I have a 3rd gen toyota 4runner (1998) and I'm looking for lockers I can put in both front and rear differentials, I prefer the electronic lockers so I dont have to take up weight and space for a onboard air source...any recommendations?
Differential lockers
- Thread starter Journee
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If your wanting to go elocker I would go with a factory Toyota elocker....Plenty to be found in the salvage yards...
Outdoor Recreation Network - Off-Highway, Jeep, and 4x4 Fun
Toyota Tech: Installing a Toyota Electric Locker
www.4x4wire.com
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Thank you for sharing that article, after reading it I'm considering air activated lockers, seams like alot of modifications I'm not comfortable doing
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I went with Aussie lockers in the rear of both of my rigs and ARB's in the front. Has been a perfect setup for me.
If you dont feel comfortable with the install and/or need re gearing, Marlin Crawler has complete units for sale.
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Id go for the ARB Air Lockers if finances allowed. I have the ARB air compressor for inflation / deflation purposes.
That's a perfect solution.I went with Aussie lockers in the rear of both of my rigs and ARB's in the front. Has been a perfect setup for me.
If you dont feel comfortable with the install and/or need re gearing, Marlin Crawler has complete units for sale.
I got an email from Eaton and they said that this year they are releasing an e-locker for the 3rd gen toyota 4runners..just another option
Do you have a picture of how you have the onboard air compressor mounted? Just need an idea
Stumpalama
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Selectable lockers like the Harrop/Eaton and ARB are a must for a rig that spends considerable time on road and the weekend wheeler, IMHO. Having true open diffs on the road, in wet and snowy conditions is ideal. Plus your passengers appreciate the absence of lurching and clacking when turning corners. 
Also, be sure to compare the specs on each option, the Harrop/Eaton vs. ARB. The Eaton, apparently, unlocks in reverse for half a rotation. Depending on your needs and wheeling environment, that might not be acceptable.
The Harrop/Eaton is about $2600 a pair and ARBs are about $2200 a pair and, if you time it right, you can get a free compressor in the deal.
Otherwise a decent compressor and 2.5 gallon tank is a couple hundred bucks.
Also, with a compressor, it does double duty: running your lockers and airing up tires on the trail and for the drive home and never runs out of air. You don't need to buy a $300 power tank to air up and hope you don't forget to fill it before you got the trail.
Just some points to consider.
If I'm not mistaken, OEM lockers also require a long spline axle shaft since the locking collar engages along the splines, at least it is this way on Land Cruisers, for sure. This adds cost and also tends to cause the axle and splines to twist, which can cause the splines to bind and, as a result, make removal of a broken shaft a PITA.
Also, be sure to compare the specs on each option, the Harrop/Eaton vs. ARB. The Eaton, apparently, unlocks in reverse for half a rotation. Depending on your needs and wheeling environment, that might not be acceptable.
The Harrop/Eaton is about $2600 a pair and ARBs are about $2200 a pair and, if you time it right, you can get a free compressor in the deal.
Otherwise a decent compressor and 2.5 gallon tank is a couple hundred bucks.
Also, with a compressor, it does double duty: running your lockers and airing up tires on the trail and for the drive home and never runs out of air. You don't need to buy a $300 power tank to air up and hope you don't forget to fill it before you got the trail.
Just some points to consider.
If I'm not mistaken, OEM lockers also require a long spline axle shaft since the locking collar engages along the splines, at least it is this way on Land Cruisers, for sure. This adds cost and also tends to cause the axle and splines to twist, which can cause the splines to bind and, as a result, make removal of a broken shaft a PITA.
Member II
Detroit ftw[emoji23] clank clank BANG [emoji482][emoji482]Selectable lockers like the Harrop/Eaton and ARB are a must for a rig that spends considerable time on road and the weekend wheeler, IMHO. Having true open diffs on the road, in wet and snowy conditions is ideal. Plus your passengers appreciate the absence of lurching and clacking when turning corners.
Also, be sure to compare the specs on each option, the Harrop/Eaton vs. ARB. The Eaton, apparently, unlocks in reverse for half a rotation. Depending on your needs and wheeling environment, that might not be acceptable.
