2008 Nissan Xterra pre-purchase inspection

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Gothere

Gothere

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Alabama
I've been searching for the right Xterra to fit my needs and my budget. My fiance has given me the okay to reach out to a seller about a 2008 Xterra, which is 4-5 months before previously planned.

I knew I wanted a 2nd Gen Off-road package, but I couldn't find them really. While searching I found this:

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/d/2008-nissan-xterra-4wd-rare-6/6648990343.html

It's a 2008 Nissan Xterra Off-Road, 6sp Manual, with 101k miles. Has an unspecified lift, and 285/75/16 (as far as I can tell) BFG KO2 tires already installed. The paint looks good, the plastic shows that it sits outside a lot, but the paint does not seem to have already started to oxidize, which indicates some form of sealant or protection on the paint. Engine bay doesn't look overly clean (hiding any problems), but looks in good condition. Besides asking about accident history, maintenance, and major services like timing belt (or chain, I'm not familiar with the 4.0) and water pump, what do I need to ask or look for in the test drive?

I plan on making a 3 hour drive to see it on Sunday, unless the seller makes me feel like I don't want it. I want to go with a check list of things to look for, in case the seller is trying to hide something.

Thanks in advance.
 
Zerobird

Zerobird

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Castle Rock, Colorado
That's a great price as long as the title is good, (not salvage or anything like that) manual trans is a plus! No worries on the cross contamination that the auto trans were prone too in Some of the 05-07. The 4.0 that's in there is a timing chain engine. Might wanna pay attention to the way the engine sounds though , some had timing chain whines from bad guides. They sound like a super charger, the whine sound will change with rpms to it's easy to hear if it happens. My 08 is fine 130k, original owner.

Shawn
 
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Gothere

Gothere

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Great advice! I have this cross posted on ExPo, and no one has mentioned this yet.

I have my fingers crossed that I will get the opportunity to buy this one, because apparently the seller is meeting with someone tonight about it.
 
Zerobird

Zerobird

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Good luck, they are great rigs. Yeah the 2nd gen Xterra * is nothing like the 1st gen. By model year 08 they started to have the kinks worked out. I was a Nissan technician from 2011-2013, I'm currently an Audi technician.... not tootin my horn. Just know what I'm talking about.
 
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Gothere

Gothere

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Alabama
Zerobird said:
Good luck, they are great rigs. Yeah the 2nd gen Xterra * is nothing like the 1st gen. By model year 08 they started to have the kinks worked out. I was a Nissan technician from 2011-2013, I'm currently an Audi technician.... not tootin my horn. Just know what I'm talking about.
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So I got a carfax from the seller, confirmed that is was the right car. Two things concern me, one light concerns, and the second is something I would told myself I would never do.

1. The Xterra was in an accident, but from what I can see, body lines are straight and carfax reports all the damage was corrected. The report said it was unable to drive away from the scene, but that could have been as little as a bent tie rod, punctured tire, or someone else fairly innocuous. It also has a clean title, so damage was not very significant.

2. It was a northern car for most of its life, CT and MA until the last 2-3 years then it was a FL car with the salt of the ocean on it, and as of recently, in GA. I have never had to deal with rust, and I have never intended to deal with it. I feel as if this Xterra is perfect in every way, besides these two issues. My question here is, is there any part of the Xterra that is prone to rust that I should look for when I go see it?
 
Zerobird

Zerobird

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Castle Rock, Colorado
Gothere said:
So I got a carfax from the seller, confirmed that is was the right car. Two things concern me, one light concerns, and the second is something I would told myself I would never do.

1. The Xterra was in an accident, but from what I can see, body lines are straight and carfax reports all the damage was corrected. The report said it was unable to drive away from the scene, but that could have been as little as a bent tie rod, punctured tire, or someone else fairly innocuous. It also has a clean title, so damage was not very significant.

2. It was a northern car for most of its life, CT and MA until the last 2-3 years then it was a FL car with the salt of the ocean on it, and as of recently, in GA. I have never had to deal with rust, and I have never intended to deal with it. I feel as if this Xterra is perfect in every way, besides these two issues. My question here is, is there any part of the Xterra that is prone to rust that I should look for when I go see it?
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I live in Colorado so it isn't a very rusty state, so I haven't really seen very rusty ones to compare it to. (as in body panels and such) pathfinders from the 90s would rust bad behind the front struts. Bolts and things like tie rods are things that rust on all cars easily. My suggestion would be just do a good inspection when you see the car. Get under it with a flashlight. Take a mental note of things, that's where you'll see if anything in engine is leaking, or rear axle, like pinon seal (that's where the drive shaft connects to the rear axle) or axle seals, that will be a leak at the outter end of axle kinda behind the brakes. The rear axle has check valve that can go bad and not release pressure and cause the seals to blow out. That is another reason why guys do the "diff breather" mod and also relocate to higher up for water crossing. My 08 with 130k doesn't leak at all. My pinion seal blew out around 50k and was replaced under warranty, my mother in law also had an 08 (both of are were off road models) her pinion seal blew around 100k its not a major repair if does happen. The reason i bring up the off road model is that the rear axle on this is the M226, a variant of a Dana 44. There i go rambling again....

