High Idle Switch in Gas rig

[Ebbs]

just wondering if anyone has experience or fitted a high idle switch for gas rig for winching. My GX470 has a pretty inemic alternator stock, so going to replace it, but I know a lot of rigs use a high idle switch to help reduce the strain. I can't seem to find much on installing these on gas motors, especially on the GX(lol go figure).
Am I missing something and it's not needed? or is it too difficult with a throtle by wire?
Thanks

 

[smritte]

I saw those with carburetors and early fuel injection. Drive by wire made that go away. There's a JDM kit I can buy for my FJ80. Its a pull knob mounted in the dash with the cable attached to the throttle pedal. Looks easy to build.

Your alternator will put out peak power around 1800 rpm. "If" you plan on a new alternator, look at the 6 phase. I'm running a 250 amp with about 150 amp at 700 rpm and peak about 1200 rpm.

Almost all of the modern alternators are 6 phase. Price shop for them. The aftermarket builders started offering them about 10-15 years ago and got over $1000 for them. I want to say mine was under $300. I would link it but, I cant remember who I got it from.

 

[Ebbs]

I saw those with carburetors and early fuel injection. Drive by wire made that go away. There's a JDM kit I can buy for my FJ80. Its a pull knob mounted in the dash with the cable attached to the throttle pedal. Looks easy to build.

Your alternator will put out peak power around 1800 rpm. "If" you plan on a new alternator, look at the 6 phase. I'm running a 250 amp with about 150 amp at 700 rpm and peak about 1200 rpm.

Almost all of the modern alternators are 6 phase. Price shop for them. The aftermarket builders started offering them about 10-15 years ago and got over $1000 for them. I want to say mine was under $300. I would link it but, I cant remember who I got it from.

ok sounds good, I was looking at the amps required for pulling and just noticed that it can exceed 300 for a full line and though I won't often not be in my seat while winching (or have someone in there to provide throttle input) I just thought about it from a precaution (and not having to monitor the RPM's ='sone lest thing to concentrate on while winching)

I am definitely getting a bigger alternator anyways, and have looked at a few, but had a question about
this one is the one that is hands down the favorite and most recommened... but notice it's turn on is at a higher RPM, and all measured at 14v


Vs this one I just found, that is half the price, turns on at half the RPM's and is measured at 12v... but is less over all Ams even at matching RPM's

 

[smritte]

Alternator RPM is 3-4 times higher then engine. The design you want will say 6 phase and or hairpin. I tried to find a quick link you a power chart but was unsuccessful. The nice thing is, it looks like the pricing has dropped considerably. I was looking at a 250 amp mechman and it stated 150 amp at engine idle.
Look for the key words or message them.

A little bit about alternator technology. There's two diffrent windings. One makes power early (low rpm) but doesn't make high power. The second makes high power but requires more rpm. Little to nothing at idle. This second one is how the old school high output alternators worked. I've seen 350 amp rated alternators but you need 4000 engine rpm to get it. At 800 rpm you get nothing.

The hairpin design windings put more wire in the case. More wire means more power.
The 6 Phase is actually two diffrent sets of windings done in the low rpm power style.
Using the hairpin windings allows it to use the lower rpm power and have two sets giving twice the power at a low rpm.
Basically a 6 Phase hairpin is two low rpm alternators in one case

 

[Ebbs]

Goo

Alternator RPM is 3-4 times higher then engine. The design you want will say 6 phase and or hairpin. I tried to find a quick link you a power chart but was unsuccessful. The nice thing is, it looks like the pricing has dropped considerably. I was looking at a 250 amp mechman and it stated 150 amp at engine idle.
Look for the key words or message them.

A little bit about alternator technology. There's two diffrent windings. One makes power early (low rpm) but doesn't make high power. The second makes high power but requires more rpm. Little to nothing at idle. This second one is how the old school high output alternators worked. I've seen 350 amp rated alternators but you need 4000 engine rpm to get it. At 800 rpm you get nothing.

The hairpin design windings put more wire in the case. More wire means more power.
The 6 Phase is actually two diffrent sets of windings done in the low rpm power style.
Using the hairpin windings allows it to use the lower rpm power and have two sets giving twice the power at a low rpm.
Basically a 6 Phase hairpin is two low rpm alternators in one case

That's good info I didn't know! Thanks. I'd have figured they'd put engine RPM...

looking both are listed as Hairpin, the 2nd one needs a smaller belt apparently so that probably accounts for the lower RPMs. now to figure out what the Alt RPMs= engine RPM's with their size pully. The first one states OEM belt and 130-140a at engine idle speeds.

here's a link to the actual ones if you're interested
1st. Toyota & Lexus 4.7L V8 2UZFE 270 Amp DC Power Alternator
2nd 2009 Lexus GX470 Base 4.7L V8 285CID Alternator | Tucson Alternator
another interesting thing is the 2nd has option for lifetime warrenty for like $40

 

[smritte]

DC Power needs to drop their prices. Tucson reflects todays pricing.

The shorter belt is because they run a smaller pulley. I'm sure they (DC) run's a smaller pulley but the oem belt probably still works. If their not running a smaller pulley, their power band will be higher then Tucson.

FYI, the parts in both are exactly the same, from the same supplier. The difference will be the cosmetics. Years ago I use to build custom alternators. I no longer have access to the parts otherwise I would be building these for people.

Aside from fluke issues, the only thing that should wear is the brushes. Lifetime warranty means unless a fluke issue happens, your looking at well over 100k miles on that alternator before you have to think on it. When I changed my cruiser alternator, the brushes had about 20% left at 250k miles.

 

[Ebbs]

DC Power needs to drop their prices. Tucson reflects todays pricing.

The shorter belt is because they run a smaller pulley. I'm sure they (DC) run's a smaller pully but the oem belt probably still works. If their not running a smaller pully, their power band will be higher then Tucson.

FYI, the parts in both are exactly the same, from the same supplier. The difference will be the cosmetics. Years ago I use to build custom alternators. I no longer have access to the parts otherwise I would be building these for people.

Aside from fluke issues, the only thing that should wear is the brushes. Lifetime warranty means unless a fluke issue happens, your looking at well over 100k miles on that alternator before you have to think on it. When I changed my cruiser alternator, the brushes had about 20% left at 250k miles.

Thanks! Really appreciate the information!

 

[Ragman]

I have not used it but the AEV programmer has that functionality for my JK.