1975 K5 -- someone talk me off the ledge!

[Malibu38368]

I just stumbled across a guy selling a 1975 K5, convertible with top and rear seat, intact but not running (not sure why, but there's no fuel pump at the moment). Asking price is... cheap. Like, substantially less than five figures. Now is not really the right time in my life to drop cash on another vehicle but, this checks a lot of boxes for me. No emissions, no computers, factory 4x4, intact accessories. Downsides are an automatic transmission, questionable fuel system (current owner doesn't know why there is no fuel pump, and doesn't know enough to check out the fuel system, but confirms that the engine itself runs if you feed it by hand), and some areas of rust (haven't had a chance to look at it in person yet, so I don't know if it's limited to external panels, or if it extends to the wheel wells or floor pan).

Am I an idiot for actually considering this?

 

[zgfiredude]

No, you are not. I had a '72 K5 and LOVED it. That '75 is super simple, but you'll want to carefully inspect for rust on the body and frame, and then figure out that fueling issue. It might be good to consider the cost of a new/rust free tank, replacement lines, and a new fuel pump of course. Down the line, adding a throttle body fuel injection system would make it so much smoother and better. It's all going to depend on the condition of the frame and shell......what are the things that you can't fix? Make sure you are happy with it at that level, and the rest is just a project!

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Well, I'M sure not gonna be the one to talk you off the ledge of buying a Sheriff Brody-era Chevy Blazer. When the devil on one shoulder, and the angel on the other both say "Do it!", then do it. When they disagree, it's still a 50-50 shot.

Sounds cool

 

[F150RCSB]

Do it, if the body & frame are in good shape. I love a square body, currently have a 1976 K10. It will be under $100 to replace the fuel pump & lines to the carb if you had to, & a new Quadrajet can be had for under $300. Or convert to EFi for around $1000. If there's a problem with the fuel tank you're probaly looking at under $200 to replace that also.

 

[Malibu38368]

No, you are not. I had a '72 K5 and LOVED it. That '75 is super simple, but you'll want to carefully inspect for rust on the body and frame, and then figure out that fueling issue. It might be good to consider the cost of a new/rust free tank, replacement lines, and a new fuel pump of course. Down the line, adding a throttle body fuel injection system would make it so much smoother and better. It's all going to depend on the condition of the frame and shell......what are the things that you can't fix? Make sure you are happy with it at that level, and the rest is just a project!

Yeah, I miss my Malibu already, and really want a project truck. The nice thing about a rough one like this is that I can actually use it like a truck without having to worry about a $10k paint job, you know? As for my limitations, I actually have zero bodywork experience, but am willing to learn. Won't take it on if the floor pan, wheel wells, or frame have significant rust. Will consider other panels, though. I don't have a lot of tools or equipment, but have learned that I'm actually pretty competent with a toolbox, and can probably do a good enough job of most of the (non-machining) work that it might need.

I just... really need a truck, and really want a project.

 

[Coreymol]

I just stumbled across a guy selling a 1975 K5, convertible with top and rear seat, intact but not running (not sure why, but there's no fuel pump at the moment). Asking price is... cheap. Like, substantially less than five figures. Now is not really the right time in my life to drop cash on another vehicle but, this checks a lot of boxes for me. No emissions, no computers, factory 4x4, intact accessories. Downsides are an automatic transmission, questionable fuel system (current owner doesn't know why there is no fuel pump, and doesn't know enough to check out the fuel system, but confirms that the engine itself runs if you feed it by hand), and some areas of rust (haven't had a chance to look at it in person yet, so I don't know if it's limited to external panels, or if it extends to the wheel wells or floor pan).

Am I an idiot for actually considering this?

JUMP! JUMP! JUMP!

 

[tjZ06]

'75... so no smog right? Be very, very sure it's really a '75 by VIN cuz that would change everything for you being in CA. Other than that, I say do it - but I'm kind of an idiot. I love K5s, and had many friends that had them growing up so I have a soft spot for them and lots of great memories wheeling and cruising them. That said, compared to a modern vehicle they do everything poorly stock. They are slow, they ride like an ox-cart, they have little in the way of features/comfort, they are loud (and I'm not just talking exhaust here), and they don't stop for chit. All of that is part of their charm to people like me... but not for everyone. If you've never driven a rig like that I highly recommend finding one to at least get a ride in before you decide anything. Also, rust will be your biggest enemy. The good thing is companies make reproduction, well, just about EVERYTHING for those rigs. But body work gets expensive, and is a skill few of us have so doing it yourself may not be an option.

