Any of you set up solar power or a wind turbine on your overland rigs?
Just curious. I'm looking into doing this on one of my rigs.
Just curious. I'm looking into doing this on one of my rigs.
On trail/camp Solar power?
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Steward I
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Ive been looking into Solar power but do you have a link to some turbine stuff? Haven't seen any of that
Trail Blazer III
Wind turbine would be very interesting. Here in Michigan the solar options don't work the best, I get really low wattage compared to what my panels are capable of. I still have my solar system however it's a back up.
I have found some mountaintop campsites that would light up a city if I had a wind turbine charger. lol
I just added a acopower folding solar setup to my rigs dual battery system. I’ve only used it in the driveway so far but it seems to pump out plenty of power for the fridge. I will report more when I get to really use it. I’m pretty impressed so far with everything.
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Creator III
Looking at building solar power systems for a couple of rigs, but have just started to wonder about wind power.
Here in the UK and Northern Europe, there's more wind than sun that's for sure.
Here in the UK and Northern Europe, there's more wind than sun that's for sure.
Just got a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 over the weekend so I'll be putting it to the test to see what it is capable of.
I think the biggest challenge is to get the idea number of hours of sunlight. I'd really think one of the roof accessories manufacturers ( like RTT manufacturers ) would have integrated solar cells into the cover with a simple output. That would really put accessories that remain unused for most of the time while driving charge up those batteries. (Following this thread for ideas)
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Advocate III
Regarding Permanent or Flat Installation of Solar Panels:
In my experience, permanent installation of solar panels on a rig is nowhere near as effective as panels that can be moved about, because of optimum angle and efficiency. I've used a portable 120w folding panel while camping in a variety of places, both open and forested over the last four months and 12,500 miles, and have had great luck. A few images at the bottom of this reply.
It's all I used to charge 100ah of deep cycle Odysseys for up to five weeks straight at a time, which in turn provided all my power needs; some LED trailer lights, water pump, charged multiple mobile devices, power packs, multiple battery chargers (for AA, AAA, and camera batts), misc USB stuff, and my power-hungry 48v ebike battery. Sounds like a lot, but I was surprised how little 110 power I actually needed and how easy it is to live on primarily 12v alone.
So, no shore power, no other power in camp or from my van to charge the deep cycles for over a month at a time, just the 120w folding solar panel. Could easily go longer depending on only the solar panels, without shore power or my van charging the deep cycles; I just wanted to get moving again.
If my panel was stationary on my rig, it would be nowhere near as efficient. I can move my 120w folding panel anywhere within about a 45' radius of my trailer and the deep cycles. I use a #10 gauge cable to minimize transmission loss and made up my own cable with Andersen plug ends. Then you want a fairly decent charge controller, too, to regulate the amps generated and manage how it's distributed to your deep cycle(s).
Having your panel on your rig permanently means you'll be parking in the sun more often than you might want to get sun on the panels, and may need to move your rig more often than you'd like to keep them in the sun. Having panels you can move lets you park your rig in the shade and leave it that way.
When you have clear sky and no obstruction, it's far simpler to track the sun and aim your panels throughout the day and you won't have to move them around as much, but aiming with proper angle and direction will dramatically increase efficiency. When you have a canopy of branches and leaves overhead--like I had in the Smoky Mountains for five weeks--you'll find much greater efficiency if you can move the panels periodically to be in the sun wherever it peeks through the canopy and aimed just ahead of where the sun will be. Newer panel technology allows better panels to still harvest power even if part of the panel is shaded or of the sky is overcast. Older and less-efficient panels often lose efficiency or don't draw any power at all if even one cell of the panel is shaded or if the sky is even mildly overcast.
I devised a tiny sundial of sorts with my mini-Streamlight flashlight, where I'd simply hold it on the face of my panel, sticking straight out, then aim the panel so the Streamlight cast no shadow. Then I knew the panel was aimed as directly at the sun as could be and was working to its maximum efficiency. You can actually see the amps increase on your charge controller. They make commercial sundials for aiming solar panels, but I just used my mini-Streamlight, as it is always in my pocket.
You're dealing mostly with two angles when aiming your panels; relative to the ground and side to side as the earth turns. You'll find most movable or folding panels can be set to 45º or less, and that is not always what you need, nor are they always as stable as you might like. I took to using a folding painter's bench behind my folding panel, on which I often set other solar devices. That way, when I aimed my panel, my other devices were also aimed. I could stand my panel almost straight up for early morning sun and adjust it anywhere to as low as I wanted for overhead noontime sun.
