I am looking at buying an XJ to build my overland rig. I have found someone interested in trading one for my RTT trailer but am not sure if I want to get such an old vehicle. What is everyone else's opinions?
1990 XJ? Is it worth it?
- Thread starter Colben_22
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I daily drove an 87 and now a 96, I love XJs. They are pretty dang easy to work on and I have yet to not find a part at the store or wrecking yard. That one showing all the new lower parts I would hazard a guess that a lift was recently added and an alignment not done after which means you could be dealing with someone elses problems. Do a really good thorough once over and read here for a ton of good advice on renix era jeeps. cruiser54
I am a fan of XJs. I have three of them...
Not to say "don't do it", but to make you aware of the potential issues you will need to face: A 1990 is a Renix system. The Renix system can be challenging to diagnose when there are engine sensor problems. It is not that it can't be done, it just requires a different approach. Renix computers don't play like OBDI or II. Very few scanners even talk to Renix computers. A Snap-On MT2500 (aka "brick") is one that will. Alternatively, there is a new tool made specifically for the Renix. Do a search for "Nick in Time Renix" and you should come up with the latest development on that front.
Looking at the one pic offered I will suggest that vehicle probably doesn't allow for much articulation. That looks like a pretty low lift for the tire size. A low COG (Center of Gravity) can be a good thing, but if the suspension isn't properly bump stopped you are going to have tire-fender interference issues. Try to figure out if it has been properly bump stopped. Otherwise you are looking at adding bump stops, trimming fenders or adding lift. And if you go for adding lift you can expect additional issues to crop up. An SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) will probably be the next thing (to cure driveline vibrations).
With XJs in general, rust is the biggest issue. Don't buy it without looking at the floor pans. It is probably simplest to look at them from underneath. Feel them with your fingertips. Expect to find some rust over the catalytic converter. What you don't want to find is rust in every single footwell and in the rocker panels. Worst of all is rust in the frame rails.
While you are underneath, check around the steering gear box. Look for cracks in the frame rail. Ideally you will find that someone has already added reinforcement in this area. If they haven't, you should plan to do so.
I would also inspect door hinges where they mount to the body. The driver's door is the most likely problem, but look at all of them while you are at it. The hinges have a tendency to break loose from their welds to the body. This gets worse the heavier the doors are, so a 2 door with power windows/locks/aftermarket speakers is going to have the worst case scenario while a 4 door with manual windows/locks/nothing added to the doors is least likely to have issues. But, add teenagers messing around with things and all things become suspect.
After you look it over really well, only you can decide if it is worth it. Among other considerations, I would ask if you are good with tools. An older XJ (any 30 year old vehicle for that matter) is going to give you plenty of opportunity for turning a wrench. And as to trading your trailer, what would be the market value if you were to put it up for sale? You will have to give that an honest assessment.
Not to say "don't do it", but to make you aware of the potential issues you will need to face: A 1990 is a Renix system. The Renix system can be challenging to diagnose when there are engine sensor problems. It is not that it can't be done, it just requires a different approach. Renix computers don't play like OBDI or II. Very few scanners even talk to Renix computers. A Snap-On MT2500 (aka "brick") is one that will. Alternatively, there is a new tool made specifically for the Renix. Do a search for "Nick in Time Renix" and you should come up with the latest development on that front.
Looking at the one pic offered I will suggest that vehicle probably doesn't allow for much articulation. That looks like a pretty low lift for the tire size. A low COG (Center of Gravity) can be a good thing, but if the suspension isn't properly bump stopped you are going to have tire-fender interference issues. Try to figure out if it has been properly bump stopped. Otherwise you are looking at adding bump stops, trimming fenders or adding lift. And if you go for adding lift you can expect additional issues to crop up. An SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) will probably be the next thing (to cure driveline vibrations).
With XJs in general, rust is the biggest issue. Don't buy it without looking at the floor pans. It is probably simplest to look at them from underneath. Feel them with your fingertips. Expect to find some rust over the catalytic converter. What you don't want to find is rust in every single footwell and in the rocker panels. Worst of all is rust in the frame rails.
While you are underneath, check around the steering gear box. Look for cracks in the frame rail. Ideally you will find that someone has already added reinforcement in this area. If they haven't, you should plan to do so.
I would also inspect door hinges where they mount to the body. The driver's door is the most likely problem, but look at all of them while you are at it. The hinges have a tendency to break loose from their welds to the body. This gets worse the heavier the doors are, so a 2 door with power windows/locks/aftermarket speakers is going to have the worst case scenario while a 4 door with manual windows/locks/nothing added to the doors is least likely to have issues. But, add teenagers messing around with things and all things become suspect.