One question I have would be how far are you going to go with it? You could make it nice and reliable with a LS-swap, and that's where the no smog thing is super handy. There are lots of options to make it a manual as well, but the options that will give you overdrive are less common/cheap. As for the fuel pump, it probably just has a bad mechanical fuel pump and the owner is familiar with the concept of a mechanical fuel pump. It should be down low at the front-passenger side of the block and look like this:



-TJ

 

[Malibu38368]

'75... so no smog right? Be very, very sure it's really a '75 by VIN cuz that would change everything for you being in CA. Other than that, I say do it - but I'm kind of an idiot. I love K5s, and had many friends that had them growing up so I have a soft spot for them and lots of great memories wheeling and cruising them. That said, compared to a modern vehicle they do everything poorly stock. They are slow, they ride like an ox-cart, they have little in the way of features/comfort, they are loud (and I'm not just talking exhaust here), and they don't stop for chit. All of that is part of their charm to people like me... but not for everyone. If you've never driven a rig like that I highly recommend finding one to at least get a ride in before you decide anything. Also, rust will be your biggest enemy. The good thing is companies make reproduction, well, just about EVERYTHING for those rigs. But body work gets expensive, and is a skill few of us have so doing it yourself may not be an option.

One question I have would be how far are you going to go with it? You could make it nice and reliable with a LS-swap, and that's where the no smog thing is super handy. There are lots of options to make it a manual as well, but the options that will give you overdrive are less common/cheap. As for the fuel pump, it probably just has a bad mechanical fuel pump and the owner is familiar with the concept of a mechanical fuel pump. It should be down low at the front-passenger side of the block and look like this:

-TJ

Yup, '75 and no smog. Seller was kind enough to snap a pic of the VIN plate, and it's a '5'. I assume that means '75, and not '85.

I'm an idiot, too. I'm currently without a classic car, but I used to have a 1968 Malibu (s'where my username comes from) that started out life as a 327 backed by a Powerglide. Sold it a couple months back as a 383 with a TKO-3550. Wish I could say that I did all the work (I didn't), but I fixed it enough to have a pretty good idea as to how to make a non-computer-controlled, carbureted engine work. As far as old vehicles, I grew up riding around in a 1984 Silverado, and my first vehicle was a 1977 Ford Ranger F250 Camper Special, powered by a 460 and riding on too-soft and shot-to-hell shocks, and sagging, worn-out springs. So I guess I know a couple of things about driving tanks :)

Anyway, what I'd genuinely like to do is build out a fairly mild carbureted 350 as either a 377 or 383 with a nice, flat torque curve. Convert it to to a manual (which I probably can't handle alone), and swap in an NP205. Maybe beef the axles and add some compound gearing, because... well, something should be excessive, right? I don't have any experience with body work. But when I was in middle school, my neighbor, who also had no experience with body work, restored a 1936 Cord in his garage, by hand, including body work. If he could so that, I trust that I can figure this out, right?

But for the time being, I'd be happy with a running 400 backed by an automatic that I can load crap into at the local Home Depot.

 

[DevilDodge]

I am not a Chevy fan. But my next purchase will be a Ramcharger or Trailduster to outfit like this.

If Chevy is your brand...go for it

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Among the several other rules and laws, I think it was actually the '75 model year that mandated the catalytic converter and tightened previous years regulations.

The current rules of the state the OP is in may have an antiques or older vehicles clause, but a 1975 would probably come with a number of smog controls.

 

[tjZ06]

Among the several other rules and laws, I think it was actually the '75 model year that mandated the catalytic converter and tightened previous years regulations.

The current rules of the state the OP is in may have an antiques or older vehicles clause, but a 1975 would probably come with a number of smog controls.

Yes and no. There are some requirements on a '75 in CA... BUT there is no smog check on '75 and older to verify any of it so it's sort of a free-for-all on a '75.

-TJ

 

[tjZ06]

Yup, '75 and no smog. Seller was kind enough to snap a pic of the VIN plate, and it's a '5'. I assume that means '75, and not '85.

I'm an idiot, too. I'm currently without a classic car, but I used to have a 1968 Malibu (s'where my username comes from) that started out life as a 327 backed by a Powerglide. Sold it a couple months back as a 383 with a TKO-3550. Wish I could say that I did all the work (I didn't), but I fixed it enough to have a pretty good idea as to how to make a non-computer-controlled, carbureted engine work. As far as old vehicles, I grew up riding around in a 1984 Silverado, and my first vehicle was a 1977 Ford Ranger F250 Camper Special, powered by a 460 and riding on too-soft and shot-to-hell shocks, and sagging, worn-out springs. So I guess I know a couple of things about driving tanks :)

Anyway, what I'd genuinely like to do is build out a fairly mild carbureted 350 as either a 377 or 383 with a nice, flat torque curve. Convert it to to a manual (which I probably can't handle alone), and swap in an NP205. Maybe beef the axles and add some compound gearing, because... well, something should be excessive, right? I don't have any experience with body work. But when I was in middle school, my neighbor, who also had no experience with body work, restored a 1936 Cord in his garage, by hand, including body work. If he could so that, I trust that I can figure this out, right?

But for the time being, I'd be happy with a running 400 backed by an automatic that I can load crap into at the local Home Depot.