I learned pretty quickly to aim the panel just ahead, to the middle of where the sun would be over the next hour, or however long I wanted before re-aiming the panel. IF you have time to do that in camp--and I did because I was fascinated at tracking the sun and learning how to best use the panels--then you'll be using it to it's best ability. If you know you're going to be gone for a few hours or longer, aim it to the middle of where you know the sun will be be over the time you're gone.
When your panel is not aimed as directly towards the sun as can be, as is the case when its laying flat on the top of a rig or simply at a 45 all day, it's only working to its best ability for an hour or so each day. You can rig up actuators so your panel tracks the sun throughout the day, but that's typically more for off-grid ground installation, not mobile camp use. I'm looking into it, though, for night photography as well. There are tripod heads available (as well as some really clever DIY solutions) that raise and lower in time to the earth's rotation.
I'm working on a design so I can have a couple larger, more powerful, panels that are meant to be stationary, but store them in tracks under my raised platform on the trailer (like a Frontrunner table) so I can slide 'em out and tilt them on two axis (both down and side to side) on the rack, or take 'em all the way off and move them around camp.
Just my way of thinking and doing things, but I don't find it very useful to spend that many pesos to buy a good panel and make it permanently stationary when you can get far more bang for your buck in generating your own power if you are willing to move your panels.
WIND POWER - I think you'll find that it is tremendously fun to play and experiment with, but not worth the trouble in the long run for the little power it will actually generate in a mobile environment. Most people who have tried small wind turbines for off-grid cabin living have found the same and eventually abandon the idea in favor of increasing their solar power input. That said, I think it would be wicked good fun to set up a wind-turbine like the front of a jet engine to try and harness power while interstate driving.
If someone ever figured a way to put one in your front grill and channel air through to the back while turning a series of blades hooked to an alternator to charge deep cycles. . .
Good luck with figuring out the best way to generate power for your rig and your needs!
Dry roads and open skies,
Road
Misty morning at Overland Expo East 2017, still pulling in power:
Late afternoon in the Smoky Mountains, leaning against a folding painter's bench, with my Ready Lights behind:
Aimed at the horizon and ready for morning sun, almost vertical:
Road
.
roaddude.com
In my experience, permanent installation of solar panels on a rig is nowhere near as effective as panels that can be moved about, because of optimum angle and efficiency. I've used a portable 120w folding panel while camping in a variety of places, both open and forested over the last four months and 12,500 miles, and have had great luck. A few images at the bottom of this reply.
It's all I used to charge 100ah of deep cycle Odysseys for up to five weeks straight at a time, which in turn provided all my power needs; some LED trailer lights, water pump, charged multiple mobile devices, power packs, multiple battery chargers (for AA, AAA, and camera batts), misc USB stuff, and my power-hungry 48v ebike battery. Sounds like a lot, but I was surprised how little 110 power I actually needed and how easy it is to live on primarily 12v alone.
So, no shore power, no other power in camp or from my van to charge the deep cycles for over a month at a time, just the 120w folding solar panel. Could easily go longer depending on only the solar panels, without shore power or my van charging the deep cycles; I just wanted to get moving again.
If my panel was stationary on my rig, it would be nowhere near as efficient. I can move my 120w folding panel anywhere within about a 45' radius of my trailer and the deep cycles. I use a #10 gauge cable to minimize transmission loss and made up my own cable with Andersen plug ends. Then you want a fairly decent charge controller, too, to regulate the amps generated and manage how it's distributed to your deep cycle(s).
Having your panel on your rig permanently means you'll be parking in the sun more often than you might want to get sun on the panels, and may need to move your rig more often than you'd like to keep them in the sun. Having panels you can move lets you park your rig in the shade and leave it that way.
When you have clear sky and no obstruction, it's far simpler to track the sun and aim your panels throughout the day and you won't have to move them around as much, but aiming with proper angle and direction will dramatically increase efficiency. When you have a canopy of branches and leaves overhead--like I had in the Smoky Mountains for five weeks--you'll find much greater efficiency if you can move the panels periodically to be in the sun wherever it peeks through the canopy and aimed just ahead of where the sun will be. Newer panel technology allows better panels to still harvest power even if part of the panel is shaded or of the sky is overcast. Older and less-efficient panels often lose efficiency or don't draw any power at all if even one cell of the panel is shaded or if the sky is even mildly overcast.
I devised a tiny sundial of sorts with my mini-Streamlight flashlight, where I'd simply hold it on the face of my panel, sticking straight out, then aim the panel so the Streamlight cast no shadow. Then I knew the panel was aimed as directly at the sun as could be and was working to its maximum efficiency. You can actually see the amps increase on your charge controller. They make commercial sundials for aiming solar panels, but I just used my mini-Streamlight, as it is always in my pocket.
