12V Power Box Review (ports/distribution)

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Dave in AZ

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I bought this 12v power box with 11 ports, tested the ports and did a review. This might be a good all in one dc port solution for folks that want to just hook up an inexpensive 12v LiFePO4 lithium battery and run all their dc camper stuff. Plenty of ports for fan, lights, heater, blanket, phones, laptop. With a 100Ah 12V battery, now $170, you could have a complete dc power solution for $260.

This is a 12v power distribution box, that you can use to supply 12V DC from a power station or battery, to 11 different ports. These include 3 car ports, 4 USB-A, a QC3 USB, and a USB-C with PD 18W/35W, and 3 big 50A Anderson PowerPole connectors for In/Out both.

Sometimes, these ports don't actually supply watts as described, and there are many versions of this sold by different vendors. This is an actual hands on review with port testing, so you know this one has been checked by someone not on payroll! It was hard for me to pick one on Amazon, lot of review reading, so did this review for folks to have a good data point on one at least!

 

Dave in AZ

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Arizona, USA
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Dave
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Mac
Supply Watts?
No idea what your 2 word question means. Since I said supply watts above, I'll reiterate that. Many times ports you purchase do not actually supply the watts they are rated for. Due to small internal wires, weak connections, whatever. Car cigarette ports especially, they are a 12-14V device supposed to provide 10A, so 120 to 140W depending on your voltage. However, upon testing at 12.8 volts, standard LA battery levels, many I have tested only will flow 80 to 90W, despite being hooked to a power supply or battery that could easily give more. This causes a lot of issues with diesel heaters, which need 120 to 140W at startup to power glowplug, people use a weak car port and get error messages. Thus, testing the ports on this thing to actually flow the specs for Watts and Amps to make sure it isn't a P.O.S.
 

grubworm

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very nice review.
i just built a power box using a rolling tote and a 280ah LiPo battery. i included everything your box has plus i have a monitor using a shunt so i have very accurate battery status. it was a lot of tedious work and a lot of cutting and drilling to install all the ports as bulkhead connectors. i really like the power box you reviewed and it is absolutely perfect for aux power. if power goes out during a storm, all you have to do is have an anderson connector connected to a battery and just plug in the power box and start running 12v coolers, lights, fans, etc. quick and easy and a very small footprint.

i wired my box with 6 awg wire to handle a 3000w inverter...looks like your power box can use the anderson connector to connect to a decent size inverter, so that is another plus it has. even though i already have a power box, i would certainly keep this one in mind should i want another one for emergency use

appreciate your time put into this...you were very thorough
 

Flipper

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No idea what your 2 word question means. Since I said supply watts above, I'll reiterate that. Many times ports you purchase do not actually supply the watts they are rated for. Due to small internal wires, weak connections, whatever. Car cigarette ports especially, they are a 12-14V device supposed to provide 10A, so 120 to 140W depending on your voltage. However, upon testing at 12.8 volts, standard LA battery levels, many I have tested only will flow 80 to 90W, despite being hooked to a power supply or battery that could easily give more. This causes a lot of issues with diesel heaters, which need 120 to 140W at startup to power glowplug, people use a weak car port and get error messages. Thus, testing the ports on this thing to actually flow the specs for Watts and Amps to make sure it isn't a P.O.S.
Incorrect terminology, watts are not supplied.