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Nice looking rig. Is it going to the Up this fall?

Don’t be to worried about redoing the body mounts. Some simple sheet metal work and rubber mounts and it will be good as new. I tend to like the cj-7 jeep polyurethane puck body mounts for vehicles that mounts aren’t available any more.

Keep in mind V-10 capable speeds and drum brakes. A cool looking build. These guys are a good bet when you get around to looking for tires if you are staying military tread. http://www.stausaonline.com/

Ah the joys of old vehicles. At least consider your self lucky most of the fixes are straight forward and not chasing some electrical gremlin through 4 different fuse boxes and numerous sensors and control modules.

Welcome to the old truck over landing club. :grinning: That beast looks like a promising start to a serious rig.

Welcome, where in central Michigan do you hail from?

Well KOAR tickets and camp site booked. Now I have a set dead line to get the FC done. :sunglasses:

Sounds like a completely reasonable plan. Back to the UP. :grin: I should be ready but will @Tinker have the coal rolling land rover together by then?

A limited slip like a Detroit True Trac is an excellent choice for the front end. Most of the traction benefits of a locker but none of the terrible on road attributes.

Nah if all else fails just run a extra thick guibo coupling like all the BMW's run.

Heat,A/C, Bluetooth for tunes and a rock solid chevy small block,trans, t-cases , power steering with four wheel disks pulling all to a stop. Should cruise at 65 at 2750 rpm. Why not run it to the UP since I plan to take it to Utah anyway.

Ah I didn’t realize you were doing a straight coupling set up.

If I have the Fc-170 (I should) running by then I am game. That is back up where I went to school.

Looking like progress. You could machine the yoke to a square shape and the stub shaft to match. That way the geometry is transmitting the torque and not the round press fit and tig weld. Or save turning the cast yoke and make a flat steel 4 bolt flange and then use a bolt on 1350 yoke...

I do my own. I built it and no way I am trusting someone else to keep it running right. Plus with rockauto.com for parts and a heated barn why waste the money/time/frustration on "mechanics".

The biggest pro to a full size is the existence of an actual frame instead of a unibody that requires extra reinforcement to bolt on a bumper.

Looks like a good plan. When in doubt add more steel.

Well after a bit of research the later Fc's had a larger tunnel for better cooling... So out came the plasma cutter and presto the heater/ac mount became higher up and angled. :sunglasses: Then the tunnel sides commenced, 10 gauge should suffice. Lots of flap wheels will meet their ends...

Yep that is what I was thinking, have it sitting on the top of the frame vs. hanging off the side of the frame. Something like the green mount.