You're dealing mostly with two angles when aiming your panels; relative to the ground and side to side as the earth turns. You'll find most movable or folding panels can be set to 45º or less, and that is not always what you need, nor are they always as stable as you might like. I took to using a folding painter's bench behind my folding panel, on which I often set other solar devices. That way, when I aimed my panel, my other devices were also aimed. I could stand my panel almost straight up for early morning sun and adjust it anywhere to as low as I wanted for overhead noontime sun.
I learned pretty quickly to aim the panel just ahead, to the middle of where the sun would be over the next hour, or however long I wanted before re-aiming the panel. IF you have time to do that in camp--and I did because I was fascinated at tracking the sun and learning how to best use the panels--then you'll be using it to it's best ability. If you know you're going to be gone for a few hours or longer, aim it to the middle of where you know the sun will be be over the time you're gone.
When your panel is not aimed as directly towards the sun as can be, as is the case when its laying flat on the top of a rig or simply at a 45 all day, it's only working to its best ability for an hour or so each day. You can rig up actuators so your panel tracks the sun throughout the day, but that's typically more for off-grid ground installation, not mobile camp use. I'm looking into it, though, for night photography as well. There are tripod heads available (as well as some really clever DIY solutions) that raise and lower in time to the earth's rotation.
I'm working on a design so I can have a couple larger, more powerful, panels that are meant to be stationary, but store them in tracks under my raised platform on the trailer (like a Frontrunner table) so I can slide 'em out and tilt them on two axis (both down and side to side) on the rack, or take 'em all the way off and move them around camp.
Just my way of thinking and doing things, but I don't find it very useful to spend that many pesos to buy a good panel and make it permanently stationary when you can get far more bang for your buck in generating your own power if you are willing to move your panels.
WIND POWER - I think you'll find that it is tremendously fun to play and experiment with, but not worth the trouble in the long run for the little power it will actually generate in a mobile environment. Most people who have tried small wind turbines for off-grid cabin living have found the same and eventually abandon the idea in favor of increasing their solar power input. That said, I think it would be wicked good fun to set up a wind-turbine like the front of a jet engine to try and harness power while interstate driving.
If someone ever figured a way to put one in your front grill and channel air through to the back while turning a series of blades hooked to an alternator to charge deep cycles. . .
Good luck with figuring out the best way to generate power for your rig and your needs!
Dry roads and open skies,
Road
Misty morning at Overland Expo East 2017, still pulling in power:
Late afternoon in the Smoky Mountains, leaning against a folding painter's bench, with my Ready Lights behind:
Aimed at the horizon and ready for morning sun, almost vertical:
Road
.
Roaddude - On the Road In North America - ROADDUDE
Roaddude - Traveling Photographer/Writer/Artist On the Road In North America. Gear, reviews, people, places, and culture.
roaddude.com
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I like the "thinking outside the box" with wind generation but some form of gear reduction would be required as vehicle speeds thus wind speed got over 30 mph. Many wind generators aren't engineered when wind speed get up to those levels.
I did see a camper with a rotating, telescoping mast fixed to the camper that would take a 400 watt wind generator up about 30 feet. I thought this was really genius idea and as we are planning on getting an off road trailer, I'm noodling around the same idea. We like to winter camp as since we have good prevailing winter winds, it might work. Again, I say might.
BTW Road, loved you post. Good details, good thought provoking. Keep em coming Brother.
I did see a camper with a rotating, telescoping mast fixed to the camper that would take a 400 watt wind generator up about 30 feet. I thought this was really genius idea and as we are planning on getting an off road trailer, I'm noodling around the same idea. We like to winter camp as since we have good prevailing winter winds, it might work. Again, I say might.
BTW Road, loved you post. Good details, good thought provoking. Keep em coming Brother.
Advocate III
Thanks @Keith McAlister - I tend to write long, I know, but hopefully with enough good information to make the piece "read-worthy." All sort of fun to do for me, and is sort of in prep for longer articles I'll put on my site someday soon.
Trail Blazer III
Road, awesome post. Weather and geography plays such a part in the solar world. Michigan stinks for relying on solar. I have a system that works for low use weekend stuff but long term would require a significant battery bank especially if I wanted to use my technology (mobile ham, iPad, etc.)
Wind is pretty abundant, I’m going to learn more about this technology this summer. A benefit to wind is that it can grab juice 24 hours a day.....as long as there is wind.
