1999 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 questions

[Paulo Filho]

Hi guys and gals,

I appreciate all the feedback I’ve been getting on all my questions. You guys have been awesome.

I have a few questions regarding a potential rig I saw for sale. Im thinking about buying a 99 Jeep Cherokee for around 6-7k with 90k miles. Any thoughts on whether or not this rig is a good investment?

Also any risk I should be watchful for when looking st the rig? The guy mentioned they are okay wit me taking it to a shop to get inspected prior to buying.

Also are there many after market parts for Jeeps?

Thank you guys so much!

 

[Graeman]

Does it have the inline 6 cylinder motor? Ask about the transmission and how has it been serviced. You can't go wrong with a Cherokee, as they have been around for a long time, great off road platform, plenty of aftermarket items for it, strong 6 cylinder engines.

 

[Paulo Filho]

Yeah it’s 6 cylinders. Let me ask about the transmission. I think he said it’s 99 Jeep Cherokee classic

 

[Graeman]

Those are nice looking

 

[JDGreens]

Nice thing about the cherokee is it is very capable off road with out doing anything to it. Also yes there is a huge amount aftermarket parts for this vehicle (from mild to wild). If the cherokee is in excellent shape with that low of mileage the price isn't bad. Also a very good year to work with, But the thing to consider is the XJ is very easy to fix for the most part. As long as it's in good shape (no rust body and frame) the parts are available to make it a dependable vehicle even if it has 235k like mine does.

 

[MetalHeadXJ]

Cherokees are my favorite out of the box 4x4. I've owned over a dozen of them and they've all gone over 300k miles. For me its the perfect size, good fuel economy and good power. Plenty of storage room, passenger space, you just can't beat a Cherokee!

 

[JimInBC]

Watch for rust, floor, door sill anywhere underneath.

The 6 is a great engine, though really preferred it's oil changes done regularly.

That is a low milage engine.

There are so many after market parts
Lots of online forums and other resources for doing your own work.

I am on my second 97.

 

[JDGreens]

Depending on how you plan on using it. If you stay mild your fine, but if you plan on pushing it with big tires and lift to run some of the rougher stuff you would be well served to plate the frame with stiffeners right off the bat. The whole body twist while doing the rough stuff.

I have a long list of up-grades for my rig that I hope to get done over the winter. Many I wished I'd done from the get go. One thing I would advise is keeping your gearing correct with your tire size. That will help avoid over heating. And also make offroading your xj a pleasure. Run it stock and you will see how incredible it works. Through taller tires on it and loose that instantly. I'm playing catch-up now.

 

[Paulo Filho]

Depending on how you plan on using it. If you stay mild your fine, but if you plan on pushing it with big tires and lift to run some of the rougher stuff you would be well served to plate the frame with stiffeners right off the bat. The whole body twist while doing the rough stuff.

I have a long list of up-grades for my rig that I hope to get done over the winter. Many I wished I'd done from the get go. One thing I would advise is keeping your gearing correct with your tire size. That will help avoid over heating. And also make offroading your xj a pleasure. Run it stock and you will see how incredible it works. Through taller tires on it and loose that instantly. I'm playing catch-up now.

Thanks for the awesome advice!

I’ve been looking at a few cherokees and was very surprised to see the low mileage and low prices! Compared to the land cruisers, it’s a steal!!!

 

[Paulo Filho]

Do you guys recommend buying rigs that have been off roads and have been messed with aftermarket parts or recommend getting a rig that hasn’t been tampered with?

 

[JimInBC]

I feel you should get as close to stock as you can.

 

[Paulo Filho]

I feel you should get as close to stock as you can.

Got it, thank you!

 

[JDGreens]

I feel you should get as close to stock as you can.

I agree, because you will get to make the changes that will suit you.
Mine was already lifted, looked great, but not really trail ready. 33"s and stock gearing just doesn't work. I have basically rce-built the entire lift, axles and so many other things. Learned a lot in the process. But a stock rig would be a better place to have started with.

