2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo

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JimBill

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Addco 7/8 sway bar installed. First on-road driving impression- I LIKE IT. Very neutral and predictable. A lot of the wind drift is now gone. Now it drives with the complete personality of the underinflated LT tires.

After aggressive test drive, evidence the bar was walking right and left, and settled way right after drive. Added a couple of shaft collars from the local hardware store. Should stay centered now.

Now thinking of taming the tires with a shock change. Looks like the Fox 2.0 should offer a much better trail ride due to the type of valving. But then I would expect a bit more bottoming out. Factory WJ bumpstops are crap, need to find a real jounce bumper. Anyone have any ideas? There are some decent alternatives for the newer Jeeps, but likely a little fabbing is required to fit them to the WJ. Yup, off into the next rabbit hole..... while a cat back exhaust and new steering gear lie in wait.

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After all the mods (springs, bumpstops, rear sway bar, larger "32" inch tires, IRO 2.5" cat back system, etc) headed to Hollister Hills on Friday morning to check flex and clearances. Ran with tires at 16 psi, front disconnected, 7/8 rear sway bar, at daily driver weight/load. Crossed it up both right and left sides. It was a good day. All works with no issues, and I did find where I could get more droop on both the front and back.

- Everything just clears in suspension and wheel wells (front stuffed to crushed bumptstop, rear just touching bumpstop).
- Might be able to get a hair more stuff on front tires if I moved axle back about a half inch and took a bit out of the front bumpstop extension. Not really worth it.
- Happy with front flex overall, but droop is limited by shocks that are a little short. Changes coming there.
- Happy with rear flex. Overall satisfied with 7/8 sway bar compromise. Great trail manners and decent on highway. At daily driver weight it definitely did not flex like the factory tiny bar. But it did OK and will respond with more flex when at full load out weight. I did discover on full droop the end of the bar was almost vertical. This tells me it might be limiting droop. It needs longer rear sway bar links to position the way bar better when rear suspension is crossed up. And I should get a hair more droop then as well. With the magic of Amazon, links are on order.
- Have a little less flex than the previous blown out stock arm/bushing budget boost on a factory rear sway bar (subjectively, I never measured it crossed up with the old setup). But it feels a whole lot better and under control).
- I do not have the rear vari-lock fluid and modifier formula right yet. Had some trouble getting it engaged. But as you can see from the pics I did get air under the back tires when crossed up.
- Love the Iron Rock Offroad "hybrid" muffler sound. Perfect for an older guy like me. A little extra at idle and down low, but no added noise at cruising speed.
- The extra 1.5 inches of ground clearance (over the budget boost) went a long way in floating over obstacles I used to scrape and sweat over.
- Gave a TJ a yank that was in a precarious spot. Backward any further and front tire would drop down far, risking roll over. Too steep and it didn't want to go forward without crabbing the wrong direction. Sometimes we all need a little tug in the right direction! Steeper than the pic makes it look. We both slipped and fell on our arse a few times getting the strap connected.

Fox 2.0 shocks for a 4 inch lift and longer rear sway bar links on the way, and an appointment to weld up the clamped in cat back exhaust system has been made.

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tjZ06

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Another great write-up! You are really getting that thing dialed in, honestly it's a pretty perfect size/combo for a WJ.

-TJ
 

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Testing and tuning, take 2:

Fox 2.0 Adventure series IFP shocks for 4 inch lift added, with bar pin eliminators on the front shocks. Edelman new steering box installed. Cat pipe flipped, final exhaust alignments and muffler welded up.
1 trip to San Luis Obispo and a loop around the backside of Lopez lake for a test ride a couple of weekends ago. Last Friday another trip to Hollister Hills for flex and clearance testing. And add a Gloria Grade washboard round trip to a shooting match last Saturday.

On Highway impressions- New steering box helped to reduce wandering and feel that it wants to death wobble on rough road. Better feel in the right direction, but only a little better. Change of shocks is exactly as predicted, moving from progressive to linear dampening. Trail and road "chop " is less harsh, but have a bit of rebound hop in the rear when unloaded. I was appalled at first on the Fox shocks, they were ridiculously stiff when first installed but settled down quickly. Otherwise on -road the shock behavior is completely muted by the switch to LT Duratracks. Still hunting for the right tire pressure, and the WJ handling is as expected with heavy, oversized, underinflated tires.