Wind is pretty abundant, I’m going to learn more about this technology this summer. A benefit to wind is that it can grab juice 24 hours a day.....as long as there is wind.
Advocate III
Thanks Cort - I enjoy writing about this sort of thing, if I have solid experience to relay.
I think as solar panel technology keeps improving, and price keeps coming down like it is, solar will become even more and more efficient and easier to use. The 120w panel I have is pretty amazing, really, and a far cry from the technology of even just a few years ago.
My panel can be partly shaded or have a cell completely in shade and still provide amps, unlike older panels that stop providing amps altogether if even one cell is partly shaded. Even on overcast days on which older panels would read zero, my overland solar panel will still provide trickle charge to my deep cells. Often enough to top things off 'til the next sunnier day.
I found my multiple iOS devices (iPad Air, iPad Mini, iPhones old and new, iPod Touch) weren't difficult at all to keep charged. I sometimes would charge my main phone in my vehicle while driving, but generally depended on a 6000mAh TalentCell power bank for everything else. I'd charge that up with the inverter hooked to my deep cycles (which in turn were powered by the solar panel, of course) whenever it needed. It generally lasted for a few days.
My 48v 17.5Ah eBike battery is the real power hog, but I managed to keep it (as well as everything else mentioned) topped off quite nicely, even over weeks on end off-grid, from just the two 50Ah Odyssey batteries (through the 110 inverter and a power adapter, as you can't charge 48v direct with a 12v system) and the 120w folding panel. Took a lot of moving/adjusting the panel around camp every day, to be sure, to optimize angle and efficiency and take advantage of the little bit of clearing in the canopy overhead, but it worked a lot better than I expected. Far more efficiently than if the panel were secured flat on a vehicle or trailer roof.
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Trail Blazer III
That's pretty impressive! My goal zero panels(4 boulder 30s) do "ok" but they output no where near their specs if there is any kind of shade or haze. I'll have to research some of the newer panels. I've also had bad luck with the powerfilm? panels, the ones the military uses.
Advocate III
For those interested, here's more info on some of the newer solar cell technology, Maxeon by Sunpower, which has become more available to manufacturers in smaller more portable panels, not just large commercial fixed panels over 250w.
I've found what they describe in the short vid below--about cells being shaded not affecting the overall output--to be true. As I wrote above, even when under a canopy allowing just dappled light to my 120w folding array, I was surprised at how much the panel would pull in.
Right now my plans are to purchase two 100w straight panels meant for fixed application, but without the charge controller or mounting hardware that usually comes with new kit bundles. Drops the price a bit, and is significantly less that way for two 100w panels than a 180w folding panel, and less even than a 120w folding panel too.
I'll make my own 200w panel I can use as folding, end to end, or two separate (finish size 42x44, or two separate at 21x42) and already have a good charge controller. I'm designing a track to slide them into under the Rhino-rack tray on my trailer when going over the road, but from which I can pull them out when stopped and tilt them on two axis, or remove them altogether to place away from the trailer.
I'll keep my 120w folding panel, as I'm going to end up with redundant battery and charge controller systems in van and trailer. If I leave the trailer as base camp or off-grid housing support, I can leave either set up behind producing power while I take the other with me in the van to charge the house batts (for inverter, ebike, lighting, radios, small battery chargers, etc) if setting for awhile, or to help recharge my diesel starting batts if needed.
Just thinking out loud and daydreaming of what will work best for cross-country and off-grid traveling.
I've found what they describe in the short vid below--about cells being shaded not affecting the overall output--to be true. As I wrote above, even when under a canopy allowing just dappled light to my 120w folding array, I was surprised at how much the panel would pull in.
Right now my plans are to purchase two 100w straight panels meant for fixed application, but without the charge controller or mounting hardware that usually comes with new kit bundles. Drops the price a bit, and is significantly less that way for two 100w panels than a 180w folding panel, and less even than a 120w folding panel too.
I'll make my own 200w panel I can use as folding, end to end, or two separate (finish size 42x44, or two separate at 21x42) and already have a good charge controller. I'm designing a track to slide them into under the Rhino-rack tray on my trailer when going over the road, but from which I can pull them out when stopped and tilt them on two axis, or remove them altogether to place away from the trailer.
I'll keep my 120w folding panel, as I'm going to end up with redundant battery and charge controller systems in van and trailer. If I leave the trailer as base camp or off-grid housing support, I can leave either set up behind producing power while I take the other with me in the van to charge the house batts (for inverter, ebike, lighting, radios, small battery chargers, etc) if setting for awhile, or to help recharge my diesel starting batts if needed.