After you look it over really well, only you can decide if it is worth it. Among other considerations, I would ask if you are good with tools. An older XJ (any 30 year old vehicle for that matter) is going to give you plenty of opportunity for turning a wrench. And as to trading your trailer, what would be the market value if you were to put it up for sale? You will have to give that an honest assessment.
I loved my last XJ and paid $1,900 for it with 178k miles. A/C compressor did not work but it needed nothing else. The price on that one seems pretty steep even with the mods. As a reference I paid $2500 for my 92 Land Cruiser with 226k miles and it had almost new 33" BFG A/T's on it, no rust, great interior, and not much work needed besides baselining. Both of those were bought in Colorado and prices seem steeper here than other places. That said, I'm from your area originally and know that people really value their 4x4's and the price typically reflects that. Now that 4Runner next to the XJ in the pic for $3500... 
I’ve got a ‘98 XJ, and really enjoy it. To add to the above suggestions... I’d encourage you to also check rust issues, and drive it. Drive it at low and high speeds and check for wobble. That’s a big reason some folks sell them after a new lift, they can’t solve the wobble.
I tend to stay away from already lifted vehicles unless I know who did the lift, it’s history, and ensure it’s a solid lift. Unknown lifts, in unknown condition, put on by unknown people is a put off for me.
On the price- prices on XJs are all over the place.
Check out cherokeeforum.com
I tend to stay away from already lifted vehicles unless I know who did the lift, it’s history, and ensure it’s a solid lift. Unknown lifts, in unknown condition, put on by unknown people is a put off for me.
On the price- prices on XJs are all over the place.
Check out cherokeeforum.com
Some really great knowledge here, especially from Anak.
Coming from adventure motorcycling, we purchased our first XJ three months ago when we moved to Vancouver Island. When searching for our first overland rig, the ideal criteria were basically the same as looking for a bike to take to Alaska:
1. Capable, reliable, common vehicle that is easy to work on. (For wheeling and overlanding, this obviously meant XJ. :)
2. Mechanically sound - no little niggling hidden issues/costs. I wanted to put most of my resources into overland additions, not into making it road worthy.
3. Minimal/no rust.
4. Everything works, all the lights, all the switches, all the stop and go, all the windows, etc. EVERYTHING.
4. Mostly stock, which equals, to me, unmodified and "unmolested", ie. I did not want to inherit someone else's mechanical ineptitudes.
5. Clean.
6. Aftermarket support.
Also, I wanted a hitch, so I didn't have to add one myself, either for towing or for recovery.
We almost did it right. :)
There were plenty of XJs selling for $6000 CAD, lifted, tires, bumpers, all sorts of light bars, etc. But they all had that "molested" feel, as if they weren't done properly, just dressed up and had the important stuff ignored.
We found our almost rust-free 1997 for $3500 CAD and talked him down to $3000. Since then I have put $2500 into it, including front tow hooks for recovery, 31 inch tires, a 3.5 inch lift (Rubicon Express coils and Rough Country longer shackles), new ZJ tie-rod, drag link, Rough Country adjustable track bar, steering box brace, sway bar disconnects and changed all the fluids. So now she costs $5500.
Turns out that this vehicle was being sold for a widow and it had sat for a while. We are now into the u-joint and ball joint stage. Bolts in the transmission drain pan were stripped and had to be repaired. the transmission cooler line has a leak. The steering box needed tightening. The springs are sagging when we put weight in. The new springs are going to push us vertical, which could mean transfer case drop, potentially longer driveshaft or the expensive slip yoke eliminator/accompanying aftermarket driveshaft. I need a longer rear brake line for the new springs. The reverse lights stopped working, which I figured was a fuse, but it was a neutral safety switch. The floor pans need small repairs to keep the rust from spreading. These are all reasonable issues with an older vehicle.
But all of this is going to cost more $$$ and most of all, time. Time to me is much more valuable than money. While maintenance is obviously one of the cornerstones of travelling in an older vehicle, working on this vehicle constantly is time away from my family and time away from overlanding. You may need to make concessions when a good deal comes around.
We did pretty good. The XJ works well, it just needs lots of TLC, and after all of those little jobs are done, I will have the piece of mind that she is refreshed. But it's so much time in the driveway, time away from my loved ones, time off the road.
