DIY Camp Shower

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Rokketz

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4" PVC Sched 40, holds a little over 4 gallons, i used washing machine hot /cold valves for water in and water out, tire valve for pressurizing (30-35 PSI is all you need) dont fill the water up completely full so you will have some room to builIMG_9760-shower2.JPGIMG_9761-shower3.JPGIMG_9762-shower1.JPGd air pressure for a longer run without re-pressurizing )
 

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Yep you guessed. It. Had an extra set lying around. Lightweight and fit perfect between factory rails so I said why not!
.

That's awesome they fit so well. I've been toying with ideas for the top of my van to create a platform for both storage and as photography platform. What you've done creates a much more sure-footed area than a lot of racks/platforms.

.
 

Rokketz

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.

That's awesome they fit so well. I've been toying with ideas for the top of my van to create a platform for both storage and as photography platform. What you've done creates a much more sure-footed area than a lot of racks/platforms.

.
and as a side note, i weigh 225, i can get on top and stand on the platform without it flexing or hitting the roof, i was initially worried about that but i tested it out!. I took all the hinges off the ramps and drilled holes through the sides then used 1/4' bolts and nylon lock nuts to secure the three tracks together and then used some channel bolts to mount to the factory rails..it was a very tight fit plus the curvature of the stock rails made it even tighter fit but with a little patience and loosening of the rails it will fit. Good luck man take care
 
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HIALT2D

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I've been playing around with a similar set-up. The problem I'm having is I added a fill spout to the top with a screw-in cap. When I pressurize it, water is forced out of the screw-in cap around the threads. I've tried a couple of different thread tapes, but it still leaks. And, I'm only adding around 10PSI. Looking at your set-up, I think I'll try replacing the screw-in cap, or maybe glue it in with ABS glue and add the hose bib for filling.

The other problem I ran into was using the pipe clamps, as you did. It doesn't seem to take much "off-roading" to cause the tank to shift when full of water. I'm gonna give one of these a try:
3YZN2_AS01.jpgPipe-Support-Grip-1.jpg
 

Scontroneboy

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I've been playing around with a similar set-up. The problem I'm having is I added a fill spout to the top with a screw-in cap. When I pressurize it, water is forced out of the screw-in cap around the threads. I've tried a couple of different thread tapes, but it still leaks. And, I'm only adding around 10PSI. Looking at your set-up, I think I'll try replacing the screw-in cap, or maybe glue it in with ABS glue and add the hose bib for filling.

The other problem I ran into was using the pipe clamps, as you did. It doesn't seem to take much "off-roading" to cause the tank to shift when full of water. I'm gonna give one of these a try:
View attachment 145407View attachment 145408
I had the same issue with the cap, someone told me to put Vaseline on the threads and it helped (not sure what type of cap you have, obviously). For mounting I used a conduit mounting kit for 4" PVC, think it was $30 but worth it since it has a concave cradle that holds the PVC nice and snug. Put a piece of 700c bicycle inner tube over the U bolt and never had a problem with it moving or vibrating. Hope that helps...
 
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Rokketz

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I had the same issue with the cap, someone told me to put Vaseline on the threads and it helped (not sure what type of cap you have, obviously). For mounting I used a conduit mounting kit for 4" PVC, think it was $30 but worth it since it has a concave cradle that holds the PVC nice and snug. Put a piece of 700c bicycle inner tube over the U bolt and never had a problem with it moving or vibrating. Hope that helps...
Yep that was the reason I opted not to go that route. The screw cap top or fill port won’t be air tight unless you either use pipe dope or use Teflon tape or find the kind of fitting with a gasket. For me it wasn’t worth the effort to go that route plus I liked the streamlined look of the way I did it without the fill port section. If I ever need to “clean” mine out I will just gravity feed a solution of bleach and water and let it sit for a day or two and rinse it out a couple times. That was the only downside I could think of the way I built mine.
 
