tjZ06

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Man I love this build. I wish I could get my hands on a decent Grand Cherokee these days but they're all rusted out around here, and my wife may kill me if I started another project lol.
Thanks! It's getting really hard to find a clean WJ. I've helped a few buddies find/buy decent ones now, but haven't come across another this good yet.


Some progress on the axle-side sway bar end-link tabs. We had a buddy whip these up:





Welded up, added a mud/water drain (we ended up putting two more smaller holes in the "corners" too):







Starting to mock-up on the axle, we ended up having to notch them to go around the coil perch, but I suppose that ties everything together nicely anyway:


(and don't worry, it's just an optical illusion that the end-link looks like it's hitting the coil, there's actually a ton of room)



-TJ
 

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Trans cooler getting mounted up. Nut-certs in for mounting:

tcooler3.jpg

We're going to epoxy that flap shut. I went back and forth on exaclty what I wanted to do there, but I think the right move is having it shut. The idea with the flap is when the vehicle is moving, it blows open to allow natural airflow. However, when the fans kick on it sucks shut, forcing the fans to pull air through the radiator, rather than through those holes. There is a second one of these in the opposite corner, and this thing stays super cool when moving at all, so I'm not worried about losing that natural airflow when moving with it permanently closed. However, if we left it open, when the rad fans and the trans cooler fans were both on, they'd be trying to pull air through those holes in opposite directions. Nothing is worse for a fan than fighting an opposite airflow, so I think it'd burn up the trans cooler fan, as well as create a weird area of stagnant air which would hurt both engine and trans cooling. Instead, this will be sealed and the trans cooler is on stand-offs that should give it enough room to pull air:

tcooler2.jpg
tcooler1.jpg

And yes, once I get it back I'm going to hit all that rust. That's been a huge bummer of having it at my buddies shop. Obviously the bare metal parts (like the water pump snout) were going to rust eventually no matter what, but even coated things like the button-head screws that mount the fan rusted in his salty air environment.

I guess I can feel less bad when I take this thing snow-wheeling and drive through salt 'n stuff getting there?

-TJ
 

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Gluing that vent shut (or riveting a plate over the holes, or whatever) is prudent with the trans cooler now there. I'd leave the second and higher vent alone. I'm looking to add a vent like that to the lower part of my stock 99 shroud.
Corrosion is no fun. I used the black oxide hardware all over the engine compartment of my Chevelle back in the day, and with it briefly parked in Salinas every one of the bolt heads corroded. The ocean was not far off. Lesson learned, went with Stainless later on. But it's a California Jeep, so my friend that is just patina at worse.
 

tjZ06

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Gluing that vent shut (or riveting a plate over the holes, or whatever) is prudent with the trans cooler now there. I'd leave the second and higher vent alone. I'm looking to add a vent like that to the lower part of my stock 99 shroud.
Corrosion is no fun. I used the black oxide hardware all over the engine compartment of my Chevelle back in the day, and with it briefly parked in Salinas every one of the bolt heads corroded. The ocean was not far off. Lesson learned, went with Stainless later on. But it's a California Jeep, so my friend that is just patina at worse.
Yeah, I'm definitely leaving the upper vent alone, but we'll seal the bottom one (either gluing it shut, or riveting in a panel as you suggested).

As for the rust, it mostly just bugs be because I'm weird like that. But you're right, it's not an actual issue. There is zero actual body or structural rust anywhere on this Jeep. The first time I have to drive it in the salt all the black oxide hardware would have rusted, as well as the bare metal - even if I washed it within a day or two. So, now I don't have to sweat that as much, lol. Obviously I'll still wash it after salt exposure ASAP to keep any body rust from starting, but the hardware is going to be what it's going to be. I have to remind myself it IS a Jeep after all. ;)

-TJ
 
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Trail_pilot

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Yeah, I'm definitely leaving the upper vent alone, but we'll seal the bottom one (either gluing it shut, or riveting in a panel as you suggested).