After all of that, if I could do it again, I would have paid more for a cleaner, better maintained vehicle. My advice would be.....If you can find someone really competent who has put all of their blood, sweat and tears into their XJ, and is selling it with all of the common mechanical jobs completed, like brakes, bearings, seals, tie-rods, u-joints, suspension, fresh fluids and no oil, transmission, coolant or differential leaks, all of that little stuff, it will save you money and time in the long run. It should be clean and everything should work, even all the little switches on the dash. ;) Also, if they have a little bag of receipts for all the regular maintenance, that's a good sign.
When I read that ad, I see someone who bought the XJ, replaced what absolutely had to be done to drive it, including the front tires (alignment issue?) put in a stereo, and ignored the seemingly unnecessary jobs like the horn, the A/C, the E-Brake - none of these are necessary for wheeling with your music pumping, right? But they are necessary for overland travel, where safety and vehicle preservation are both critical.
I agree that this one is priced steep. If you could snag it for $2000-2500 it may be worth it, if it is in good condition. But as far as getting an XJ. Yes. Do it. I was absolutely floored when we tested this vehicle offroad. It is a beast!
Just my two cents. Good luck on your search and be safe out there.
Coming from adventure motorcycling, we purchased our first XJ three months ago when we moved to Vancouver Island. When searching for our first overland rig, the ideal criteria were basically the same as looking for a bike to take to Alaska:
1. Capable, reliable, common vehicle that is easy to work on. (For wheeling and overlanding, this obviously meant XJ. :)
2. Mechanically sound - no little niggling hidden issues/costs. I wanted to put most of my resources into overland additions, not into making it road worthy.
3. Minimal/no rust.
4. Everything works, all the lights, all the switches, all the stop and go, all the windows, etc. EVERYTHING.
4. Mostly stock, which equals, to me, unmodified and "unmolested", ie. I did not want to inherit someone else's mechanical ineptitudes.
5. Clean.
6. Aftermarket support.
Also, I wanted a hitch, so I didn't have to add one myself, either for towing or for recovery.
We almost did it right. :)
There were plenty of XJs selling for $6000 CAD, lifted, tires, bumpers, all sorts of light bars, etc. But they all had that "molested" feel, as if they weren't done properly, just dressed up and had the important stuff ignored.
We found our almost rust-free 1997 for $3500 CAD and talked him down to $3000. Since then I have put $2500 into it, including front tow hooks for recovery, 31 inch tires, a 3.5 inch lift (Rubicon Express coils and Rough Country longer shackles), new ZJ tie-rod, drag link, Rough Country adjustable track bar, steering box brace, sway bar disconnects and changed all the fluids. So now she costs $5500.
Turns out that this vehicle was being sold for a widow and it had sat for a while. We are now into the u-joint and ball joint stage. Bolts in the transmission drain pan were stripped and had to be repaired. the transmission cooler line has a leak. The steering box needed tightening. The springs are sagging when we put weight in. The new springs are going to push us vertical, which could mean transfer case drop, potentially longer driveshaft or the expensive slip yoke eliminator/accompanying aftermarket driveshaft. I need a longer rear brake line for the new springs. The reverse lights stopped working, which I figured was a fuse, but it was a neutral safety switch. The floor pans need small repairs to keep the rust from spreading. These are all reasonable issues with an older vehicle.
But all of this is going to cost more $$$ and most of all, time. Time to me is much more valuable than money. While maintenance is obviously one of the cornerstones of travelling in an older vehicle, working on this vehicle constantly is time away from my family and time away from overlanding. You may need to make concessions when a good deal comes around.
We did pretty good. The XJ works well, it just needs lots of TLC, and after all of those little jobs are done, I will have the piece of mind that she is refreshed. But it's so much time in the driveway, time away from my loved ones, time off the road.
After all of that, if I could do it again, I would have paid more for a cleaner, better maintained vehicle. My advice would be.....If you can find someone really competent who has put all of their blood, sweat and tears into their XJ, and is selling it with all of the common mechanical jobs completed, like brakes, bearings, seals, tie-rods, u-joints, suspension, fresh fluids and no oil, transmission, coolant or differential leaks, all of that little stuff, it will save you money and time in the long run. It should be clean and everything should work, even all the little switches on the dash. ;) Also, if they have a little bag of receipts for all the regular maintenance, that's a good sign.
When I read that ad, I see someone who bought the XJ, replaced what absolutely had to be done to drive it, including the front tires (alignment issue?) put in a stereo, and ignored the seemingly unnecessary jobs like the horn, the A/C, the E-Brake - none of these are necessary for wheeling with your music pumping, right? But they are necessary for overland travel, where safety and vehicle preservation are both critical.