Off Road experience: The easy maintained road behind Lopez lake and Gloria grade, (despite the washboard) were a nicer ride with the Fox shocks. The Duratracks suck on the most common non paved terrain around here- dust, marbles, and sand over hard pan. Flexing at Hollister Hills showed an improvement, on the same rock pile as I tested last time I was no longer getting air under the extended tires. The longer shocks are definitely giving me more droop. But did see that I am marginal on bottoming out the shocks in the rear before the bumpstops. On the front, definitely bottoming out the shocks before the bumpstops. All mechanicals clear flex, including exhaust. Did a few trails while there, and dropped a front spring twice doing the little tunnel on the adventure course. That's new to me!

What need to be done- For the front, need to remove the bar pin eliminators and see if that is just enough to keep the shock from bottoming out first on compression. also it may reduce droop just enough to keep the front spring on. Hoping I don't need to go to a spring retention system and add bumpstop extension length. Also will drop my front pinion a little and sacrifice u joint angle for a little more caster with the hope of improving on-highway manners. Lastly, on next flex retest will unhook my rear sway bar and get a better idea if I need to extend the rear bumpstops. (and last ditch if I need it sorted in a hurry I will just put the shorter Bilsteins back on and call it a day).

Side shot.jpg Flex.jpg spring out.jpg

Exhaust note: Love the mellow sound of the IRO 2.5 inch hybrid muffler. Just enough extra to notice sometimes and otherwise mellow and free flowing. The lower cat pipe has a dog leg lowering the cat, a free cat tuck is there if you can get the pipes loose! Roll the pipe half a turn and point the dog leg up. The exhaust system sits considerably higher now than the old stock cat back system did.

Exhaust side.jpg Exhaust exit.jpg exhaust tip.jpg

Hopefully I will get the garage retrofit done soon enough to get back to the Jeep. Rafters rebuilt and 1 wall strengthened up, 1 wall to go. Walls no longer bow out and roofline no longer droops down. When done this 100+ year old former tractor shed should still be standing at least until I am not.

Rafters.jpg wall.jpg
 
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Had to do a little adulting and let the suspension alone for the moment. The WJ's left blinker didn't work intermittently and eventually almost never. Gotta love the Tube of U (I like the content, not the company so I don't like to call them out proper, please ignore my ism), there was more than one video showing the blinker relay usually is the culprit- cold solder joints that crack with age. By naked eye all looked very good- but sure as shootin', under 7x microscope, 5 of 9 contact spade solder joints had cracks in them. Reflowed the solder with a little flux and inspected, slapped relay cover back on, installed and tested good. Right/left blinkers work on command now! No money spent and less than an hour start to finish.

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For anyone still following here is a suspension update:

Fox shocks for 4" lift too long, even without bar pin eliminators on front I was dropping front springs. Also bottoming out on front and rear shocks so needed to extend my bump stops. Decided to put the Bilstein shocks back on sized for the previous budget boost. Lost droop as expected, but added a little length to the front shock to make up what I could. No longer dropping front springs and did lose suspension droop, so a trade off for reliability. I may look at extending or somehow moving the mount on the rear shock to give back some droop, if a common sense solution comes to me. Not too worried as I wheel with the rear sway bar on anyhow. As for the front- I will revisit the fox shocks and spring retention if I decide to go long arm in the future. And somewhere in there I did install longer rear sway bar links to set it at a better angle and safe from going full vertical on full droop.

Mid next month I will hammer it on Bald Mountain and see how it does. In the meantime, STILL waiting for my H&K Gate Keeper radiator guard- ordered mid-June! And with 1.3 degrees caster, intend to shorten upper front arms to add another degree and flirt with front u-joint angle. Give and take, there has to be a sweet spot somewhere!
 
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Had to do a little adulting and let the suspension alone for the moment. The WJ's left blinker didn't work intermittently and eventually almost never. Gotta love the Tube of U (I like the content, not the company so I don't like to call them out proper, please ignore my ism), there was more than one video showing the blinker relay usually is the culprit- cold solder joints that crack with age. By naked eye all looked very good- but sure as shootin', under 7x microscope, 5 of 9 contact spade solder joints had cracks in them. Reflowed the solder with a little flux and inspected, slapped relay cover back on, installed and tested good. Right/left blinkers work on command now! No money spent and less than an hour start to finish.