As for the rust, it mostly just bugs be because I'm weird like that. But you're right, it's not an actual issue. There is zero actual body or structural rust anywhere on this Jeep. The first time I have to drive it in the salt all the black oxide hardware would have rusted, as well as the bare metal - even if I washed it within a day or two. So, now I don't have to sweat that as much, lol. Obviously I'll still wash it after salt exposure ASAP to keep any body rust from starting, but the hardware is going to be what it's going to be. I have to remind myself it IS a Jeep after all. ;)

-TJ
I hate rust. It's a never ending battle for me. I work in a steel warehouse and during the winter we can transport material ( oil coated and tarped) from one warehouse to another about an hour away and by the time it gets there its rusting. most of my area is heavy sand and salt combo in the winter so the sand blasts the paint away and the salt rusts it. in the cities they use a heavy salt brine that coats well, but any exposed metal is just eaten away. I neglected my Jeep a little this year ( moved to new town, got new job, bought house, had kid, ...) and now everything seems to need some attention. Hell the bolt holding my battery in is currently siezed and needs to come out soon lol. I envy any bare metal I see on vehicles!
 

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painting0.jpg

Getting ready to hit it with some paint underneath. Just a quick military-style spray after cleaning up some of the light surface rust that was starting (as seen/described above).

painting1.jpg

painting2.jpg

painting3.jpg

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-TJ
 

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Didn't get to go camping this weekend as originally planned, but at least set the combo up and did some testing and got weights on it all:

Combo3.jpg

Combo1.jpg

It sags a bit, but not a ton (it sits a little tail-low even w/o the trailer). I might look into a slightly stiffer rear coil, or I might drop the front coil-over setting a bit.



Anybody care to guess weights for the Jeep and the trailer each independently, tongue weight of the trailer and total?

-TJ
 

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My SWAG is 5900 lbs Jeep, 125 lbs tongue, 1400 lbs trailer. 7425 total.

That is one fine looking setup!
Thank you sir. I won't share numbers yet... but just one note, I left that firewood in the tongue-basket and had the full 30 gallons plus all of my gear (SoloStove, shower/commode tent, solar panels, camp chair, camp table and all that included) in the trailer. Basically everything to camp in it minus food.

-TJ
 

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Thank you sir. I won't share numbers yet... but just one note, I left that firewood in the tongue-basket and had the full 30 gallons plus all of my gear (SoloStove, shower/commode tent, solar panels, camp chair, camp table and all that included) in the trailer. Basically everything to camp in it minus food.

-TJ
Oh, with all the gear! Didn't know that!!!! Add a bit for the 30 gallons!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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No other guesses?

-TJ
I'd take a guess, but I really have no idea of what it might be... I am curious to see what it is and how you like pulling the trailer with your WJ set up the way it is. I've been kicking around the idea of building or buying something one day since there isn't much storage space in the WJ once you get me, my wife and a Great Dane/ Mastiff mix in there.
 

tjZ06

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I'd take a guess, but I really have no idea of what it might be... I am curious to see what it is and how you like pulling the trailer with your WJ set up the way it is. I've been kicking around the idea of building or buying something one day since there isn't much storage space in the WJ once you get me, my wife and a Great Dane/ Mastiff mix in there.
Well, since it's probably just us WJ guys interested, here we go. This is the combo hitched up:

Weight2.jpg

I was just barely able to get the Jeep's front tires on the steer axle pad while keeping the trailer's tires on the trailer pad - so this is correct/accurate. All-in-all very acceptable weight, but the trailer is a good bit more than I expected. To be fair, the firewood in that tongue basket plus the 30 gallons of water is probably 500+ lbs, but I wanted to get realistic weights for how I'd actually use it. I don't anticipate loading up firewood for every trip, but it's nice to have there. Here in CA any semi-popular spot is generally picked pretty dry for firewood by the middle or end of the season, and I obviously don't take living trees, or even dead trees that have become a habitat or host for other things. Also, for quick trips it can just be nice to not spend some of your camping time gathering firewood, especially if you end up getting in before dark.