I agree that this one is priced steep. If you could snag it for $2000-2500 it may be worth it, if it is in good condition. But as far as getting an XJ. Yes. Do it. I was absolutely floored when we tested this vehicle offroad. It is a beast!
Just my two cents. Good luck on your search and be safe out there.
Member III
I have/had 3 XJs, but none were Renix so I can't comment on that.
To me it appears that this one has/had driveline vibs, was driven after the lift without an alignment and my guess it probably has death wobble.
If I was looking for a trail beater then maybe for $2k, but if this is something you want to be reliable it will likely need a lot of work and there are many unknowns.
To me it appears that this one has/had driveline vibs, was driven after the lift without an alignment and my guess it probably has death wobble.
If I was looking for a trail beater then maybe for $2k, but if this is something you want to be reliable it will likely need a lot of work and there are many unknowns.
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I'd be looking at somewhere around $2000 on this one. It's a unibody and rusted frames are hard to live with and a common problem I'm told.
I have to say I wouldn't buy a xj pre 1991, for all the above reasons and more. Front axle has a vacuum actuator that is very problematic, the brake booster if not upgraded would need to be. Don't get me wrong, I also love my Xj. Funnest vehicle I have ever had. It is a 91' and I have done so much to it the list would be mind blowing. I still have several things to go before I'm done. But if I were to start over and I was going to go with an Xj again. I would get a 98 or early 99. 50% of all the work that you would have to do to the 90 xj is taken care of through the improvements they made in the 98-99 years. 2000-2001 they put a low pinion axle in them and went free on a distributor to coil packs. Also 1999-2001 the heads on them have a major flaw in the casting. So after time a large % of them develop crack.
I have confidance in the way my rig, even after 250k on the clock and wouldn't hesitate to overland it. But I might start over as I'm having trouble with my leg and my have to switch from the 5 spd. To a automatic tranny. So if I do I would be shopping for a red or blue 98-99 Xj. 4 door with a Automatic transmission.
Deragheth
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Personally, I would say the jeep xj is one of the best all around 4x4 vehicle ever. There are quirks with each generation of drivetrain but if you take the time to understand them they are a very solid vehicle. As mentioned already, check for rust and rot. The dreaded "death wobble" can be diagnosed pretty easily most of the time if you take the time and pay attention to the components as they move. The snap on mt 2500 is a great diag machine for the renix and can usually be found on ebay or craigslist for very cheap. I have owned a LOT of vehicles and always end up back in an xj. They will pretty much run forever if you keep up the maintenance. The only consistently problematic heads are the 00-01 with casting number 0331. The best model years are definitely 97 and 98 but I prefer the boxier style of the pre 97's. Currently I have a 98. As far as buying a lifted vehicle, I would say unless you or someone you can take with you to look at it have experience with lift kits on the vehicle you are looking at, skip it. Could be fine and have a great install and a great kit but unless you can tell for sure dont chance it. You make end up with a doctored up woods beater with who knows what for excessive wear on parts. I run an auto shop and also buy and sell used cars, and I have seen lots of creative stuff done to quiet noises or hide other problems. It could be a great jeep and I would encourage anyone with the slightest interest in an xj to buy one but be knowledgable when you go to see it. cherokeeforums.com, naxja.org jeepforum.com are some great places for info.
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For a running mostly intact XJ this price isn't to crazy depending on area. 20 to 30 years of abuse and sawsalls has taken its toll on the XJ population. That combined with renewed interest in the platform has resulted in increased demand with an ever decreasing supply.I loved my last XJ and paid $1,900 for it with 178k miles. A/C compressor did not work but it needed nothing else. The price on that one seems pretty steep even with the mods. As a reference I paid $2500 for my 92 Land Cruiser with 226k miles and it had almost new 33" BFG A/T's on it, no rust, great interior, and not much work needed besides baselining. Both of those were bought in Colorado and prices seem steeper here than other places. That said, I'm from your area originally and know that people really value their 4x4's and the price typically reflects that. Now that 4Runner next to the XJ in the pic for $3500...
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I think it all depends on where you live and how much abuse the truck will be subjected too. If you plan to beat it, then I would want a better platform than a unibody unless you are good with fabricating sub frame rails and roll bar cages. The thing I like about them is they are pretty simple to work on I am told. Still think $3500 is too much regardless of scarcity.
Deragheth
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