View attachment 268680 View attachment 268681

For anyone still following here is a suspension update:

Fox shocks for 4" lift too long, even without bar pin eliminators on front I was dropping front springs. Also bottoming out on front and rear shocks so needed to extend my bump stops. Decided to put the Bilstein shocks back on sized for the previous budget boost. Lost droop as expected, but added a little length to the front shock to make up what I could. No longer dropping front springs and did lose suspension droop, so a trade off for reliability. I may look at extending or somehow moving the mount on the rear shock to give back some droop, if a common sense solution comes to me. Not too worried as I wheel with the rear sway bar on anyhow. As for the front- I will revisit the fox shocks and spring retention if I decide to go long arm in the future. And somewhere in there I did install longer rear sway bar links to set it at a better angle and safe from going full vertical on full droop.

Mid next month I will hammer it on Bald Mountain and see how it does. In the meantime, STILL waiting for my H&K Gate Keeper radiator guard- ordered mid-June! And with 1.3 degrees caster, intend to shorten upper front arms to add another degree and flirt with front u-joint angle. Give and take, there has to be a sweet spot somewhere!
Love the build updates. We have been fighting the caster/driveline angle battle with our WJ for years, has been good for a while now with no deathwobble, decent highway manners, but just a touch of vibration. We have 250k on it currently and last weekend getting it ready for winter, I found some noticeable movement in both transfer case outputs, and a bunch of fluid that appears to be leaking out of where the cases split. thinking its time to either pull the powertrain for a refresh, or consider parting with it, which will not make Michelle happy as it is her favorite rig. Its pretty impressive that the stock running gear has held up for so many hard miles and proven to be one capable rig.
 
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JimBill

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We have been fighting the caster/driveline angle battle with our WJ for years, has been good for a while now with no deathwobble, decent highway manners, but just a touch of vibration. We have 250k on it currently and last weekend getting it ready for winter, I found some noticeable movement in both transfer case outputs, and a bunch of fluid that appears to be leaking out of where the cases split. thinking its time to either pull the powertrain for a refresh, or consider parting with it, which will not make Michelle happy as it is her favorite rig. Its pretty impressive that the stock running gear has held up for so many hard miles and proven to be one capable rig.
Any hint on how far I can take the front u-joint angle based on your WJ experience? I understand experiences vary! Very impressive on the 250K on stock running gear. These days it is a hard call to fix or replace. Facing the same on my daily driver Tahoe. They just are not making them anymore pretty well applies to my vehicle wants. Getting something close to replacing my older vehicle experience is way too expensive to be worth it, buying a good shape used anything is very hard to find and still very expensive. I'm mostly planted in mind that if I have something that works for me, it is best for me to just keeping fix it up. A transmission or rebuilding the LS in the Tahoe is far more economical than replacing the vehicle with a like capable vehicle. Same with my WJ now. I've been bouncing around the idea of buying a WJ to put on non-op for when the day comes when mine is used up. It's getting weird out there!
 

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What I have learned about the WJ so far: (no revelations but observations and confirming what others say...)

Ride is fantastic off road. I went from a 76 Cherokee to a Z71 Chevy Truck to a Tahoe to the WJ. The WJ is the most comfortable platform yet!
Flex is good stock, but disconnect front sway bar. The flex will increase even more dramatically, earn comments from the IFS guys, and reward you with a Cadillac ride off road. But, tire clearance amps to a whole new game when disconnected. A little rub when testing will be a major rub when in the rough. Bumpstop spacer length needs to be dailed in. To get the most out of the vehicle on road, after a lift definitely add the appropriate extended sway bar links and make sure geometry is in spec.

I really, really, really prefer the ride with the Rancho 5000x shocks over the Billsteins (which I thought were good). I can feel more with the Rancho, but it is not jarring or harsh, just better trail feedback so I know what is going on and less bottoming on the bumpstops. Doing 45 mph over washboard in Saline Valley made for a pleasant drive (but it killed the Billstein shocks). Install front bumpstop spacers, real ones, not the cheap boxed ones, when you install an upgraded track bar. Keep the bar off of the oil pan at full compression! Also, a 2x4 can be used as a replacement bumpstop spacer if you crush said cheap thin Amazon spacers doing 45 mph and hit an erosion ditch in the road.