Anyway, here are the weights unhitched:
Weight1.jpg

As you can see the Jeep itself is 5,360 lbs and the trailer is 2,800 lbs for a combined total of 8,160 lbs (which obviously matches the total from the hitched up weight). That means I'm at 320lbs of tongue weight. I had weighed it at 260-ish lbs with my tongue weight scale, but I believe the tongue is sitting lower on the Jeep than how I tested it (I should have lowered the trailer's jack so that when I jacked the trailer up with the scale it sat at ride-height). The Jeep had a full tank and all of my standard recovery gear and a mini tool kit in it, but nothing else. The trailer was fully loaded, other than food. The trailer had all of my cookware/dishes/flatware etc, my Solostove, my 2-room shower/commode tent, my commode and toiletries, camp chairs, camp table, solar panel, all my bedding, clothes (including cold/wet weather wear), etc. in it. Again, ready to go other than food and drinking water.

So, how did it tow?

In short: okay. As you can see, it squats a little, but actually not a ton (it sits a little tail-low without the trailer). My rear springs are TJ/LJ 6" lift springs, so I can consider going to something like a 7.5" TJ/LJ rear spring, or I could put a rubber spacer on the top of the springs, or I can lower the front coil-overs a bit (or maybe a combo, like a small .75" or 1" rear spacer and lower the front 1"). Still, even with the sag there are zero stability problems. No sway (even with the very touchy hydraulic steering leading to accidental not-so-subtle inputs from time to time), no issues in wind (actually went through some pretty heavy winds, enough that the electronic road signs were giving high wind warnings), no issues passing/getting passed by rigs. Once I got the brakes adjusted and dialed in on the controller stopping was confident too. I'm running Powerstop Z36 towing rotors/pads front/back with the JK calipers, and honestly I'd like a pad with a bit more initial bite even without the trailer, but they did very well.

As for power, it was sufficient at best. I really thought the 4.7 HO would do a little better, especially with everything in mine being so fresh and the 4.88s in the back. It doesn't really struggle to get up to speed or anything, but it does like to run 2nd gear out pretty far (not uncommon with the gear spreads in the 545RFE, our '06 5.7 Hemi Ram was the same way towing) but that's fine. It'll hold 65 in top gear on flat ground on the freeway, but any little grade does make it kick-down, but that's fine.

On Sunday after I got it weighed I drove through Yuba City (where the closest scales to me are), through Marysville, then up along Highway 20 all the way to where it hits Highway 80 just South of the Cisco Grove exit. I turned around at Cisco, then came back down 80 all the way to 65 and back into Lincoln. All-in-all it worked out to 148.4 miles climbing up to ~5,650 feet from basically sea level and returning and I got 10.65 MPG (hand-calculated using Google Maps for distances so it's 100% accurate). Honestly, I'm not too upset with 10.65 MPG considering the climb up to Cisco Grove. I find you never really recover as much MPG as you lose with grades (since you're not just putting it in Neutral and letting it freewheel all the way down the hill).

There were some pretty long sections of 20 where I had to drop it into 2nd gear and hold ~3,700 RPM to keep ~45 MPH. I've done the math, and I swear that would be the 1.67 2nd gear, not the 1.50 2nd gear (our 545RFEs use a different 2nd ratio for up vs. down shifts, my understanding is that it uses the 1.67 when UP shifting from 1st-2nd and the 1.50 when DOWN shifting form 3rd to 2nd - including when pulling the shifter back from [D] to 2nd). IDK, maybe I am remember it wrong and I was seeing indicated 45 (which is just about 50 by GPS). Doing that for loooong stretches I saw a high of 223 coolant temps, and just about the same for trans. Anytime I got a "break" of slightly less grade (especially if let me get back into 3rd) ECT recovered very quickly, but TFT tended to take longer to recover. Once I got home I double checked the trans cooler, and found I had wired it backwards so it was pushing, not pulling. I still think it was helping a lot since it isn't in a path of direct airflow, it shouldn't make a *huge* difference having it pulling, other than the fact that the blades themselves should be more efficient in the correct direction.

I probably should have just gone straight up 80 itself, and maybe I will this weekend. But overall I guess I'd say I was a little disappointed. I really thought the cooling system would perform a little better. Sure, *most* of the time it kept it under 200 degrees even towing, but seeing 223 when climbing when it was only ~65 degrees outside and I didn't have the AC running (need to get it recharged) isn't particularly confidence inspiring. That said, I think the speeds it was able to hold are acceptable. I got behind a few different RVs with trailers, and I could always go faster than them if I wanted, but chose to just stay behind them and take it easier. I think the same will be true on 80, where my old diesel pusher and stacker trailer combo often could only do 35 MPH... but fully-loaded rigs would be doing 20. So, if I can do 45-50 in places where lots of traffic are doing 35 or less, I'm okay with that.