 

[303JETSET]

I would recommend trying to find something as stock as possible with good maintenance history. I would only buy a modded unit if I knew who did the work and how they drove it. It is more expensive to mod the modifications after you buy it, but the piece of mind knowing it was done right is invaluable. I am editing the built series on mine and will have it posted up soon.
Things to look for:
Rust. Floorboards, rockers, unibody, around the windows, and the roof.

If it has AC, does it work. Mine is something like an asthmatic blowing through a straw.

Which rear axle does it have? Dana 35 or the Chrysler 8.25. The Chrysler is far better than the D35 if you plan on going with larger tires. If it does have the D35, you can always swap the earlier D44, the C8.25, or like I did the Ford 8.8.

If optioned out, make sure everything works. The locks and window controls can be problematic as the wiring in the door jams has a tendency to break over time. Also, if the windows and locks only work from the driver controls, it is likely either the module itself or the lock out switch.

Transmission cooler, transmission cooler, transmission cooler if it is an automatic

The headlights are terrible stock. I went H4 conversion with new harness, but there are many other options available including LED and HID

There are so many ways to build these things up it is ridiculous. Drive it for a while stock and determine your true needs. Build it for what you are doing the most. An 8” lift with full width axles holding 38s for 99% street driving is probably overkill unless you’re into that sort of thing. Conversely, while these are so amazingly capable out the box, a good set of ATs, skid plates, and upgraded springs and shocks to handle the weight of your adventure gear is a wise investment. That’s were I started...but haven’t stopped yet.

 

[4wheelspulling]

I would recommend trying to find something as stock as possible with good maintenance history. I would only buy a modded unit if I knew who did the work and how they drove it. It is more expensive to mod the modifications after you buy it, but the piece of mind knowing it was done right is invaluable. I am editing the built series on mine and will have it posted up soon.
Things to look for:
Rust. Floorboards, rockers, unibody, around the windows, and the roof.

If it has AC, does it work. Mine is something like an asthmatic blowing through a straw.

Which rear axle does it have? Dana 35 or the Chrysler 8.25. The Chrysler is far better than the D35 if you plan on going with larger tires. If it does have the D35, you can always swap the earlier D44, the C8.25, or like I did the Ford 8.8.

If optioned out, make sure everything works. The locks and window controls can be problematic as the wiring in the door jams has a tendency to break over time. Also, if the windows and locks only work from the driver controls, it is likely either the module itself or the lock out switch.

Transmission cooler, transmission cooler, transmission cooler if it is an automatic

The headlights are terrible stock. I went H4 conversion with new harness, but there are many other options available including LED and HID

There are so many ways to build these things up it is ridiculous. Drive it for a while stock and determine your true needs. Build it for what you are doing the most. An 8” lift with full width axles holding 38s for 99% street driving is probably overkill unless you’re into that sort of thing. Conversely, while these are so amazingly capable out the box, a good set of ATs, skid plates, and upgraded springs and shocks to handle the weight of your adventure gear is a wise investment. That’s were I started...but haven’t stopped yet.

View attachment 70342[/QUOT
X2, You could not of said it much better than that to understand these great SUVS ! Benz.

 

[Paulo Filho]

I would recommend trying to find something as stock as possible with good maintenance history. I would only buy a modded unit if I knew who did the work and how they drove it. It is more expensive to mod the modifications after you buy it, but the piece of mind knowing it was done right is invaluable. I am editing the built series on mine and will have it posted up soon.
Things to look for:
Rust. Floorboards, rockers, unibody, around the windows, and the roof.

If it has AC, does it work. Mine is something like an asthmatic blowing through a straw.

Which rear axle does it have? Dana 35 or the Chrysler 8.25. The Chrysler is far better than the D35 if you plan on going with larger tires. If it does have the D35, you can always swap the earlier D44, the C8.25, or like I did the Ford 8.8.

If optioned out, make sure everything works. The locks and window controls can be problematic as the wiring in the door jams has a tendency to break over time. Also, if the windows and locks only work from the driver controls, it is likely either the module itself or the lock out switch.