Packing the WJ is a challenge, the cargo room and load capacity is limited. I had to get a backpacking mindset back. I do not feel much difference in handling with cargo on the roof (the Tahoe would sway noticeably). But mpg suffers. Coming home from the last trip, with gas cans on the roof and fighting the wind on highways 99 and 152, I was down 1 1/2 mpg. The cargo weight (max vehicle weight) of the WJ is limiting. Me and my co-pilot are big people, so we use up a bit of weight capacity. I took the electric seat frames out and installed manual, saving 20 pounds each. This allows me to carry my tool kit and a bit of recovery gear without going into the weight budget. With the rear seat bottoms removed, I lay out the soft toolbags across the floorboard and strap them in. Access is good and the weight is very low and centered in the vehicle. The axe and shovel fit under the folded down back seat top. With just a cooler and the tools/recovery gear, the ride is very neutral and the WJ ride is incredibly smooth. But a 7 day trip to Death Valley, with full load out and 2 people, put us just above max. With just me, I could do a 14 day trip and stay well below max weight.....

The hydraulic cooling fan makes me nervous. Temp bounces between 195 and 215+ seemingly at random. Strangely, temp drops if I run high range on long uphill grades and keep the RPMs down. I believe it is because the transmission temp increases enough to kick the fan into gear. With the 4.7, overtemp is a killer, so I would like some control of the cooling system. Underhood temps are always much higher then I like, the fan at idle does not push any airflow through the engine bay. The later model 3 wire solenoid is not adjustable so I have to live with the low fan idle rpm. I believe any constant airflow will help maintain a steady 195, and be that much easier on underhood components. For that reason a conversion to the 99-2000 electric/mechanical fan system is in the works. I will run the mechanical as primary and the electric fan to kick in at 200 degrees. I want the piece of mind I will not overheat this engine.

Why 3 1/2 inch lift? I chose this used WJ specifically for how it was optioned. It has full skids (i wanted the gas tank skid), Cardan joints (no Repezza), 242 transfer case, and Dana 44, V8 for me and a sunroof for the copilot. It will handle just below 4" lift withough needing to drop the transfer case, replace drivelines, install a slip yoke eliminator kit, and the like. At 4 inches things become marginal, and to do it right the expense goes way up. To the point where you might as well go 6". I am amazed at what I have done with the budget boost, and feel I will be able to do what I want without going extreme. 3 1/2 inch is the best value for the capability. And I will still be able to source many junk yard parts (like drivelines) if I need to get out of a jamb. Also, road manners will be fantastic. Going long arm in the front is just for luxury....and in case I want more later.

On this WJ, the two weakest points are the radiator and Dana 44HD aluminum housing. I will be adding a Goliath front skid to protect the radiator. The factory plastic bumper offers no protection. Any slip against a rock, a hit a stump while driving through grass or snow, it gets backed into, etc. will pop the radiator. A little steel in front will help that. The aluminum housing on the D44HD cannot be jacked up from the pumpkin, or it can deform and screw the ring and pinion setup. Same goes if you smack one of the axle tubes. Otherwise it is more than formidable for the platform. So in will go a truss and skid plate modified differential.

Lastly the gas tanks hang low. Even with just the budget boost, the only thing I have smacked on the trail is the gas tank when coming down a granite step. So a tank tuck is planned in the future.
I just joined this forum and this is my first post. I know this is an old thread but I’m curious how the swap to the duel cooling system went.
I had a 2000 WJ with the stick clutch fan and electric fan. I now own an 04 Overland with the hydraulic system.
I’ve found the later to be a much better cooling system.
With the duel system I had major temperature swings. The temp would increase significantly just sitting in traffic . Once the temperature got over 210 the E Fan would kick in and bring the temp down to 195 but with the hydraulic fan it never moves.
Most people find the hydraulic system much better than the stock cooling on the older WJs.
 

JimBill

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What I have learned about the WJ so far: (no revelations but observations and confirming what others say...)

Ride is fantastic off road. I went from a 76 Cherokee to a Z71 Chevy Truck to a Tahoe to the WJ. The WJ is the most comfortable platform yet!
Flex is good stock, but disconnect front sway bar. The flex will increase even more dramatically, earn comments from the IFS guys, and reward you with a Cadillac ride off road. But, tire clearance amps to a whole new game when disconnected. A little rub when testing will be a major rub when in the rough. Bumpstop spacer length needs to be dailed in. To get the most out of the vehicle on road, after a lift definitely add the appropriate extended sway bar links and make sure geometry is in spec.

I really, really, really prefer the ride with the Rancho 5000x shocks over the Billsteins (which I thought were good). I can feel more with the Rancho, but it is not jarring or harsh, just better trail feedback so I know what is going on and less bottoming on the bumpstops. Doing 45 mph over washboard in Saline Valley made for a pleasant drive (but it killed the Billstein shocks). Install front bumpstop spacers, real ones, not the cheap boxed ones, when you install an upgraded track bar. Keep the bar off of the oil pan at full compression! Also, a 2x4 can be used as a replacement bumpstop spacer if you crush said cheap thin Amazon spacers doing 45 mph and hit an erosion ditch in the road.