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Rokketz

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I had the same issue with the cap, someone told me to put Vaseline on the threads and it helped (not sure what type of cap you have, obviously). For mounting I used a conduit mounting kit for 4" PVC, think it was $30 but worth it since it has a concave cradle that holds the PVC nice and snug. Put a piece of 700c bicycle inner tube over the U bolt and never had a problem with it moving or vibrating. Hope that helps...
As far as the pipe clamps. Mine is torqued down pretty tight. I don’t plan to do hi speed off road in rough terrain so I don’t anticipate it to slip or dislodge. My original design used the large HVAC zip straps but I quickly replaced those with the stainless clamps. It’s very strong and after three weeks of driving around with it mounted and I have done some off roading too. I haven’t seen any evidence of it moving. 4 gallons weights about 32 lbs. the pipe itself weighs about 20-30 lbs so all together somewhere around 60 lbs. when filled Hope that helps
 

Scontroneboy

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Very cool, mine is just under 5 gal and I mount it on the side of my bed rack so definitely needed the cradle. My fab skills are, let's just say, nonexistent so had to go the retail route, haha! On the bright side, it works well and when hooked up to my compressor is just like home only with a better view...road shower.jpg
 
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Rokketz

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I've been playing around with a similar set-up. The problem I'm having is I added a fill spout to the top with a screw-in cap. When I pressurize it, water is forced out of the screw-in cap around the threads. I've tried a couple of different thread tapes, but it still leaks. And, I'm only adding around 10PSI. Looking at your set-up, I think I'll try replacing the screw-in cap, or maybe glue it in with ABS glue and add the hose bib for filling.

The other problem I ran into was using the pipe clamps, as you did. It doesn't seem to take much "off-roading" to cause the tank to shift when full of water. I'm gonna give one of these a try:
View attachment 145407View attachment 145408
those do look cool, i just dont have anywhere i could mount those on my rig unless i moved the tube to the topside of the roof rack, im reserving that space now for jerry can, jack, mud tracks and maybe a hi-lift. Solar panels are on the other side actually 2/3 of the rack.
 

Rokketz

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lights i installed Sunday...$60 for all 4 on Amazon and they are super bright!!
IMG_9859.jpg
 

Rokketz

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i guess i should post these separate as different DIY projects :-)
 

M Rose

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i guess i should post these separate as different DIY projects :-)
It was nice seeing all your projects all in one place...

I did the roof rack from loading ramps on my Bronco last month. I used the feet that test in the tailgate during loading as mounts for my lights, and I am making my accessory mounts to fit around the legs of my ramps... I think my ramps are a little different than yours though... they are solid tubing welded up to form ladders...

A258F673-9724-4989-9BBB-4E4A2F5D5168.jpeg72DC9FFB-7278-4864-840F-4F4F81473225.jpegD374AB08-D0E0-4E97-A15D-AB18121C0966.jpeg
 

Rokketz

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It was nice seeing all your projects all in one place...

I did the roof rack from loading ramps on my Bronco last month. I used the feet that test in the tailgate during loading as mounts for my lights, and I am making my accessory mounts to fit around the legs of my ramps... I think my ramps are a little different than yours though... they are solid tubing welded up to form ladders...

View attachment 147025View attachment 147026View attachment 147027
Nice! looks good, yes my ramp has the material between the sides with little 1" holes staggered and raised for traction....
 

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none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
4" PVC Sched 40, holds a little over 4 gallons, i used washing machine hot /cold valves for water in and water out, tire valve for pressurizing (30-35 PSI is all you need) dont fill the water up completely full so you will have some room to builView attachment 145375View attachment 145376View attachment 145377d air pressure for a longer run without re-pressurizing )

[/QUOTE
First I've seen with a fill valve. Usually see a removable cap for fill. Won't that be a problem when away from a hydrant ?
 

Rokketz

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you can attach a hose to a water container as a secondary option, and gravity fill from the top valve, i have two 7 gallon water containers that i have put hose bibs on that i use when im not at my home or near a water faucet. to me the open screw cap thing was harder to seal to get water/air tight, there are some caps that have a rubber gasket but i couldnt find any at my local stores ( i didnt look to hard) but this design is simpler, less components to buy and i didnt have to worry about the screw cap leaking air as some others have posted. I spent less $$ and came away with what i thought looks more sleek and functional to the degree that i was looking for. Thats the beauty of DIY, you get to choose things based on what you feel best suits your needs and i learned from some others posts about what worked for them etc. Good luck if you decide to build one and PM me if you need any help at all. take care