CTEK or REDARC for dual battery charge control

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JBear223

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Enthusiast III

473
California
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John
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Behrens
I am looking to install a fridge in the bed of my truck, which is covered by a canopy. I was going to do a simple stand alone solar setup with a MPPT controller, solar panel on the roof and the connections for the fridge and other accessories.
However, I recentlly became aware that I can have a typical dual battery setup in this truck, (2019 F150). I did not think it could be done due to the BMS system, but I am wrong.

I am looking at installing the CTEK 250SE/Smartpass 120 combo or the REDARC BCDC1225D. Will still have a 100w solar panel on the roof. The REDARC is half the price and takes up much less space and wiring complications. And from what I have read pretty much does the same stuff as the CTEK.

One major issue I have is my battery choice, the trucks starting battery is an AGM and I currently have a 100ah LifeP04 battery I was planning on installing.

Does anyone here have any knowledge of either of these two setups and if the different batteries present a problem? Id rather not buy an AGM when I already have the lithium in addition to the extra 40lbs or so.

So what does the hive say about my options?
Thanks
 

Jakes2514

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Sutton Heath, Sutton, Woodbridge, IP12 3EQ, United Kingdom
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Jakes
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van der Merwe
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22552

Hi there,

The source battery isnt a problem if your system only draws from it. Its the power source for your Dc-Dc charger that is all. What you need to check is if the system you plan to install has a ‘reverse’ charging function, what I mean is that when the house battery is full some systems start sending power to the source/starter battery to ensure they are topped up. If thats the case it may only be a trickle charge so it doesn’t really matter and wont be a full 20A that its normally capable of providing to the house battery.

I run a Lead Acid in as my starter and a AGM as my house using a Renogy 30A Dc-Dc with MPPT charger and have no issues with the two different battery technologies

Regards
Jakes
 

Lior

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Lior
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Sandberg
I would go with the reduced lithium battery, lithium battery have better discharge profile then AGM battery.
 

Wanderlost

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3,316
Caledonia, Illinois
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8490

We use the Ctek (without the Smartpass) in our FJ, and the Redarc 1225 in our 4Runner. Both perform the same, either would do fine for you.

With a DC-DC charger, having different type batteries makes no difference at all.

One thing to keep in mind, Lithium won't like the heat under the hood. If that's where you're thinking of putting it.



 
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TCBTacoma

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Enthusiast III

646
Colorado
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Tom
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Butt
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30761

@Wanderlost hit the point I was about to mention....part of the battery choice is where it lives. I think that (generally speaking) I like the profile of LiFePO4 more than most, but I'm putting it in the camper (not under the hood).
 

Advocate I

1,515
Denver, CO, USA
First Name
Wade
Last Name
Jackman
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25978

Just installed a Redarc charge controller last week. Was really easy to configure and setup. Works with different battery types no problem.
 

Aumiller_

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Contributor III

201
Corpus Christi, TX, USA
First Name
Austin
Last Name
Aumiller
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Navy
I have a Antigravity LiFePo4 starter battery, relocated to a cargo shelf in the rear of my 4R and a Dakota Lithium 100aH LiFePo4 auxiliary battery mounted to the same shelf. Using a Victron Orion-Tr Smart DC-DC isolated charger to top off the DL from the alternator/ antigravity as well as a separate solar charge controller to charge the DL independently. The Orion is small and can be programed via Bluetooth app to work with whatever configuration you would like. You can set the battery to LiFePO4, or AGM as well as set charge/ bulk/ absorption voltage. You can also customize engine detection voltage and input voltage lock out parameters.