Packing the WJ is a challenge, the cargo room and load capacity is limited. I had to get a backpacking mindset back. I do not feel much difference in handling with cargo on the roof (the Tahoe would sway noticeably). But mpg suffers. Coming home from the last trip, with gas cans on the roof and fighting the wind on highways 99 and 152, I was down 1 1/2 mpg. The cargo weight (max vehicle weight) of the WJ is limiting. Me and my co-pilot are big people, so we use up a bit of weight capacity. I took the electric seat frames out and installed manual, saving 20 pounds each. This allows me to carry my tool kit and a bit of recovery gear without going into the weight budget. With the rear seat bottoms removed, I lay out the soft toolbags across the floorboard and strap them in. Access is good and the weight is very low and centered in the vehicle. The axe and shovel fit under the folded down back seat top. With just a cooler and the tools/recovery gear, the ride is very neutral and the WJ ride is incredibly smooth. But a 7 day trip to Death Valley, with full load out and 2 people, put us just above max. With just me, I could do a 14 day trip and stay well below max weight.....

The hydraulic cooling fan makes me nervous. Temp bounces between 195 and 215+ seemingly at random. Strangely, temp drops if I run high range on long uphill grades and keep the RPMs down. I believe it is because the transmission temp increases enough to kick the fan into gear. With the 4.7, overtemp is a killer, so I would like some control of the cooling system. Underhood temps are always much higher then I like, the fan at idle does not push any airflow through the engine bay. The later model 3 wire solenoid is not adjustable so I have to live with the low fan idle rpm. I believe any constant airflow will help maintain a steady 195, and be that much easier on underhood components. For that reason a conversion to the 99-2000 electric/mechanical fan system is in the works. I will run the mechanical as primary and the electric fan to kick in at 200 degrees. I want the piece of mind I will not overheat this engine.

Why 3 1/2 inch lift? I chose this used WJ specifically for how it was optioned. It has full skids (i wanted the gas tank skid), Cardan joints (no Repezza), 242 transfer case, and Dana 44, V8 for me and a sunroof for the copilot. It will handle just below 4" lift withough needing to drop the transfer case, replace drivelines, install a slip yoke eliminator kit, and the like. At 4 inches things become marginal, and to do it right the expense goes way up. To the point where you might as well go 6". I am amazed at what I have done with the budget boost, and feel I will be able to do what I want without going extreme. 3 1/2 inch is the best value for the capability. And I will still be able to source many junk yard parts (like drivelines) if I need to get out of a jamb. Also, road manners will be fantastic. Going long arm in the front is just for luxury....and in case I want more later.

On this WJ, the two weakest points are the radiator and Dana 44HD aluminum housing. I will be adding a Goliath front skid to protect the radiator. The factory plastic bumper offers no protection. Any slip against a rock, a hit a stump while driving through grass or snow, it gets backed into, etc. will pop the radiator. A little steel in front will help that. The aluminum housing on the D44HD cannot be jacked up from the pumpkin, or it can deform and screw the ring and pinion setup. Same goes if you smack one of the axle tubes. Otherwise it is more than formidable for the platform. So in will go a truss and skid plate modified differential.