The Harrop/Eaton is about $2600 a pair and ARBs are about $2200 a pair and, if you time it right, you can get a free compressor in the deal.
Otherwise a decent compressor and 2.5 gallon tank is a couple hundred bucks.
Also, with a compressor, it does double duty: running your lockers and airing up tires on the trail and for the drive home and never runs out of air. You don't need to buy a $300 power tank to air up and hope you don't forget to fill it before you got the trail.
Just some points to consider.
If I'm not mistaken, OEM lockers also require a long spline axle shaft since the locking collar engages along the splines, at least it is this way on Land Cruisers, for sure. This adds cost and also tends to cause the axle and splines to twist, which can cause the splines to bind and, as a result, make removal of a broken shaft a PITA.
New Detroits and Yukon Griz's are pretty smooth now. Yukon Griz front and ARB rear is the hot setup right now. But the OP has IFS front suspension, so I'd use a selectable in the front.
I'd go the Marlin Crawler route as well. Two lockers, new gears, and ARB's for $3000 is pretty fair. Just make sure to order with big enough gears. 4.56 , 4.88, etc. Also seems like ARB's are cheaper than the e locker.
I'd go the Marlin Crawler route as well. Two lockers, new gears, and ARB's for $3000 is pretty fair. Just make sure to order with big enough gears. 4.56 , 4.88, etc. Also seems like ARB's are cheaper than the e locker.
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The Detroit Locker and Yukon locker aren't really lockers at all. They are UN-lockers. It'll unlock and allow a wheel to spin faster.
Under compression braking it'll be locked, enter a turn while braking, and it'll allow one tire to go slower. To visualize it, imagine reverse gear, while sliding downhill.
The only pita about the good autolockers, is the play in them. Crawling downhill in 4L, that play can cause you to roll and slam into the driveline abruptly. That really only happens if you have front and rear auto lockers though. Since nobody uses that setup anymore, don't worry about it. As long as a selectable or open diff is in one of the axles, that problem is mitigated completely.
Under compression braking it'll be locked, enter a turn while braking, and it'll allow one tire to go slower. To visualize it, imagine reverse gear, while sliding downhill.
The only pita about the good autolockers, is the play in them. Crawling downhill in 4L, that play can cause you to roll and slam into the driveline abruptly. That really only happens if you have front and rear auto lockers though. Since nobody uses that setup anymore, don't worry about it. As long as a selectable or open diff is in one of the axles, that problem is mitigated completely.
Steward I
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On my list of things I would Iike to do for my rig next is to install a ARB air locker on the front diff.
I am assuming these things are bullet proof and those of you who have installed them are satisfied?
Anything I should consider before trudging down this road?
I am assuming these things are bullet proof and those of you who have installed them are satisfied?
Anything I should consider before trudging down this road?
Off-Road Ranger I
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Look, if the OP is into “overlanding” as I and many others are, a locker up front just isn’t necessary. The only reason there is a front locker in our 80 is because it is stock. I use the rear locker a lot and the front locker very sparingly, usually just to keep the actuator lubed up. IFS and lockers? Play at your own risk. These are just my horribly informed opinions that I’ve garnered from unreliable sources over the past 25 years or so. Whatever you end up with, good luck.
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If your overlanding includes snow, front locker can be quite helpful. As for failures/reliability, I have seen the ARB to be very reliable overall. The only failures I have seen are with the air lines which is a really easy trail fix if you keep an extra section of air line and a couple of air line union fittings. I believe when they fail though it is nearly always due to heat or abrasion, so if you can make sure to route the lines well away from any source of rubbing and away from the exhaust you should be fine.
Front locker is a game changer. Because it makes my truck fully locked. My current 3 wheel peel, does fair enough though. My previous truck was fully locked, and it just about doubled what it could do.
There are no off road tow trucks, where I go. You get stuck, you'll have to build pyramids to get out.
There are no off road tow trucks, where I go. You get stuck, you'll have to build pyramids to get out.
