1990 Suburban V2500 Light Adventure build

[oldmopars]

The other area that I have been working on is the electrical. My original set-up had a solar panel on the roof and the rest of the system including the battery in the spare tire well. I did not like this for several reasons.
1. the tire on the roof was hard to get to, exposed to to UV rays (harmful to rubber).
2. The system did not charge while I drove around in the shaded areas. So, but night 2 the battery was dead.
3. It was a mess of wires and "stuff" in the back that just looked bad.
4. I did not want all the weight on the roof, and the solar panel is prone to break.

So, my solution was to move the battery up to the front under the hood. I made a new rack out of aluminum angle and bolted it into the front of the engine compartment.
I ordered a fuse panel, large relay, some small relays, and a switch panel. I also ordered some 9 conductor cable.
In the engine bay I installed the fuse panel, large relay and small relays. The large relay is controlled by a switch in the overhead console. I can turn it on and the relay will power and send power to the second battery to charge it while driving. This will keep it topped off all the time. The blue tape is just there to remind me of the wire colors, it will be gone soon. I am still in the finishing stages here, so there are wires to clean up and a few other things to finish, but it all works.
The small relays power the the front light bar, and will power other things in the future.
I also ran a large wire to the back and installed the Inverter for my wife's CPAP and anything else we need.
Up front I installed a new CB radio for communication on the trail. A GMRS will soon follow. I do have a handheld Ham, but still need to get the licence.
I also added this really nice vintage First Aid box. Don't worry, the contents are new and I will still add some more to it.

 

[Hoss2500]

Hey man , nice work on that. That rig is lookin good and more importantly functional. I am currenty working on my roof rack. I have a custom heavy duty rack because I am going to get a top tent. I want to leave room in the back so my pups can travel with me. I am going to have to weld some brackets to mount the rack though. Still working on ideas for that. I'll post up some pics when I can. Thanks alot for sharing.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

The other area that I have been working on is the electrical. My original set-up had a solar panel on the roof and the rest of the system including the battery in the spare tire well. I did not like this for several reasons.
1. the tire on the roof was hard to get to, exposed to to UV rays (harmful to rubber).
2. The system did not charge while I drove around in the shaded areas. So, but night 2 the battery was dead.
3. It was a mess of wires and "stuff" in the back that just looked bad.
4. I did not want all the weight on the roof, and the solar panel is prone to break.

So, my solution was to move the battery up to the front under the hood. I made a new rack out of aluminum angle and bolted it into the front of the engine compartment.
I ordered a fuse panel, large relay, some small relays, and a switch panel. I also ordered some 9 conductor cable.
In the engine bay I installed the fuse panel, large relay and small relays. The large relay is controlled by a switch in the overhead console. I can turn it on and the relay will power and send power to the second battery to charge it while driving. This will keep it topped off all the time. The blue tape is just there to remind me of the wire colors, it will be gone soon. I am still in the finishing stages here, so there are wires to clean up and a few other things to finish, but it all works.
The small relays power the the front light bar, and will power other things in the future.
I also ran a large wire to the back and installed the Inverter for my wife's CPAP and anything else we need.
Up front I installed a new CB radio for communication on the trail. A GMRS will soon follow. I do have a handheld Ham, but still need to get the licence.
I also added this really nice vintage First Aid box. Don't worry, the contents are new and I will still add some more to it.

Very nice, you have your act together. You have two batteries right ?

 

[oldmopars]

Very nice, you have your act together. You have two batteries right ?

Yep, 2 batteries under the hood.

 

[cevans2021]

Loving it so far. I might have to steal an idea or two for my Suburban, haha.

 

[oldmopars]

Loving it so far. I might have to steal an idea or two for my Suburban, haha.

Feel free, I am sure my ideas were stolen from somewhere anyway.

 

[Hoss2500]

this is my rack I got for free off another rig. I am going to be cutting and welding some new bracket along with extending it the full length of the roof. That is my next project. Just working on the best way to mount the brackets and what to make.

 

[oldmopars]

View attachment 144849View attachment 144850
this is my rack I got for free off another rig. I am going to be cutting and welding some new bracket along with extending it the full length of the roof. That is my next project. Just working on the best way to mount the brackets and what to make.View attachment 144848View attachment 144851

Looks like a really nice sturdy rack. I would love to find something like that, but I have already started on my own rack and have too much invested.