Just thinking out loud and daydreaming of what will work best for cross-country and off-grid traveling.
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Creator III
I'm looking at the idea of one or two panels mounted on slide out brackets under the front of my roof rack. That way, they can be pulled out (and supported) or completely removed if parked in shade.
I'm thinking 100 or 120w at least to be able to stay on top of a fridge and other (smaller) kit for a at least couple of days. Hopefully, overkill, but I'd rather that, than be disappointed that the panel can't keep up. also need to bear in mind that here in the UK and Northern Europe, sunshine isn't always available, especially in the non-summer months. So panels that go on working well when partly shaded is something I need to consider.
Thanks for sharing @Road
I'm thinking 100 or 120w at least to be able to stay on top of a fridge and other (smaller) kit for a at least couple of days. Hopefully, overkill, but I'd rather that, than be disappointed that the panel can't keep up. also need to bear in mind that here in the UK and Northern Europe, sunshine isn't always available, especially in the non-summer months. So panels that go on working well when partly shaded is something I need to consider.
Thanks for sharing @Road
Member I
when I was building my trailer I wanted 100% off grid. No land line power (shore power) what so ever. I done a year of research I on solar & went Renogy. I like their customer service, which had a positive impact on me choosing their product. I explained what I was doing for my trailer build & what equipment will be used @ certain times of the year & how long (hours during the day) along with giving them all the technical information as of amp. draw. They came up with a fail safe system that will suit me for all 4 seasons. Battery I went with is VMax Tank 125 amp hour AGM with 10 to 12 yr life span, worth every dollar spent IMO. I have (2) Renogy 100 watt portable suite case style Monocrystalline solar panels, this way I can use 1 or 2 panels (only one shown in the photo) ran together when ever I need the extra power. Renogy 30amp Wanderer Charge Controller w\ battery temperature sensor. I have 20ft of 10 awg cable to stretch out & move my panel\panels where ever to follow the sun. I have 30amp fuse in between the panels & the charge controller to protect my system.
I run Engel 22qt 12v. fridg\freez 24hrs on demand, Propex H2000 Heat Source tent heater on demand "seasonal fall, winter, early spring" use, Mighty Kool K2 12v. A\C "seasonal" only at sleeping hrs during summer months, 2 LED filtered green lights on the tent rack & the LED tent light strip. I believe you get what you spend. Solar I feel you need to get the "best" energy efficient system you can afford. This goes for the battery\batteries being used. I do not trust China made solar panels or their components because these systems are NOT energy efficient. You will see how other will favor other manufactures.
I run Engel 22qt 12v. fridg\freez 24hrs on demand, Propex H2000 Heat Source tent heater on demand "seasonal fall, winter, early spring" use, Mighty Kool K2 12v. A\C "seasonal" only at sleeping hrs during summer months, 2 LED filtered green lights on the tent rack & the LED tent light strip. I believe you get what you spend. Solar I feel you need to get the "best" energy efficient system you can afford. This goes for the battery\batteries being used. I do not trust China made solar panels or their components because these systems are NOT energy efficient. You will see how other will favor other manufactures.
you wrote-
I'm working on a design so I can have a couple larger, more powerful, panels that are meant to be stationary, but store them in tracks under my raised platform on the trailer (like a Frontrunner table) so I can slide 'em out and tilt them on two axis (both down and side to side) on the rack, or take 'em all the way off and move them around camp.
I would love to see your design on this set up. Kind of what i was thinking, to be able to slide out and tilt somehow.
I'm working on a design so I can have a couple larger, more powerful, panels that are meant to be stationary, but store them in tracks under my raised platform on the trailer (like a Frontrunner table) so I can slide 'em out and tilt them on two axis (both down and side to side) on the rack, or take 'em all the way off and move them around camp.
I would love to see your design on this set up. Kind of what i was thinking, to be able to slide out and tilt somehow.
Advocate III
Hey @OdinOutdoors - didn't see this 'til now. It helps, when replying to or quoting someone to tag them with their @name so they are notified in Alerts. I think a lot of members turn off the alert for every post to a thread they participated in; I know I have it turned off, or I'd be getting alerts all day long, but do have alerts turned on if someone quotes me or mentions me by @name. You can also hit Reply in the lower right corner and it will include their whole post AND alert them. If you cut out part of their post, just leave the [quote tags at each end.
As for the sliding, tiltable, panel design, I probably won't do much with it 'til summer when I'm out base camping somewhere. I love having projects like that to mess with when I'm camping and outdoors all day. If you think about it, though, like fall asleep thinking about it (always works for me!) you'll come up with a way to do it that will work for your situation.