Transmission cooler, transmission cooler, transmission cooler if it is an automatic

The headlights are terrible stock. I went H4 conversion with new harness, but there are many other options available including LED and HID

There are so many ways to build these things up it is ridiculous. Drive it for a while stock and determine your true needs. Build it for what you are doing the most. An 8” lift with full width axles holding 38s for 99% street driving is probably overkill unless you’re into that sort of thing. Conversely, while these are so amazingly capable out the box, a good set of ATs, skid plates, and upgraded springs and shocks to handle the weight of your adventure gear is a wise investment. That’s were I started...but haven’t stopped yet.

View attachment 70342

Super nice build! Thank you for the detailed explanation of recommendations. I was thinking about a Jeep or a land cruiser but the land cruisers are super expansive and hard to find in low miles and with no mod.

I think for now, a Cherokee may be a great start.

 

[303JETSET]

I have thought about selling my XJ and getting a Land Cruiser, but for what people are asking for a clean, comparable mileage, stock FZJ80 with factory lockers, you can buy an XJ and kit the whole thing out for the same price, if you are turning the wrenches. Even if you are paying someone else to do the work, you can lift and lock and XJ for far less money. Don’t get me wrong. I love the LC, especially the 80 series. They are roomier, the seats are more comfortable, and you get a sunroof. When a buddy and I had a couple to many, we argued this out figuring what it would cost to build what we have now. We found stock XJ and LC on Craigslist and figured what our kits cost. It would cost more than double to build the LC, and in the end we both still have a solid axled SUV with a straight 6.

 

[Paulo Filho]

I have thought about selling my XJ and getting a Land Cruiser, but for what people are asking for a clean, comparable mileage, stock FZJ80 with factory lockers, you can buy an XJ and kit the whole thing out for the same price, if you are turning the wrenches. Even if you are paying someone else to do the work, you can lift and lock and XJ for far less money. Don’t get me wrong. I love the LC, especially the 80 series. They are roomier, the seats are more comfortable, and you get a sunroof. When a buddy and I had a couple to many, we argued this out figuring what it would cost to build what we have now. We found stock XJ and LC on Craigslist and figured what our kits cost. It would cost more than double to build the LC, and in the end we both still have a solid axled SUV with a straight 6.

That’s insane! What about the repair and maintenance on both vehicles. Is it pretty similar or does it tend to be more expansive on a Jeep cherokee than on a Toyota LC?

Also how difficult is it to find aftermarket parks to mod it for both rigs?

 

[303JETSET]

If you do the work, maintenance such as fluid changes are comparable. Both are bulletproof rigs. If you do your due diligence, either vehicle has minimal reliability issues or high maintenance. It’s the higher buy-in and cost to modify the LC that makes the difference in this comparison. The aftermarket support for the XJ is truly massive. There are hundreds of manufacturers making products for every single inch of it. As the market for these vehicles is so huge, the price for many of the components is more competitive. The LC market is good, but with fewer manufacturers making products, the market is not nearly as competitive. Fewer manufacturers making competitively fewer products generally results in higher prices as there is no saturation in the market. It is my understanding that there are more companies making products for the LC available in the States as manufacturers from the likes of South Africa, Australia and Europe are adding more and more US distributors. There are also more US custom shops manufacturing products for this platform as well. In the end, there are simply more XJs on the road than LCs. Safety in numbers.

Make no mistake about it, I have never met anyone that was not happy with their LC. You can’t go wrong with either rig. I chose mine at the time because I got a crazy deal in 2003 on an early lease return 2001 XJ and could not have possibly afforded a comparable LC. With all I have done to mine to this point, there simply would not be enough gained by switching to the LC. That being said, I am in a different place now. If I was new to the fray and was looking at these two I would lean toward the LC as I am now married with 2 kids. The additional space would be welcome. If I was still single, I would probably go the XJ route. Guess I am make this clear as mud...

 

[RParker762]

Here is my 99 on 33s. It has stock gearing but does ok on the road. I get about 14mpg on the hiway. In town only about 11. Its a 4.5" Rubicon Express lift. Off road its great but haven't done much wheeling since getting it. I had a 96 with 3" and 31s and it did a little better. Just keep up with the maintenance and let the gearing do the work and it should last a long time. I have 209k on mine now. I am thinking of getting a set of 31s for the road and keeping the 33s for wheeling.