Lastly the gas tanks hang low. Even with just the budget boost, the only thing I have smacked on the trail is the gas tank when coming down a granite step. So a tank tuck is planned in the future.
I just joined this forum and this is my first post. I know this is an old thread but I’m curious how the swap to the duel cooling system went.
I had a 2000 WJ with the stick clutch fan and electric fan. I now own an 04 Overland with the hydraulic system.
I’ve found the later to be a much better cooling system.
With the duel system I had major temperature swings. The temp would increase significantly just sitting in traffic . Once the temperature got over 210 the E Fan would kick in and bring the temp down to 195 but with the hydraulic fan it never moves.
Most people find the hydraulic system much better than the stock cooling on the older WJs.
Thanks for the message. This thread is my ongoing diary for me, and my postings are a record for me to refresh memory when needed and to add to the WJ information pool. Definitely user results vary!
The hydraulic fan system was Jeeps response to beef up the cooling system for tow rating. It is an excellent system and does move a serious amount of air when it needs to.
In my case, two things drove me to change it. First, it’s control curve was hotter than I was comfortable with and non adjustable. There is a 2 wire and a three wire solenoid, one is adjustable and the other not. Mine was the non adjustable. So in a search for a new adjustable one, I found parts for this system were relegated to a junkyard search.
Second, if there is any failure in the power steering system, cooling is lost as well. That made me nervous- the V8 is lucky to survive even a single overheating combined with quite a bit of experience loosing power steering across multiple vehicle makes over my lifetime. And parts are very hard to find for it.
These thoughts led me to want to replace it with 2 separate systems and revert to the older system where parts are readily available and a failure only takes out 1 system.
The changes were made and I instantly ran into the temperature swings you described, and also in short order had a clutch fan failure in high load, triple digit temperatures while also extremely remote.
Parts were readily available overnight and fixed in a parking lot, saving the trip. Mods made to make it work correctly as well. I switched the protocol of the system so the clutch fan is primary and the electric is secondary. Tuning the clutch fan spring I was able to get the fan engagement curve to my liking. And in fact the electric fan sits in reserve and ready to be switched on if I need it, it hasn’t been turned on in over 2 years.
There is more details and additional nuances learned and documented throughout the build thread.
The V8 engine compartment is stuffed and the aerodynamics of the front push too much air under the vehicle. Regardless of what drives the fan I think it can’t exhaust the air adequately when at speed, high rpm, and at load. Think pressure differential before and after radiator.
The hydraulic fan does however have the brute strength to force air movement! If it meets your needs and is in good working order, it definitely can be the best choice.
 

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Day trip to Bald Mountain in this weekend's first decent storm of the year. Rain, slush, snow. Last time on this trail was 2019 with budget boost, 30.5 all terrains, and stock suspension. This trip is after all the mods per my previous posts (fully adj suspension arms, 3" IRO springs, "32's", 7/8 rear sway bar, trimming and bumpstop tuning, etc.). It was a nice shake out both on and off highway.

Highway: Figured out a tire pressure that seemed to work well for the Duratrack LTs. 25 front/28 back. No feeling of wanting to death wobble, very sure footed and no bouncing around on potholes, tolerable lean on cornering. Much improved highway manners, including a sudden evasive lane change on hwy 99 with full control. I still plan to add a little more caster angle but it feels a heck of a lot better on road.

Trail- Duratracks at 15 PSI. Stuck like glue. I do not like them in summer marbles over hardpan around here, but they gripped incredible in the Sierra terrain. Per reports of the caravan, it is getting great flex and tire stuff, with no sounds of suspension metal to metal, not a single tire rub heard even with it disconnected. Running the Bilstein's sized for the budget boost with bar pin eliminator to help a little with droop (took longer Fox shocks off for now). No springs popping out and never felt like I needed more droop. WJ did incredible, at one point serving as a winch point for a gen 3 4 Runner that had to figure out traction control woes on the gatekeeper climb.

Summary- It was more fun with less tip toeing around than the 2019 trip. Same reaction as then from the IFS guys about the WJ soccer mom's Jeep flex and performance. I'm a very happy camper at the moment with the performance and capability. Unrelated to this trip, only repair is a leaky diff seal that needed to be done before the trip anyhow.

No action shots, due to weather I could not get any volunteers to hang outside on the fun sections.

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1700514607749.png
 
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Sometime last winter (or last spring??) finally upped the armor a bit, and protected the WJ radiator overbite with an HK Offroad GateKeeper radiator guard.
Remove front bumper skin, remove recovery hooks, cut off old support, cut off lower radiator mounts to about 1/4 inch.
Reinstall rubber radiator mounts, bolt up Gatekeeper armor, cut a little more off the bumper skin, install bumper skin, and done!
Pretty straight forward once I got over taking a sawazall to my WJ again. Of course the usual- clean up bolts and threads being re-used, clean up and paint fresh cuts, etc.

Next up-
1) Cut and reweld the brush guard to fit a bit higher and forward, it will be a good companion to the GateKeeper.
2) Finally get to fabricating a quick detach air dam to help cooling on the highway.
3) Hood vents.

My license plate is all over this thread, so screw it, here are the pictures:

before.jpg cut off.jpg

gone.jpg installed.jpg

done.jpg
 
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Massachusetts
First Name
Andrew
Last Name
Beagle
Member #

0

Love that you still have this. Kinda wish I had kept mine. If I sunk 25% of my truck payment into my old WJ instead of buying the truck, my WJ could be like yours. I've read the beginning and this page. Will fill in the middle later but nice Jeep!
 
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