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Gothere

Gothere

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Zerobird said:
I live in Colorado so it isn't a very rusty state, so I haven't really seen very rusty ones to compare it to. (as in body panels and such) pathfinders from the 90s would rust bad behind the front struts. Bolts and things like tie rods are things that rust on all cars easily. My suggestion would be just do a good inspection when you see the car. Get under it with a flashlight. Take a mental note of things, that's where you'll see if anything in engine is leaking, or rear axle, like pinon seal (that's where the drive shaft connects to the rear axle) or axle seals, that will be a leak at the outter end of axle kinda behind the brakes. The rear axle has check valve that can go bad and not release pressure and cause the seals to blow out. That is another reason why guys do the "diff breather" mod and also relocate to higher up for water crossing. My 08 with 130k doesn't leak at all. My pinion seal blew out around 50k and was replaced under warranty, my mother in law also had an 08 (both of are were off road models) her pinion seal blew around 100k its not a major repair if does happen. The reason i bring up the off road model is that the rear axle on this is the M226, a variant of a Dana 44. There i go rambling again....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using OB Talk mobile app
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Rambling is good. I don't know too much about what to look for when buying one of these. I know they are good and capable off road vehicles for a damn good price.
 
Zerobird

Zerobird

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The off road package gets you the upgraded M226 (D44) axle with rear locker, skids plates, 3.69 gears (manual 6 speed trans) my auto 5 speed gets 3.36. And hill descent assist, not sure if the manual has it, but manual has a feature you can start it without pushing the clutch to start (i can't think of what is called right now)

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Gothere

Gothere

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Alabama
Zerobird said:
The off road package gets you the upgraded M226 (D44) axle with rear locker, skids plates, 3.69 gears (manual 6 speed trans) my auto 5 speed gets 3.36. And hill descent assist, not sure if the manual has it, but manual has a feature you can start it without pushing the clutch to start (i can't think of what is called right now)

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Clutchless Start Feature. Well, I'm pulling the cash today, my plan is to drive out there on Sunday, offer lower than what he's asking (we all know he priced it for some wiggle room) and then drive it home.

Of course that's after a nice inspection, and making sure that I know what I'm buying. Going to bring my battery/alternator tester to see how everything is. Normally that can buy me a $100-$200 off the price, OR I know that I won't be buying new parts for the electrical system. Have a 1300 lumen flashlight that I plan to throughly inspect the underside with, drive it at least 10-15 minutes, park it, then start it up again and check for leaks. Test the transfer case and rear locker, and i think that is it.
 
Zerobird

Zerobird

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Castle Rock, Colorado
No it doesn't, you are trying to line up 2 different gears that rotate independently. So to get them lined up to engage a solenoid to lock them together can take some moving side to side. Also i wouldn't engage the locker on pavement. It's not good for the diff.

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Quicksilver

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Gothere said:
2. It was a northern car for most of its life, CT and MA until the last 2-3 years then it was a FL car with the salt of the ocean on it, and as of recently, in GA. I have never had to deal with rust, and I have never intended to deal with it. I feel as if this Xterra is perfect in every way, besides these two issues. My question here is, is there any part of the Xterra that is prone to rust that I should look for when I go see it?
Click to expand...
I'm a little late to the discussion, but I wanted to chime in on this real quick. My 2011 Xterra was originally a Canada rig. Whoever owned it up there didn't seem to have cleaned the underside often, so it has a LOT of surface rust underneath. Enough that I almost didn't buy it. I had it inspected before I bought it and was told none of what was there would be an issue. Plus, the dealership knocked $3000 off the purchase price, so I took the chance. I'm glad I did. The only thing that's gone bad on me so far is a heat shield that had rusted so badly that what was left fell off about 8 months after I bought it, and that's easily replaceable.
 
Gothere

Gothere

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Alabama
Bought it! I'm not going to do a "build thread" until later, but I did do a planning/what was done to it post on expedition portal in the Nissan forum there. My username is Gohere there (since Gothere was taken).
 
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