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UPDATE I installed a Nature's Head composting toilet. I opted for one of the narrower agitator handle options, so the toilet is 19 inches wide. I left myself a 20 inch wide space to install it... that is not wide enough. I didn't want to start hacking into my new, expensive toilet, but I had to...

UPDATE CONTINUED I decided to continue using our 2 burner camp stove. It's a bit tattered but the burners still work fine, so I replaced the rusted apart hinges with some random ones I had around the shop and cleaned it up real good. I didn't want to use space in my drawers to stow the...

UPDATE I got some work done on the interior of the camper. The area at the front of the camper, underneath the foot of the bed is the primary interior storage area. I built drawers to utilize this space. The drawer sides are made of 3/8 inch plywood leftover from the countertops/cabover. The...

UPDATE I got the water system installed. It consists of a 20 gallon water tank, a 12v water pump, a water purification filter, an indoor faucet and an outdoor shower. I started by removing the storage boxes I had built behind the driver's seat and re purposing the steel framing to build a...

UPDATE I built a fridge slide. I used a pair of 250 pound capacity drawer slides, a couple spring loaded gate latches, and some scrap steel to put it together. It's pretty basic, but it works nicely and fits the space perfectly. I cut the cigaret-plug off the power cord on the fridge and...

Thanks. It has been a fun project, but I m definitely looking forward to wrapping up the basic systems and putting her to use.

UPDATE I have installed the solar panels and the electrical system. I used 4 x 100W flexible solar panels wired in parallel. The panels are mounted to the roof with Sikaflex 252. The wires are held in place with cable tie anchors sikaflexed to the roof. The only hole I had to put in the roof...

UPDATE I built a rear bumper out of some scrap steel. The Bumper is 1.5x6 inch C-channel and I welded on some 1x2 rectangular tubing to make mounts that bolt onto the stock bumper mounting points. I notched the ends and bent the face of the C-channel around the notches to create a curve...

Thanks. I haven't been able to weigh it, but adding up the various material weights, I'm guessing around 1200 pounds.

The bottom of the camper and the floor inside the storage compartments got 2 coats of Hurculiner Bedliner with an extra 2 coats in the wheel wells. And I added a brown stripe for fun. Back to the doors. The storage door on the passenger side and the entry door are mounted on aluminum piano...

UPDATE CONTINUED The entry door was given an aluminum trim on the non-hinge edges in the form of T-section with countersunk mounting holes about every 6.5 inches. This trim was attached with #6 flat head screws and adhesive sealant. The large storage area door on the driver side was hung...

UPDATE I built doors for the camper using the same process as I used for the insulated panels in the camper body. (5mm plywood and Douglas fir frame filled with polyurethane pour foam) but I wanted to have a wood edge all the way around instead of leaving one edge as exposed foam, so I cut one...

UPDATE I used 5 drawer slides mounted in-between the inner and outer pop-up walls to help guide the roof/outer walls as they are lifted or lowered. The slides weren't thick enough to fill the 5/8" gap between the inner and outer walls, so I used a piece of 1.5"x 1/16" aluminum flat bar as a...

UPDATE This update is progress on the pop-up! I started by building each of the pop-up wall panels. 4 of the 6 walls are just basic insulated panels like you've seen me make throughout this build with 1x2 wood frames, 5mm plywood skins, polyurethane foam core, and glassed with 6oz fiberglass...

UPDATE The permanent structure of the camper is done! If you remember from my last update, I am basically just building the camper from the bottom up, so the next step was to build this big sheet of 3/8ths inch plywood that was to be my countertops and the bottom of my cabover. I put it...

UPDATE The passenger side wall was also built with the same process and designed around the wheel well. The rest of the walls will separate the internal space of the camper into different storage areas. These are made of a single sheet of 5mm plywood and minimal 1x2 framing with no...

I haven't used a Delta 2 but I've lived off a DIY dual battery system and I've tried out a solar generator (bluetti ac200p) My take away was that a solar generator won't "replace" a purpose built dual battery system. The Dual battery system will consist of components that you hand selected to...

UPDATE I've got all of my lower walls done! I started with the forward wall, the one right behind the cab. It is a 1x2 Douglas fir frame skinned in 5mm plywood and filled with 2# pour foam. The excess foam was cut off and the forward edges were routed to give them a 1" radius curve. I...

UPDATE CONTINUED The bottom side was a similar process but with the added difficulty of working around the mounting hardware. I really took my time filling in any gap around the mounts and letting the resin soak into the wood and filling it in again before moving onto the fiberglass. The...

UPDATE I've completed the camper floor! It is a composite panel consisting of a wood frame skinned with plywood filled with polyurethane pour foam and coated in fiberglass and epoxy resin. The plywood skin is 15/32" 5ply underlayment. It's a bit heavy, but I wanted to make sure the floor was...