When you make mounts for it, be sure to check under the headliner. There are cross ribs, you will want to use those and mount over them, or very close to them. If you don't, the rack will bounce and cause dents at the mount points when you load it. That rack is already very heavy, your mounting system will need to be well though out.

I am focusing on packing as little as possible and packing everything I can inside the truck low under the bed. I plan to use the roof rack for my High Lift Jack, shovel, axe, and traction boards. I may put a box up there for recovery gear, but will try to keep it light.

 

[Hoss2500]

When I start, I'm going to be removing my headliner and fixing the mount points directly to the ribs and then seal them up real good and then fasten the rack to the permanent mouts. then rhyno line the roof complete for additional protection. that's what I'm thinking now anyways.
These things are a blast man. I like that we have something different. Alot harder and we have to be more creative but we will have something unique as well.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

View attachment 144849View attachment 144850
this is my rack I got for free off another rig. I am going to be cutting and welding some new bracket along with extending it the full length of the roof. That is my next project. Just working on the best way to mount the brackets and what to make.View attachment 144848View attachment 144851

Good pick. Do you have roof gutters or is it like the picture shown. Mine is very similar (made in Africa for safari's) except for mounting. I have gutters to mount too, and is full length.

 

[Hoss2500]

Good pick. Do you have roof gutters or is it like the picture shown. Mine is very similar (made in Africa for safari's) except for mounting. I have gutters to mount too, and is full length.

No gutters .... that is why I was reaching out seeing what others have done. My basic mechanical mentality will be to remove headliner and make brackets off or roof reinforcement beams that stick out of roof ,seal them, then bolt rack to those brackets for maximum strength. Don't care if its the prettiest just the most easiest functional way I can.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

No gutters .... that is why I was reaching out seeing what others have done. My basic mechanical mentality will be to remove headliner and make brackets off or roof reinforcement beams that stick out of roof ,seal them, then bolt rack to those brackets for maximum strength. Don't care if its the prettiest just the most easiest functional way I can.

If it dosent have factor rails I'm sure it will be difficult if you have to remove the headliner. I'm not that brave. I'm surprised there hasnt been a lot more suggestions for your questions. I'm sure someone has done it before.

 

[M Rose]

No gutters .... that is why I was reaching out seeing what others have done. My basic mechanical mentality will be to remove headliner and make brackets off or roof reinforcement beams that stick out of roof ,seal them, then bolt rack to those brackets for maximum strength. Don't care if its the prettiest just the most easiest functional way I can.

Go to the junk yard and purchase factory roof rack rails for the base of your mount system. They can be had for under $50 for a pair with cross bars... then sell the cross bars for what you paid for the whole system on CL. After that, it gives you a clear slate to use production type mounts, or choppy production mounts.

 

[oldmopars]

Go to the junk yard and purchase factory roof rack rails for the base of your mount system. They can be had for under $50 for a pair with cross bars... then sell the cross bars for what you paid for the whole system on CL. After that, it gives you a clear slate to use production type mounts, or choppy production mounts.

That would work, but the factory roof racks for a Square body Suburban are rare at best. Finding one in a junk yard for a 30+ year old Chevy will be an extreme find. Then the factory roof racks are weak, they were never designed to hold the kind of weight he wants to put on there. From his picture, he already has the factory rack anyway.
I have done what he is asking to do. And as I have suggested it is going to require pulling down the headliner and finding the factory ribs. These go side to side and provide support for the roof. This is where the structure is that he will need to tie into.
I have been down this road and there is no easy off the shelf answer to a roof rack for a vintage Suburban. However this is part of the fun for me. With enough money anyone can build a Jeep or a 4Runner, just keep throwing money at it, but you have to get creative to build a vintage full size rig.

 

[oldmopars]

If it dosent have factor rails I'm sure it will be difficult if you have to remove the headliner. I'm not that brave. I'm surprised there hasn't been a lot more suggestions for your questions. I'm sure someone has done it before.