Gotcha... it sounds like it could be the "right" project for you if it's not a total rust-bucket. I suspect you could handle the manual conversion if you're just going with something like a SM465 that could have been optioned originally in it. I helped a buddy do that swap on a '72... it was pretty straight forward. Getting all the right clutch parts and linkage is really the key... but IIRC it's all readily available. 205 would be a great swap, and also pretty "bolt in." As for the body work, I'm no expert so I probably shouldn't speak on it... but I will anyway. ;) :p If you're not looking for concourse results, I bet you can handle it all. In my (very limited) experience it really comes down to lots and lots of time in prep work. Cut any corners in prep work, and you'll regret it deeply later. Of course, if we're talking more like full panel replacements, new floors etc. then it's a lot of welding on thin metal that I bet will take a LOT of practice to get right.

-TJ

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Yes and no. There are some requirements on a '75 in CA... BUT there is no smog check on '75 and older to verify any of it so it's sort of a free-for-all on a '75.

-TJ

Nice!

Always wanted one of these. Had two full size from the 1990's and loved them. Wish I still had them

 

[tjZ06]

View attachment 223329

I am not a Chevy fan. But my next purchase will be a Ramcharger or Trailduster to outfit like this.

If Chevy is your brand...go for it

I am a "Chevy fan" but gawd I still love those Ramcharger/Traildusters (I want a Trailduster, just to be a bit more Mopar-weirdo :p ) and as a FWC owner those ones with the FWC grafted on are the ultimate in cool! I'd love to build one "someday."

-TJ

 

[Malibu38368]

Among the several other rules and laws, I think it was actually the '75 model year that mandated the catalytic converter and tightened previous years regulations.

The current rules of the state the OP is in may have an antiques or older vehicles clause, but a 1975 would probably come with a number of smog controls.

Yeah, I'm in California. Based on some stuff that I've read and seen from other states, this isn't a universal rule (surprisingly, since CARB requirements dictate vehicle emissions controls in the US), but model year '75 and earlier cars are exempt from smog testing here. I haven't seen this truck in person yet, but from the photos, it looks to have a fair number of emissions concessions. Not surprising, as that started around 1970.

But what matters to me, is that I can pull everything out, and replace it with anything I bloody well please, without needing to worry about appeasing CARB. As long as I have that, I'm happy to deal with '70s-era emissions stuff for now.

 

[Malibu38368]

Nice!

Always wanted one of these. Had two full size from the 1990's and loved them. Wish I still had them

Not a fullsize, but I learned to drive on a 1990 S10 Blazer, a manual-backed 4.3L V8. I hated being forced to learn to drive a stick--I still remember complaining that, by the time I could afford my own car, they would all be automatics anyway. Now, it's like a damned badge of honor.

Blazers will always have a place in my heart, whether a K5 or S10 or... whatever they're calling "Blazers" now.

 

[Malibu38368]

Gotcha... it sounds like it could be the "right" project for you if it's not a total rust-bucket. I suspect you could handle the manual conversion if you're just going with something like a SM465 that could have been optioned originally in it. I helped a buddy do that swap on a '72... it was pretty straight forward. Getting all the right clutch parts and linkage is really the key... but IIRC it's all readily available. 205 would be a great swap, and also pretty "bolt in." As for the body work, I'm no expert so I probably shouldn't speak on it... but I will anyway. ;) :p If you're not looking for concourse results, I bet you can handle it all. In my (very limited) experience it really comes down to lots and lots of time in prep work. Cut any corners in prep work, and you'll regret it deeply later. Of course, if we're talking more like full panel replacements, new floors etc. then it's a lot of welding on thin metal that I bet will take a LOT of practice to get right.

-TJ

An SM465 is exactly what I would do. I know that there is absolutely no rational reason to do this, but I would love to get the lowest possible gearing that I can, and, well, the SM465 has a pretty damn low first gear.

Couldn't care less about a Concours-quality truck. I've already bashed a trailer hitch into the rear hatch on my 2007 Tahoe, and somehow dented the top of the front bumper, to say nothing about door dings and the like. And before that, it's possible that the rear passenger quarterpanel on my 2001 was assaulted by one of those concrete parking posts...

I want, and need, a truck that can do, you know, truck stuff. I also need at least four seats and room for a couple dogs, which makes a (much more affordable) pickup less of an ideal option. Appreciate the tip on bodywork. I know that should go without saying, but it's nice to hear that the detail is in the prep, and not necessarily the actual doing.

 

[rho]

I am a "Chevy fan" but gawd I still love those Ramcharger/Traildusters (I want a Trailduster, just to be a bit more Mopar-weirdo :p ) and as a FWC owner those ones with the FWC grafted on are the ultimate in cool! I'd love to build one "someday."

-TJ

I keep seeing ramchargers pop up around the Bay Area... and its REALLY tempting to pick one up.

 

[tjZ06]

I keep seeing ramchargers pop up around the Bay Area... and its REALLY tempting to pick one up.

Do-it-do-it!

-TJ

 

[ThundahBeagle]

I had a friend who had a Ram Charger in the early 1990's. Kan we had a lot of fun with that in our early 20's.

He also has a Chevy S-10 pickup. Crank windows, manual transmission. We want all over the local map with those.

Those 1990's full size Blazers I had took a page out of the Ram Charger book. They were full size Blazers but the tops was solid and not removable. I liked that because they had roof racks...

But I digress. I will NOT be talking you off this ledge sir. I may push.