What worries me though, is what will happen when it's 90 degrees out and/or I want to run the AC? Obviously I can live without the AC to pull a grade, but the comfort of the WJ is one of the reasons I picked it. I can do my best to plan my trips to never pull big grades in the peak heat of the day, but we all know that's not really realistic. I really don't think there's much else I can do to improve the cooling system. I could try going back to the hydraulic fan I suppose (I still have it, and it was in good working order) but from the stats I could fine (which were hard to come by, and I don't know how much I trust them) my e-fan setup pulls very similar CFM and my radiator itself is bigger. I could add an oil cooler, which will take heat out of the engine, especially when turning high RPM for long periods of time when oil-temp builds, but I'm really running out of space for more coolers in the thing - and if I place it in front of the current cooling stack it's not going to help as much as finding its own clean air.

With respect to power, this has my eye: StackPath It's a very clean execution, and while I'm not normally a fan of add-on divorced fuel systems to provide the extra enrichment, in this case it does have the advantage of putting fuel through the blower for the cooling effect (since it's not otherwise intercooled). Of course, this would probably just compound my temp issues... or would it?

There's a school of thought that says if I could keep 3rd gear with the power/torque from the blower, it could produce overall lower temps to achieve the same MPH up a grade. Think of it this way, it takes a certain amount of *work* to get the ~8400lbs of the Jeep, trailer and me (I'm not included in the weights above) up a given grade at a given speed - that is a constant. I guess that's not exactly true, since work is a force exerted over a distance, but If you constrain the MPH to be the same (let's use 50 MPH) then it holds true. Playing with some numbers, and assuming I was using the 1.50:1 2nd gear (not 1.67:1) to hold 50 MPH I'm either at 3600 RPM in 2nd or 2400 in 3rd. Again, the same amount of total work is going to be done, so in theory the same amount of heat from combustion is generated (assuming the BSFC is roughly the same at 2400 and 3600 RPM). HOWEVER, there should be more frictional loses, and associated heat turning 3600 than 2400, meaning the engine would have to produce a bit more power to overcome those frictional losses, and both the friction and the extra power mean extra heat. So, IF the blower let me hold 3rd at 50 instead of 2nd, one would actually expect lower heat... but there's a catch: the blower itself takes power to turn and generates heat. So which is worse?

The answer is: I don't know. But I do know that I don't want to drop ~$5k more into this project, and I don't want to start another snowball that will mean I don't use it all season again. I think for now I'm just going to take it out as-is... and if I have to go slow, I have to go slow. If I can't run AC on grades, I won't. And if I have to stop and let 'er cool, I guess I will.

-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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Too long without an update again, lots going on keeping me distracted from Jeep things. But, did get some progress: got the Cs rotated so I now have perfect pinion angle and some caster. And resealed the t-case and diffs. The Cs weren't rotated during the main build, which looking back was a huge oversight. As it was, I ended up with about 0, perhaps even -1 degrees caster. The JK spec (recall, these are JK axles) is 4.2 degrees +/- .5. However, I like to see more like 7 in something like this. Normally that much caster makes for a heavy steering wheel, but with they hydraulic assist you want that to reduce the "over-boosted" feeling on the freeway (and at slow speed, the caster isn't as much of a factor so it doesn't make turning the tires in the rocks any harder on the hydraulic system). As for the leaks, T-case seemed like it was just the SYE housing or actually the bolts for it, so that was an easy fix. Then a pinion seal. We'll see how it goes now with a little more time, but I just got it back on the street. Hoping to go out and put miles on it after a late night at work:

Heep2.jpg
Heep1.jpg

I think the people of downtown Palo Alto love me.

-TJ
 

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A couple more beauty shots (or a 4.7 WJ in its natural habitat... a gas station):



And a fun comparison with a much more stock WJ (2" lift with +1" tires):




-TJ