I also explored the Gutter mount systems. Suburbans have no gutters behind the rear doors. I did find that you can buy gutter mounts though. They are meant for mounting on canopies t allow you to mount things like Yakima kayak racks or pipe racks. I have seen this done on Suburbans and it does kind of work. However, the amount of weight they can support is low. Most are made out of aluminum and can hold about 50lbs. It also means drilling big holes in the sides of the truck.
The headliner is not that hard to remove, I have done it many times.
I have also seem a roof rack that a guy made that used the front drip rails/gutters and then spanned the distance to use the drip rail over the rear doors/tail gate. However this was a full custom rack. He could have his rack modified to incorporate this kind of mount system.
Again, there is no off the shelf solution to these problems when you are working with a 30+ year old rig. Creativity and research are the answer here.

 

[Hoss2500]

thanks for all the thoughts gentlemen. That's why I like this group. Yes, I have the factory roof rack already and the rain gutters. However, rain gutters are just thin pieces of aluminum riveted in and the factory roof rack as oldmopar stated is very weak indeed.
I am a capable welder (x bodyman) Was just asking if anyone has made their own brackets before. I like accumulating knowledge of different ways before I start. Also as oldmopar stated .... "that is part of the fun"

I will keep you guys posted with photos.

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

Go to the junk yard and purchase factory roof rack rails for the base of your mount system. They can be had for under $50 for a pair with cross bars... then sell the cross bars for what you paid for the whole system on CL. After that, it gives you a clear slate to use production type mounts, or choppy production mounts.

That's what I would attempt to do. It's possible there is vehicle just like his in the junk yard that has the parts he needs including the cross bars. Don't ever under estimate the knowledge of the junk yard owners and help. They are more savvy than the dealership personal many times.

 

[M Rose]

I also explored the Gutter mount systems. Suburbans have no gutters behind the rear doors. I did find that you can buy gutter mounts though. They are meant for mounting on canopies t allow you to mount things like Yakima kayak racks or pipe racks. I have seen this done on Suburbans and it does kind of work. However, the amount of weight they can support is low. Most are made out of aluminum and can hold about 50lbs. It also means drilling big holes in the sides of the truck.
The headliner is not that hard to remove, I have done it many times.
I have also seem a roof rack that a guy made that used the front drip rails/gutters and then spanned the distance to use the drip rail over the rear doors/tail gate. However this was a full custom rack. He could have his rack modified to incorporate this kind of mount system.
Again, there is no off the shelf solution to these problems when you are working with a 30+ year old rig. Creativity and research are the answer here.

We have about 60 of those Subs in the yard here... roof racks systems are $25.00 bucks, and I see the cross bars go for the same price on CL... square Body Subs aren’t that rare... 89-90 Broncos are a lot more Rare. Sure parts from 87-95 fit, but aren’t correct

 

[Lanlubber In Remembrance]

I also explored the Gutter mount systems. Suburbans have no gutters behind the rear doors. I did find that you can buy gutter mounts though. They are meant for mounting on canopies t allow you to mount things like Yakima kayak racks or pipe racks. I have seen this done on Suburbans and it does kind of work. However, the amount of weight they can support is low. Most are made out of aluminum and can hold about 50lbs. It also means drilling big holes in the sides of the truck.
The headliner is not that hard to remove, I have done it many times.
I have also seem a roof rack that a guy made that used the front drip rails/gutters and then spanned the distance to use the drip rail over the rear doors/tail gate. However this was a full custom rack. He could have his rack modified to incorporate this kind of mount system.
Again, there is no off the shelf solution to these problems when you are working with a 30+ year old rig. Creativity and research are the answer here.

That's the kind of advise our people are great at giving. He said the looks was not that important so your suggestions might just be his answer. Thanks for your input, learning is what we can all do from this forum.

 

[Hoss2500]

We have about 60 of those Subs in the yard here... roof racks systems are $25.00 bucks, and I see the cross bars go for the same price on CL... square Body Subs aren’t that rare... 89-90 Broncos are a lot more Rare. Sure parts from 87-95 fit, but aren’t correct

I would say in your neck of the woods no..... southern california pretty rare. But as far as the roof rack systems. Is there another factory roof rack system other than the rickety aluminum one that you know of?